Nr16setup.exe - compliments to Isoprop for such an outstanding piece of software and also to the others involved in making this camera better!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I much prefer the Lens A over the lens B for the reason you gave... hot spot and vignetting exposure and color shift. There is really only about 7-8 deg. FOV difference between the two, not nearly enough difference to put up with the downside to me. But that's just me! YMMV.

Me too!
I'm happy thatI bought lens A. No vignetting, no center spot.
I would like a wider AOV, but not at the price of vignetting.
Does lens B really make color shift? Another reason not to buy it.
Ciao
Falconerider

Nice weather in Sweden Malmö today, taking my Robin M1 (Segway style) with 808 #16 for a drive :P












photo upload

Will upload vids later

Originally Posted by falconerider

Me too!
I'm happy thatI bought lens A. No vignetting, no center spot.
I would like a wider AOV, but not at the price of vignetting.
Does lens B really make color shift? Another reason not to buy it.
Ciao
Falconerider

Maybe my choice of words was misleading. The darkening of the colors in the area of vignetting also gives them a slightly different hue as well. There is no overall color shift from the lens. The center hot spot and darker edges just appear to have slightly different color due to the different exposure levels.

Originally Posted by falconerider

Me too!
I'm happy thatI bought lens A. No vignetting, no center spot.
I would like a wider AOV, but not at the price of vignetting.
Does lens B really make color shift? Another reason not to buy it.
Ciao
Falconerider

B lens

Here's a video from this morning. I also dislike the vignetting, I'll swap the lens for a D soon. This one is also focussed way too close, about 12 inches, see at about 30sec in the video

However this test was mostly to see the stability of the 0.41 beta with Fluorescent. I would say much more stable, so if you need to change tint in editor, it can work. Also no fade to gray

#16 B lens early morning (3 min 11 sec)

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Like victapilot, Bill Bergman and others have posted, these are excellent examples and exactly what the developer is looking for. I'm sure he's most grateful and I'm sure we'll all profit from your hard work in a future firmware version.

Okay, I'll have a go at it again. Instead of debating what true-colors are, I'm labeling the Canon picture as the "GOAL" with a wide range of colors in view.
Canon 20202 20203 20204 20252 20253 20254 21201 21202 24202 24203 24243
and the#11 which isn't right either.
Exposure Value=[ 2 ]; 2: 0EV
White Balance=[ 0 ]; 0:Auto, 1: Daylight, 4:Fluorescent
Contrast=[ 2 ]; 2:Normal
Color Effect=[ 0 ]; 0:Standard, 4:Cool, 5:Warm
Saturation=[ 2 ]; 1:-1, 2:Normal, 3:+1, 4:+2

I can't find a setting that achieves that goal.
Florescent is too yellow, and Warm does not bring out the green. Any other combinations I could try before the leaves fall?

I have sent the original photo JPG(s) with meta-data to Peter to forward to the developer.
Stewart

Seahorse, I guess the Canon was set to auto? The fluorescent setting results will depend on the time of day, shade etc. Reminds me of kodachrome, which said correct colors were 2 hours after sunrise and 2 hours before sunset, if I remember correctly.

Originally Posted by victapilot

...
The fluorescent setting results will depend on the time of day, shade etc. Reminds me of kodachrome, which said correct colors were 2 hours after sunrise and 2 hours before sunset, if I remember correctly.

Exactly! For people to think a $40 CMOS camera can record with their perfect color rendition in any light is VERY wishful think (and impossible, to boot).

The only way to achieve one's personal optimal results is to use post-processing with a capable editor.

Originally Posted by seahorse41

Okay, I'll have a go at it again. Instead of debating what true-colors are, I'm labeling the Canon picture as the "GOAL" with a wide range of colors in view.

Great idea to compare settings!

I can't find a setting that achieves that goal.
Florescent is too yellow yes, sir, and Warm does not bring out the green another yes. Any other combinations I could try before the leaves fall?

That's exactly what I mean: Too much brown/yellow, less green. The canon goal gets it!

As Tom says: Maybe we expect too much from a $40 CMOS. But maybe the developer (three cheers for Peter!) can tweak the firmware to improve colors. He's the wizard of 808.

And, Isoprop, you are a wizard too: with your phantastic GUI it is possible to get all these test photos in a short time! Thanks!

Ciao
Falconerider

Originally Posted by falconerider

That's exactly what I mean: Too much brown/yellow, less green. The canon goal gets it!

As Tom says: Maybe we expect too much from a $40 CMOS. But maybe the developer (three cheers for Peter!) can tweak the firmware to improve colors. He's the wizard of 808.

And, Isoprop, you are a wizard too: with your phantastic GUI it is possible to get all these test photos in a short time! Thanks!

Ciao
Falconerider

The colors toggles will be tweaked by the developer as more feedback is received, and it may be possible to more closely mimic the Canon colors in the lighting you showed. But under different lighting conditions, all bets are off, which is what I was getting at. There's just too much difference in how various CMOS imagers react to different lighting conditions to expect any more than a one-off match.

Quite honestly, there were several sample pictures shown that look good to my eye, even though not identical to the Canon sample.

Originally Posted by seahorse41

Okay, I'll have a go at it again. Instead of debating what true-colors are, I'm labeling the Canon picture as the "GOAL" with a wide range of colors in view.
Canon 20202 20252 20253 20254 21202 24202 24203 24243
and the#11 which isn't right either.
Exposure Value=[ 2 ]; 2: 0EV
White Balance=[ 0 ]; 0:Auto, 1: Daylight, 4:Fluorescent
Contrast=[ 2 ]; 2:Normal
Color Effect=[ 0 ]; 0:Standard, 4:Cool, 5:Warm
Saturation=[ 2 ]; 1:-1, 2:Normal, 3:+1, 4:+2

I can't find a setting that achieves that goal.
Florescent is too yellow, and Warm does not bring out the green. Any other combinations I could try before the leaves fall?

I have sent the original photo JPG(s) with meta-data to Peter to forward to the developer.
Stewart

My current preferred setting is 20204 (but also try 20203).

To my eye, the difference between your Canon goal and the standard 20202 is just saturation, not warmth.

It's all very subjective, and I know some don't like it, but for now I'm very pleased with the highest saturation setting.

Note: original A lens (yet to experiment with my D lens camera which only arrived a few days ago).

I'm trying out my FPV Tx on my newly arrived #16. When I plug the USB cable with GND and Vid-Out into my Tx's GND and Vid-In the correct OSD & camera image comes up but the image is frozen (OSD & cam). If I unplug then everything is fine showing the OSD screen (no cam obviously). The frozen image is not always synced with the frame as you can see in the image below. (pic 1)

The #16 is powered by it's internal battery and the VTx by a 12V supply, the second power plug on the USB cable is not used. If I plug the #16 directly into the screen I'm using to view it works fine so it's not that the #16 needs 5V through the second plug (pic 2).

Any ideas why? Cancel, got it to work

Also is there any way not to letterbox the video out so severely, especially the sides? (pic 2) Must be losing 20% of the screen real estate.
Pic 1:

Pic 2:

Originally Posted by pardus

Also is there any way not to letterbox the video out so severely, especially the sides? (pic 2) Must be losing 20% of the screen real estate.

Tom has stated that he does not know how to tweak image settings on video out.

BTW, ODS says PAL, isn't this NTSC output on the cam?

Originally Posted by brontide

Tom has stated that he does not know how to tweak image settings on video out.

BTW, ODS says PAL, isn't this NTSC output on the cam?

Thanks.
I have managed to now get the correct live view out to work. Not sure about the PAL / NTSC bit, think my FPV cam and Tx/Rx are PAL, however it all seems to work fine now though except for the letterboxing, but if that can't be changed I'm sure I can live with it.

Originally Posted by pardus

Thanks.
I have managed to now get the correct live view out to work. Not sure about the PAL / NTSC bit, think my FPV cam and Tx/Rx are PAL, however it all seems to work fine now though except for the letterboxing, but if that can't be changed I'm sure I can live with it.

Thanks for asking this, I wasn't aware that it would live feed, and record at the same time... just tried it and hoowa there it is. Will try it out on my fpv rig now.