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Old Feb 15, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Does FF support Hexacopter?
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 11:49 PM
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My firmware does. Original doesn't.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 04:29 AM
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JUERGEN_'s Avatar
Deutschland
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very nice !



- > http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post20761581

the new , MWC - NG

BMP085

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Old Feb 16, 2012, 05:19 AM
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Spain
Joined Jan 2010
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noob..so

Quote:
Originally Posted by JUERGEN_ View Post
very nice !



- > http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post20761581

the new , MWC - NG

BMP085

BMP085
?
Saludos,
Jose
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:36 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
3,049 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi FP,
The cut off voltage should be set to low. The PIDs Do not affect motor startup. If they all start within a second then that is OK. Sometimes that is caused by the yaw gyro corrections after powering on especially if it is moved. Bumping the yaw stick left and right before applying throttle can get them starting in unison. Just make sure they are all up and running before applying hover throttle so it does not flip. Did you do the ESC throttle calibrations?
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Thanks for the comments to date. They have really got me almost going.

My problem now is when I arm it the motors are going too fast. I did it this way: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1006

I think the numbers were right the first time I did it and the motors worked right but now when I do it I get -12 on the Throttle and Pitch and 128 on the other two.

I still do not know what I am doing with the Basic Settings - RC Calibration and IMU Calibration.

I can move the sliders in the Basic Settings but not sure what to do. Do I click on the RC Calibration and IMU Calibration both at the same time?

I just did this again: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1006

and got -3 on the Throttle and Pitch and 3 on the other two.

But looks like I forgot about Calibration Pin 5 so have taken it off pin 6 and put it on Pin 5 and done the RC and IMU Calibration again. I guess this switch is suppose to be on at this time.

I unplug the usb and put the plug back on Pin 6 and can arm - get a green light but after about 30 seconds it beeps and goes out. Also I guess all 3 numbers in the four calibration places is no good.

Any help would be appreciated. I think I am nearly there but as you see I really do not know what I am doing.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 11:11 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,404 Posts
FP,
See my answers below in blue.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
Thanks for the comments to date. They have really got me almost going.

My problem now is when I arm it the motors are going too fast. I did it this way: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1006 If it is not hobbling around when you arm then it is what it is since we can't change the motor start up arm speed. You can select the System Tab and set the Start mode to "Start from Static" if you do not like the props spinning when armed.

I think the numbers were right the first time I did it and the motors worked right but now when I do it I get -12 on the Throttle and Pitch and 128 on the other two. I found the resolution affects the size of the data display boxes, so the (-12) is missing the last number, so it was probably (-121 to -129). Increase your graphic resolution if you want to see all the numbers.

I still do not know what I am doing with the Basic Settings - RC Calibration and IMU Calibration. You must do the RC calibration and it sounds like you did. Look at the green LED. **There is no need to hook up ch5 for this. I find it easier to use the ZN application. Just click on the RC Calibration button, get the Green LED. Move all the sticks and all the switches you will use in all possible positions. Put the throttle stick full up. Click Stop. The green LED will go out. Done.

For the IMU calibration. Make sure the model is as perfectly level as possible and no movement or vibrations around it whatsoever. Click on IMU Calibration. The green LED will go on. In about 30 seconds it will go off. Done.


I can move the sliders in the Basic Settings but not sure what to do. Do I click on the RC Calibration and IMU Calibration both at the same time? The sliders move with your Tx sticks only when there is no RC calibration being done. Only do one type of calibration at a time!

I just did this again: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1006

and got -3 on the Throttle and Pitch and 3 on the other two. ?? I am not sure what you are saying here. Do you mean the neutral stick values? If so they will vary depending on how good your Tx/Rx returns to neutral and if it has any jitter. A +/-2 that might vary between those values when you rest your sticks to neutral is OK.

But looks like I forgot about Calibration Pin 5 so have taken it off pin 6 and put it on Pin 5 and done the RC and IMU Calibration again. I guess this switch is suppose to be on at this time. See above **. I recommend that you do not do the ch5 calibration by Tx and only use the ZN application RC Calibration to do this. The Tx switch and removing the ch5 connector will only get Gents in trouble if they leave it connected and then accidentally flip the ch5 switch in the air putting it in RC Calibration mode...

I unplug the usb and put the plug back on Pin 6 and can arm - get a green light but after about 30 seconds it beeps and goes out. Also I guess all 3 numbers in the four calibration places is no good. The FF will not arm if the USB is connected. Reboot the FF after you have hooked it to the ZN or PID application and then it will always arm properly.

Any help would be appreciated. I think I am nearly there but as you see I really do not know what I am doing. Hope that helps
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:38 PM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
827 Posts
Dear All

I am nearly there with my FF board - not flashed r anything, stuck in an Ifly-4 frame.

IMU calibration done and RC calibration done via PC interface.

I can arm it, but have varied throttles from each ESC - I think I need to calibrate the ESC ranges? - I am clueless as to how to do it - I have seen posts about using a KK board to set the range, but that sounds like a right old pain in the backside.

Can anyone post an idiots guide to setting the throttle ranges for the ESC's please?

thanks in advance

FWIW, RC Timer motors(850kv) and 30A Mystery ESC's.

EDIT: it appears like I may had a couple of dud ESC's
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 01:13 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,404 Posts
I,
This post and info on the first post of this thread will help you: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1309
@ C Mod Team,
Any chance you could post the links mentioned in the link above to your first post please?
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impailer View Post
Dear All

I am nearly there with my FF board - not flashed r anything, stuck in an Ifly-4 frame.

IMU calibration done and RC calibration done via PC interface.

I can arm it, but have varied throttles from each ESC - I think I need to calibrate the ESC ranges? - I am clueless as to how to do it - I have seen posts about using a KK board to set the range, but that sounds like a right old pain in the backside.

Can anyone post an idiots guide to setting the throttle ranges for the ESC's please?

thanks in advance

FWIW, RC Timer motors(850kv) and 30A Mystery ESC's.

EDIT: it appears like I may had a couple of dud ESC's
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 01:29 PM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
827 Posts
Thanks Jim
I put the ESC's directly on the RX and get lumpy throttle response from each of them (separately tested). Changed timing to low/med/high and still have the problem. Looks like 2 of the 4 ESC's were delivered dodgy.
I note your link - I have the FF board and ESC's all soldered to one distribution board - is that a bad thing to do?

Time to look for some new ESC's........

Can you mix and match ESC's, or is that a big no-no?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 01:47 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,404 Posts
Hi I,
Check the ESC section in the Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index for multicopter ESC recommendations. If you can DIY then HobbyWing or ZTW ESCs are decent using SimonK fast PWM firmware: Nek's SimonK fast PWM firmware thread Ken in the US at www.quadroufo.com or timecop at www.abusemark.com in Japan both sell ESCs with the SimonK firmware already installed.
A distribution board is OK if done correctly.
Cheers,
Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by Impailer View Post
Thanks Jim
I put the ESC's directly on the RX and get lumpy throttle response from each of them (separately tested). Changed timing to low/med/high and still have the problem. Looks like 2 of the 4 ESC's were delivered dodgy.
I note your link - I have the FF board and ESC's all soldered to one distribution board - is that a bad thing to do?

Time to look for some new ESC's........

Can you mix and match ESC's, or is that a big no-no?
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Last edited by jesolins; Feb 16, 2012 at 06:15 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 01:52 PM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
827 Posts
Thanks again Jim - I've stuck an order in for 4 x 30A RCtimer ESC's - they work fine on my old quad and Tri. I will have a read of the thread you pointed me to, but my expertise is limited to being able to flash a KK board and that's it I'm afraid - more than that and I get lost!

Gimme a week for the new ESCs to turn up and I will post a video when I get it going......

regards
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 04:38 PM
FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
Hampshire, United Kingdom
Joined Jun 2005
827 Posts
awww, crap, my bad.

After a lot of hair-pulling and swearing, I finally twigged that my problem was some poor soldering on the motor wires - not enough enamel scraped off before I soldered them in the bullets.

Good news is I have sorted the problem. Bad news is that I ordered 4 x new ESC's! I suppose its an excuse to build something else....
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 05:50 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi I,
Check the ESC section in the Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index for multicopter ESC recommendations. If you can DIY then HobbyWing or ZTW ESCs are decent using SimonK fast PWM firmware:Nek's SimonK fast PWM firmware thread Ken in the US at www.quadroufo or timecop at www.abusemark.com in Japan both sell ESCs with the SimonK firmware already installed.
A distribution board is OK if done correctly.
Cheers,
Jim
Jim, the first two links in your post for the ESC firmware replacement are broken. But I have to ask is this REALLY necessary with the FF board with say, a standard HobbyWing controller, if a person is not looking for more extreme sport maneuverability?

Do you have any suggestions for a distribution board? I've looked and the sizes of the boards different a lot, and most don't give the corner hole spacing. Are they all standard (e.g. 45mm)? Two of the three ESC boards at GLB are only rated for 25A, which is low for 4 motors unless you never go past a hover for very long. I'm inclined to just wire a four-way splitter and be done with it. What am I missing?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 06:26 PM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
3,049 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
FP,
See my answers below in blue.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Those comments were brilliant and I have gotten it going. Thank you.

I take things slow so as not to smash them.

I put the props on and the power comes on VERY quickly. Can we use exponential or something?

I can only put the power on for a quarter of a second or it will just flip over and I guess a lot of people smash it doing that. So do I need to get the motors more even? The motors start at the same time. I just held it in my hand and put on one click of power on the TX and it was SO powerful.

Maybe have to slow the power down at the start. The prop direction and props in correct position (left and right ones) and flying X configuration. I think the switch should be off for what I am doing. (not 3D)

Now it is flyable with a bit of trimming but I would have taken a long time without your help. Thanks again.


EDIT: Just thought I need to start trimming the TX but would be good to slow down the fast motor coming on . Guess that is right.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 06:59 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,404 Posts
Hi Tom,
I fixed the links in my post. Thanks. All multicopter boards will fly OK with the multicopter recommended ESCs. The SimonK firmware will provide better multicopter performance in stability and proper setup. I build "spiders" for my wiring harnesses using 16g-18g for my 1.4kg multicopter builds. That GLB distro board is a bit light in the amps if you are going to build a multicopter that weighs more than about 800g with motors and ESCs that would pull more than that at hover. BTW Here is a multicopter performance calculator by eCalc: http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm?ecalc Also see the Wiring info section in the Mega Index for examples of wiring harnesses.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Jim, the first two links in your post for the ESC firmware replacement are broken. But I have to ask is this REALLY necessary with the FF board with say, a standard HobbyWing controller, if a person is not looking for more extreme sport maneuverability?

Do you have any suggestions for a distribution board? I've looked and the sizes of the boards different a lot, and most don't give the corner hole spacing. Are they all standard (e.g. 45mm)? Two of the three ESC boards at GLB are only rated for 25A, which is low for 4 motors unless you never go past a hover for very long. I'm inclined to just wire a four-way splitter and be done with it. What am I missing?
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