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Old Jan 13, 2013, 12:44 PM
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here you go .i only have 6 channels so i just use level and baro .
my compass is off again .it should be showing north right now .

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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:29 PM
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Ok, with those settings, yaw should be just fine. Can you test again, and if its still misbehaving, try to shoot a video?
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:32 PM
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maybe its just me .this is coming out a pirouette,how often will i be doing that with a video rig?
cant do no testing today ,light misty rain all day so far .

hey ..whats up with my compass?if i load a fresh copy of 2.0 then upload my sketch it usually straightens out .
i read somewhere that if you open your port and try to hit read too fast you can wipe your settings .maybe i done that and thats why my compass is off now .

that only comes into play if you enable mag right?
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
here you go .i only have 6 channels so i just use level and baro .
my compass is off again .it should be showing north right now .
Even with 6 channels you can program 2 or 3 way switches to give you a few more options. I have the DX6i and have set up 2 3-way switches.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying By View Post
Even with 6 channels you can program 2 or 3 way switches to give you a few more options. I have the DX6i and have set up 2 3-way switches.
Can you explain briefly how you did that? I have set up two two-position switches (flight mode and landing gear). How do you get the third position values?
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Can you explain briefly how you did that? I have set up two two-position switches (flight mode and landing gear). How do you get the third position values?
You need to set up mixes and then can get low, mid, high settings by using a combination of switches. You do use 2 switches to get all 3 positions, but it does allow a few additional options. (same as using the DX6i to have 3 position flaps).

I used this as a guide: http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/dx...-mix-for-modes

I had to play around with the mix settings a bit to get the proper low, mid and high values to register.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 11:24 AM
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Camera stabilization servos

Is is okay to connect the tilt/roll servos To be powered directly through the Crius SE board or should they be powered by a UBEC instead and only connect the signal wire to the RC board?

I am also looking for instructions on how to use a 3 position switch to control the tilt of the camera manually (using aux 1 or 2) instead of the auto stabilization control. ie. 3 different tilt positions depending on the switch position. Is this possible? I am using a 6 ch system.

If I change the tilt_pitch_aux_ch aux3 to aux2 will that give my tilt the manual control on the 6 ch radio? Although that would affect other options set in the GUI.
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Last edited by Flying By; Jan 14, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Wet Coast Canada
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Originally Posted by TS00 View Post
It's odd that you're getting an overshoot then.

Set the yaw values as: P:8.5 I:0 D:0

Turn off the mag.

Let us know what happens.
I have the same issue. It only does it when yawing to the left though. After centering the stick, it will continue to yaw another 1/4 turn or so. In a hover, it also drifts in yaw to the left. I have tried many different PID settings and have just tried your suggestion here with the same results. Have also upgraded from 1.9 to 2.0 and now 2.1. If I figure it out, I will post results. If anyone has suggestions, I would love to experiment.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Looking for opinions on how well the barometer will function inside this case with holes. As you can see there are good size openings in the case for the pins and wires; so do you think that this case, with a just a little foam on the baro chip, will work OK????

Will the airflow be sufficient to allow the baro chip to respond quickly?

BTW, the case is a Nintendo cartridge case, used here to help protect the board and to provide a mounting surface to anti-vibration gel (instead of applying it directly to the board). It is hinged to allow access and will have removable stand-offs inside the case to prevent movement.

Update 26 Jan: Well this didn't work out physically (to allow access to ports mostly) so I wont be trying it and wont know if the baro is affected or not.
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Last edited by Gordon2; Jan 26, 2013 at 10:58 AM. Reason: update
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordon2 View Post
Looking for opinions on how well the barometer will function inside this case with holes. As you can see there are good size openings in the case for the pins and wires; so do you think that this case, with a just a little foam on the baro chip, will work OK????

Will the airflow be sufficient to allow the baro chip to respond quickly?

BTW, the case is a Nintendo cartridge case, used here to help protect the board and to provide a mounting surface to anti-vibration gel (instead of applying it directly to the board). It is hinged to allow access and will have removable stand-offs inside the case to prevent movement.
excellent reuse of product .but i am thinking it should have an opening above the baro sensor ,the baro should still have some foam over it but it needs to have access to open air .thats my thought.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 03:26 PM
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excellent reuse of product .but i am thinking it should have an opening above the baro sensor ,the baro should still have some foam over it but it needs to have access to open air .thats my thought.
Thanks for you input.. I wonder if you (or anyone) has done any testing with air access restricted, and open just over the sensor, and open to the sides at a little distance? I would like to avoid propwash with a opening right at the baro chip but at the same time I need to make sure the pressure changes are not restricted. This way smaller foam (really just enough to block light and not restrict air at all) might work well. Keep the comments coming!.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 06:37 PM
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please connecting help with the HK MultiWii SE V2.0 controller
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 12:58 PM
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please connecting help with the HK MultiWii SE V2.0 controller
I think you're going to need to provide some detail about the exact problem you're experiencing before anyone can help. As much info as possible.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordon2 View Post
Looking for opinions on how well the barometer will function inside this case with holes. As you can see there are good size openings in the case for the pins and wires; so do you think that this case, with a just a little foam on the baro chip, will work OK????

Will the airflow be sufficient to allow the baro chip to respond quickly?

BTW, the case is a Nintendo cartridge case, used here to help protect the board and to provide a mounting surface to anti-vibration gel (instead of applying it directly to the board). It is hinged to allow access and will have removable stand-offs inside the case to prevent movement.
The biggest problem with the Baro is it is too sensitive, it needs to be in order to give us the accuracy we want. Even the slightest breez over the sensor will give a reading, Sit the board on your desk while it is connected to the GUI and very very and I mean very gently blow over it and watch the change on the readout, remember they are easly damaged by blowing directly onto them. Most experts recomend placing some breathable foam rubber (like air filter or pillowfoam) over the sensor to help dampen the output. there is also a FW fix to smooth it as well, think its r1240_dev. It made a world of difference to my SE board.

Hope this helps.

Pete.
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Last edited by jonesy40001; Jan 18, 2013 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 02:59 PM
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2005
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How to connect lights

Anyone know how to control LED strip lights with the Crius Multiwii SE?
I got these lights from Hobbyking and would like to control them (on/off) with a switch on my transmitter.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0mm_Blue_.html

Thanks
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