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Old Jan 16, 2012, 05:44 AM
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Sounds like maybe some luminary micro part or maybe an unknown chinese knockoff. Pinout didn't match anything sensible but I didn't spend a lot of time looking. Whatever I2C "problems" exist don't affect normal operation/usage. I've done I2C on both STM8 and STM32 as master and slave and had no issues. Its quirky, such as 2-byte buffering stuff, but once you get it, it makes sense.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 07:21 AM
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Guys, question on low temperature problem: do you think the sensors need to accommodate to ambient temperature or they simply don't work in lower temperatures?

I also have simple FPV TX/RX (5.8GHz RC 305) and when it is like 5 degrees or less I have no image. It looks like it gets untuned or something. It works nicely inside or outside when temperature is higher.

So I wonder if this board simply does not work in cold or needs to acquire outside temperature before power up...
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 07:32 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,267 Posts
Hi Eaton,
Good to see you here too ...and now Prof Greg too while he awaits his own version of cheapo FCB fun with the Rabbit board

As was asked by someone earlier, did you check and save the 12c switch in the ZN setup utility? Are you using the ZN v1.07? You should try to change the PID first before you attempt an upgrade. If you do decide to upgrade make sure you follow the steps exactly as there have been some upgrade issues. Review the first post in this thread. One found key to upgrade success is to not check the erase all pages block.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by eaton View Post
Hi Jim

Good to see you here!

I used the default PID setting that worked fine with PWM ESC.
I can't believe why I2C was slower than PWM, and may need to adjust PID.

By the way, in order to adjust PID, should I upgrade to 1.24?, and
is there any issue to upgrade from 1.21 to 1.24?

Thanks
Eaton
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 07:38 AM
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He might be wasting his time with the rabbit, unknown CPU and I don't think debug stuff is broken out.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 07:49 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,267 Posts
Alek
A best practice for multicopter FCB's is to let them acclimate to the flying environment temps for 10-15 minutes before a flight. It has yet not been cold enough here to see any drifting from only a 20 degree temperature change, so a test for later for me

Suggestions: Hook up an old lipo to it while it acclimates too as that will also change the board temp as the regulator heats up. Remember that it zeroes the gyros in the first two seconds of power on, so when you put on a flying lipo, make sure it is absolutely still for those seconds after applying power. Other than that you might try to recalibrate the IMU while it is acclimated to thee cold temperatures. That would be a pain.

Another thing that can cause drift or flipping on a multicopters in a cold flying environment are the ESCs. Some are notorious for not arming or for changing their throttle range in cold temperatures of about 20F/-7C or less. Again recalibrating them while they are acclimated in those low flying temperatures seems to make them work OK.

Hope that helps
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d View Post
Guys, question on low temperature problem: do you think the sensors need to accommodate to ambient temperature or they simply don't work in lower temperatures?

I also have simple FPV TX/RX (5.8GHz RC 305) and when it is like 5 degrees or less I have no image. It looks like it gets untuned or something. It works nicely inside or outside when temperature is higher.

So I wonder if this board simply does not work in cold or needs to acquire outside temperature before power up...
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Another thing that can cause drift or flipping on a multicopters in a cold flying environment are the ESCs. Some are notorious for not arming or for changing their throttle range in cold temperatures of about 20F/-7C or less. Again recalibrating them while they are acclimated in those low flying temperatures seems to make them work OK.

Hope that helps
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Well, I think the most likely it is board sensors that get mad because my cam gimbal gets totally off the basic position when this occurs. I mean, after that short flight when I noticed level problem I landed and repowered the board. Gimbal got full roll and pitch responded like it was almost frosen. I moved the quad and pitch barely responded to my moves. This suggests like angle sensors output nonsense values.

This quad has HobbyKing SS porgrammable ESCs but I think they are similar if not the same like Plush. I flew Plush and Mystery ESCs in my airplane in much much colder weather, like -13, and I did not notice any problems with them.

I'll try temperature accommodation later today to see if that helps.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 08:33 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,267 Posts
Alek,
OK. Yes it sounds FCB related in your case. Remember that you must re-power after you let it acclimate before flying.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d View Post
Well, I think the most likely it is board sensors that get mad because my cam gimbal gets totally off the basic position when this occurs. I mean, after that short flight when I noticed level problem I landed and repowered the board. Gimbal got full roll and pitch responded like it was almost frosen. I moved the quad and pitch barely responded to my moves. This suggests like angle sensors output nonsense values.

This quad has HobbyKing SS porgrammable ESCs but I think they are similar if not the same like Plush. I flew Plush and Mystery ESCs in my airplane in much much colder weather, like -13, and I did not notice any problems with them.

I'll try temperature accommodation later today to see if that helps.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by snapper1234 View Post
Can you ask your Chinese friends on QQ which version of RealView they're building the firmware with? Thanks ~
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:04 AM
Hooked on FPV
Joined Jan 2012
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Repost because nobody answered:
Sorry, these questions may have already been answered but I don't have enough free time to go through the 50 pages of posts...
Does this new free flight card have a baro or compass?
Is there a diagram showing what each chip on the board is?
Is it really plug and play or does it take some tweaking?
Do they have the software in English yet?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:08 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
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Hi,
I suggest that you start reading at the first post that Chris keeps updated as the FreeFlight controller information becomes available. All your questions are answered there.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrocium View Post
Repost because nobody answered:
Sorry, these questions may have already been answered but I don't have enough free time to go through the 50 pages of posts...
Does this new free flight card have a baro or compass?
Is there a diagram showing what each chip on the board is?
Is it really plug and play or does it take some tweaking?
Do they have the software in English yet?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Slovakia
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrocium View Post
Repost because nobody answered:
Sorry, these questions may have already been answered but I don't have enough free time to go through the 50 pages of posts...
Does this new free flight card have a baro or compass?
Is there a diagram showing what each chip on the board is?
Is it really plug and play or does it take some tweaking?
Do they have the software in English yet?
1. No baro, no compass.... for $50???
2. It was not really PNP for me, but I had problem with my frame too. But it flies and for others it was PNP.
3. Manual in the first post.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Alek
A best practice for multicopter FCB's is to let them acclimate to the flying environment temps for 10-15 minutes before a flight. It has yet not been cold enough here to see any drifting from only a 20 degree temperature change, so a test for later for me

Suggestions: Hook up an old lipo to it while it acclimates too as that will also change the board temp as the regulator heats up. Remember that it zeroes the gyros in the first two seconds of power on, so when you put on a flying lipo, make sure it is absolutely still for those seconds after applying power. Other than that you might try to recalibrate the IMU while it is acclimated to thee cold temperatures. That would be a pain.

Another thing that can cause drift or flipping on a multicopters in a cold flying environment are the ESCs. Some are notorious for not arming or for changing their throttle range in cold temperatures of about 20F/-7C or less. Again recalibrating them while they are acclimated in those low flying temperatures seems to make them work OK.

Hope that helps
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Ok, so I did a test and the board failed. I left it outside for about 15 minutes. It is -3 right now. Then I tried to fly it. It drifted more and more in a matter of seconds, battery reconnect did not help much. Finally, after battery reconnect it would not even arm. Took home, waited about 15 minutes, it arms again.

Hmmm, this board is for summer only
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:33 AM
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Boston
Joined Mar 2006
168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi Eaton,
Good to see you here too ...and now Prof Greg too while he awaits his own version of cheapo FCB fun with the Rabbit board

As was asked by someone earlier, did you check and save the 12c switch in the ZN setup utility? Are you using the ZN v1.07? You should try to change the PID first before you attempt an upgrade. If you do decide to upgrade make sure you follow the steps exactly as there have been some upgrade issues. Review the first post in this thread. One found key to upgrade success is to not check the erase all pages block.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Hi Jim,
Yes, I selected I2C when tested.

Unfortunately, my board did not work, after upgrading to 1.24.
Everything working fine with PC program (I did RC cal and IMU cal),
but I could not ARM the motors.

Then, I have returned to original version (1.21) which I saved before upgrading to 1.24.

The Board is now working, but it shows glitches.
I am not sure it is related with upgrading and downgrading issue, or
some connections are bad.

I need to install UAVP on the same frame, and confirm any wiring issue, or
contact issue

Eaton
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:43 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,267 Posts
Alek,
Not arming in the cold also points to ESCs. What ESCs are you using?
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d View Post
...
Ok, so I did a test and the board failed. I left it outside for about 15 minutes. It is -3 right now. Then I tried to fly it. It drifted more and more in a matter of seconds, battery reconnect did not help much. Finally, after battery reconnect it would not even arm. Took home, waited about 15 minutes, it arms again.

Hmmm, this board is for summer only
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Slovakia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Alek,
Not arming in the cold also points to ESCs. What ESCs are you using?
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC (card programmable)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6548

I still think it is the board. Gimbal was dead, and it normally works even if the board is not armed, only powered is enough for gimbal to work. But it was dead.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 01:35 PM
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The Netherlands, LI, Venray
Joined Dec 2008
1,322 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d View Post
Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC (card programmable)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6548

I still think it is the board. Gimbal was dead, and it normally works even if the board is not armed, only powered is enough for gimbal to work. But it was dead.
curious...what is a gimbal??
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