Originally Posted by Tom Frank

THANK YOU! Exactly what I wanted to hear. .. and already my board is "obsolete" (just kidding, I hope)! Can you tell any noticeable difference in the boards other than they probably just corrected the obsolete "v1.2" labelling on one side of the board?

No Tom, I think it's just the stencil that changed. I have just one quad. I haven't flown both boards yet, but I did the complete hook-up and programming with each. I see no difference. Enjoy!

cabling for BMP085 and HMC5883 connection to the FF controller.
Now who does not understand .....

http://www.ebay.de/itm/180832840925

http://www.ebay.de/itm/160640476451

Thanks for a super clear explanation.

I just got this board from goodluckbuy.com, shipped fast and arrived compete.

Set it up on my quad in 20min, software was easy to use.
(mine came with v1.24 of the firmware)

Did the calibrations and plugged it all in, set off and OMFG... this board is insane.
I have only ever used KK boards on my quad and switching to this has blown my mind. i pretty much feel like im cheating when i fly with this board. stabilization works great.straight off the bat i could fly hands off.

This is such a good buy, i would recommend it to anyone whos coming from kk boards and wants something with stabilization.

You say "stabilization works great.straight off the bat i could fly hands off." It is unreal stabilization and I have not gone into the PID program.

That is how mine is but I took longer to get it like that. My problem I started with a 3S LiPo and had no throttle control but now on a 2S LiPo.

Are you on a 2S LiPo? If on 3S what TX are you using?

Originally Posted by Judar

I just got this board from goodluckbuy.com, shipped fast and arrived compete.

Set it up on my quad in 20min, software was easy to use.
(mine came with v1.24 of the firmware)

Did the calibrations and plugged it all in, set off and OMFG... this board is insane.
I have only ever used KK boards on my quad and switching to this has blown my mind. i pretty much feel like im cheating when i fly with this board. stabilization works great.straight off the bat i could fly hands off.

This is such a good buy, i would recommend it to anyone whos coming from kk boards and wants something with stabilization.

Thanks a lot for this, definitely better for beginners than any explanation.

- Which diameter of connecting wires would you recommend?
- Do you think these versions need additional resistors?

I had to mess about with PID settings before I could even get mine to fly at all.
Is it because I'm using a small (165mm shaft to shaft diagonal) frame or + config?
Are you guys in + or x config?

I'm also running a 2S setup due to high (2200) KV motors.

Are the PID values actually specific to each quad frame/motor/battery system?
The defaults appear to be just fine for a larger diagonal but were un-flyable for mine.

I also think that my R_P_Stick_P value is too high. I can fly using 50% TX dual rates but at 100% the slightest movement more than a whisker causes the quad to react and then oscillate like mad.

I feel like I'm getting there but it's a long process, partly because I must unscrew the receiver plate in order to connect the USB\serial board cable.

I still do not know exactly what PIDs do as the goodluckbuy ones with 1.24 installed seem to be great out of the box. Did you get this one with version 1.24 already installed?

I am using X config. MIne only oscillates if I am coming down too fast and that is with very bad flying mainly when I did not have throttle control on the 3S LiPO..

Not sure what TX you have but it would be hard adjusting the throttle without seeing the curve on the TX LCD screen.

Makes it really hard when you have to unscrew the receiver plate all the time. My controller is on top.

To fine tune mine I used the trims next to the joysticks (I guess that is what I am suppose to do) but that was fine tuning to hover in the one spot in a single car garage.

Someone else will have to answer this one for you as I am new to this also (Are the PID values actually specific to each quad frame/motor/battery system?)

Hope it comes good soon.

Originally Posted by thwaitm

I had to mess about with PID settings before I could even get mine to fly at all.
Is it because I'm using a small (165mm shaft to shaft diagonal) frame or + config?
Are you guys in + or x config?

I'm also running a 2S setup due to high (2200) KV motors.

Are the PID values actually specific to each quad frame/motor/battery system?
The defaults appear to be just fine for a larger diagonal but were un-flyable for mine.

I also think that my R_P_Stick_P value is too high. I can fly using 50% TX dual rates but at 100% the slightest movement more than a whisker causes the quad to react and then oscillate like mad.

I feel like I'm getting there but it's a long process, partly because I must unscrew the receiver plate in order to connect the USB\serial board cable.

Originally Posted by Papiti

Thanks a lot for this, definitely better for beginners than any explanation.

- Which diameter of connecting wires would you recommend?
- Do you think these versions need additional resistors?

Attachment 4719926

Attachment 4719927

The pullup resistors on original FF are pretty crappy (10k i think?)
If stuff doesn't work, replace them with like 3.3K. I use 1k on afro32.
only replace stuff if it doesnt work.

Originally Posted by Papiti

Thanks a lot for this, definitely better for beginners than any explanation.
- Which diameter of connecting wires would you recommend?
- Do you think these versions need additional resistors?

I see both boards have 10k pullups,
on the hmc5883 activated with a solder bridge on the back side.
on the BMP085 activated with a solder bridge on the top side.

thin wires are enough! e.g. see picture!

Originally Posted by timecop

The pullup resistors on original FF are pretty crappy (10k i think?) If stuff doesn't work, replace them with like 3.3K. I use 1k on afro32.
only replace stuff if it doesnt work.

10k on FF Board, 10k on HMC5883 and 10k on BMP085 = 3k3 !

Originally Posted by timecop

The pullup resistors on original FF are pretty crappy (10k i think?)
If stuff doesn't work, replace them with like 3.3K. I use 1k on afro32.
only replace stuff if it doesnt work.

Sorry for a couple of dumb questions and have been loosely reading all along.

1. What will these two boards give me in FF 1.24 firmware? (nothing much I suppose)

2. What will they give me in MW firmware? (Baro for height stability and Mag to guide or bring it back on compass headings) Not totally sure.

Thanks

1. alt-hold assuming multiwii ever figures out how to make it work
2. headfree and heading hold w/mag. those 2 work very well.
headfree = carefree = no matter which way copter is pointing, pitch forward always means pitch away from you.
heading hold = should stay in same heading even if gyros drift (not really a big deal recently with mems gyros and mpu3050 on FF is a good gyro). s ee multiwii.com for more explanations of how things work.

correct, both are utterly useless in FF firmware. you can see pressure readings with baro on FF, but there's nothing else to do with it. maybe they will support it in the future.
there's apparently a mag board for FF, but its same size (5x5cm) and I'm not sure what else it includes, but anyhow, I've not seen firmware that makes use of it.

PID values can vary dependent on prop diameter/pitch, number of cells, motor Kv, prop to prop distance, overall weight, response of ESC to input changes to name but a few.

Peter

Originally Posted by Firepower

I still do not know exactly what PIDs do as the goodluckbuy ones with 1.24 installed seem to be great out of the box. Did you get this one with version 1.24 already installed?

I am using X config. MIne only oscillates if I am coming down too fast and that is with very bad flying mainly when I did not have throttle control on the 3S LiPO..

Not sure what TX you have but it would be hard adjusting the throttle without seeing the curve on the TX LCD screen.

Makes it really hard when you have to unscrew the receiver plate all the time. My controller is on top.

To fine tune mine I used the trims next to the joysticks (I guess that is what I am suppose to do) but that was fine tuning to hover in the one spot in a single car garage.

Someone else will have to answer this one for you as I am new to this also (Are the PID values actually specific to each quad frame/motor/battery system?)

Hope it comes good soon.

Originally Posted by timecop

1. alt-hold assuming multiwii ever figures out how to make it work
2. headfree and heading hold w/mag. those 2 work very well.
headfree = carefree = no matter which way copter is pointing, pitch forward always means pitch away from you.
heading hold = should stay in same heading even if gyros drift (not really a big deal recently with mems gyros and mpu3050 on FF is a good gyro). s ee multiwii.com for more explanations of how things work.

correct, both are utterly useless in FF firmware. you can see pressure readings with baro on FF, but there's nothing else to do with it. maybe they will support it in the future.
there's apparently a mag board for FF, but its same size (5x5cm) and I'm not sure what else it includes, but anyhow, I've not seen firmware that makes use of it.

Thanks for that. I guess I'll get the boards now and slowly get into them, as only just started. I try to get a couple of flights in each day or night to get my skills up. Not doing too bad and have not broken any props yet.

Thanks again.