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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:16 PM
Yo R Wee Too Lo
United States, OH, Cleveland
Joined Oct 2011
895 Posts
i seasrched and searched and could not find the procedure to bind the turnigy 9x to my v911 even though i remember resding it many times. I did all the settings according to daryoon. I turn on the tx and thrn plug in the helli batt it flashes fast then stops then flashes medium. never binds. please don't be too hard on me
tonytester
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:24 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonytester View Post
i seasrched and searched and could not find the procedure to bind the turnigy 9x to my v911 even though i remember resding it many times. I did all the settings according to daryoon. I turn on the tx and thrn plug in the helli batt it flashes fast then stops then flashes medium. never binds. please don't be too hard on me
tonytester
I thought to bind a heli to a tx you always have to turn on the heli first ???
- and then the TX, if necessary with a bind button pushed or similar ...
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:35 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
By boosting it, then regulating it to 3.6V (or whatever), it'll have a much more stable voltage and perhaps give a more uniform gyro response throughout the battery.

Anyone notice the yellow doing that better?
My Yellow V911's are rock solid stable the whole flight.

Going blind tracing the micro-minature circuit. Could also be a negative voltage generator. Can't understand why this Yellow flew normal only once after I shorted the missing wire coil. Coil was on front side of PCB and diodes are on tail side of PCB.

There are at least three versions of the Yellow V911. None of mine have a diode front upper left nor connectors.

2012/05/24 - Mine are all this version. First Yellow is more complicated to bind than the newer ones of same version.
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Last edited by Ribble; Aug 28, 2012 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:37 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Depends. Putting some heli will go into bind mode if it doesn't see the TX. For the v911, v929 and 9958, it has a brief period it looks for a TX in bind mode. Most newbies will miss that window.

So the surest way is to put the T9x into bind mode first. Then plug the battery into the heli. You will see the LED change from a rapid blink to slow blink within a sec or two. That signifies that the two has paired up. Now, the T9x needs it's power cycled to kick it out of bind mode. However, it's unsafe to power off the TX without powering off the heli first, so it's advisable to cycle power to both.

Turn on the TX first, then insert battery. The heli will reconnect to the TX it last bound to.

It's a very easy process. I try to dilute the steps so it's foolproof. If you're still haven't issues, then it's likely an issue elsewhere.

Flashing fast, then stop, then flashes medium means the T9x isn't in bind mode.

To put the T9x in bind mode:
  1. T9x off.
  2. Hold bind button on the back as you turn on the power to the TX.
  3. Let go of the bind button once you see the info on the LCD screen.

For those with er9x firmware...you must clear any warnings and splash screens before you release the bind button.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:41 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Jul 2012
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I've seen several recent posts that mention using Turnigy Nano's in their v911 (not to mention charging on the Accucel). I thought that they fit the Trex, and needed the connector/skids to be modded to fit properly?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:44 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,572 Posts
I think most people solder on a mini jst connector so they can use the eflite/parkzone style nanotech.

@harmony,
Are the motors hot?

Try putting a drop of oil down the motor shaft. It will lube the bushing there. Work it in by rotating the shaft and gentle pushing it in and out. Remove any excess. You should get about 5min with the 120mah. 2min30sec flight means something is wrong to burn off all that excess power.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:57 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayDoc View Post
I've seen several recent posts that mention using Turnigy Nano's in their v911 (not to mention charging on the Accucel). I thought that they fit the Trex, and needed the connector/skids to be modded to fit properly?
Have 20 or so "Turnigy nano-tech 130mah 1S 25C Lipo Pack (Nine Eagles style - T2 Twin Rail for older models)" and one 160mah.

None of them fit correctly into V911 battery holder and need to be held against the battery holder contacts with a rubber band.

However, none of my Turnigy nano-tech batteries perform anywhere near the V911 stock batteries, so only one of my V911's is still set up to use Turnigy nano-tech batteries.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:37 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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I modded both of my V911s to use EFlite connectors and I fly my Turnigy Nanotech 160s. I have a 4 minute timer set up so that when it goes off I have enough time to bring my heli from wherever it is in the sky back safely to earth before I start having low battery problems.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Have you tried taking the main board out of a working one and putting it in one with a short flight time? That would tell you whether or not it's the board or the bird. Would take a little soldering to disconnect the motors. I would do it if I had another but I just have the one.
I'm not willing to put in that kind of time and risk 2 broken helis. I thought about just buying a new board, but a new BNF is just a few more dollars...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
I tore mine down today to check the main gear, shaft, and bearings and it all seems OK. The head has a slight wobble but that has always been there (could be worse now, I don't know). One interesting thing I found today is that after only getting about 3 minutes flight time I was able to hover a couple inches off the floor at full throttle for a good 2 minutes. That's definitely not normal.
sounds like the failing 'speed controller' problem I've got. It's like there's a voltage drop to something above the battery's normal 'discharge cliff' so instead of good flight until battery discharge, you get a few minutes of flight, and then a long dribble at the end.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:36 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
Have 20 or so "Turnigy nano-tech 130mah 1S 25C Lipo Pack (Nine Eagles style - T2 Twin Rail for older models)" and one 160mah.

However, none of my Turnigy nano-tech batteries perform anywhere near the V911 stock batteries, so only one of my V911's is still set up to use Turnigy nano-tech batteries.
Thank you! In that case I'll stick with the 'normal' v911 150s from FC - they seem to have more 'oomph' than my last batch of 145s. Is the 'twin rail' style that far behind the micro-jst type batteries in performance? I have some of the jst's for a Champ, and they seem to deliver some decent power...
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Last edited by JayDoc; Aug 28, 2012 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razholio View Post
sounds like the failing 'speed controller' problem I've got. It's like there's a voltage drop to something above the battery's normal 'discharge cliff' so instead of good flight until battery discharge, you get a few minutes of flight, and then a long dribble at the end.
That's what you'd get if something was dragging down one of the motors.

Bad motor.
Bad bearing on main shaft
Bent shaft rubbing the frame (between the bearings)
Bad swash.
Tail rotor rubbing motor.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:02 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
I think most people solder on a mini jst connector so they can use the eflite/parkzone style nanotech.
Gotcha. I have some E-flites, a few Tenergys and the Hyperion parallel charger for my Champ, but I'd be hard pressed to decide which of my (15? 16?) v911s to add the connectors to. Most are already in various states of blade/flybar/paddle swaps, new swash/shaft/gear changes, etc. Does the performance justify modding, or is it more for convenience of already-owned batteries? (personally, I just like modding things just to do it...)

I now have a TON of various 'v911' style batteries, and it may be easier to just buy a few more chargers for them.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:05 PM
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LittleMo's Avatar
United States, VA
Joined Dec 2006
1,494 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
That's what you'd get if something was dragging down one of the motors.

Bad motor.
Bad bearing on main shaft
Bent shaft rubbing the frame (between the bearings)
Bad swash.
Tail rotor rubbing motor.
I mentioned this before but if I give a little bit of right rudder the main motor will suddenly get more power and lift the heli up. At lease for a few seconds, then it eventually loses power again. I can hear the main motor spin up and gain a lot of RPM when this happens.

On a new battery it now toggles between "normal" power and barely enough to fly and I can hear the main motor changing pitch even though I'm not moving the throttle. Like razholio, I think it's something on the main board that is no longer consistently delivering power. If it were a bad bearing or something I would think it would be draining the battery but that's not the case. The battery is drained maybe 30% before it's unable to fly.

However, I have been considering that it still could be a motor. I think razholio changed his though and it didn't make a difference.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Micro Buzzer's Avatar
Joined Oct 2009
138 Posts
Low flight times

For those with low flight times. No one mentioned to change or check the wire to the battery. It is very small and if there is any fraying then it is even worse. I changed the wire on mine and got better flight times.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:12 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Do you have a picture of your bracing setup?

I've been having a rash of broken tail booms and haven't figured out if bracing would help or hurt.
Maybe the flex at the main frame helps absorb things and a rigid bracing would create a new stress point?
Broke about five tail booms, some more than once, fixed with paper towel strips and Superglue.

Most break in the middle, one at motor end, one at frame end.

Instead of the whole tail boom flexing, adding supports will concentrate the breaking force to a small area, allowing the tail boom to break easier and more often. And if tail boom is made double strength the whole length, then the frame will break instead or motor bracket will break off..
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