These are the paddles I used:

http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=8162

Paddles help greatly in windy conditions because the wind pushes down on the paddle closest to the direction of the wind, helping you head into it in addition to the aforementioned benefits.

Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill

Erd, it's for the same reasons in your TX protocol thread. I'm don't like having 15 million different types of chargers or batteries just like I don't like having 15 million transmitters. I have a bunch of perfectly-fine E-flight lipos. I don't need to buy any more.

I'm going to solder on the E-flight connector (at least one for now) and convert the stock Beetle battery to E-flight, that way I can still use the stock battery and charge it with my v911 USB charger. I'll see how long the Beetle will run on just a single V911 battery.

I really don't mind swapping out batteries. It takes only a minute to do and lets your motors cool down if doing back-to-back flights.

Well, I dont/cant solder ... so what I am using in such a case is this:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...y+Adapter+Lead

Hi

I need to replace the tail motor. I do not know how to disassemble the tail. Does anyone have a diagram showing the procedure?

thanks

Originally Posted by fennecman

Hi

I need to replace the tail motor. I do not know how to disassemble the tail. Does anyone have a diagram showing the procedure?

thanks

Threading the wires from the new motor through the tail boom without removing the tail boom is usually difficult to impossible.

The tail boom (on all but the yellow copters) is glued in place.
It can be removed with CA remover, but it's not easy.
If it is removed, it needs to be replaced (the CA remover softens the carbon fiber resin and destroys the boom).

Even if you do manage to thread the new wires through the tailboom, it's tough to solder them to the RX board. The pads are very small.

Your best bet is to cut the old wires near the old motor, and pull the motor out of the motor holder.
Cut the new motor's wires about an inch from the motor.
Push it into the motor holder.
Strip the wires and solder them. cover with tape or heatshrink.
Most of us recommend gluing the motor to the holder so that it can't rotate or fall out.

Originally Posted by Xermalk

Hello everyone
Im about to take the plunge on going from a "inster your own brand here" rx037 coaxial to the V911.
Before im wondering what i should get for it.

Right now im looking at a rtf kit and a spare yellow one for indoors only

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Ne...9-p-36779.html

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-V9...f-p-46299.html

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-5-...y-p-46387.html

Is there anything else i should consider buying for some easy recommended mods or simmilar? Like flybar mods so it wont hit the canopy?

Also, would it be possible to wire 2 battery's together so you get 300/240 mAh for flying (i know ill loose maneuverability from the increased weight)

Tell ya what, get a 911 and fly it with the regular stock battery for 4.5 - 5 minutes. Don't just hover around but get to the point where you're doing nice circuits and figure 8's. Do those for 4.5 - 5 minutes without a stop. Now when you land the 911, and I really do this just out of curiosity, kiss the tail motor and feel how warm it is. You start pushin that poor little hummer more than 5 minutes or so alot and you'l replace it too soon.

Originally Posted by Mag718

While I appreciate any kind of mod, what is the purpose of the paddles over the weights ? I've been through the whole thread, while I was waiting for mine to get here, but must have forgotten about it ??

And I wish I had folks closer to me to fly with like you Philly guys !!

Philly Guys.. there are 2 of us! Better to move to AZ, CA, Canada, Aust. or the Netherlands. E2 and I are in nowhere land when it comes to heli's in this group.

Originally Posted by BD Murdock

Tell ya what, get a 911 and fly it with the regular stock battery for 4.5 - 5 minutes. Don't just hover around but get to the point where you're doing nice circuits and figure 8's. Do those for 4.5 - 5 minutes without a stop. Now when you land the 911, and I really do this just out of curiosity, kiss the tail motor and feel how warm it is. You start pushin that poor little hummer more than 5 minutes or so alot and you'l replace it too soon.

I can imagine the possible irony of getting high capacity batteries. Instead of getting longer flight time, the helicopter gets no flight time because the motors are destroyed by heat after that. What's the use of having a bunch of high capacity batteries when you can't use it?

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

Well, I dont/cant solder ..

Seriously!?? Erm.. perhaps time to take 10 mins out of your busy schedule and learn how?

Originally Posted by Xermalk

Also, would it be possible to wire 2 battery's together so you get 300/240 mAh for flying (i know ill loose maneuverability from the increased weight)

The more weight you add, the more stable the V911 becomes.

A 600mah battery will make the V911 so stable that it will not move.

One of my V911's flew with a 300mah 8.24g LiPo. Very stable as I wanted to see what it does in the wind. Also very sluggish, and when you get it moving it feels like it will go through a brick wall.

The maximum battery weight that a V911 can lift is about 8.5g to 9.0g. Though I think I got a V911 in the air for a second with about 10g.

A 130mah V911 battery weighs about 4.60g and two 130mah batteries about 9.20g - likely won't get off the ground.

A 145mah V911 battery weighs about 4.38g and two 145mah batteries about 8.76g - better, still not likely to fly or fly well.

Yes, I am confusing weight with mass. Weight (ounces) is what keeps it from getting off the ground. Mass (grams) is what causes the damage when you hit a brick wall.

Well looks like I am back to playing with the V911 First flight of the big CCPM heli didn't go too well, I forgot to set my expos and while taking off I over corrected and tipped it over enough to kill a set of blades and bend the main shaft. Thats a $100 repair bill, how many BNFs could I have bought for that?




Still it was exciting to hear those big blades starting to thump in the air Its just too bad that this big birds aren't as tough as the little V911, they take a heck of a beating and keep on flying with little to no repairs, and if you do break something is pennies to fix it

Originally Posted by FyreSG

the helicopter gets no flight time because the motors are destroyed by heat after that.

I am curious as to what evidence that you have for this statement.

Every defective motor that has been examined on these threads has shown no evidence of heat damage.

The primary failure modes are brush and commutator wear which have more to do with crashes than heat damage.

I have numerous micro aircraft and helis with hundreds of flights and have yet to replace a motor.

It is my belief that waiting or swapping helis between flights is a complete waste of time.

It fascinates me how this information persists.

I hope that owners of the Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf, Tesla and the San Francisco and New York subways are aware of this so that they can let their vehicles rest after 5 minutes of running.

Originally Posted by RicksterRC

Threading the wires from the new motor through the tail boom without removing the tail boom is usually difficult to impossible.

The tail boom (on all but the yellow copters) is glued in place.
It can be removed with CA remover, but it's not easy.
If it is removed, it needs to be replaced (the CA remover softens the carbon fiber resin and destroys the boom).

Even if you do manage to thread the new wires through the tailboom, it's tough to solder them to the RX board. The pads are very small.

Your best bet is to cut the old wires near the old motor, and pull the motor out of the motor holder.
Cut the new motor's wires about an inch from the motor.
Push it into the motor holder.
Strip the wires and solder them. cover with tape or heatshrink.
Most of us recommend gluing the motor to the holder so that it can't rotate or fall out.

That is what I did...the tail motor just gave out during a flight...ordered a brand new one for a 9958 and spliced it in. Use liquid tape to cover the solder joints and some clear RTV on the cap and to hold the motor to the motor holder. Working great so far!



Not very pretty, but works great!!

Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill

Paddles help greatly in windy conditions because the wind pushes down on the paddle closest to the direction of the wind, helping you head into it in addition to the aforementioned benefits.

Lift for any airfoil is proportional to velocity SQUARED.

For this reason, when in fast forward flight or wind, the advancing blade gains more lift than the retreating blade loses. This results in a net increase in lift.

This puts a force on the blade and because of gyroscopic precession, this acts 90 degrees later and when in fast forward flight usually causes the nose of the heli to pitch up.

The paddle blades can also be affected by wind. Putting pitch in the paddle blades can cause the heli to respond differently in fast forward flight or wind.

On a 90 degree system, putting positive pitch in the paddle blades will help keep the heli in one place. Putting negative pitch in the paddle blades will help negate the ballooning that occurs in wind.

On their earliest helis, the Germans used negative pitch in their paddle blades.

I am going to have to think about the effects on a 45 degree rotor head, but I suspect that they are similar.

Originally Posted by RicksterRC

Threading the wires from the new motor through the tail boom without removing the tail boom is usually difficult to impossible.

The tail boom (on all but the yellow copters) is glued in place.
It can be removed with CA remover, but it's not easy.
If it is removed, it needs to be replaced (the CA remover softens the carbon fiber resin and destroys the boom).

Even if you do manage to thread the new wires through the tailboom, it's tough to solder them to the RX board. The pads are very small.

Your best bet is to cut the old wires near the old motor, and pull the motor out of the motor holder.
Cut the new motor's wires about an inch from the motor.
Push it into the motor holder.
Strip the wires and solder them. cover with tape or heatshrink.
Most of us recommend gluing the motor to the holder so that it can't rotate or fall out.

The wires are so thin that it is impossible to weld

Got a "new" yellow V911 yesterday.

Do yourself a favour and don't buy this model!!!!!!
I have 9 pcs of the "normal" V911 helicopters and all of them fly great out of the box.
But the yellow one is a pig. It's heavy and flies - forgive me - like a pregnant cow. It's heavy and unstable, reacting like a dead fish. Also a little picky at binding to my 9x.
Sorry, but that's zero points for the yellow clone-clone.