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Old Sep 19, 2012, 04:23 AM
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The blue sky during am hour sun front is not blue. It is whitish when turned to sun behind it is baby blue. Each day each time frame varies with Suns and

With video show yellow hue yes this i append when came is placed shooting a down and and the brought to a regular scene and corrects to natural fcolors

The camera adjusts differently and ISO settings auto is working harder

ISO setting is deffently something you all want to minipate you be amazed with what you can do. But Ev setting just raises light or lowers. ISo may create grail if used incorrectly. Yep camera has it let's have it in the GUI

Fw 41 is latest no firmware 36 still is and is the latest and is shipped with the latest orders. So if you are expecting the latest, 36 is in cams

If you find an issue remember to always make sure you start fresh. Micro card reformatted. By 808 that will clear an issue

Any cam in he format only records average 50 minutes this camera indexes to be improved to that level. 40 minute under general use and correct temps will get you
30-40 minutes and forcing a few 15 second clips

Do not try to force extra clips after cam is depleted as it is not good to drain lipos.

Enjoy
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If you are going to power the camera with a 1S lipo, do it straight into the internal battery plug. Just remember to unplug the battery from the camera when not in use for long periods of time (it will draw a small amount of power even when turned off). You be charging with an external dedicated lipo charger any way, and your aircraft will have the LVC covered (it will not fly!). The camera will draw about 300 mA while recording, so you need to factor that into your planning for the battery size. This will drop the battery voltage under load, too, so you will not be able to fly and power the camera at the same throttle setting that you would with the camera powered by it's own internal cell. A higher throttle point will be needed and flight time will diminish.
I cant connect the lipo to the battery plug because I burn something and the camera doesn't power on. It works only with +5v from USB.

Is there any way to bypass the chargin circuit?
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 06:40 AM
Grrr :-)
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anyone have any info on this little critter ? I just got it but can't find much info on it not sure if there is a thread here on it.

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Old Sep 19, 2012, 07:17 AM
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there were at least 2 people using this in the micro quad area. iirc its considered lightest toy cam when stripped down. im waiting for prices to drop on ebay.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 07:25 AM
Grrr :-)
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Stop waiting its $24 shipped very poor to non existent low light performance though what it got looked clear little tricky to Getty it to record video more later
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 07:45 AM
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the question is does it have any advantage over the $7 keycams. and is it REALLY lighter out of the shell? i dont mind paying a couple bucks more to shave off some grams but 3x seems too much.

im really nervous about blowing $40 on a #16 but looks like the only way to get fpv. just spoiled by the cheapies i guess.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by not103 View Post
I cant connect the lipo to the battery plug because I burn something and the camera doesn't power on. It works only with +5v from USB.

Is there any way to bypass the charging circuit?
Yes, but you can't use it apparently. Going directly to the battery plug OR the solder pads on the circuit board where it's connected will by pass the charging circuitry, but you then need no more than single cell lipo battery voltage (4.2V).
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nerys View Post
Stop waiting its $24 shipped very poor to non existent low light performance though what it got looked clear little tricky to Getty it to record video more later
Please start a new thread on it. I don't want this thread to diverge off the #16.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by demologik View Post
Isoprop, Thanks. Tom, Thanks. Is there a Paypal donation link for you guys? You have seriously just made this camera even more useful and an even better bargain for guys like me.. Ive been using this camera on my helmet like a GoPro to record motorcycle riding footage through twisties with my buds. With fw 0.41beta and lens D, this camera has become even more useful.

I have a quick question though regarding battery life.. Is there any other known brand of lipo battery with a higher capacity that I could swap out to increase the recording time, without using an external source? I really want to be able to record 1.5 to 2 hrs of footage off of one single charge..

Thanks again fellas for your hard work on this camera.
There is no other battery with higher capacity that will fit in the case that I've found. It would take a large case, similar to the old #11 "Jumbo case", which has a battery with twice the capacity. But if that were offered as an option, I'd want it to also have a larger, more capable CMOS imager, i.e. larger pixel array and lens with 720p (60fps) ability.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sgbfly View Post
...
I have a couple of questions:

Does any of the image options in fw 0.41 negate the blue to grey sky bug? I was intending to experiment but thought I'd ask first. (Tom, in your side by side comparison vids I was willing you to point the cameras up at that big blue sky you have!).
Yes, I've tested it, and unfortunately, no, it appears this still creeps in when nothing but blue sky (or blue sky with some gray clouds) occupies the frame for more than a second or two. But if there is even a tiny bit of ground detail in the scene, the shift doesn't happen. So the wider angle D lens has less chance of triggering it with most uses. Interestingly, I tested the "daylight" setting, and it gives the entire scene a yellow hue. I was hoping this setting would correct the blue-to-gray sky issue, but the yellow hue makes the blue sky look gray ALL the time, not just when panning to nothing but sky.

Secondly, more of a suggestion. How about when it's time for #16 v3 could the charging current by upped to similar to a #11? This is much more useful for field charging and does not seem to adversely effect the life cycle of the lipos.
The maximum charging current was higher initially but was reduced a bit in one of the circuit board tweaks in order give the battery a little more life span. These camera batteries are not higher C-rated cells like flight lipos, and don't like to be charged at even 1C current levels apparently. If the case were 2-3 mm thicker, it would be possible to get a high C-rated cell in it and get much faster charging time. But the battery would be heavier (with no added capacity) and cost a bit more as well.

Thanks Again,

Simon
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Yes, but you can't use it apparently. Going directly to the battery plug OR the solder pads on the circuit board where it's connected will by pass the charging circuitry, but you then need no more than single cell lipo battery voltage (4.2V).
Sorry but.. how I can bypass the charging circuit if I connect to the battery plug or solder pads where the plug is connected?????????

The charging circuit must be after the plug!
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:54 AM
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Sorry but.. how I can bypass the charging circuit if I connect to the battery plug or solder pads where the plug is connected?????????

The charging circuit must be after the plug!
I think we are talking about two different plugs. The charging circuit is after the mini USB plug, since it has 5 V input and also needs to be regulated down to proper charging voltage for the lipo. I'm talking about the small white plastic battery plug inside the case, which is already down stream from the charging circuit. If the charging circuit is bad, that would not prevent the lipo from supplying power to the circuit board at the battery connection plug/pads.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Ok, one step back.

Due a reverse polarity I burn something around the battery plug (the withe one), I'm pretty sure because with the battery connected the camera doesn't power on but without it and by the +5v from USB It works well.

Is there any pad I can solder after the charging circuit to power the camera that's not the white battery plug?? Or some pad on the board I can use for it?
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by not103 View Post
Ok, one step back.

Due a reverse polarity I burn something around the battery plug (the withe one), I'm pretty sure because with the battery connected the camera doesn't power on but without it and by the +5v from USB It works well.

Is there any pad I can solder after the charging circuit to power the camera that's not the white battery plug?? Or some pad on the board I can use for it?
I don't know if there is another connection point for the battery. It may be possible, it may not be. I would expect the VCC to pass thru a (zener) diode and/or resistor or regulator before it powers the main circuitry. You have most probably also blown parts of this circuitry so the only way to find a solution would be a painful circuit tracing detective work or measuring the voltage at different points and comparing the values to a working camera. This is not an easy solution and could easily lead to "shorting" the good camera. If there would be a solution it would be simple to implement, but up to now no one has found such a solution. I'm sure an electronics guru could find a cure, but it would take some time. It would most probably be easier to replace the defective components - if you can identify them and find replacements.

I'm sorry I can't give you a better reply, but without a reverse-voltage defective camera on hand it is almost impossible to give you an answer. I am also not an electronics guru!
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Well thanks for the support, me too I'm not a electronig gugu

Maybe Tom could help me..
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