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Old Mar 10, 2012, 03:43 PM
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United States, DC, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Voltage going to controller doesn't matter.
Why dont you just flash MWC firmware and stop wasting time with the FF firmware?
I can imagine it flies better out of the box than FF-original firmware...
A question on the MW firmware.

The FF controller needs a good IMU calibration for stability. Does the MW have an option for IMU calibration, or is it even needed?
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icedfusion View Post
I would recommend the FreeFlight code for learning any day of the week due to how soft it makes the controls.
Yes, but you can turn down rc expo in multiwii just the same.
actually I don't know it will be THAT much same but I never bothered flying my original freeflight cuz it was too big for my frames. Maybe I'll throw the firmware in one of my afroboards and try it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by machina View Post
A question on the MW firmware.

The FF controller needs a good IMU calibration for stability. Does the MW have an option for IMU calibration, or is it even needed?
You don't need to calibrate anything except accel level.
And without calibrating that, you can still just fly around in rate/gyro only mode.
Read multiwii.com/software for further instructions.
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icedfusion View Post
I showed a friend 2 quads with 2 FF boards on it. One had the MultiWii code and one had the FreeFlight code. The difference was like night and day. However, I would recommend the FreeFlight code for learning any day of the week due to how soft it makes the controls.

Then, once you get better put TimeCops MultiWii firmware on it as it transforms the FreeFlight controller board/

ice.
what are the main differences?

another question, I have a hobbyking radio and the left stick doesnt center well( i mean it always center with a slightly different value) which causes that when i release the stick i cant get a perfect hover( sometimes it drifts to the right, sometimes backwards.. etc) is there anything i can do to get better precision without having to buy a new TX?
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icedfusion View Post
However, I would recommend the FreeFlight code for learning any day of the week due to how soft it makes the controls.
Just for grins, try cranking your D all the way up on the Wii.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 01:39 AM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
yes, the docs are scattered and currently suck. I need to spend a day writing proper docs for a lot of this stuff.
.
If you did that I'd be tempted to re-flash with MultiWii - I'm worried I'll brick my board due to lack of consolidated info. I'd buy you a beer if you do it

step by step idiots guide is what I need.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:09 AM
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timecop,

So the conclusion about FF is as follows:

1. FF with original firmware = sluggish flying device for sightseeing
2. FF with timecop MultiWii-firmware = a proper quad

But my question was: should we just go out buying a cheap Crius with MultiWii in the first place or is there any good reason to buy the FF and flash it with MultiWii instead?
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:14 AM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi I,
OK. Interesting that it rebooted after hitting the ground. I'm considering a different type of failure with that info, so lets check this first with these questions: Have you setup your ESCs properly to NiMh and low or no cutoff, etc? What type of connector are you using for your lipo? I see you are using Dean's for the ET logger. Those have been know to fail. Twist each piece back and forth and side to side when they are connected to see if you can interrupt power. I prefer XT60 connecters because they do not have that potential Dean's connecter problem.

If you are not comfortable with carefully checking the power on the Vregs with a multimeter and not shorting anything, then we can just let it sit powered with the 4s and see if it eventually reboots that way. If you have an IR temp gauge, then that is good. See attached for the location of the test points for the voltages and the Vregs for temperature checks.

Yes the Rx gets its power from all the middle 5v pins on the Rx servo connectors. You only need one connected to the Rx to supply power
Cheers,
Jim
Righto.

took props off and ran for 4 mins at 40% throttle.

3v supply steadily climbed and topped out at 4.02 and the 5V slowly climbed to 6.12 then a couple of mins later, 4.04 and 6.16.

front left motor running 6 degrees hotter than the others (I am swapping all of them later).

regulator running at 35 degrees and the other "thing" running at 50 degrees

all temps Celsius.

Any thoughts?

EDIT: this was on 4S

I am thinking my deans connector on my ET came loose. will download data now - I suspect it was the leadto the ESC's (rather than power in) so wont see a voltage cut off so not too sure it will tell me much.

nothing showing on the ET - just a spike up on volts, presumably when something failed and there was no load.
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Last edited by Impailer; Mar 11, 2012 at 05:24 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:21 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
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With the 3S I have no low down throttle control but I tried the quadcopter with a small nanotech 2200mah 2S and I had proper throttle control.

It may not seem like it in the video but was trying to stay low and not used to the throttle but it was great.

Despite what it looks like I was just lifting off a bit and with controlled landings - well sort of just me the problem.

The throttle was responsive and great and started close to the bottom/start of the throttle movement. That was without the proper curve switch on. With the 3S it just shot up like a rocket and I could not stay near the ground.

So wondered what that means. Do I go for a smaller prop or are the motors too high KV? My details are:

EMax 2215/20 1200kv
Props 10x4.5
ESC Hobbywing Pentium 30A

Flying weight 987grams/35oz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSvdl...1&feature=plcp
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Last edited by Firepower; Mar 11, 2012 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:23 AM
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waay too high kV for those motors.
You want to be at like 8" for that high.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:28 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
waay too high kV for those motors.
You want to be at like 8" for that high.
I am sure I bought the exact parts that was recommended for that frame so as to not have problems.

Guess I better find that chart that includes the weight, motor size and gives what size prop to use.

Anyone know where I can locate the prop chart?
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Last edited by Firepower; Mar 11, 2012 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:56 AM
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Canada, QC, Blainville
Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
With the 3S I have no low down throttle control but I tried the quadcopter with a small nanotech 2200mah 2S and I had proper throttle control.

It may not seem like it in the video but was trying to stay low and not used to the throttle but it was great.

Despite what it looks like I was just lifting off a bit and with controlled landings - well sort of just me the problem.

The throttle was responsive and great and started close to the bottom/start of the throttle movement. That was without the proper curve switch on. With the 3S it just shot up like a rocket and I could not stay near the ground.

So wondered what that means. Do I go for a smaller prop or are the motors too high KV? My details are:

EMax 2215/20 1200kv
Props 10x4.5
ESC Hobbywing Pentium 30A

Flying weight 987grams/35oz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSvdl...1&feature=plcp
I have the RCTimer 2822-14 1200kv motor and using 10x4.5 SF props, i get very good lift and hover is fine, i am on 3cell

here is a 1st flight with gopro and the 2nd one is FPV.

Hobbyking Quadcopter filming with GoPro twin view. (2 min 51 sec)


Quadcopter FPV HK KK Board (4 min 43 sec)
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:22 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
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[QUOTE=bakchos;21000983]I have the RCTimer 2822-14 1200kv motor and using 10x4.5 SF props, i get very good lift and hover is fine, i am on 3cell


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yours is looking great.

I guess you are not using a Futaba 9C.

Wonder if I need Soft Start instead or Normal on my ESC?
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Last edited by Firepower; Mar 11, 2012 at 08:38 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:38 AM
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i fail to see how a transmitter would have anything to do with this.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Canada, QC, Blainville
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[QUOTE=Firepower;21001070]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakchos View Post
I have the RCTimer 2822-14 1200kv motor and using 10x4.5 SF props, i get very good lift and hover is fine, i am on 3cell


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yours is looking great.

I guess you are not using a Futaba 9C.

Wonder if I need Soft Start instead or Normal on my ESC?
I am using a Turnigy 9x flashed with ER9X .

My ESC are in stock form from Hobbyking.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 10:08 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
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[QUOTE=bakchos;21001131]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post

I am using a Turnigy 9x flashed with ER9X .

My ESC are in stock form from Hobbyking.
Strange why I have good low down throttle control with 2S and bad control with 3S. Must be how I am configuring the FF controller?

(If I have not fixed it by September I'll be in Quebec then) Anyone in Brisbane got one of these?
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