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Old Dec 03, 2011, 03:37 PM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
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A Tale of 2 Jugs




More & Completed Photos in thread comments



I thought it was time to post an update to this project. It really sort of began in the middle of summer after a faithful midair, head on collision. I was flying along the flight line about 30 feet high; WOT, when I struck another plane head on. The plane looked very rough but fixable. The fuselage was in good shape with the exception of the cracks in the firewall. The wing was torn up pretty bad, but fixable. I decided to order the P-47 replacement airframe to transfer over the guts and hold on to the crash parts for a possible future project.

The New air frame was built up with the original Snortin Bull however I had upgraded the motor to a Turnigy G25 870kV, with a Plush 60amp ESC. Using a 4s 2650 Lipo and the stock 9.5 x7.5 prop, this thing really tore up the sky with unlimited power and climb rates, all the while giving 5 solid minutes of flight time, mostly WOT! It is a much improved plane when it has this kind of power and speed. I then rebadge this Snortin Bull 2 as "Elsie, LiL Butch" from Callie Graphics, and I'm very happy with the look of this plane and scheme. There is something about a silver bubble top Jug that I just love!

So, Snorting Bull 1, was all crashed, gutted and in need of some love. I ordered the Park Flyer Plastics Razorback conversion kit and started at it. I have always wanted to do the Snafu P-47 Razorback, so an email to Callie Graphic set the wheels in motion. Let me say here that Callie has been amazing to deal with during the project. Her customer service and support are the best in the business!

Gluing on the razorback was straight forward. I used gorilla glue to bond it to the main frame. I then filled the seam with model railroad foam putty. This stuff is better than spackling compound in my mind as itís more like foam and less like drywall material. Areas of the fuselage where the decals were removed was also given a skim coat of the foam putty to smooth out the air frame foam. It was all lightly sanded with fine sandpaper and I think the results are worth it.

The fuselage was then sprayed with Krylon latex primer, sanded again to remove any irregularities, and then shot with a few more coats of primer. The color coat was then sprayed on using Testors Model Master FS 34087 Olive drab. 3 coats were sprayed on. The underside was sprayed with FS36440 Flat Gull Gray. I used a manila envelope held close to the airframe as a shadow mask to give me the fog spray line. It worked well. The air frame, wing and cowl were all assembled prior to spray painting.

One of my major apprehensions was in the application of the decals. As many of you who have work with foam models know, you usually only have on chance to get the decals on right, otherwise itís lifting your paint off and you are basically ruined, doneÖ So I took some time with this and let a week or two elapse. I thought it would give the paint time to cure, and allow me to strategize on how to tackle the decals. Surprisingly I thought the checked cowl would be the easier part as it was going on plastic, and the harder part would be the big sheets of invasion stripes going on the painted foam wings and fuse. Boy was I wrong. More on that laterÖ..

So during the planning and curing phase, I started to carve out the retractable tail wheel I had planned for this project. I had come across this mod by fellow forum member LiCobra (Tony). When I first seen this I knew I had to have it. I had planned for this in the first Jug , so itís funny it would see the second Jug instead. This required a bit of thinking of how to work it and could not have been done without Tonyís help and guidance. Iím just not that good Ö. While I was doing that I also cut out the side vents from the fuse. The reason being that I felt it would be easier to install the sheet of invasion stripes without these things in the way to bubble the big decals, it was a wise decision. Once the invasion stripes were on, I glued them back in place, in the opened position as stock.

The invasion stripes do not quite meet at the bottom and are about 2 inches apart. Callie has sent me out another sheet to complete this part as well as more cowl checkeringÖ. (That story is coming). The side invasion stripes went well. I applied these wet using a solution of water and dish washing soap. This allowed me to place and align the big decal sheet, making final adjustment easy. I used a rubber squeegee to press the decal down and to remove the excess solution. I then took to the wings using the same wet application. I have also removed the guns as they are in the way and will need to be painted into the scheme of the stripes. The underside stripes have not yet been installed as Iím waiting for my servos for the ailerons and flaps to arrive. I want to get everything installed and in place, using the invasion stripe decal as a covering for the servos and wires. This will still takes some planning on execution yet, but I still have lots of time. I installed the retracts, as the doors will be covered with the stripes.

So, remember that cowl that I thought would be easy(er)Ö? Well it seems it was a real buggar! The decals were comprised of black and white checkers. This makes covering the multiple compound curves much like trying to cover a light bulb with a sheet of printer paperÖ Difficult, even with the darts cut in to the decals. A more skilled person may be able to do it but I failed on 2 attempts of just the left side. I first tried the soapy water technique; however that did not work well as the decals were too thick, thus stiff and did not want to stay down around the front of the cowl in the engine nacelle. It just kept lifting with no sticking to the cowl. I had cut the decals into 5 rows as Tony suggested, however even that did not help the wrinkling that was occurring. So then I tried to go dry. Thatís when it all caved in on me and the decals for that section where ruined. With the dry surface, I laid the first section. That was good; it was when I tried to put on the second section when it all turned bad. The alignment was off due to wrinkling, so when I tried to lift it and realign it, you guessed it, it took the paint from the cowl with it. Scratch that decal. Now that in itself does not mean itís over, and even a repaint was not really required, but I did need another checkered decal or twoÖ.

An email to Callie had her setting me up with more decals free of charge. I canít say enough as this was not her fault, and was totally ďMy BadĒ. I worked out a deal with her for another project so I paid her something, but in the end I think I got the better end of the deal. I was in discussion with Tony about the checkering and how did he get his No Guts No Glory P-47 so perfect. He had helped me earlier with instructions and strategies on how to apply the checkering; however his decals were just the black checks, and not the complete black and white like mine. Feeling my pain, Tony then gave me an offer I could not refuseÖ. He offered to send me his spare pre checkered cowl he had made up, and all I had to do was send him back a cowl and checker decals!!! Well, How could I refuse?!? A quick email to Callie to arrange for, even more cowl checkers, a grab of my spare cowl inventory and I was set!

Callie & LiCobra, ďYou Folks are the Best!Ē

So while Iím waiting for the cowl decals, I decide to finish up what I can. I applied the call letters and tail stripes wet, the others I applied dry. I masked off the cowl and painted the section white. My next checked decals will be the black checks only. I think this should make application of them easier. Also part of me is thinking I may try my hand at painting the black checks onÖ No rush as I have Tonyís cowl coming so Iíll use that until I decide what to do. I took some progress pictures and hope to update this as I move along to completion. Provided it all works outÖ
I have been testing for prop combinations and have concluded that a modified APC 11x9x4 cut down to 10x9x4 will work well. This coupled with the a Turnigy G25 710kV motor will still provide speed and flight time without over amping the power system, such as with the G25 810kVÖ A bit of top end speed is given up with 810 kV and 2 blade prop, but based on how it flies, it has enough speed to give some up for more scale performance. Letís hope my calcs are close 


VZ

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Old Dec 03, 2011, 10:51 PM
Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
verticalspark's Avatar
United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Oct 2008
4,100 Posts
That is one sexy Jug! great work on it!
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 05:51 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
2,008 Posts
Thanks Vspark!
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 05:48 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
2,008 Posts
I hooked up the Turnigy G25 710kV to the P-47 today and this is going to work well by the numbers, comparative to the other setups I have used.

I was running a Tunigy G25 870kV previously which really gave the P-47 after burners like performance swinging a 9.5x7.5x2 prop, the down side to that motor is it could not really swing a 4 blade prop with out a higher than desired amp draw, and reduced run time. The 870kV was really better suited as a2 blade prop motor.

I then found the Turnigy G25 710kV, put it through ecalc simulations and it looked very nice swinging a 4 blade prop, even the HL 11x10x4 was with it it's comfort zone on paper. So I ordered up 2 of these and was able to test on today. Here are the numbers:


G25 870kV
PZ 9.5x7.5x2
2650mah 4s 25c
39.19 Max Amps
589 Watts
Est Flight Time 8.73 Min, Every thing is good. I got about 6 mins ave Lots of WOT
Pitch Speed 84 MPH


G25 870kV
APC 10x9x4
2650mah 4s 25c
66.24 Max Amps
953 Watts
Est Flight Time 4.8 min, however the Motor is over it's max Amp limit @ 56.3 A
Pitch Speed 88 MPH


G25 710kV
APC 10x9x4
2650mah 4s 25c
43.4 Max Amps
639 Watts
Est Flight Time 7.55 min, All systems look good
Pitch Speed 77 MPH

I think the 710kV is a winner!
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Last edited by ViperZ; Dec 09, 2011 at 05:59 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2011, 12:49 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
2,008 Posts
It must be Canada Post's busy season if they're delivering on Sundays! Not that I'm complaining at all, but I was surprised to come back from breakfast with a friend to see my cowl from LiCobra delivered!

Thanks Cobra! Seeing how you did this one really gives me an appreciation for all the work that went into it.... Once my Checkers arrive from Callie, I'll send back out to you!

I was able to get the olive drab and gray on the cowl to match up well. I also put a coat of the Zinc Chromate in the nacelle, but have not got pictures of it yet.

While the paint was drying I wired up the power system, and got that installed. Next up is the radio and servos. I'm anxious to see how the retractable tail wheel works!
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 01:13 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
2,008 Posts
Here are some photos I took while putting on one side of the wing stripes last night. It would seem I couldn't have done the other side even if I wanted to as I 'm waiting for some replacement wing stripes for a flawed one, as well as my checkers.

For the one side it took me a few hours, mainly as I had to fit the servos, test wire it up, and plan my attack. I cut the flap section as a separate section, however I'm not sure that was a good thing to do. Even with careful alignment of the stripes from front to back, cutting the section apart allowed a slight drift in alignment at the LE and TE. Not a big deal as it's mainly unnoticeable unless you align it with your eyes under scrutiny.

I rough cut the flap servo arm hole to allow placement, trimmed the edges as close as I could, peeled the sheet and applied it wet. This allow placement and alignment, as well as working time. After a few minutes of working, I then took a knife and trimmed the ends and then took to the landing gear doors and bay. Overall it worked out well, and I let it rest, Today it has stuck down very well and tight after the all the water evaporated.
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 01:11 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
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Nearing Completion

Finally with the holiday season I was able to get some work done on Snafu. I think it's close enough to be called done. There are some minor things to touch up, but the basic shell is complete. Radio gear has been installed and everything works.

I had to apply a 3 second servo speed to the rear retract, but it seems to work pretty well. The prop is the display HL 11x9x4 which will be replaced with a 10x9x4 APC once I make one up.

Thanks again to LiCobra for the cowl, that really helped until I can get one made up as a spare. Also for inspiring me and leading the way with the retracting tail wheel! I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Thanks for reading & looking

VZ
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 10:00 AM
220 221 Whatever it takes
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USA, IL, Belleville
Joined Dec 2009
276 Posts
I was wondering what the vertical decal on the left side of the fuse in front of the "SNAFU" and blue background/ wings is? It is not on the right side of the fuse. Showing my lack of knowledge. LOL
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 11:30 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captdave221 View Post
I was wondering what the vertical decal on the left side of the fuse in front of the "SNAFU" and blue background/ wings is? It is not on the right side of the fuse. Showing my lack of knowledge. LOL
Hi Captdave, I don't know a lot about these things, however I believe that emblem is form the former life of the plane when it was known as War Eagle... Typically most war planes display the art work on the starboard side only, I don't know why this is, but maybe it has something to do with the side of pilot entry.

The other vertical decal are brooms that are most likely awarded for each sweep mission completed.

VZ
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 11:40 AM
Quad Squad
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United States, TX, Spring
Joined Apr 2011
239 Posts
How did you prime it -did you spackLe it?
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 11:52 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManTownMedia View Post
How did you prime it -did you spackLe it?
I did give it a skim coat of foam model railroad putty over the old decal areas and parts that needed repair. Then lightly sanded with fine grit, and then sprayed it with Krylon latex primer. I lightly sanded again and re primed.
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 12:43 PM
220 221 Whatever it takes
captdave221's Avatar
USA, IL, Belleville
Joined Dec 2009
276 Posts
Ok I got it. It was the broom decal I was not able to decipher.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 26, 2011, 08:51 AM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captdave221 View Post
Ok I got it. It was the broom decal I was not able to decipher.

Thanks.
I would love to find a good resource that explains what all these markings are about. A book of why, where and when, if you will.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Holly Hill, Fl.
Joined Mar 2005
710 Posts
Thats a GREAT looking Jug and I think you did an excellent job. I admire your perseverance in completing the model. It looks well worth the effort.

Regards
Mike
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 03:15 PM
This is my Nemesis....
ViperZ's Avatar
Canada, SK, Saskatoon
Joined Jan 2011
2,008 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flmlm View Post
Thats a GREAT looking Jug and I think you did an excellent job. I admire your perseverance in completing the model. It looks well worth the effort.

Regards
Mike
Thanks Mike, it was a lot of fun and learning at the same time
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