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Old Aug 06, 2012, 02:14 AM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by xs.energy View Post
Hi All,

First time poster. Have been visited by the "read-only SanDisk card" gremlin twice in one week.

Firmware: Mov 0.27

Cards:
  1. SanDisk Ultra 32GB (class 6)
  2. SanDisk 16GB (Class 'H', which seller said was 6)
Tried the MiniTool Partition Wizard fix, and reformatting in a number of devices - no luck Both cards were in loop recording and full when the (ext) battery died. Now both are full of 5min mov which cannot be deleted. I know, I know: I was warned

Can anyone (Tom?) give me a previous example of what they've told Sandisk to get a replacement please?
I just went to the Sandisk web site, sent an email to the support warranty link, and they told me it's a "mechanical defect" (huh?) and the card would be replaced if I could confirm it was a genuine Sandisk card. I did this by taking a CLEAR closeup picture of the serial number that is etched into the card case (it's hard to see with the naked eye, but with a sharp close up picture that is zoomed in a bit, it shows up well if the light reflecting off the card surface is at certain angles. They emailed me a return UPS label for returning the card, and promptly sent me a replacement.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 02:17 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Agent Smith View Post
Hey i'm new to the forums

I recently bought the 808 #16 and a PNY 32GB Class 10 from ebay thinking it would work out the box, was I wrong as it records less than a minute. Its a legit card as its from a reputable seller.

Only upon searching and coming across the known compatibility list (thx Isoprop) did I realize it was the card. I can see this card is hit and miss but I would like to know if these cards are being reported to the developer and if they are actively trying finding a solution.
The issue is not just with the card, because they work OK in some devices and not others.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 02:40 AM
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Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
I just went to the Sandisk web site, sent an email to the support warranty link, and they told me it's a "mechanical defect" (huh?) and the card would be replaced if I could confirm it was a genuine Sandisk card. I did this by taking a CLEAR closeup picture of the serial number that is etched into the card case (it's hard to see with the naked eye, but with a sharp close up picture that is zoomed in a bit, it shows up well if the light reflecting off the card surface is at certain angles. They emailed me a return UPS label for returning the card, and promptly sent me a replacement.
Thanks Tom, much appreciated.

Also, I'm not sure I've interpreted advice on cards correctly. This page has a list of cards to avoid, and a list of cards which may work (mostly class 6&10). On the same page there is the general advice that says stick with class 4 to be safe, but I'm sure I've read the advice that says class 6 or higher prevents skipped frames.

Can you please set a newbie straight on which cards best "tick the boxes"? Links are fine, and I apologize in advance if I've missed that info.

If it doesn't already exist, how can we best collate which cards have worked well for people?
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by xs.energy View Post
Thanks Tom, much appreciated.

Also, I'm not sure I've interpreted advice on cards correctly. This page has a list of cards to avoid, and a list of cards which may work (mostly class 6&10). On the same page there is the general advice that says stick with class 4 to be safe, but I'm sure I've read the advice that says class 6 or higher prevents skipped frames.

Can you please set a newbie straight on which cards best "tick the boxes"? Links are fine, and I apologize in advance if I've missed that info.

If it doesn't already exist, how can we best collate which cards have worked well for people?
It is not worth buying any cards with a class rating above 4.
Class 4 cards are easily fast enough for these cameras and will not have more dropped frames than class 10! (0 in good lighting).

You can even use good quality Class 2 cards (e.g. Sandisk) without any dropped frames.

It is a myth that higher class-rated cards are better with this camera. Exactly the contrary is true. Class 4 are perfect for these cameras, don't go higher!
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Agent Smith View Post
Hey i'm new to the forums

I recently bought the 808 #16 and a PNY 32GB Class 10 from ebay thinking it would work out the box, was I wrong as it records less than a minute. Its a legit card as its from a reputable seller.

Only upon searching and coming across the known compatibility list (thx Isoprop) did I realize it was the card. I can see this card is hit and miss but I would like to know if these cards are being reported to the developer and if they are actively trying finding a solution.
The developer is perfectly aware of the card compatibility issues but he has no possibility to correct the issue. He also has samples of the problematic cards.

The problem lies within the libraries (SDK) provided by the DSP (CPU) chip manufacturer. There is no hope the issue will be solved until the chip manufacturer corrects the bug in the libraries.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 03:26 AM
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Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
It is not worth buying any cards with a class rating above 4.
Class 4 cards are easily fast enough for these cameras and will not have more dropped frames than class 10! (0 in good lighting).

You can even use good quality Class 2 cards (e.g. Sandisk) without any dropped frames.

It is a myth that higher class-rated cards are better with this camera. Exactly the contrary is true. Class 4 are perfect for these cameras, don't go higher!
When I order the camera from the suppliers I get the one WITH the 8G Kingston card. More than good enough and I'm sure I'd have to try real hard to get the card cheaper. I figure, why re-invent the wheel, if they sell it with this card it WILL work. I guess if you want larger capacities then you should check the naughty or nice list.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
It is not worth buying any cards with a class rating above 4.
Class 4 cards are easily fast enough for these cameras and will not have more dropped frames than class 10! (0 in good lighting).

You can even use good quality Class 2 cards (e.g. Sandisk) without any dropped frames.

It is a myth that higher class-rated cards are better with this camera. Exactly the contrary is true. Class 4 are perfect for these cameras, don't go higher!
Isoprop, Tom and all the gang: Legend...Ary. Thanks guys, this is what I've read between the lines and it's great to have confirmed.

If this is the general consensus is it worth putting these exact words in Tom's post re-problematic cards? Could save a lot of people time, frustration and $ to know that class 4 cards not only avoid the bugs, but are considered the ideal choice for these cameras.

Thanks again guys - going to shop with confidence now!
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 04:33 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Kent
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Originally Posted by NakedRobot View Post
Hi,
(this is a cross post from here. I apologize if that is rude.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=821 )

I want to combine the footage from multiple 808 cameras.

This means primarily that I want to minimize any risk of dropped frames. In fact, I want to avoid having ANY dropped frames.

Which camera will be most suitable for this - the #11? #16? #18? Jumbo? Also, which type of micro SD card would be the best bet?

Thanks a million!
If you use a good card (Class 4 preferably) you wont get any "dropped frames" during a recording. I don't fully understand the multiple camera bit of your question. If you wish to edit between two cameras, that is not a problem either with a good video editor. I do forward/back facing videos from yachts and aircraft and have no problems editing it all together as do many others on this forum.

Adobe Premiere Elements, Sony Vegas HD Movie Studio or Corel Video Studio all do a good job with the raw MOV footage so you have plenty to editors to choose from.

Regards
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by xs.energy View Post
Isoprop, Tom and all the gang: Legend...Ary. Thanks guys, this is what I've read between the lines and it's great to have confirmed.

If this is the general consensus is it worth putting these exact words in Tom's post re-problematic cards? Could save a lot of people time, frustration and $ to know that class 4 cards not only avoid the bugs, but are considered the ideal choice for these cameras.

Thanks again guys - going to shop with confidence now!
I have added similar wording to the list of problematic cards. Since Tom is in the midst of a 2500 mile house move I don't know if or when he'll have time to modify his original posting.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 06:08 AM
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Sunny (mostly) SC, home of the Joe Nall
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
It is not worth buying any cards with a class rating above 4.
Class 4 cards are easily fast enough for these cameras and will not have more dropped frames than class 10! (0 in good lighting).

You can even use good quality Class 2 cards (e.g. Sandisk) without any dropped frames.

It is a myth that higher class-rated cards are better with this camera. Exactly the contrary is true. Class 4 are perfect for these cameras, don't go higher!
The sellers should change the description on eBay, which says compatible with cards up to 32gb, and to use cards class 4 or above.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Did you press the reset button? If so and same result, try completely removing power from the camera by opening the case and disconnecting the battery. Refer to the developer's instruction manual (linked in post #3) for pictures and details for doing this. You may need to loosen the three screws holding the circuit board to the case to allow the battery plug to clear the edge of the case. Leave the battery disconnected for a couple of minutes, then reconnect it and turn itback on to re-boot the camera.

Good luck!

p.s. Maybe after doing this you can (and should) also update the FW.
I've tried that. Camera is off the case.

I've tried also the firmware update, as i wrote on my post, without sucess.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by paraver View Post
Hi to all.

First, sorry if it's a repost, but i've read almost all pages on this thread an i couldn't solve my problem.

My camera was working fine until i used it last time as a webcam. I've disconected from usb and later on when i turned on i get stuck on solid yellow light.

I cannot record, or do nothing. Neither recognizes on the pc. Usb is dead. Nothing, neither on web camera or mass storage. Does not apperar on hardware devices.

I've tryed to update firmware to the latest 0.36 of #4 post and i cannot update also. Rapid yellow for 1 or 2 secons and then light off for a secons and a very light red light rapidly and still nothing.

I've tryed to format card, use different cards, nothing.
Can somebody help me?

Kind regards

Quote:
Originally Posted by paraver View Post
I've tried that. Camera is off the case.

I've tried also the firmware update, as i wrote on my post, without sucess.
I've included your original post since it is already a day or two old.

First of all, it is not normal that the red LED is on during a firmware update. I have never seen this condition in all the testing I've done since the camera was sold.

However, the red LED could indicate a low battery condition......

And a low battery condition could be because you USB cable or plug is damaged......

As a starter, you should definitely try and get your hands on one or more USB cables that you know work. When connected to the camera (camera off), the green LED should be on, or at least it should show some sign of life within about 2 minutes after connecting. If it doesn't, leave the camera on for half a minute, turn it off, and try again.

It is imperative that the battery is charged before attempting the firmware update.

If possible, use an old card for the firmware update file. The older the better!
Press the power button very briefly (max. 500ms = half a second) and watch the LED. The yellow LED should flash or remain on for about 7 seconds after which it should turn off and the red LED should very quickly flash indicating the end of the process. Whatever you do, DO NOT PRESS any buttons for 10 seconds after the yellow LED starts to flash.

Remove the card and use a card reader to format the card. Replace the card and see if the camera now works.

[EDIT] I do take it you have a genuine #16 purchased from one of the two recommended developers in post #2 [/EDIT]

[EDIT2] Ensure the CMOS ribbon cable is correctly inserted. On the #11 I remember having a constant yellow LED when the ribbon cable was defective. The #16 is a completely different design, so this may not apply. It's worth verifying though.[/EDIT2]
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for your fast answer.

I want to correct something from my original port. It's not the red led, it's the yellow that blinks on the firmware. I was so mad with it that i didn't noticed my error.

Camera was working fine and i was making the m12 lens adapter module. Everything fine here. I connected it to pc as webcam to focus the lens and after i disconected didn't worked anymore.

I do not see any faults or defects on the lens flat cable. I've removed it and inserted it many times to make sure it was ok.

I'm an laptop technician so small flat cables are in my line of work

I hope you or someone can help me finding out the problem. It's a waste throwing a perfect camera like this.

Kind regards,
P

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I've included your original post since it is already a day or two old.

First of all, it is not normal that the red LED is on during a firmware update. I have never seen this condition in all the testing I've done since the camera was sold.

However, the red LED could indicate a low battery condition......

And a low battery condition could be because you USB cable or plug is damaged......

As a starter, you should definitely try and get your hands on one or more USB cables that you know work. When connected to the camera (camera off), the green LED should be on, or at least it should show some sign of life within about 2 minutes after connecting. If it doesn't, leave the camera on for half a minute, turn it off, and try again.

It is imperative that the battery is charged before attempting the firmware update.

If possible, use an old card for the firmware update file. The older the better!
Press the power button very briefly (max. 500ms = half a second) and watch the LED. The yellow LED should flash or remain on for about 7 seconds after which it should turn off and the red LED should very quickly flash indicating the end of the process. Whatever you do, DO NOT PRESS any buttons for 10 seconds after the yellow LED starts to flash.

Remove the card and use a card reader to format the card. Replace the card and see if the camera now works.

[EDIT] I do take it you have a genuine #16 purchased from one of the two recommended developers in post #2 [/EDIT]

[EDIT2] Ensure the CMOS ribbon cable is correctly inserted. On the #11 I remember having a constant yellow LED when the ribbon cable was defective. The #16 is a completely different design, so this may not apply. It's worth verifying though.[/EDIT2]
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by paraver View Post
Thanks for your fast answer.

I want to correct something from my original port. It's not the red led, it's the yellow that blinks on the firmware. I was so mad with it that i didn't noticed my error.

Camera was working fine and i was making the m12 lens adapter module. Everything fine here. I connected it to pc as webcam to focus the lens and after i disconected didn't worked anymore.

I do not see any faults or defects on the lens flat cable. I've removed it and inserted it many times to make sure it was ok.

I'm an laptop technician so small flat cables are in my line of work

I hope you or someone can help me finding out the problem. It's a waste throwing a perfect camera like this.

Kind regards,
P
All the same, I doubt if the camera is broken. Those CMOS ribbon cables are extremely fragile and it wouldn't surprise me if one of the wires have cracked. You can order a new lens from the original supplier if that proves to be the case.

If the green LED turns off, indicating the battery is fully charged, then at least you know the battery and USB cable (at least the +V and GND) are OK.

The first step is to install the latest firmware as I described in my previous post. Did that work correctly? Did you see the red LED flash very quickly after about 8 seconds?

Assuming the firmware update worked, what happens when you turn on the camera without the cable attached? Do you get the red LED that changes to yellow after about two seconds?
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 09:41 AM
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Hi, allow me to clarify. I want to run a few cameras simultaneously, and PLAY THEM ALL BACK simultaneously - all at the same time, for the duration of the clips. So I don't want to edit in between them, I want to play them all in their entirety, from the instant I start recording, until i stop. And I want them all to be exactly the same length - I don't want any missing frames, resulting in different videos being different lengths.

I hope that clarifies things


Quote:
Originally Posted by VideoKing View Post
I don't fully understand the multiple camera bit of your question. If you wish to edit between two cameras, that is not a problem either with a good video editor. I do forward/back facing videos from yachts and aircraft and have no problems editing it all together as do many others on this forum.

Regards
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