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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:30 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Originally Posted by Dark_Lord View Post
I am willing to trade the 2 brand new (old style) battery's for 2 slightly used new style battery's even up if anyone is willing.
Sounds like a fair deal If I lived close to you I'd have taken you up on it, but I don't think you're in Bavaria by the looks of things
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:34 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Originally Posted by MWShelton View Post
I ordered a new connector V911 from Bangood just because I have so many of the battery's. I fly Ultra Micro Planes, probably have 20 batteries.
Have fun with it. Bet you'll end up buying more batteries by the time they're all used up ... and probably more helis too
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Blow (hard) on the tail rotor. It should spin fast and take a while to stop.
If you can't make it spin, or it stops immediately, it's probably binding.

Check for dust/lint. Check that the rotor isn't pushed on to far and binding against the motor.
Consider adding a single drop of light sewing machine type oil to the shaft where it enters the motor.
Hey Rick. Everything's spinning freely so no probs there. Think I'll go get myself some sewing machine oil, thanks for the tip.

Tigg
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
SP270 swash has the guide pin in the wrong place for original V911 corters.
It should fit the new Y911, but then it's already got the fisheye and CF shaft.

The "fisheye" has two guide pins, so works with old/new corters.
Oh shjt, did I order the wrong swash? I ordered a sp270 swash for my v911. My v911 has "copter" and not "corter" on the fuselage. But my v911 has metal main shaft, not CF. So the fisheye swash wont fit?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 03:52 AM
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wobbles

Well after about a month or more of taking abuse, heli #1 has developed a "wobble" when hovering. Also flies off at a 20-30 tangent to the right when I give forward elevator.

Bent main shaft? ... or does it sound like some other cause?

Thanks guys
Tigg
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricomon View Post
Don't cut down the tail rotor. You need that thrust to counteract the torque of the main rotor. If you cut down the tail rotor, the tail motor will have to work harder to hold the heading, thus shortening the motor's life. It would only slow right turns, anyway. The resistors are definitely the way to go.

Rick
Resistors? Can someone direct me/explain the mod which slows down turns with the stock TX?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Well after about a month or more of taking abuse, heli #1 has developed a "wobble" when hovering. Also flies off at a 20-30 tangent to the right when I give forward elevator.

Bent main shaft? ... or does it sound like some other cause?

Thanks guys
Tigg
Lots of things can cause this. Unbalanced blades and/ or flybar being probably the most likely issue.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 09:24 AM
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what do I need to convert an old style battery v911 to use the new white plug batteries?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Sounds like a fair deal If I lived close to you I'd have taken you up on it, but I don't think you're in Bavaria by the looks of things
Im in Louisiana USA. the wife just placed them up on ebay for 7 days (over priced aff! she dont know the meaning of a quick "get rid of um"sale) but if anyone wants to swap im up for it after the 7 days are up. less i can fig a way to modify them with the new style some how.

EDIT:
Scratch that, they just sold 2 minutes ago.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:47 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Originally Posted by subpixel View Post
what do I need to convert an old style battery v911 to use the new white plug batteries?
new style landing skid soldered to your "old style" PCB (board) ...

... or you solder a plug with wires on and use airtime mCPX aftermarket skids (that is what I would do IF I could solder ... [if you would consider this, you might as well consider airtime mSR skids and solder on an mSR style plug - this would provide you access to the most extensive "reservoir" of possible replacement batteries ...)
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Lord View Post
Im in Louisiana USA. the wife just placed them up on ebay for 7 days (over priced aff! she dont know the meaning of a quick "get rid of um"sale) but if anyone wants to swap im up for it after the 7 days are up. less i can fig a way to modify them with the new style some how.

EDIT:
Scratch that, they just sold 2 minutes ago.
Sounds like your wife knows what she is doing. Don't let her get mad at your helis. What part of Louisiana? I'm in Arkansas.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Santley View Post
Sounds like your wife knows what she is doing. Don't let her get mad at your helis. What part of Louisiana? I'm in Arkansas.
Lake Charles. =)
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Lots of things can cause this. Unbalanced blades and/ or flybar being probably the most likely issue.
Cheers stonecutter, got blades & flybars aplenty so I'll give it a go. Don't see it being the flybar though as both weights are still in place. I've lost a weight before and that just made it completely unflyable... I've only got a "wee wobble"
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:57 PM
Scotsman in Germany
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Originally Posted by GiantScale View Post
Resistors? Can someone direct me/explain the mod which slows down turns with the stock TX?
I put "resistor mod" in the search for you... the rest you have to do yourself
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/searc...resistor%20mod
At least it's only 8 pages instead of the whole thread

Cheers
Tigg
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricomon View Post
Don't cut down the tail rotor. You need that thrust to counteract the torque of the main rotor. If you cut down the tail rotor, the tail motor will have to work harder to hold the heading, thus shortening the motor's life. It would only slow right turns, anyway. The resistors are definitely the way to go.

Rick
Hey Ricomon

just trying to understand something here. I recently heard that if you put on a larger tail rotor it'll slow down the RPMs , making the motor work harder to try and keep the torque and possibly shortening motor life.

Does this mean that the motors are generally optimised for the size of rotor they are supposed to have, and any mod - either smaller or larger - will have an adverse effect on the motor?
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