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Old Dec 14, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
31 Posts
This is my list of christmas father

Hi,

This my list of christmas father for myQuadricoptère :


2 tube de 12*10 mm sur 1 m => 5 € (après je ferais les trous nécessaire dedans moi-même) avec deux plaque de plexy chez casto (je prévois 40 cm de diamétre) :
http://www.castorama.fr/store/Tube-r...RDm173921.html

4 esc 30 A => 33 $ (les 4) :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...k_30A_ESC.html


1 Carte mère multiwii complete => 73$ :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MWC-MultiW...item20bfc4cb9c

programmeur => 15 $ :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-Basic-B...item336eb09c9a

Moteur : 243w 950kv/ 30a 70g => 46.22$ :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html


Batterie 22ma, 25c, 0,188g =>8$ :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

1 telecommande 6 voies avec le recepteur => 22.99 $ :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_Mode_2_.html

Cable usb pour telecommande => 2.99 €
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...USB_Cable.html

4 hélices 10*4,5" => 8 € :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/4-Pairs-10x4-5-10...item3f0c5f42f9


Charger de batterie => 11.44 $ :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...40v_Input.html


23 $ livraison hobbyking

If that can help us. For me this is the best value for money.

Nico38
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 03:39 PM
Fournier RF4D N1771 Awesome!
jb92563's Avatar
Riverside, CA
Joined Nov 2004
270 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SGsoar View Post
is there any documentation that says you cannot plug all 4 esc's into the crius boards?

i would assume they are the same as the KK boards... where it is ok to use multiple power inputs
In the early development of the MultiWii it was found that hooking all the BEC's together would cause problems.

Even now some folks are finding it necessary to connect a Seperate dedicated BEC.

You can try and let us know if you fry your ESC's, MWC board, RX, servos or get unstable performance.

There is no reason to connect more than one in any case since it only powers the board, RX and servos(Tri or camera gimbal).

Ray
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 08:30 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Nov 2011
949 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiseDuck View Post
I'm not sure how to do this. I've intalled the drivers for the FTDI board and it's alright. But connecting it to the Crius board gives me nothing, I see a red and orange led on it. Shows up in the Device Manager as a "USB Serial Port" with an exclamation mark next to it. Do you need drivers for the Multiwii board too?

I'll test it on my Macbook as well.
My board just arrived, I plugged it into a Windows XP machine, the hardware wizard detected it and went off to the Internet downloaded and installed the correct drivers. Ran the Multiwii java GUI, selected COM3, clicked start and it all worked fine. Just have to figure out what the wall of variables in the GUI should be set to!

It was X-Mode out of the box.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 04:09 AM
MyFlyDream
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The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
414 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atx_Heli View Post
Latest version of guide....

Added a lot of setup info....I think that this is what I really needed two days ago when I began researching everything...to avoid the research...

feel free to correct and comment...if it passes muster, maybe we should move it to the first post by Katch
First, very cool guide i think many will apreciate the effort you took to make one gongrats!

I have a question about it though, maybe more..

In your guide you are talking about "Autoleveling" can you please describe "How/what/do" Autolevel? :S

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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:09 AM
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Joined Feb 2010
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Autolevel means that you control the angle with your stick, so as long as you have the stick off center, the copter will be off horizontal position.

Heading hold means that you control the angular velocity with your stick, so as long as you have the stick off center, the copter will rotate.

Of course Autolevel is easier to fly because you can let the stick snap to the center and the copter will move to horizontal (hover) position and will not just stop rotating.
Bad thing is, that you will need an additional sensor (accelerometer) or an additional calculation (integrating the angular velocity over time) for autoleveling.
As the gyroscopes we use in our copters are drifting quite a bit you'll have better results with an accelerometer.
Another drawback is, that loopings can not be flown with autolevel. As most of the projects limit the angle to about 90° or less you just can not rotate your copter beyond that point.

Happy Amps!
Rob
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Last edited by Rober-t; Dec 15, 2011 at 07:15 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:31 AM
Registered User
Austin, TX
Joined Jan 2009
822 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erazotropa View Post
First, very cool guide i think many will apreciate the effort you took to make one gongrats!

I have a question about it though, maybe more..

In your guide you are talking about "Autoleveling" can you please describe "How/what/do" Autolevel? :S

also, autolevel (or sometimes called stable mode, using the accelerometers), heading hold (using the magnetometer), as well as camera stable and trigger modes are activated by the AUX switches...what AUX switch position does what is setup in the Configuration program...see video referred to in guide
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 08:09 AM
MyFlyDream
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The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
414 Posts
Ahh ok thanks, now i understand the meaning

Maybe its good to explain a bit in more "noob" style.. to create a fool proof guide

I was flying with my quad a few minutes ago. with standard PID

The Aileron and Elevator are rock solid with standard settings.. also when i twitch the stick, it doesnt wobble.. need any more adjustment? increasing the P and I? until it does wobble..

What i want to know is the following..

When Hovering, if i increase the P to high it should wobble.. yes..
The I is for anti wobbling at stick release?? just for my uderstanding.

Also the YAW is solid when hovering.. but when i rotate and release the stick it slightly rotates out.. how to adjust this?
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 08:47 AM
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Austin, TX
Joined Jan 2009
822 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erazotropa View Post
Ahh ok thanks, now i understand the meaning

The Aileron and Elevator are rock solid with standard settings.. also when i twitch the stick, it doesnt wobble.. need any more adjustment?
if you like the stability...don't change it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by erazotropa View Post

When Hovering, if i increase the P to high it should wobble.. yes..
The I is for anti wobbling at stick release?? just for my uderstanding.
I've read many suggestions on how to tune I...the one I use is after you have adjusted P and D ,then tune I to eliminate any pitching up tendencies in forward flight after you release the stick...ie pitch forward to set fast forward flight attitude, then releasing the stick, the copter should hold attitude and continue flying...but its personal preference
Quote:
Originally Posted by erazotropa View Post
Also the YAW is solid when hovering.. but when i rotate and release the stick it slightly rotates out.. how to adjust this?
if it overshoots, you may have too high a P value on yaw...trying backing off a bit...increasing P increases the speed at which the gyros are brought back to zero (no rotation in that plane), but also increases overshoot, until at some point you get unstable and ring a lot or even uncontrollably...increasing D dampens these rings...slowly the rate of correction...smoothing the correction..
on the KK board with 4.7 firmware, yaw is a PI only loop with I fixed...you can only adjust P...I max it out and then back down to a point at which I get reasonable yaw stick sensitivity...you live with whatever overshoot you get, if any...
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 11:23 AM
FC flux'd
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Joined Jan 2007
537 Posts
added the setup guide to the first post. cheers Atx_Heli
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 11:27 AM
MyFlyDream
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The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
414 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atx_Heli View Post
if it overshoots, you may have too high a P value on yaw...trying backing off a bit...increasing P increases the speed at which the gyros are brought back to zero (no rotation in that plane), but also increases overshoot, until at some point you get unstable and ring a lot or even uncontrollably...increasing D dampens these rings...slowly the rate of correction...smoothing the correction..
Well when i release the Yaw stick it decays before it stops..

When hovering, yaw stays perfectly... but when i rotate and release the stick it decays and stop.. not a solid fix
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Austin, TX
Joined Jan 2009
822 Posts
okay, I thought you were saying it overshoots and bounces back...ie rings some...if it just slowly comes to rest, increase the P...that will make it try to zero the angular rotation quicker...

here is how the loop works...
-from steady state resting you give it a yaw input
-this results in an error signal since the gyro output is zero (no rotation)...ie error=stick input - gryo...this gets multiplied by P and output to the appropriate motors to start it yawing..
- angular rotation rate increases, until the gyro output = stick input and the error is zero...steady state yaw rotation rate
- then you release the stick input and error jumps the other direction since stick is zero and gyro reflects the rotation rate, this gets multiplied by P and sent to motors, rapidly decreasing yaw rate....as it approaches zero for the error, the motor correction ceases and you are stead state non-rotating...

now if P is too big, you overshoot the steady states above and ring...if too low, you approach the steady states more slowly...but corrections for outside disturbances (wind,etc.) is slowed and reduced...ie more drift..less "locked in"

its a tradeoff between responsiveness and locked in feeling, between overshoots and more drift/error in the steady state...
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 01:25 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
53 Posts
Hi all.
Might put some video of these prune of estavilizacion
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 03:00 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Nov 2011
949 Posts
Run into a problem with the lite board. I am using Turnigy Plush 6 ESCs and when I power up, the do their normal initial beep, then they all start beeping continuously, I think means throttle is not at the lowest position. I looked with the Multiwill GUI and it said the throttle was about 1100 which is low. It's not a specific ESC either, I can test them one by one and they all do it. They were working fine on a HK KK board, I just pulled that out and put the Lite board in. I haven't recompiled Multiwill yet.

Any ideas?
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Last edited by Erknie; Dec 15, 2011 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 03:24 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2011
53 Posts
Please estavilizadora some video of this. Thanks
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 03:48 PM
30 RC's and counting
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Atlanta, GA
Joined Mar 2005
949 Posts
Subbed. So is goodluckbuy still the least expensive place to buy for US delivery?
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