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Old Feb 28, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Pete,

Vey nice work on the Eastbourne, thanks for giving me something to work towards. I'm going to give that swirl finish a try, do you think the Chiribiri would have the straight rows or random? I'll also be using your method for fabricating the dash, this will be my first model with one. I haven't had any luck finding litho plate and all of the foil trays I've found have embossed designs on them. I did find some 36ga (.005") aluminum tooling foil on ebay though, do you think that is thick enough?

I wasn't quite sure what GRP was so I looked it up. After ruling out Gastrin-Releasing Peptide and Glucose-Regulated Protein I went with Glass Reinforced Plastic, thats fiberglass to us Yanks.

Mike
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 09:26 PM
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Mike,
Would the aluminium from a soda can work? (redbull)
I have used it for cowls but I have never tried to add louvers to it but I'm sure it would be possible (with a bit of practise).
Nice work on your build so far!
-Reuben
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Al soda cans can work if you can keep them from cracking around the louvers. Maybe annealing them first?
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben199 View Post
Mike,
Would the aluminium from a soda can work? (redbull)
I have used it for cowls but I have never tried to add louvers to it but I'm sure it would be possible (with a bit of practise).
Nice work on your build so far!
-Reuben
Thanks Reuben, using a soda can has crossed my mind and I haven't ruled it out yet but, as Charlie pointed out, they tear really easy and would require some work to prohibit that. I also need four pieces that are about 8"x8" so I would have to drain some 40's to get pieces that large, if I haven't figured something out by this weekend I may have to upgrade from my usual 16's. Wife sez "Don't you think you've had enough?" and I sez "But honey, I need these cans for the build!" Yeah, that'll work.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 12:37 AM
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Progress continues. The aft fuselage sections have been attached and trussed up, now I can finish sheeting the bottom. The provided precut tail inserts were too short to fit the openings I ended up with so new ones were cut from the leftover 3/32 balsa of the rib sheets.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 01:34 AM
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Additional 3/32 balsa sheeting is added to the bottom of the fuse to form an equipment access opening followed by 1/8" balsa capstrips on the bottom longerons, a sanding bar is used to feather it all in. The two holes are for the wing warping wires
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 03:29 AM
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Mike,
I have no idea what's going on with those 3/32 inserts. The ones on the parts drawing fit the plan perfectly well. I know the cutting process causes a little loss at the pointy end, but it shouldn't be anything like as much as that. Maybe it's to do with how much, or how little, the inner sides are bevelled where they form the tailpost? Or maybe it isn't.

Whatever the cause, it wouldn't really have mattered that much. The lower one simply serves as a gusset and the upper one is really there to fill the space behind the tailplane - and provide more gluing area for the tailplane.
So, what Mike has done is how I intended it to be, but if future builders prefer to use the cut parts, that's fine too.

Pete
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Mike,
I have no idea what's going on with those 3/32 inserts. The ones on the parts drawing fit the plan perfectly well. I know the cutting process causes a little loss at the pointy end, but it shouldn't be anything like as much as that. Maybe it's to do with how much, or how little, the inner sides are bevelled where they form the tailpost? Or maybe it isn't.

Whatever the cause, it wouldn't really have mattered that much. The lower one simply serves as a gusset and the upper one is really there to fill the space behind the tailplane - and provide more gluing area for the tailplane.
So, what Mike has done is how I intended it to be, but if future builders prefer to use the cut parts, that's fine too.

Pete
Pete,
I think your right, if I had bevelled the tailposts more they would have fit. Since I didn't take enough off I'll have to add an additional bit of balsa to extend the tail enough to be tapered into the rudder. I did notice the bottom insert should be 1/8" longer than the top one due to the 10 degree taper of the bottom longeron.

Mike
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:11 AM
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For the equipment hatch I added 1/16" basswood strips along the underside of the 3/32" sheeting around the hatch opening. I then cut a piece of 1/16" balsa the size of the opening, set it in and drilled two holes for magnets through both. To match the 3/32" sheeting I skinned the 1/8" hatch cover with 1/32" balsa crossgrain. Two tabs of basswood atop a 1/16" balsa rail lock in the rear of the cover, an additional strip of balsa was added to the bottom of the cover to prevent warping.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawlspace View Post
For the equipment hatch I added 1/16" basswood strips along the underside of the 3/32" sheeting around the hatch opening. I then cut a piece of 1/16" balsa the size of the opening, set it in and drilled two holes for magnets through both. To match the 3/32" sheeting I skinned the 1/8" hatch cover with 1/32" balsa crossgrain. Two tabs of basswood atop a 1/16" balsa rail lock in the rear of the cover, an additional strip of balsa was added to the bottom of the cover to prevent warping.
Clever hatch Mike. How to you get it open? I don't see the handle.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 12:47 AM
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Clever hatch Mike. How to you get it open? I don't see the handle.
I was going to carve a notch in the magnet side of the hatch opening to fit a coin or something into but I can get it open with a knife blade as is. Since it's only an equipment hatch and i don't plan on getting in there very often I'll just leave it because I think it looks cleaner without one. Now I've got to come up with something for the battery up top, I'll probably do something similar that's incorporated into the scuttle. BTW, got any good leads on some litho plate? It's like looking for polaroid film, nobody uses the stuff anymore.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by crawlspace View Post
I was going to carve a notch in the magnet side of the hatch opening to fit a coin or something into but I can get it open with a knife blade as is. Since it's only an equipment hatch and i don't plan on getting in there very often I'll just leave it because I think it looks cleaner without one. Now I've got to come up with something for the battery up top, I'll probably do something similar that's incorporated into the scuttle. BTW, got any good leads on some litho plate? It's like looking for polaroid film, nobody uses the stuff anymore.
Good point about how infrequently you'll be getting in there, so the pry technique makes sense. Have you looked at Micromark for litho plate? I see stainless here http://www.micromark.com/stainless-s...of-2,8349.html. Found some aluminum here https://www.graphicchemical.com/shop...raphic++Plates. I'd be up for going in on some with you. I'm sure I'll use it eventually.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 07:29 PM
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LITHO-PLAT...item4cff128e92


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-BU...item4cfefc8d08

Now all you need is someone in the UK to post it on.
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 12:21 AM
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Thanks Matt for digging around. The stuff at MicroMark is too narrow for my application but litho plate from GraphicChemical is the stuff I'm looking for, abeit on the pricey side. Based on the stuff Pete found on ebay (why only in the UK?) aluminum tooling foil is only .001" thinner than litho plate so now I'm on the prowl for some of that. I've found some on ebay but by the sheet it isn't cheap either so I've got my eye on a 10' roll of it that hopefully I can win for a decent price. If it gets too steep I may take you up your offer to go in on some.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 01:57 AM
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Pete,
While sanding the fuse I noticed something that I knew was there but hadn't mentioned yet. Some of the light ply pieces came warped but I thought I could force them straight during assembly. I did all right with the ribs since the twin spar arrangement pulls everything into alignment but the fuse sides aren't having it. I have full contact around the cockpit floor so the sides are flat along the bottom but the cockpit opening doesn't have anything spanwise to push/pull them straight so one bows in while the other bows out. Aside from using different material, you could mirror one of the sides on the parts layout then they would be bowing opposite of each other.

Mike
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