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Old Nov 03, 2012, 11:42 AM
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rcflyers's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Redruth
Joined Nov 2006
109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by VideoKing View Post
That's just the auto exposure working in the camera.
Get used to it, don't forget this is a £25 HD camera, you have to expect some compromises.

You can fix the exposure changes in post editing if you really need to but I only reserve that for amazing videos, of which I don't take many.
Thanks for the reply, what program can I fix the exposure changes with please?
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 11:57 AM
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pintail1's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Norfk
Joined Mar 2012
43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by falconerider View Post
Hi pintail,

1. Connect your camera to the PC.
2. Open the GUI.
3. Choose "Tools".
4. At the bottom of this window you see the Bootloader version.

Ciao
Falconerider
Hi, you mean to the left of the exit button, I did see that but as it was grayed out & it was telling me where it was on my computer, I was not sure that it meant that it was installed on the 808.

many trhanks.

pintail.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 12:38 PM
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VideoKing's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Dec 2010
767 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyers View Post
Thanks for the reply, what program can I fix the exposure changes with please?
There are many bits of software you can use for editing.

Adobe Premiere Elements
Corel VideoStudio
Sony Vegas
Adobe Premiere Pro
etc etc etc.

Plus other stuff which is free.
Just find something you like the price of and make sure it can do exposure correction, (most do but not all). Its then just a case of learning the software and trying out the different effects and filters for exposure.

Some of my best stuff has come from Adobe Premiere elements when using the auto colour and exposure filters, but I'm sure most software does the same job.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,468 Posts
Did a panoramic flight yesterday with the #16, V2, D lens.. and a couple others.
A #16 V1 with the B lens and a #16 V1 with the Kodak .67 lens.
Per the images. 1->3.
Found a problem with the auto-exposure. The camera when looking to the left of the flight will change the exposure based on the ground colors, and doesn't return to "normal" when the plane gets back to level level flight.
The images taken before the camera was aimed to the left in level flight maintain the same exposure, and can be nicely stitched. Image 4
Image 5 is the result of the exposure change.
Don't have any quick ideas as to how to work around that.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 01:16 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,704 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
Did a panoramic flight yesterday with the #16, V2, D lens.. and a couple others.
A #16 V1 with the B lens and a #16 V1 with the Kodak .67 lens.
Per the images. 1->3.
Found a problem with the auto-exposure. The camera when looking to the left of the flight will change the exposure based on the ground colors, and doesn't return to "normal" when the plane gets back to level level flight.
The images taken before the camera was aimed to the left in level flight maintain the same exposure, and can be nicely stitched. Image 4
Image 5 is the result of the exposure change.
Don't have any quick ideas as to how to work around that.
Sparky, are you using the Auto-White balance setting? If so, try using the "Fluorescent" setting. You may need to also bump the color to a "warmer" setting to compensate for the Fluorescent hue. This setting eliminates the "blue-to-gray" sky issue with the auto white balance, so it MAY also help with this problem?
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 01:52 PM
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VideoKing's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Dec 2010
767 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
Did a panoramic flight yesterday with the #16, V2, D lens.. and a couple others.
A #16 V1 with the B lens and a #16 V1 with the Kodak .67 lens.
Per the images. 1->3.
Found a problem with the auto-exposure. The camera when looking to the left of the flight will change the exposure based on the ground colors, and doesn't return to "normal" when the plane gets back to level level flight.
The images taken before the camera was aimed to the left in level flight maintain the same exposure, and can be nicely stitched. Image 4
Image 5 is the result of the exposure change.
Don't have any quick ideas as to how to work around that.
Try one of the fixed exposure settings perhaps, or learn Photoshop...
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 03:13 PM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,468 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by VideoKing View Post
Try one of the fixed exposure settings perhaps, or learn Photoshop...
.
Lemme run down to the store and get the $699.00 accessory for the $40 camera.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 03:17 PM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
13,468 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Sparky, are you using the Auto-White balance setting? If so, try using the "Fluorescent" setting. You may need to also bump the color to a "warmer" setting to compensate for the Fluorescent hue. This setting eliminates the "blue-to-gray" sky issue with the auto white balance, so it MAY also help with this problem?
.
Here's the settings that were used for that flight..
I've had the flight-ground exposure situation sometimes fix itself, with the other V2 camera... which is currently lacking the imager due to something squirelly causing it to go unfocused, and then no useable image at all.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 04:04 PM
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Joined Nov 2010
2,540 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubis View Post
hello

My vidéo for change the lens in good condition

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANTrAWKEN2I

Bye Bye
That's what I call a good video! Close up so you can exactly see the details and precautionary notes about static.

Especially now the winter months are approaching, cautions for static electricity are very important - unless you live in a very muggy area
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 04:23 PM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by pintail1 View Post
Hi, you mean to the left of the exit button, I did see that but as it was grayed out & it was telling me where it was on my computer, I was not sure that it meant that it was installed on the 808.

many trhanks.

pintail.
The "Tools" button is on the right of the "Help" button, just below the large drive selection window. If you wish to update the Firmware or Bootloader you should first select the camera drive (in the large window) before clicking the Tools button.

FWIW, I have just posted the Italian and Spanish translations on the #16 download page.

Language resources for the GUI are now available in French, German, Italian, Romanian and Spanish. Thank you very much therau2000, Holger, CalvinH, Livio IK1HSL and Mtz for your much appreciated contribution. I'm sure your translations will be useful to a lot of people.

You may install all the language resources if you wish and you can dynamically switch languages at any time while the program is running.

Languages resources may have a slightly different layout to the English resource to account for different text lengths in the different languages.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 04:32 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,427 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
That's what I call a good video! Close up so you can exactly see the details and precautionary notes about static.

Especially now the winter months are approaching, cautions for static electricity are very important - unless you live in a very muggy area
Very clear video by Rubis. I saw at the end the battery was disconnected, maybe that should be mentioned at the start, or in the YouTube description.

I always disconnect the battery, but have been tempted to skip that step.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 05:08 PM
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pintail1's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Norfk
Joined Mar 2012
43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
The "Tools" button is on the right of the "Help" button, just below the large drive selection window. If you wish to update the Firmware or Bootloader you should first select the camera drive (in the large window) before clicking the Tools button.
See screen shot
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 06:02 PM
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!
nrg2go's Avatar
Australia, NT, Katherine
Joined Apr 2009
1,190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
That's what I call a good video! Close up so you can exactly see the details and precautionary notes about static.

Especially now the winter months are approaching, cautions for static electricity are very important - unless you live in a very muggy area
Using latex style gloves is false anti-static security! In fact it probably makes it worse as it will build up quite a charge on the surface of the glove and it isn't thick enough to prevent arc over to the skin. You are better off touching the case of the USB connector to discharge/ equalize yourself to the device and then go for it. Otherwise great video.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 07:52 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,704 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrg2go View Post
Using latex style gloves is false anti-static security! In fact it probably makes it worse as it will build up quite a charge on the surface of the glove and it isn't thick enough to prevent arc over to the skin. You are better off touching the case of the USB connector to discharge/ equalize yourself to the device and then go for it. Otherwise great video.
Better to ground your self on a grounded water pipe before handling. I've bricked several of these key-chain style cameras handling with bare hands while focusing lenses, so I'd opt for rubber gloves and careful handling over barehanded approach. I normally carefully wrap the entire circuit board with tape now before handing for focusing the lens in lieu of barehanded (or gloves), and have had no further mishaps. But changing the ribbon cable prevents some of that.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 07:59 PM
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!
nrg2go's Avatar
Australia, NT, Katherine
Joined Apr 2009
1,190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Better to ground your self on a grounded water pipe before handling. I've bricked several of these key-chain style cameras handling with bare hands while focusing lenses, so I'd opt for rubber gloves and careful handling over barehanded approach. I normally carefully wrap the entire circuit board with tape now before handing for focusing the lens in lieu of barehanded (or gloves), and have had no further mishaps. But changing the ribbon cable prevents some of that.
I think you miss the point that the gloves will produce more static than bare hands but obviously the best approach is to ground both yourself and the job at all times. Don't use gloves, you will make it worse than bare hands that have at least been grounded before working.
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