SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Sep 10, 2012, 06:42 AM
Don't Drink & Fly
TapouT21's Avatar
United States, OH
Joined Jun 2012
346 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
Appears that China Post Air Mail has a large backup during the busy season and Aliexpress may be canceling orders that can't make the 30 day delivery deadline.

Aliexpress 'security reasons' means the conditions of sale can not be met.

Likely all orders from all Chinese vendors are in the backlog.

HongKong Post Air Mail may be the shipping option that works.
My order from miracle-mart just shipped today via Honk-Kong Post so that is working ok.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasen40 View Post
My new BNF has the new flybar also,I have had less strikes with it.She seems a bit more agile.Plus I think the weights may actually stay put this time
I always will add a dab of glue to the weights (and will even when I end up with some of the new ones). Not worth a weight flying into someones eye.
TapouT21 is offline Find More Posts by TapouT21
Last edited by TapouT21; Sep 10, 2012 at 07:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Sep 10, 2012, 07:18 AM
Registered User
Chile, Araucanía, Temuco
Joined Jul 2012
28 Posts
My case. I live in Chile. My orders from Miracle-Mart always arrive at my home in about 10 - 12 days. My orders from Banggood arrive in about 40 - 45 days (same delay in Dealextreme and Focalprice). I have not bought in other stores, but in my experience, free shipping = nails massacred.
UltraGore is offline Find More Posts by UltraGore
Last edited by UltraGore; Sep 10, 2012 at 07:23 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 09:29 AM
Registered User
Tucson, Az
Joined Feb 2007
7,696 Posts
We all buy from China based vendors for simple reason, good deals. The wait game is major set back. I have a new bird coming from china and been waiting over three weeks. Also other parts orders coming and who knows when they will show. Just buy extras and order wisely to keep orders down. V911 flyers do get a V929 as you will not regret it. Bang for the buck hands down best deal going.
dankar04 is online now Find More Posts by dankar04
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 09:33 AM
Registered User
Poland, Śląskie, Bielsko-Biala
Joined Jan 2012
634 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankar04 View Post
V911 flyers do get a V929 as you will not regret it. Bang for the buck hands down best deal going.
+1

Get V929, some 600 mAh lipos, spare booms and enjoooy
shafter is offline Find More Posts by shafter
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 09:57 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,825 Posts
Starting work on fitting a V911 RX board into a Bravo SX body

Hi all,

I've been interested in fitting a V911 RX into a NE Bravo SX body because I love the scale look and I want an MD500E I can fly with my Turnigy 9x. Here are the posts that I took my inspiration from:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2304
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2335
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2336

So, I've picked jlk69's brain a little bit and finally I got all of my parts and started work on it last night. Everything went together fairly well, but I see what jlk69 means about needing to trim some plastic. Here are some of the things that I did and discovered:

- I first tried trimming the plastic housing around the servos on the RX board. I clipped some off but found that I had opened up two "windows" into the gearing of the servo. I guess so long as I don't fly in a lot of dust or something, that won't cause too many problems, but I'm not a fan of that. Maybe I can cover that with some electrical tape or something...

- I haven't trimmed the plastic motor holder yet but I might do that. I was able to use the longer screws that I use to attach the blades to each other as the screws that connected the RX board to the mainframe. There's still some gap between the frame and the board but the board is relatively secure (for now). Trimming the mainframe I think will make sense.

- I used the Bravo SX servo arms. As you say, they're MUCH longer than they need to be. What I ended up doing was cutting them off at the thread end and leaving maybe 4-5 threads left at the end. Then I screwed the plastic bits onto them as far as I could (I have no more adjustment now...) and put them on. I think I'll have to get another set, cut those off at the other end, and then create new bends like jlk69 did.

- Putting the servo links at the longer of the two holes of the servo horn allowed me to easily bind the swashplate against the mainshaft long before I got to the maximum throw of the servo. I then put them links on the inner set of holes and that helped keep me from binding. However, I'm not happy with the current adjustment as the links are still too long and I don't have an easy way of shortening them. I'll probably want to put the links back on the outer holes and then jlk69 is right about needing to cut the canopy holes a little bit to fix that because when the canopy is buttoned up, it's too tight of a fit!

- The rest of the tuning will be done with my Turnigy 9x (er9x) which will let me set the center, min, and max positions for each of the servos. Now I think I've got an idea of what it's like to set up a larger helicopter that you build from a kit! It's all about the fine adjustments, I think.

- I don't know if this is going to be an issue or not, but in my testing I got VERY short battery life. Now, I didn't have it in the air a whole lot but I think i might have only gotten about 2 minutes of airtime between all my testing before the battery voltage was too low to keep it in the air (Turnigy Nanotech 160). Might be the battery getting a little tired, might be that my testing was more extensive than I thought, maybe I need to lube the bearings, and maybe I have some other problem...

- Finally, I don't think I need to worry about the "front" set of screws that jlk69 connected with an extra piece of plastic:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post22468157

The front of the canopy was pretty tight with all of the positions where you insert the tabs into the holes. I did buy the little LED "lamp" thing even though I don't have any intention of using it right now and so I could put that in there with the screws but I don't think I'll need to.


So, now directly referencing jlk69, what's your battery life look like? I modded my skids by removing the little plastic insert that holds the metal contacts for the Nine Eagles batteries and the Parkflyer/Eflite-style batteries slide nicely into that spot now.


I'll post some pix later as I do more work on it.
RoboHeli is online now Find More Posts by RoboHeli
RCG Plus Member
Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
479 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TapouT21 View Post
...I always will add a dab of glue to the weights (and will even when I end up with some of the new ones). Not worth a weight flying into someones eye.
Or through a double pane french door...
That's what mine hit. Didn't break it, but made a real loud scary sound.
Could have been expensive enough that my wife would have cut off the copter purchases forever

I pried all my weights out and glued them in.
RicksterRC is offline Find More Posts by RicksterRC
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:09 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
479 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
...I was able to use the longer screws that I use to attach the blades to each other...
Your post reminded me.

Has anyone found a source for a complete V911 screw kit?

Some of the screws seem kind of unique and you don't get spares with the spare parts (i.e. the blades don't come with new blade screws if you lose one).
RicksterRC is offline Find More Posts by RicksterRC
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2012
1,594 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Your post reminded me.

Has anyone found a source for a complete V911 screw kit?

Some of the screws seem kind of unique and you don't get spares with the spare parts (i.e. the blades don't come with new blade screws if you lose one).
Maybe NE Solo Pro screws work :
http://www.myrcmart.com/ne402328021a...et-p-4290.html
http://www.focalprice.com/YO310B/Ori...Set_Black.html

Or cheaper from 9958 ($1.29):
http://www.focalprice.com/YE762S/SAN...es_Silver.html
mystman is online now Find More Posts by mystman
Last edited by mystman; Sep 10, 2012 at 01:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:41 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,825 Posts
I haven't found a V911 screw set yet. I asked MyRCMart about it but they said WLToys would not likely be releasing one (they called to ask). I guess it's just BNFs or dead helis from ebay for spare screws for now!

The one screw that's really hard to find is the one that goes into the flybar. I once tried building a V911 from parts and was able to use a BravoSX screw set for most things EXCEPT for the flybar screw! It's threaded only at the end and is otherwise smooth where the flybar pivots. So irritating!
RoboHeli is online now Find More Posts by RoboHeli
RCG Plus Member
Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:44 PM
Don't Drink & Fly
TapouT21's Avatar
United States, OH
Joined Jun 2012
346 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Your post reminded me.

Has anyone found a source for a complete V911 screw kit?

Some of the screws seem kind of unique and you don't get spares with the spare parts (i.e. the blades don't come with new blade screws if you lose one).
I have not yet and asked vendors who still cannot get them, I was going to order a spare screw set from the Helios and see how many match if any but have been busy and keep forgetting.
TapouT21 is offline Find More Posts by TapouT21
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 02:56 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Has anyone found a source for a complete V911 screw kit?
Changing to new version swashplates and carbon main shafts should have added some screws. On the ones with Delrin main gears, you can grab extra screws from the ring collars as the thicker Delrin main gears should allow the main shaft to drop without disengaging the pinion.

Then you have gobs of extra screw that can be robbed from the dual-charger and transmitter.

Reminds me, when putting screws back into plastic, turn the screw backwards (out) until you hear a click as the screw finds the original threads, then turn the screw in. Avoids stripping the plastic threads.
Ribble is offline Find More Posts by Ribble
Last edited by Ribble; Sep 10, 2012 at 03:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 03:48 PM
RC Aircraft Junkie
jlk69's Avatar
USA, CA, Chula Vista
Joined Sep 2004
883 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Hi all,

I've been interested in fitting a V911 RX into a NE Bravo SX body because I love the scale look and I want an MD500E I can fly with my Turnigy 9x. Here are the posts that I took my inspiration from:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2304
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2335
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2336

So, I've picked jlk69's brain a little bit and finally I got all of my parts and started work on it last night. Everything went together fairly well, but I see what jlk69 means about needing to trim some plastic. Here are some of the things that I did and discovered:

- I first tried trimming the plastic housing around the servos on the RX board. I clipped some off but found that I had opened up two "windows" into the gearing of the servo. I guess so long as I don't fly in a lot of dust or something, that won't cause too many problems, but I'm not a fan of that. Maybe I can cover that with some electrical tape or something...

- I haven't trimmed the plastic motor holder yet but I might do that. I was able to use the longer screws that I use to attach the blades to each other as the screws that connected the RX board to the mainframe. There's still some gap between the frame and the board but the board is relatively secure (for now). Trimming the mainframe I think will make sense.

- I used the Bravo SX servo arms. As you say, they're MUCH longer than they need to be. What I ended up doing was cutting them off at the thread end and leaving maybe 4-5 threads left at the end. Then I screwed the plastic bits onto them as far as I could (I have no more adjustment now...) and put them on. I think I'll have to get another set, cut those off at the other end, and then create new bends like jlk69 did.

- Putting the servo links at the longer of the two holes of the servo horn allowed me to easily bind the swashplate against the mainshaft long before I got to the maximum throw of the servo. I then put them links on the inner set of holes and that helped keep me from binding. However, I'm not happy with the current adjustment as the links are still too long and I don't have an easy way of shortening them. I'll probably want to put the links back on the outer holes and then jlk69 is right about needing to cut the canopy holes a little bit to fix that because when the canopy is buttoned up, it's too tight of a fit!

- The rest of the tuning will be done with my Turnigy 9x (er9x) which will let me set the center, min, and max positions for each of the servos. Now I think I've got an idea of what it's like to set up a larger helicopter that you build from a kit! It's all about the fine adjustments, I think.

- I don't know if this is going to be an issue or not, but in my testing I got VERY short battery life. Now, I didn't have it in the air a whole lot but I think i might have only gotten about 2 minutes of airtime between all my testing before the battery voltage was too low to keep it in the air (Turnigy Nanotech 160). Might be the battery getting a little tired, might be that my testing was more extensive than I thought, maybe I need to lube the bearings, and maybe I have some other problem...

- Finally, I don't think I need to worry about the "front" set of screws that jlk69 connected with an extra piece of plastic:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post22468157

The front of the canopy was pretty tight with all of the positions where you insert the tabs into the holes. I did buy the little LED "lamp" thing even though I don't have any intention of using it right now and so I could put that in there with the screws but I don't think I'll need to.


So, now directly referencing jlk69, what's your battery life look like? I modded my skids by removing the little plastic insert that holds the metal contacts for the Nine Eagles batteries and the Parkflyer/Eflite-style batteries slide nicely into that spot now.


I'll post some pix later as I do more work on it.
Yeah, battery life was a problem at first as I was using a used main motor. After putting in a brand new motor I get between 3:30 to 4 min depending on which battery I use. I have 5 stock Nine Eagels Bravo SX 150mHa batterys that I use for two Bravo SX's and my v911. Great batterys!! They have many cycles on them but they are still strong. I recommend then highly.
jlk69 is offline Find More Posts by jlk69
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 04:14 PM
Registered User
United States, PA, Blairsville
Joined Jun 2012
30 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Your post reminded me.

Has anyone found a source for a complete V911 screw kit?

Some of the screws seem kind of unique and you don't get spares with the spare parts (i.e. the blades don't come with new blade screws if you lose one).
You could try the solo pro 260a screw set. I bought them and haven't had any problems with anything not fitting the v911. Seems like they are all interchangeable.
edan978 is offline Find More Posts by edan978
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 08:24 PM
Flying mostly pop-wings now.
ashtodust2000's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Dec 2011
284 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UB6uJ View Post
ok, and yeah, that is why i would want 4 models stored in memory. each of these v911 fly a bit different.
I use 1 model for all 6 of my v911s and it works great, I fly mostly outdoors, but i always adjust my aservo rods for a good hover indoors.
ashtodust2000 is offline Find More Posts by ashtodust2000
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 10, 2012, 09:21 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2012
204 Posts
Installed the Helios flybar today. It fit tight in the head so I used my dremel to clearance at the fulcrum point . The linkages were also too tight so I used some 600 grit sand paper to gently work down the pivot balls on the flybar. Problem I am now encountering is a fairly pronounced wobble that wasn't present before... or very subtle prior to the modification. I will take it for an outdoor test if I can work out the wobble. So far there is more pain than gain on this one.

Edit: I replaced the main shaft and gear out of a hunch. Now it hovers beautifully but I will have to wait till tomorrow for an outdoor test. Appears this may reduce if not eliminate flybar strikes due to how short it is. Hope the weather holds!
Killer Bee is offline Find More Posts by Killer Bee
Last edited by Killer Bee; Sep 10, 2012 at 10:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product Jiuchon 9C002, a Solo Pro clone? SoloProFan Micro Helis 103 Feb 29, 2012 02:24 PM
Discussion Interesting Solo Pro? Clone gordonzo Micro Helis 46 Nov 30, 2011 03:15 AM
Question Which 100 sized heli after Solo Pro? Tuc Micro Helis 16 Jun 13, 2011 01:52 PM
Sold $100 !NEW ARF Storm 250 (Trex Clone) With Align Upgrades, Tons of Extras! $100!! RChelisrule Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 May 31, 2011 12:26 AM