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Old Nov 05, 2012, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Please don't try and update the bootloader any more. If something goes wrong during the process you will have a major problem. The bootloader is not the problem.

Let's try and find out what's going on one step at a time.

I'm assuming you used Windows to update the firmware so we can rule out a possible upper/lower case file name conflict.

When you updated the firmware you mentioned that after about 10 seconds the yellow LED remained on. This is the correct behavior of v0.49 combined with V3 bootloader. At this stage the FW file should have been automatically deleted and the camera should be in standby mode - don't check this yet, don't press any buttons. Assuming the camera is still disconnected from the computer and the yellow LED is still on (it will turn off after 30 seconds), what happens if you press the shutter button? Do you get 3 fast blinks indicating recording has started? If yes, wait a few seconds and then press the shutter button to stop the recording. Now press the power button for about 2 seconds until the camera turns off. Remove the card and use a card reader to look at what's on the card. Is there a DCIM folder in the root folder, and has the firmware file been deleted?

I'm hoping you'll reply "yes"....

[EDIT] You have posted in the meantime. You should never need to press the shutter button for more than a second. However, I admit I don't understand why your camera doesn't record but it can generate a configuration file. If it can generate a config file the firmware is running correctly. All the same, please report back what happens if you do as I posted above. [/EDIT]
Following the directions, no DCIM is created and the firmware is still present on the card. And even if I wait after firmware update, it does not automatically turn off.

Took a video of the behaviour, old cameraphone without focus so not the best quality:
808 V2 FWup (3 min 56 sec)



I wonder if I did receive a preproduction camera....
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
Tie it onto an ordinary balloon with a short length of string. It wouldn't fall fast enough to get any damage and the video would be extended a little bit longer for effect.
That's not a bad idea. The only problem I would worry about is hearing the balloon flopping around in the audio, let alone the squeakiness of while I'm carrying it. I still want the illusion of free fall with just the whoosh of air, keeping it authentic as possible. I'd also worry if somehow the camera got flipped around while falling and you could see the balloon. (post video edits can obviously speed up the film if it falls slower).

Any other ideas, or modifications to this idea?
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 04:25 AM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
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I was thinking a reasonable sized balloon with about 18"- 2ft of string hanging below with the camera taped to that and a couple of guide strings sticky taped up the sides of the ballon to prevent the camera swinging around like a pendulum. I guess it all depends how you are going to edit the clips on the success of anything you do. Naturally it would have to be a calm sort of day or the cam might finish up in a coffee shop across the road.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack this cam discussion thread.
Doug
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 04:48 AM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
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Tom, a question.
In your Poll it showed folk prefer the AVI format over the MOV format.
I think I read somewhere that MOV format produces a smaller file. Is that correct?
Too much for this 64 yo to go looking to try to find that post again.
Thanks
Doug
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Isn't GIMP just a still image editor (i.e. does not work with video files?)? AviDemux (freeware link in post #3) will import the camera native .MOV files and allow all kinds of exposure and color changes. If only a portion of the video has color needing adjustment, you need to create a break at the beginning and end of the section to be changed (two mouse clicks) before applying the changes to just that section. The config tool for the changes shows a preview "before" and "after" split screen window, and a drag bar enables a quick look at all the frames in your selection before finalizing the changes. AviDemux is a free great editing tool for things like this.
Hi Tom,
Sorry for the confusion about Gimp, but I was referring to the correction of STILL IMAGES with regard to "SparkyPauls" panorama shots which did not match up in color saturation. He was talking about not wanting to spend $699 for Photoshop and I was just suggesting Gimp which is free.

All the best..
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't understand what you are doing with VLC, but it sounds like maybe you had the MOV format FW installed previously? The AVI files that this camera produces are NON_STANDARD, and they can't be cut for editing without crashing the video output.
Yes i had mov previously isnt there any way to cut it
to keep 1gig file for 5min good footage isnt efficient
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Neverth View Post
Following the directions, no DCIM is created and the firmware is still present on the card. And even if I wait after firmware update, it does not automatically turn off.

Took a video of the behaviour, old cameraphone without focus so not the best quality:
http://youtu.be/rRwaSxNHMjI


I wonder if I did receive a preproduction camera....
OK, the firmware is working just as it should, so there's no need to upgrade anymore! I have a hunch the lens is not seated correctly. I haven't tried turning on my camera with a dislodged lens myself, but I seem to remember that someone else had a similar problem. On the #11, a steady yellow LED without any reaction was due to a broken wire in the ribbon cable. I assume you haven't swapped the lens assembly, so a broken wire shouldn't be the problem. However, the ribbon cable may have become dislodged if you let the camera fall, had a crash or even in the post. I would almost bet there is some sort of problem with the lens assembly.

If you fiddle with the ribbon cable, you must first disconnect the battery and then very carefully re-seat the ribbon cable in the connector. A few posts back, Rubis posted an excellent close-up video of how to do this and how the ribbon cable should be correctly seated. If you don't have the proper tool like Rubis, you can use a wooden toothpick or similar item, but don't even think about using anything metallic. You don't need to wear any special gloves (I believe Rubis used professional ESD conductive gloves), but it's best to ground yourself before opening the camera by touching a kitchen cold water tap (as long as it or the pipe isn't plastic) or radiator or...

BTW, you never need to press the shutter button for more than second. It should react immediately.

I'm sure you don't have a pre-production camera, but I do, and it works perfectly
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
OK, the firmware is working just as it should, so there's no need to upgrade anymore! I have a hunch the lens is not seated correctly. I haven't tried turning on my camera with a dislodged lens myself, but I seem to remember that someone else had a similar problem. On the #11, a steady yellow LED without any reaction was due to a broken wire in the ribbon cable. I assume you haven't swapped the lens assembly, so a broken wire shouldn't be the problem. However, the ribbon cable may have become dislodged if you let the camera fall, had a crash or even in the post. I would almost bet there is some sort of problem with the lens assembly.

If you fiddle with the ribbon cable, you must first disconnect the battery and then very carefully re-seat the ribbon cable in the connector. A few posts back, Rubis posted an excellent close-up video of how to do this and how the ribbon cable should be correctly seated. If you don't have the proper tool like Rubis, you can use a wooden toothpick or similar item, but don't even think about using anything metallic. You don't need to wear any special gloves (I believe Rubis used professional ESD conductive gloves), but it's best to ground yourself before opening the camera by touching a kitchen cold water tap (as long as it or the pipe isn't plastic) or radiator or...

BTW, you never need to press the shutter button for more than second. It should react immediately.

I'm sure you don't have a pre-production camera, but I do, and it works perfectly
I had *exactly* the same problems recently with my #16 V2 with D lens. I had opened it up to try something with the lens and I must have damaged the ribbon cable while prying the lens of the sticky tape holding it in place.

It took me ages to narrow it down, but when applying pressure to the cable, it worked ok, so I confirmed my diagnosis by swapping in the lens from my other camera. Hey presto! Everything okay.

So, I now have a third #16 with D lens on order plus a new A lens to try out (only had D lenses so far).

So, beware people... those ribbon cables are very fragile. If you're pulling out the lens, pry it loose carefully and very gradually from the sticky tape before you try lifting the circuit board!
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 07:09 AM
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PS. Both my cameras have a strip of insulating tape folded over both sides of the circuit board and behind the lens. The back of the lens is metal and could short out the PCB. This is not on the camera shown in the video posted a couple of days ago.

PPS. Sorry, this was meant to be edited into the message above!
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Last edited by FlyingPanMan; Nov 05, 2012 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Ooops!
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 07:23 AM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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Joined Nov 2010
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For your amusement... this was shot entirely with the new 808HD #16, D-Lens. NICE... I couldn't be more pleased, especially after the lens on my GoPro was destroyed. The new keycam isn't quite GoPro HD Hero quality but it is close enough in end result that it's hard enough to tell. At just $40, while the GoPro lens alone is like $70, I surely can't complain. :-)

PhoenixStar Flying Day 11-4-12: Sharing Airspace With PPGs! (18 min 46 sec)


What a great morning this was. I'd planned to go out there and fly over the construction site and just set it to music, but when I got there I was totally jaw-dropped with the sight of all these people flying powered paragliders there! I swallowed my shyness and asked if they minded if I flew with them, and they were not only positively GREAT about the idea, many of them seemed pretty impressed. Not as impressed as I was - dude, these people snap those PPGs around like... boss... totally, totally boss. What a great bunch of people and what a fun time that was. :-)

No, no music. No narration this time also because in the heat of the moment I completely forgot to start the voice recorder. It's a bit long; sorry about that but remember you can use the slider freely.

Enjoy!

Rick NR417
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 07:53 AM
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wow 700 pages .

without scouring thru all these pages can you guys answer a few questions for me .
1-this is a great keycam?
2- you can do fpv with this?
3-can you do fpv with goggles with this?and if so a link?

i seen a video where a guy set this up for fpv but not with goggles . looks like this might blow away my hk wingcam??

thanks guys
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 08:08 AM
Stop me before I build again!
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Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
wow 700 pages .

without scouring thru all these pages can you guys answer a few questions for me .
1-this is a great keycam?
2- you can do fpv with this?
3-can you do fpv with goggles with this?and if so a link?

i seen a video where a guy set this up for fpv but not with goggles . looks like this might blow away my hk wingcam??

thanks guys
1) Yes. For the price and weight it's a no brainer to keep in a bag of tricks.
2) Maybe, depends on a lot of things. Unlike many dedicated FPV solutions it's lacking the per-pixel lighting so bright sky will often mean the ground detail is lost. It can also take several frames to respond to changes in overall lighting.
3) Sure, why not, but output is letterboxed, so the picture will be smaller than a native 4:3 FPV camera.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 08:11 AM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
wow 700 pages .

without scouring thru all these pages can you guys answer a few questions for me .
1-this is a great keycam?
2- you can do fpv with this?
3-can you do fpv with goggles with this?and if so a link?

i seen a video where a guy set this up for fpv but not with goggles . looks like this might blow away my hk wingcam??

thanks guys
1) It's great in a lot of ways. It's good quality HD video, it's tiny, it's lightweight, and still it can pull off over 20 minutes of recording on a single charge. Run external power to it and time becomes irrelevant, limited only to the size of the memory card you use.

2) Yes, the #16 can do that. I prefer not to for one important reason - the video size is letterboxed compared to the actual video transmitter's output. That means you're losing detail vs. a regular CCTV type camera. Also, the low light performance is rank terrible. My FPV camera will keep going long past dusk, while the output of the keycam has been BLACK for a while. Bright lights are workable with it, but that's about all. If you don't mind those two issues, then it's not a bad FPV cam at all, just so long as you remember that the internal battery goes down faster when sending video out. The only way I'd use one of these as an FPV cam is if I had it wired to the flight power systems to keep it alive.

3) It's standard video-out like a VCR. The output goes to the video transmitter, like any camera, so yes the same rules apply as to any common FPV setup.

Rick NR417
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post

1. Provide a more sensitive motion threshhold and just live with the possibility the first clip is wasted.

2. Provide a brief time delay (e.g. several seconds) AFTER the camera powers up with Motion detection toggle ON, to allow the user to place the camera in it's desired rest position before the motion detection action activates.

Option 2 seems a good choice to me, with a delay of maybe 5 secs. built in before motion activation starts. What do others who will actually use the function think?
Point 2 seams the best, but it realy doesnt bother me anyway. In the other hand i may have MD activated but no pc to change it in a situation that i requier imadiate recording, leaving as is would be good to. I dont know. I think the only thing is missing on this camera to be perfect is remote control
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 08:32 AM
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thanks guys ........

so the battery only lasts 20 minutes during video?
if so thats a downfall , my hk wingcam will run a long time .but this keychain is drawing me in !
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