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Old Jul 22, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Sheesh doesn't TF ever do anything constructive or join in to a conversation or thread. It seems all he wants to do is cause trouble, hate, discontent and ruin threads with meaningless drivel. Please go away we don't want you here. We are trying to have an intelligent conversation. I am going to see if the "Ignore User" Profile option does anything useful or not.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 10:16 AM
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You know I was wondering if the rod clearance for the rod to crankpin is too tight or not. But yeah someone could have substituted the wrong bronze alloy for the rod bushing too. I also see where there is excessive clearance in the groove in the crankcase for the rod too. I hadn't noticed that before Nav Aids mentioned it. It is all good stuff to think about.
thanks everyone,
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 10:36 AM
I bail out, anywhere, anytime
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earlwb.

Quote:
Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
Sheesh doesn't TF ever do anything constructive or join in to a conversation or thread. It seems all he wants to do is cause trouble, hate, discontent and ruin threads with meaningless drivel. Please go away we don't want you here. We are trying to have an intelligent conversation. I am going to see if the "Ignore User" Profile option does anything useful or not.
I did see this too, but what to do? This is simply wrong!!!!Read below!
You not even thinking before writing, do you expect m to check this all?

Quote:
Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
Yes that is correct. 20:1 is 5%, 10:1 is 10%. So it gets interesting now, if increasing the oil content causes the engine to be more lean too. More food for thought.
TF
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 10:51 AM
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I am a happy camper the ignore option actually works.
Thanks RCG.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Mft
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:20 PM
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earlwb, gents.

There is one important fact and that is, a lot of pilots do read with us and so the ignore button is a bad option.
I did write in the past, I do fly my glow engines (MVVS 7,5 and 10 ccm) with 10 % synth. oil in fuel.
(and use some added stuff to monitor and control)

When people show wrong ratio's other readers will mix these also and that'the reason of my posts, not to win a contest!
So,
What's the right ratio for 10 % oil? 10 : 1? Of course not!
What's the right ratio for 5% oil? 20 : 1? Of course not!

Who can show us the right ratio's of quantities?
No, not showing us some kind of sophisticated program on the net, that's not needed!!!! We also do not have a lap top on the bench while playing the wizard.

TF
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Quirk View Post
TF, you are hijacking this thread, this is considered rude.

Please delete your posts, and I will correct my mistake. I will delete this post in 1 hour.

this is so petty, 20:1 is actually 20:1 + 1 => 0.04761904761904761904761904761905%
Don't expect much here , he is already a bit behind on his moderator requested edits . As for any expectations of contribution or anything positive consider this line from a very good cooperative report on the Kazmirski Taurus/Simla:

"Acknowledgement
That was the evolutionary history of the Simla simulator models.
I have to thank the other members of the “gang” for making this project happen at all, for many pictures and information, and for the inspiring discussions.
Above all, Duane Wilson (kingaltair) from the USA, the driving force of the project; but also Evan (pimmnz) from New Zealand and Ray (RFJ) from Ireland , contributing pictures and information from magazines as well as discussing critically and inspiringly; Jeff Petroski (jjpetro) of Home and Hobby Solutions, USA, engineering and kitting the resurrected real Simla; Andy Kunz (AndyKunz), giving some useful advice. Sorry if I forgot anyone, you know who you are.


Cees Wester (Taurus Flyer) from the Netherlands chose not to help but second-guess and reconstruct his own Simla, so there's nothing to thank him for."

http://time.fh-augsburg.de/~erd/Mode...load/Simla.pdf


As for Earl's engine ; Is there any way to obtain the design dimension for the crank pin diameter ans bearing ID ? At this point I have not yet removed the crank/rod but we should be certain of the fit and finish before running this thing.
We may have to consider making a proper rod with some decent material for rod and bearing .

I have the adapter for the Walbro started and if I get time , should be finished this week . Looks like a 4 or 5 mm spacer on the prop hub will be in order.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Gary,
Your example is about the Simla?
I don't share results of time consuming investigation.
People are dissapointed about that, but forget I did go my own way the moment they show up with a kit cutter.

Just as this thread about the NGH 9cc gas engine, a professional case you are trying to solve for a engine manufacturer.
My only point for this thread was, the fuel ratios you all were writing about, were wrong and readers have to know.

An example can be the fuel pressure regulator!!
Just as with the Simla, "chose not to help but second-guess and reconstruct his own", as my profession I design and build my regulators for about 30 years, so I know all details.

Thanks, TF
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Taurus Flyer View Post
There is one important fact and that is, a lot of pilots do read with us and so the ignore button is a bad option.
I did write in the past, I do fly my glow engines (MVVS 7,5 and 10 ccm) with 10 % synth. oil in fuel.
(and use some added stuff to monitor and control)
And yet, when I said that those same pilots read about your 10% oil you didn't feel it was necessary to discuss the type of oil being used, you didn't even know what kind of oil it was. So when you decide take some of your own advise your posts will be interesting to those who know better than to trust some random person off the internet who claims to know everything, yet divulges nothing.

The ignore button is a great option, BTW. It saves one's sanity. While I see that you do have real knowledge, the level one must stoop to have a simple conversation with you is intolerable. I have learned nothing from your posts, because you post no information, only rants about how 10:1 isn't 10% when anyone with 3rd year math knows the difference and can handle the small discrepancy without going into a tirade.

Greg
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 03:45 PM
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Just to change the subject, when I worked for an engine rebuilder in the late 50s/early 60s, we used the floating bearings in the FordV8 239 stock car motors. Worked very well as as the bearing surface speed was slowed right down. Had to take the stock rods and hone them out so they had .002 thou clearance so the bearing would rotate. Looked like an ordinary split bearing without the tabs, and had a bronze with tin plated bearing surface on both inner and outer surfaces. They did wear better than the stock bearings so I wondered why they didn't catch on. Probably cost. Wouldn't work on this, as you would need a steel bushing in the rod for the bronze bushing to run on. Just a bit of lost history.

Gord.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 05:00 PM
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You know the old Veco .35 engines used to use a removeable bronze bushing on the big end of the rod. It was free to rotate and move independently of the rod itself or the crankpin. I haven't read anywhere that it was a problem either. But it went the way of the DoDo bird anyway. I suppose it cost more to make it like that, as you now had two precision tolerances to deal with instead of one.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Cee View Post
As for Earl's engine ; Is there any way to obtain the design dimension for the crank pin diameter ans bearing ID ? At this point I have not yet removed the crank/rod but we should be certain of the fit and finish before running this thing.
We may have to consider making a proper rod with some decent material for rod and bearing .

I have the adapter for the Walbro started and if I get time , should be finished this week . Looks like a 4 or 5 mm spacer on the prop hub will be in order.
That is so cool, Thanks for the information. It won't be a problem using a Fox prop extender on it. Standard 1/4x28 thread size on the crankshaft end. Of course the crank end is pretty long so it may not be a issue just using a spacer either.

That is tricky on the engine specs as it depends on if Michael Chow will disclose it or not. But maybe Micheal is correct in that the rod had a manufacturing defect as it is something of a art and science in fitting the bushing in place and keeping the clearances correct too.

They were disccusing it in this old thread here where the Bottom bushing rod clearance on the crankpin runs from @ .002" ~ .005".
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7162079/printable.htm
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 06:25 PM
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United States, MI, Marysville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurus Flyer View Post
Gary,
Your example is about the Simla?
I don't share results of time consuming investigation.
People are dissapointed about that, but forget I did go my own way the moment they show up with a kit cutter.

Just as this thread about the NGH 9cc gas engine, a professional case you are trying to solve for a engine manufacturer.
My only point for this thread was, the fuel ratios you all were writing about, were wrong and readers have to know.

An example can be the fuel pressure regulator!!
Just as with the Simla, "chose not to help but second-guess and reconstruct his own", as my profession I design and build my regulators for about 30 years, so I know all details.

Thanks, TF
"Your own " ... from what I have seen is really no big deal . The point being made however slipped right over your head .You are a "pattern" guy alright . The pattern is well known. You contribute nothing , only demeaning second guesses and thinly veiled racist type slurs . You insist on proof and offer none.

I doubt they were disappointed that you did not share . More disgusted with your continual nit-picking and chest thumping . They probably realize that you may fear to stand up to scrutiny , only dish it out to others . If your work is as accurate as the criticism you hand out , you probably did history a favor !

I have made no comments regarding oil content , so you mis-spoke in that regard .. I am not trying to solve anything for the manufacturer Cees so zingo ..wrong again !
I am trying to help a friend turn a very unprofessionally designed engine into a workable powerplant . Helping a friend may be a "foreign" concept where you come from but it is a way of life for some of us "over here".
FYI , I have seen some of your professional engineering attempts ..The regulators like you say are as ancient as the Romans .
BTW:
If I needed a regulator it wouldn't be that steel and solder nose weight that you cobbled up !

Fear not..."amateur" efforts have corrected many engineering foul ups .
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 06:36 PM
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United States, MI, Marysville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flypaper 2 View Post
Just to change the subject, when I worked for an engine rebuilder in the late 50s/early 60s, we used the floating bearings in the FordV8 239 stock car motors. Worked very well as as the bearing surface speed was slowed right down. Had to take the stock rods and hone them out so they had .002 thou clearance so the bearing would rotate. Looked like an ordinary split bearing without the tabs, and had a bronze with tin plated bearing surface on both inner and outer surfaces. They did wear better than the stock bearings so I wondered why they didn't catch on. Probably cost. Wouldn't work on this, as you would need a steel bushing in the rod for the bronze bushing to run on. Just a bit of lost history.

Gord.
Gord ... Those are the full floating bearings I mentioned earlier . They were also used in industrial/marine and stationary engines .
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
That is so cool, Thanks for the information. It won't be a problem using a Fox prop extender on it. Standard 1/4x28 thread size on the crankshaft end. Of course the crank end is pretty long so it may not be a issue just using a spacer either.

That is tricky on the engine specs as it depends on if Michael Chow will disclose it or not. But maybe Micheal is correct in that the rod had a manufacturing defect as it is something of a art and science in fitting the bushing in place and keeping the clearances correct too.

They were disccusing it in this old thread here where the Bottom bushing rod clearance on the crankpin runs from @ .002" ~ .005".
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7162079/printable.htm
I too will be looking on with interest regarding the walbro adaptor project. It will add some weight further forward but should be a fun mod. I think that there will be enough on the crank end but we will see.
Now combine this with a new conrod with appropriate oil holes as posted by NavAids and we may have a good little motor
Blocking certain contributor as I don't need this agro when I am having fun !
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