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Old Oct 15, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Gulf Breeze, FL
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Originally Posted by ezeeetm View Post
I think if he'd just pipe his posts through google translate things would be way better for everyone (him included!).
I think Fishy is an American from Brooklyn, NY, so Google Translate doesn't apply. I initially thought you were being sarcastic

As I said, I enjoy his videos, but have to skip his "prose".

Gene K
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 10:42 AM
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mouvement detector

hey ,the new option of mouvement detector take pictures or video ??
thx
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gggunit View Post
hey ,the new option of mouvement detector take pictures or video ??
thx
Video
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:26 AM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by nagyger View Post
Sorry for being off topic. Where could this question be "in-topic"? I promise I will ask it there.
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Originally Posted by ezeeetm View Post
solar charging would depend on a lot of environmental factors, but is very do-able with a small solar panel and a boost converter. although the current iteration does not include aux solar (my goal is to keep cost/complexity/weight to a minimum)...future versions will have several small solar cells on the outside.

regarding the heater, I'm using a nichrome mesh and a PID microcontroller to keep things at temp. The capsule is made of r13 foam and lined with reflective mylar. at 100K feet there is only 1% atmosphere, so it requires some radiative heating (no air for conductive/convective heating). Nichrome is the same stuff found in toasters and hair dryers, but in my design it will only put out a few watts...just enough to keep things at about 50-60F.
This is an interesting DIY project. There's DIY forum right here on this RC Groups web site specifically created for projects like this where more people might have a use for it. You can post your details here.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:29 AM
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United States, AR
Joined Mar 2009
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I've just updated my #16 to the new #49 FW and used Nr16setup Vers. 3.0.2.3 to configure it to shoot time lapse at 5 seconds. It aint doin' it. What am I doing wrong? Nr16setup says its configured for time lapse but the video clips I get are in normal 30 fps time.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Randbo39 View Post
I've just updated my #16 to the new #49 FW and used Nr16setup Vers. 3.0.2.3 to configure it to shoot time lapse at 5 seconds. It aint doin' it. What am I doing wrong?
If it's not doing it, what is it doing? Any LED activity? Are you holding down the power button for about 2 sec. until the yellow LED turns on, then pressing the power button again to put it into PHOTO mode (Red LED turns on), and finally pressing the shutter button to begin the photo capture sequence?
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Randbo39 View Post
I've just updated my #16 to the new #49 FW and used Nr16setup Vers. 3.0.2.3 to configure it to shoot time lapse at 5 seconds. It aint doin' it. What am I doing wrong? Nr16setup says its configured for time lapse but the video clips I get are in normal 30 fps time.
Time lapse is for creating a bunch of photos, not video. After having shot these photos, you have to manually make a video from them with (for example) VirtualDub.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If it's not doing it, what is it doing? Any LED activity? Are you holding down the power button for about 2 sec. until the yellow LED turns on, then pressing the power button again to put it into PHOTO mode (Red LED turns on), and finally pressing the shutter button to begin the photo capture sequence?
Yea, that's it. I'm not putting it into photo mode. Thanks.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:00 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2006
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Hi Tom,
do you have an idea of when the AVI version ot the .4# firmware will be live?
Really not an issue since I am using Mp4Cam2AVI (#16 v2 camera).

Also, the sensor appears to have rotated so that even though the camera is level (sitting on a flat surface) the image appears rotated. Have you seen this issue before and is there an easy way to open the case and rotate the sensor?

Finally, what does it take to make a video out cable or is easy to find out already built?


Thank you for your help,

Stefano
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
This is an interesting DIY project. There's DIY forum right here on this RC Groups web site specifically created for projects like this where more people might have a use for it. You can post your details here.
I feel so bad for you guys having to manage all this in a single linear thread. It would be great to see a standalone forum dedicated to the 808 #16 and future cams, that way you could do subforums for firmware, DIY projects, etc, FPV with the video out, etc.

The camera, and the quality of attention you and Iso give it, really deserves its own dedicated forum.

For example, I'm probably not going to post about my project in the DIY section of an RC flying forum, since my project is neither RC nor flying. The discussion kind of got lumped in here because the common thread is: the camera.

That said, I am so appreciative of what you and Iso and others do...I will not reply to any more questions about my project, nor post any other details relevant to it...except maybe a video link of the actual flight. Very sorry.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:25 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Comments (in green) inserted in your post below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefanoc2 View Post
Hi Tom,
do you have an idea of when the AVI version ot the .4# firmware will be live?

Really not an issue since I am using Mp4Cam2AVI (#16 v2 camera).
I don't know, but previously I was told that the .AVI version would not be done until the final tweaks to the new color toggles are finalized in the MOV version. I believe now that the new 0.49FW has been released, they will be working on the color function finalization.

Also, the sensor appears to have rotated so that even though the camera is level (sitting on a flat surface) the image appears rotated. Have you seen this issue before and is there an easy way to open the case and rotate the sensor?
The case is easily opened by removing two screws near the aft end and carefully pushing forward while lifting the aft end 1-2 mm. There's photos in the developers manual (see link in the FAQs), and Fishycomics has posted a video showing this (you can do a thread search on his name with a key word or two to find it). The lens shouldn't be far out of level, though, given the small clearances in the case, but if it's not held firmly by the material they normally use (double-sided foam tape) it could get slightly canted.

Finally, what does it take to make a video out cable or is easy to find out already built?
If you bought your camera from one of the verified eBay sellers in post #1, there are normally two video out cables that come with the camera... one for with a standard RCA plug for connecting to a composite video monitor and one with a standard servo plug for connecting to FPV video transmitters. Maybe the developer you bought from has listed the camera for sale without the cables? Check your order... maybe you bought the cables and they were not included? If you didn't buy the cables with the v2 camera, you can buy them separately from your vendor. You can also make one if you are handy with soldering and can get a a standard FIVE pin mini USB plug with all FIVE pins in the plug. The video out signal is on pin 4 (normally not connected to anything), and if you need to supply power into the camera also, the normal +5V and ground are on pins 5 and 1, respectively.


Thank you for your help,

Stefano
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:55 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezeeetm View Post
I feel so bad for you guys having to manage all this in a single linear thread. It would be great to see a standalone forum dedicated to the 808 #16 and future cams, that way you could do subforums for firmware, DIY projects, etc, FPV with the video out, etc.

The camera, and the quality of attention you and Iso give it, really deserves its own dedicated forum.
If this web site were a Forum dedicated to cameras, like this one, something like that might be possible, but not here on a web site dedicated to the radio control model hobby (which is my only interest and reason for starting the thread). When the #16 camera reaches it's full maturity (we're very close now), I'll bag out of the constant monitoing of this thread, as I have with the #11 camera and #1080 cameras, and move on to whatever the next new mini-cam generation brings if it fits this hobby use.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
327 Posts
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Originally Posted by Randbo39 View Post
Yea, that's it. I'm not putting it into photo mode. Thanks.
I just loaded v49 and tested time lapse too. As said, turn on, switch to photo mode then press shutter. The red light flashes every time it takes a shot. Press 'off ' to stop the time lapse.

My next step is to see how long it will shoot time lapse with my 650 mA battery?

I had no idea how it would work, but I'm dead chuffed (that's English for pleased) to find that the video function still remains as usual! Brilliant.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:18 PM
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Czech Republic, Olomouc
Joined Sep 2010
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My recent recorded videos. See settings used in the attached sreenshot...
Exposure: Normal
White Balance: Fluorescent
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: High
Color Options: Normal

Chasing Fun Cub - Trailer (0 min 45 sec)


Chasing Fun Cub (4 min 54 sec)
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:34 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Ulrik_A View Post
I would like to have some kind of protection cap over the Lens D so i don't damage it when transporting it, does something like that exist ?
Here's another similar possibility for something that can be adapted to protect the D lens (pic attached). This is just a "standard" (here in the U.S.) rubber grommet for holes in sheet metal to keep wire that passes through from being cut by the metal edges. I bought it at the local hardware store (ACE hardware, a large nationwide chain here)

The size PERFECTLY fit my D lens O.D. It slips on with just a tiny bit of friction... not enough to put stress on the lens, but enough to hold it in place. Also when it's seated against the camera case, it provides some lateral support for the lens barrel, which on mine was just loose in the case. I put a couple dabs of silicone adhesive between the CMOS module and case on the inside as well to keep the lens centered on the case hole, and will probably do the same on the outside between the grommet and case (silicone adhesive can easily be sliced with a hobby knife if needed for access).

<EDIT> Also, the thickness of the grommet extends just slightly in front of the front lens element which is vulnerable because it protrudes slightly in front of the lens ring and can be easily scratched. The grommet thickness makes it possible to cover the lens with with something rigid and not contact the lens element. I used the idea posted after this by Mtz for using an ear bud head phone foam cover to make a removeable cover for the front. I found an old head set in my junk drawer with foam ear bud covers that fit my grommet PERFECTLY! I cut a circular piece from an old credit card the same diameter as the grommet and inserted it inside the foam cover to make a rigid impact-resistant front for the cover. The elastic band on the foam cover fits nicely in the groove in the grommet to hold it securely in place. Pics added below to show this. <EDIT>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Oct 15, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
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