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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:00 AM
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Hi,

I tried TCs firmware and all went well. In acro mode its very stable but after switching to level its hard to control. My quad tilts to the site. Sometimes right, sometimes left
My quad is stable with ff firmware.
I reduced 'level' settings to 7 but no alteration.

Any idea except multiwii thread?

Regards
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:02 AM
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Apparently need to reduce level I term, check Afro thread.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:03 AM
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Hi Tc,

Ill check it out.
Thx
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:08 PM
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First flight in the backyard to test hovering with the latest MWC. Experienced the same as others: Level PID was uncontrollable. Turned it off, it hovered smoothly. Turned it on, it jittered, then took off out of my yard. It was all I could do to kill the arm switch, it came down hard upside down and broke off all the props. Luckily, it was grass on the property behind me.

Thinking I might try the FF 1.4 to compare, but at this point, I've got the jitters. Yard is definitely not the place to try to fly around, seems to be asking for trouble.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rifraf View Post
First flight in the backyard to test hovering with the latest MWC. Experienced the same as others: Level PID was uncontrollable. Turned it off, it hovered smoothly. Turned it on, it jittered, then took off out of my yard. It was all I could do to kill the arm switch, it came down hard upside down and broke off all the props. Luckily, it was grass on the property behind me.

Thinking I might try the FF 1.4 to compare, but at this point, I've got the jitters. Yard is definitely not the place to try to fly around, seems to be asking for trouble.
So despite the comments immediately above, and over the last few day or so, you haven't actually tried changing the PID settings to those that actually would have worked, and likely saved you four props? I mean, it's up to you but the autolevel issue has been pretty much sorted... To save you some time try P=9.0, I=0.005, D=15 for the autolevel PID settings.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:43 PM
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I'll try those settings, and yeah, I have been reading... But having it take off like that really freaked me out.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:56 PM
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Who needs auto level when it hovers in place gyro only?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Who needs auto level when it hovers in place gyro only?
Yeah it definitely is not for hovering, but perhaps for noob pilots like me it might help recover from disorientation screw-ups. That's assuming you can fly about with it left on. Switching ON something is the last thing on my mind as my copter heads earthwards lol. Will try it today or tomorrow.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Who needs auto level when it hovers in place gyro only?
Maybe them, extremely low PID settings might help recovery when really upset, and otherwise have small impact. My quad is only 400mm, so I am wondering if it just needs really low adjustments, anyway.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:21 PM
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Adding A BMP085 Baro Chip To The FF Board

Quote:
Originally Posted by f5soh View Post
BMP085 is soldered on board, very small but it works now....

Removed tin from board pads with soldering braid and put solder paste (a little)
Put tin on pads on chip with solder paste,

Carefully i fix a chip on board with one pad, verify and solder all pads, add a little tin...

In Gui altitude change about 3m, it's normal ?
I also just completed a successful install of a BMP085 baro chip on my FF board, and want to thank you for sharing your successful method. I thought it might be helpful to give added details of my experience to others, who like me may have basic soldering skills, but little or no experiencing soldering tiny surface mount chips like the BMP085.

1. I basically did the same initial steps you did to remove tinned solder from the circuit board traces using paste flux on copper de-soldering braid placed on the traces and heated with my low wattage (20 watts, I think) soldering iron. Slowly dragging the heated braid across the pads removed most of the solder, and a second pass with clean braid and flux finished the job. The traces were cleaned of excess flux with a cotton-tip swab wetted with denatured alcohol and wiped dry with a paper towel.

2. I also tinned the pads as lightly as possible on the bottom of the baro chip after a very thin swipe with paste flux. But I then did one added step of very lightly rubbing the baro chip pads after tinning on a nail file emery board to remove any high solder spots and get all the pads on the same plane so they will all make close contact with the circuit board. I cleaned up extra flux again with alcohol.

3. Then I added very thin layer of paste flux on the chip pads and the circuit board traces and lightly set the chip on the circuit board traces with the "Pin 1" dot on the chip oriented next to the Pin 1 dot on the circuit board. Without pressing it down, I nudged the tiny chip on the sides with a tooth pick so it was centered on the traces.

4. Next I used the low wattage soldering iron with a pencil sharp tip and touched the circuit board trace at pin 5 (opposite corner from pin 1), then added as small a dot of solder as I could muster with 1/32 in. diameter solder (smaller dia. solder would be better). I held the iron for a couple of seconds to help get solder flow under the chip to engage the tinned solder on the chip, being careful not to move the chip out of alignment. I picked pin 5 to be the first solder point because that pad is not used according to the chip data sheet. I wanted to see if the solder had flowed under the chip to melt into the tinned pad on the chip, and not done any damage to the circuit board.

5. After giving it about a half minute to cool down, I tested the solder joint by gently trying to nudge the chip out of position. Success! It held firm, so I now had the confidence to one by one solder the remaining traces.

6. When all traces were done and cool, I again cleaned the circuit board with alcohol, and proceed to do a functional test using the ZN program.

7. It's alive! The program had previously reported a static "Hight Value" of 0 in initial FF board checkout, and now it showed a fluctuating value centered on 210.xxxx. I think I read earlier this number is in meters with the FF ZN program. By moving the board up and down about one meter, I could see the value change to 211.xxxx and 209.xxxx respectively, so I can only assume the baro chip is functioning as it should. If the output value displayed is in meters, this converts very closely to my local altitude AMSL after adjusting for the low pressure weather moving through the area at the time the reading was taken.

Sorry if this is too much info for those here skilled with building/modifying circuit boards like this, but for those of us who are mainly used to only soldering on Deans plugs to batteries, it might be helpful! Some attachments with more info attached.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Nice writeup!
Since FF firmware doesnt do anything with baro besides showing the height, you can join the dudes testing MWC version of it
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Nice writeup!
Since FF firmware doesnt do anything with baro besides showing the height, you can join the dudes testing MWC version of it
Yeah, I know I'm ahead of the FF firmware game, but decided to install the chip while I was assembling the quad and doing basic system checkout. I'll start out with the FF firmware, not having any real quad flight experience (only on my flight sim). But if the FF board handles anything like the sim, it should be fairly easy (I have aerobatic plane skills). At some point I will probably want to press the flight envelope, and want to install the Wii firmware, or maybe FF will have an update by then. They obviously had the baro chip planned when they designed their board.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 08:13 PM
Firepower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yeah, I know I'm ahead of the FF firmware game, but decided to install the chip while I was assembling the quad and doing basic system checkout. I'll start out with the FF firmware, not having any real quad flight experience (only on my flight sim). But if the FF board handles anything like the sim, it should be fairly easy (I have aerobatic plane skills). At some point I will probably want to press the flight envelope, and want to install the Wii firmware, or maybe FF will have an update by then. They obviously had the baro chip planned when they designed their board.
Good stuff Tom on the baro chip. Mine is flying great now just on FF 1.4 with the help of the blokes here and even scarring the neighbors with the LEDs at night. I find it is easier to fly at night with the LEDs than during the day.

After getting on to the 2S LiPos the throttle came good and I could control the height then came steering it. I have not tried a simulator but using the controls was easy after the planes and helicopters.

I can control it quite smoothly now but if coming down too fast with wobbles I just apply a lot of power and it just levels out perfectly. I have not tried out any PID adjustments yet but do not seem to need to do this. (maybe I do but it is flying great)

I'll have to try a mini quad with FPV next.

Hope yours goes good soon.

Col
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
Good stuff Tom on the baro chip. Mine is flying great now just on FF 1.4 with the help of the blokes here and even scarring the neighbors with the LEDs at night. I find it is easier to fly at night with the LEDs than during the day.

After getting on to the 2S LiPos the throttle came good and I could control the height then came steering it. I have not tried a simulator but using the controls was easy after the planes and helicopters.

I can control it quite smoothly now but if coming down too fast with wobbles I just apply a lot of power and it just levels out perfectly. I have not tried out any PID adjustments yet but do not seem to need to do this. (maybe I do but it is flying great)

I'll have to try a mini quad with FPV next.

Hope yours goes good soon.

Col
I've been reading of your 3S motor speed problem...strange! I hope I don't have that. The wrong motors were sent with my quad frame and controller, so new ones just got in the mail today. It will be a few weeks before I am ready for first "lift off" attempt. But I can try one motor on the controller I already set up to test the motor starting performance to see if it will start smoothly on 3S.

The night flying is something I want to try, too. I know the most common LED strips operate right off 3S power, but I want to also rig up several LEDS on the 5v (I think) buzzer circuit for low battery visual alarm in lieu of the buzzer I can't hear well. Are your LEDs visible in bright sun?
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Mar 15, 2012 at 08:49 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rifraf View Post
First flight in the backyard to test hovering with the latest MWC. Experienced the same as others: Level PID was uncontrollable. Turned it off, it hovered smoothly. Turned it on, it jittered, then took off out of my yard. It was all I could do to kill the arm switch, it came down hard upside down and broke off all the props. Luckily, it was grass on the property behind me.

Thinking I might try the FF 1.4 to compare, but at this point, I've got the jitters. Yard is definitely not the place to try to fly around, seems to be asking for trouble.
V1.4 is nice I finally got mine tuned so inside it will hover in a 1 cubic foot square without touching the controls for 4-5 second before lightly drifting to one side.

Then again I spent a good part of the day re-wiring the quad and checking alignment, so that might have helped.
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