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Old Feb 17, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Bristol UK
Joined Oct 2009
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Being "an airplane guy", I've never used the HELI mode in my TX. I also just got a used TX (Futaba 7C) that defaults to HELI mode with different switch types and location in spots. Other than the "smooth" (no rachet) spring on the throttle stick, is there any benefit from the HELI specific programming functions that would have any benefit with a Quad? Since all the main flight controls are handled mainly by the flight control board, I can't see anything right now that wouldn't work just as well in ACRO mode based on my using that mode with a QUAD model in my flight simulator. I'm probably missing something basic, but would rather not find out halfway through setting up my model memory! I couldn't find anything specific about this in the massive MEGA help links that Jesolins maintains. Enlighten me, please!
You would generaly be told Plane mode, and that is good advice, the default model plane mode doesnt usually have any mix's set, and mix's are a big no no for a multicopter. Heli mode has various swash mix's set as default, a reciepe for a desaster if ever i saw one. The only thing the heli mode has that in my opinion is usefull is the throttle curve(which with my TX, i have in plane mode anyway). But hey im only a sport flyer so some people might beg to differ.

Ray
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 05:56 PM
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abriosi's Avatar
Joined Jul 2011
223 Posts
I just made my first flight with FF and god its way better than the KK board for a beginner. The auto level makes flying a joy. I have a couple of questions:

-Should i calibrate the IMU each time i fly?(does that make me loose cofigurantions like throttle range?)
-Do i have to start from a horizontal surface?
-Is there a difference from calibrating the IMU with the comp or controller?
-I have a very well balanced multicopter. Should i tune up PID? will that make a big difference?
-Is it OK to correct the board drift problenm with trim?

Thanks!
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 06:05 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,279 Posts
Hi A,
My answers below in blue.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by abriosi View Post
I just made my first flight with FF and god its way better than the KK board for a beginner. The auto level makes flying a joy. I have a couple of questions:

-Should i calibrate the IMU each time i fly?(does that make me loose cofigurantions like throttle range?) No.
-Do i have to start from a horizontal surface? No.
-Is there a difference from calibrating the IMU with the comp or controller? No.
-I have a very well balanced multicopter. Should i tune up PID? will that make a big difference? If it is flying fine with the defaults, then leave it alone. If you start seeing oscillations with no wind then follow the instrutions in the PID 101 in the first post of this thread. Fly safe!

Thanks!
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 06:06 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
16,637 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteturbo View Post
You would generaly be told Plane mode, and that is good advice, the default model plane mode doesnt usually have any mix's set, and mix's are a big no no for a multicopter. Heli mode has various swash mix's set as default, a reciepe for a desaster if ever i saw one. The only thing the heli mode has that in my opinion is usefull is the throttle curve(which with my TX, i have in plane mode anyway). But hey im only a sport flyer so some people might beg to differ.

Ray
Thanks for the reply... I deleted my original post when I saw I had posted it in the wrong thread! But your comments mirror what I was thinking, so that helps!
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 06:45 PM
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sorry i added this question after your answer

-Is it OK to correct the board drift problenm with trim?

Thanks for the input
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 07:04 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,279 Posts
A,
For the best performance, you should always setup and do an initial test on your multicopters for mechanical neutral stability. Link from the first post: Multicopter Mechanical Dynamic Neutral Stability setup 101 Make sure you have set the FF's ZN RC Calibration done properly by starting your Tx out with neutral trims and subtrims ACRO and no mixing and then adjusting your subtrims to make the sliders as close to zero as required. If all that is well then a few clicks of trim to set a hands off hover in no wind that should last at least 20 seconds is the goal Note: On most Tx's the trim default is 4 steps. That can be set to 1 step for channels 1, 2 and 4 for finer trim tuning on most Tx's and I suggest you do that too.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index

Quote:
Originally Posted by abriosi View Post
sorry i added this question after your answer

-Is it OK to correct the board drift problenm with trim?

Thanks for the input
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 07:17 PM
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well thank you very much
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 07:27 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Amsterdam
Joined Aug 2007
94 Posts
Hi all,

I need some help. I had everything working under 1.22 firmware, but I upgraded to 1.24 to see if there were some improvements (mainly in throttle range).

Upgrade worked, I changed the channel directions on the tx and recalibrated rc in the zns program. After that I recalibrated the esc's with the method Jesolin described using the zns program.

Now when I want to fly I can arm the board with both sticks inward or outward (short beep follows). But when I apply throttle, nothing happens.....

Going back to the zns program when I use the motor testing tab, the motors will spin when I increase the sliders.

What am I doing wrong/ forgetting?
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Last edited by drkdgglr; Feb 18, 2012 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 08:29 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,279 Posts
Hi D,
Are you getting the ESC arming beeps when you first apply power? Did you do the RC Calibration with the Tx trims and subtrims and dual rates at the Tx neutral defaults as required? For V1.24 arming/disarming you do not have to put the throttle full up first, only both sticks together full down and and either to the inside or outside and the green LED will blink. Arming gives a short beep, disarm a longer beep. Note: The motors will not start even after arming sequence if you are still hooked up to the ZN application until you remove the USB dongle connector from the FF fcb and then repower the FF.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by drkdgglr View Post
Hi all,

I need some help. I had everything working under 1.22 firmware, but I upgraded to 1.24 to see if there were some improvements (mainly in throttle range).

Upgrade worked, I changed the channel directions on the tx and recalibrated rc in the zns program. After that I recalibrated the esc's with the method Jesolin described using the zns program.

Now when I want to fly I can arm the board with both sticks inward or outward (short beep follows). But when I apply throttle, nothing happens.....

Going back to the zns program when I use the motor testing tab, the motors will spin when I increase the sliders.

What am I doing wrong/ forgetting?
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 08:32 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Amsterdam
Joined Aug 2007
94 Posts
Are you getting the ESC arming beeps when you first apply power? YES
Did you do the RC Calibration with the Tx trims and subtrims and dual rates at the Tx neutral defaults as required? YES
For V1.24 arming/disarming you do not have to put the throttle full up first, only both sticks together full down and and either to the inside or outside and the green LED will blink. Arming gives a short beep, disarm a longer beep. THAT WORKS AS DESCRIBED
The motors will not start even after arming sequence if you are still hooked up to the ZN application until you repower the FF. I'LL RETRY JUST TO BE SURE

edit: just retried, and still nothing happens on throttle input. Gimbal works though

2nd edit: Just solved the problem. In motor settings I2C was selected instead of PWM. I never selected that myself, so maybe thats the default in 1.24? Unless I accidently checked it during calibration or so....
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 11:39 AM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
817 Posts
Just maidened mine - all I can say is OMG! Unbelievable - for 35 it blows away my HK boards. Simply brilliant,

I'm on 1.22 and only have a small gripe - I get good yaw left, but little yaw right - when it does yaw right, it takes a while to start to turn, whereas a left yaw is instant

Any ideas?

I can see me ordering 2 more boards for my tri and other quad! [assuming I can flash for a tri?]
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Last edited by Impailer; Feb 18, 2012 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkdgglr View Post

2nd edit: Just solved the problem. In motor settings I2C was selected instead of PWM. I never selected that myself, so maybe thats the default in 1.24? Unless I accidently checked it during calibration or so....
When you upgrade firmware, I think the settings get reset. I think this happened on mine going from 1.22 to .24 as well.
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Slovakia
Joined Nov 2010
1,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impailer View Post
I can see me ordering 2 more boards for my tri and other quad! [assuming I can flash for a tri?]
Unfortunately, with original FW only quad in + or X configuration.

Timecop is working on MultiWii code modification to be used on this board but I believe that is work in progress yet.

The goldluckbuy also sells MultiWii boards with gyros and accelerometers so it is similar like this one, while you can set a number of configurations. I ordered one, it's on its way. I also have tri and going to replace my HK board for MultiWii from GLB. It only costs like $44 or so...
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 12:39 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,279 Posts
Hi I,
Glad you got it going
You asked earlier about expo and dual rates. The amount varies by individual flight performance desires, but generally for Noobs set Futaba type TX (-40) and JR tyrp Tx to +40 for ch1, and ch2. If more control and less sensitivity is desired then set about 70% dual rate for ch1, and 2. The yaw is usually OK as it is but if you need more responsiveness then set either expo Futaba positive or JR yaw ch4 negative expo to the amount of control you desire or set a 120% dual rate for yaw ch4.

On your yaw issue that usually points to a mechanical neutral stability setup problem. See: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1581

Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impailer View Post
Just maidened mine - all I can say is OMG! Unbelievable - for 35 it blows away my HK boards. Simply brilliant,

I'm on 1.22 and only have a small gripe - I get good yaw left, but little yaw right - when it does yaw right, it takes a while to start to turn, whereas a left yaw is instant

Any ideas?

I can see me ordering 2 more boards for my tri and other quad! [assuming I can flash for a tri?]
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 12:45 PM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
817 Posts
Thanks Jim

I calibrated with everything at neutral. Wondering if it is worth doing everything again, i.e. ESC range setting/IMU and RC calibration.

If I still have the problem, possibly a bad motor or ESC? Just seems strange it is good in yaw one way and not the other.

Still smiling after flying it, even with that minor annoyance.

I have also just ticked the 3D box to see if that makes a difference.
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