Originally Posted by flahut59

Hi,
just one question:
Why can't we choose Motion Detection and Time Lapse Photo ?
I can choose one OR the other.
Thanks!

The two modes will be fighting each other for turning on and off the photo capture. One wants to do it based on motion detection, and the other based on a time delay sequence. Both cannot function simultaneously without more sophisticated coding. There may be insufficient camera memory to do more than what you have available, or the developer may have decided it's not worth the effort to develop this duplex capability. I'd think the motion detection would mainly be used in some kind of surveilance application or sequence where it's not possible to capture images with a hand held camera, like some wildlife nature scenes. Either way, shooting intermittant photo might miss the key scene you want, so just shooting video triggered by motion detection is a better solution for most.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I'm sure is you measure the voltage you'll find it to be about 4.8V (under load). Most common AAs today are 1.2V although I suppose the old 1.5V do still exist. It's been years since I've seen a 1.5V AA battery, but I don't go measuring the voltage all the time

I guess it's all about chemistry...

Yes it is all about the chemistry.. Zinc/carbon and Alkaline cells are 1.5 V and Nicd and Nimh cells are 1.2 V. And yes you can still buy Zinc/carbon and Alkaline cells..

Hiya All,

First posting here because I just bought two 808#16's V2 with D Lenses and think they are t'riffic!

I'm in the UK and have been using one in my motorcycle helmet with a power pack while riding (see my YouTube channel in my username). I know there are still problems with these units and know about the blue-grey shift. I've just come across something that you may be able to duplicate. I have the Windows "Classic" desktop colour scheme on my computer monitor and I was messing with the camera shooting the screen, which was predominantly blue desktop.

When replaying, the scene surrounding the monitor screen went all orange and took ages to recover. It was in flourescent (modern energy saving bulb) light but the awb setting was auto, contrast low, saturation higher, colour normal, exposure dark. I have the latest firmware and software installed and was able to replicate the problem on my other camera.

Haven't got any photos unfortunately, but I thought the info might throw some "light" onto the problem. In any case, perhaps shooting plain background monitor screens of various colours may be of help in diagnosing the colour shifts.

Cheers, Paul.

Originally Posted by FlyingPanMan

Hiya All,

First posting here because I just bought two 808#16's V2 with D Lenses and think they are t'riffic!

I'm in the UK and have been using one in my motorcycle helmet with a power pack while riding (see my YouTube channel in my username). I know there are still problems with these units and know about the blue-grey shift. I've just come across something that you may be able to duplicate. I have the Windows "Classic" desktop colour scheme on my computer monitor and I was messing with the camera shooting the screen, which was predominantly blue desktop.

When replaying, the scene surrounding the monitor screen went all orange and took ages to recover. It was in flourescent (modern energy saving bulb) light but the awb setting was auto, contrast low, saturation higher, colour normal, exposure dark. I have the latest firmware and software installed and was able to replicate the problem on my other camera.

Haven't got any photos unfortunately, but I thought the info might throw some "light" onto the problem. In any case, perhaps shooting plain background monitor screens of various colours may be of help in diagnosing the colour shifts.

Cheers, Paul.

The color shift cause is pretty well established, Paul. It's the camera's auto white balance sensing essentially nothing but one color (e.g. blue) and forcing the image to go to a neutral white balance (i.e. shades of gray) with the appropriate additive color(s). In the case of pure blue, yellow is the additive color needed to make gray. It may seem illogical, but to get yellow on our monitor display, it requires combining red and green pixels together, with no blue! If the blue is not pure blue, then the additive colors needed to make it look gray could be more red than green, creating an orange hue to the scene on your screen outside the monitor display. I've demonstrated the gray shift using a pure green screen as well.

One solution is to have a fixed white balance setting, such as the "Daylight" setting (but maybe calling it "Sunny" to go with the "Cloudy" setting) that locks the color balance to look like a "good" auto WB setting (if one could be agreed upon by a majority of users). I think we may get to that point when final tweaking of the color toggles is tackled by the developer. But then, if shooting during a day that has both sunny and cloudy periods, the color balance may actually be worse when the lighting changed to cloudy with the Sunny setting selected than it would have using the Auto WB setting.

Auto WB does a pretty good job, and another solution is to always try to keep the scene with multiple images, colors, contrast, etc. in it (e.g. don't shoot a pure blue sky... keep a bit of ground in the scene). This is not a perfect solution either since you can't see what is being recorded. But you can just trim out any unwanted color-shift portions, or even correct those sequences via post-processing by adding the proper additive color(s) manually with a capable editor if none of these double-edged solutions work for you.

Flew this today, flipped the plane over. The boat had #16 cam, with PFD and sandwich wrap. It got a little foggy inside the wrap, can't understand how. The other shots are with #11 with HK Wing lens. It is protected with poly but with nothing in front of the lens. Overall, I'm happy I had enough water shielding to protect both cams

RC Float Plane Rescue (3 min 24 sec)

Victapolit.

Outstanding. at a moment I thought they were real planes and a boat? Hope all works out with the cams. Not sure how you waterproof them but would a tic tacs containers do, the jumbo ones

knowing the 5.00 flashlight be to heavy.

again great job, and outstanding.

now since this is about aeriel, guess a H2O filter be out of the question, Lol?

Originally Posted by Kahn_2

Well, I don't know if this would be helpful for you, but, as I'm trying to quit smoking, I'm "vapeing" electronic cigarettes and...there is one type of plastic cartridge which is sold with a silicon cap - as you can see it here: http://ecigmodshop.com.au/index.php?...&productId=283 - that perfectly fits the D lens
That "eGo-T" cartridge costs only few cents, so try to find an e-cig shop near you and... done!

Thanks but shipping to Sweden is $25
So no use , thanks anyway

Maybe someone close by sells, I'll have to check

Originally Posted by Ulrik_A

I would like to have some kind of protection cap over the Lens D so i don't damage it when transporting it, does something like that exist ?

I had some "Skiffy" plastic screw caps that fitted perfect. There are a lot of different sizes so you have to have some luck to find a good one.

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/s...71-505371.html

These caps normaly work in a way that you put a plastic ring under de screw-head, and the cap snaps over it. (see picture on link above)

Beware that also in my case my lens was not the well glued, because of using the cap I got the lens twisted and out of focus. I had to re-glue the lens after re-focusing and use a soft casing now to protect the lens instead.

knowing you said a cap, and here is a keyfob protector.



How you go about it, you can be creative wit hte cover.

Also if this is a route baby sock, better yet lens pouch.

This is what i'm using. Holds my 2 808 #16's

It's just a regular flash-card holder, but works very well.

Another short clip with the D-lens version, sitting on the tail of my Graupner Electro J+

NEXT - Electro Junior Plus (1 min 47 sec)

If blocked use vimeo:

Next - Electro Junior Plus (1 min 46 sec)

question on motion detection. if a fully charged cam is used, how long will it last? 40 mins as before or longer? is it considered as ON and working even though it is not recording?

Originally Posted by Ulrik_A

Thanks but shipping to Sweden is $25

You mean, from that site? Oh, now I see that it's in Australia, but it was just an example (I chose it only for the relevant photo) - you should find in Sweden as well

Originally Posted by Justapoke

Another short clip with the D-lens version, sitting on the tail of my Graupner Electro J+

moy video
Mike

I'm really liking the new power button operation (FW 0.49) - I'm still finding it a little difficult to remember to press it for longer but I'm sure it's going to reduce the number of 1GB inside of pocket/bag recordings and flat batteries I get.
This little cam really is up there at the top when I think of the other things I've spent $120 on... (I have 3 cameras 2 x v1 and 1 x v2 good job well done and thanks all responsible! ).