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Old Dec 03, 2011, 01:52 PM
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United States, FL, Edgewater
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Build Log
Orline 1/5 Scale Sopwith Pup

I bought this kit from some guy on Craigslist. Good price but the box looked horrible. I opened her up at home to find a complete kit(minus instructions and a Williams 1/5 Vickers Machine gun kit). More on the Vickers machine gun later.

Original Specs:

Orline 1/5 Stand-off Scale Sopwith Pup

Wingspan:67.5
Wing Area: 1586sq.in.
Weight:10lbs.
Engine:.60 2-stroke(I do not have an enginge selected yet. Opinions accepted, would like to use a four stroke. 90 maybe a 120 twin? We're talking ten pounds here. )

Since I am sans instructions, I plan on using my own judgement on assembly; as I have sucessfully built and flown near 20 aircraft. I am going to use only Titebond II Premium Wood Glue for assembly; I will use epoxy in the wing joints and firewall assemblies. This will be my first build using only Titebond. Experiments I have done make me eager to test it out.

I am welcome to anyone's opinion, or suggestions. If anyone reading has information opn the wherebouts of a manual, let me know.

It appeared everything as far as wood was there. I noticed a couple broken wing ribs and that was it. After cutting out the wing ribs(and an adult beverage later), I had a couple more broken ribs. All in all, I have 92 Sopwith Pup wing ribs ready to meet their spars, although I am going to start with the tail surfaces. Vertical and horizontal sabilizers, Rudder, and Elevator are first up.

Any Followers?
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Last edited by no1isnormal; Dec 03, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 10:38 AM
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Horizontal tail surfaces

I started the tail surfaces last night. I really enjoy working with the Titebond over CAs; the use, cleanup, and no odor of the aliphatic glue is great. Plus I have plenty of time to setup the piece(s) before finalizing the postition.

The horizontal stabilizer and elevator were framed out of 1/4" Balsa die-cut ends and center section, a pre-cut leading edge(seriously I touched up the ends with sandpaper and the piece was perfect), and 1/4x3/8 trailing edge.

There are also a set of ribs which are glued atop the 1/4"x1/4" framework. These little 1/16" things were a pain to work with. I only had to cut out 1 from the same stock they all came from.

Cap strips will cover all the ribs. This is one massive tail section at 26".

Anyone feel free to offer any suggestions or opinions!
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Lot of wood in that one! Going to subscribe looks interesting.
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Plano, TX
Joined Nov 2006
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You're moving quick! BTW, I've been using Titebond on my SE5a build and it it my favorite glue for my kit.
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Old Dec 05, 2011, 06:16 AM
Hey Guys, Watch This.......
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USA, TX, El Paso
Joined Dec 2003
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Looks great.
Mike
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Old Dec 05, 2011, 02:18 PM
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hoffboy's Avatar
Olympia, WA
Joined Feb 2008
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I personally hate CA (though it has its uses, and I use it reluctantly) so it warms my heart to discover another Titebond convert!

I have an embarrassingly large library of reference material on the Pup, so if I can answer questions, hit me. The Pup is sort of an obsession of mine.

For strengthening the tail feathers, are you open to functional rigging? You've got two sets of flying wires to install back there; might as well be good for something, right?

When you're done with this build, I would love to borrow the plans for a quick copy, or just purchase them from you outright if you're not going to need them. Would make a nice addition to the aforementioned library.

Lastly, I see you're an IPA man, so you have great taste in aircraft AND beer!

-Matt
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Old Dec 05, 2011, 07:28 PM
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FatCat, I enjoy building and have been having more fun not having to unstick my fingers every 10 minutes. I am enjoying Titebond.

Thanks Mike. I have not tried sanding this glue yet so let's see what she looks like after that.

Matt, I would be obliged if you had some photos of the scale tail(and wing)rigging. If I made the tail rigging functional I can simply glue the vertical as it suggests and let the "wires" hold it on. I am open to function rigging. I accidentally made my J-3's aesthetic wing and jury struts completely funtional. I can hold the whole plane by the wing struts now, not that that is normal practice.

I did some more work on the fuselage sides. The tail surfaces are pretty much done being built.
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 01:49 AM
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Here's some drawings and a photo that should shed some light on rigging points, hardware, etc.
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 06:56 AM
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Wow rigging wires really hold the full scale together huh? I see two tail wires on top and two on bottom. is this correct? Might you have a picture of the aircraft showing the tail wires?
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 10:06 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no1isnormal View Post
Wow rigging wires really hold the full scale together huh? I see two tail wires on top and two on bottom. is this correct? Might you have a picture of the aircraft showing the tail wires?
Yep, two high and two low on each side form nice strong triangles. Here's a fantastic shot from Airliners.net of what I believe is the Shuttleworth replica (used to be a Dove, before conversion to Pup config).

You'll also note the rudder and elevator cable exits, UC rigging, and aileron cables (if you're going full scale).

I keep threatening to go to England for a closer look, but the Shuttleworth folks can't commit to flying dates or times (fussy aircraft plus TIGHT insurance constraints that limit them to something like an hour / year of flight time, or so I've read) and I can't afford to wait around for weeks just to see one airplane fly, tempting though it is.

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Old Dec 06, 2011, 12:23 PM
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hoffboy, awesome documentation! You are obsessed by the Pup. How's you documentation on the SE5a?
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Olympia, WA
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Originally Posted by fatcat220 View Post
hoffboy, awesome documentation! You are obsessed by the Pup. How's you documentation on the SE5a?
Zilch, but I'm good a research.
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 12:45 PM
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To clarify rigging a bit (for the curious) the wires that run between the interplane struts (fore-aft) are incidence wires that...wait for it...wait for it...help maintain proper wing incidence.

The wires running diagonally side to side (struts to fuse) are flying wires that keep the wings from buckling under load. Imagine what would happen during a hard landing without them. Bye bye wings. Ditto for a super hard climb, only they would fold back instead of forward/down.

The empennage rigging is pretty self-explanatory with the pairs of wires (high/low--side/side) stabilizing the fins. Note that weak spars can still buckle under load, but I've never heard of it happening on a full scale WWI bipe without bullets being involved.

The entire fuse is cross braced with wire all the way back. Check out hammerd's stunning DR1 build here on RCG for a great example...but don't go there unless you want to be humiliated into giving up modelling altogether.

-Matt
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Old Dec 06, 2011, 02:12 PM
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I laid out the first Fuselage half while the glue finished drying on the other side's stringers. I started building the framework between the two stringers. By the time I finished the first side the second was ready to be laid on top and I made an exact copy(mirrorred actually, I hope).

I had to fixup the bottom tail fuselage joiner. It had a long section removed for the horrendous Tailskid. I plan to make a more scale setup possibly steerable as well.


More time enjoying other things while glue dries

Matt, I was just referencing the numerous wires that made up the entire airframe as supporting the whole. I was looking for pictures of the tail rigging. Thank you for the info so far! I am having fun with this build. I was also thinking of removing the ply side where the cockpit area is to reveal fabric from the inside like the full size. I wanted to do a little cockpit detailing as well.
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Last edited by no1isnormal; Dec 06, 2011 at 02:21 PM.
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