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Old Jun 23, 2012, 07:43 PM
Bvc
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2012
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I know this was mentioned earlier in the thread but I can't find it and don't remember what was said (So much info here). I received my BNF and the swashplate/rods are 'crooked'. Sloppy work or what? Can I just take it apart and put it back together straight? Does it just snap/pull apart? Here's some pics.

New crooked BNF on the left.


New BNF


Old RTF -good
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 07:57 PM
Heli Mania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bvc View Post
I know this was mentioned earlier in the thread but I can't find it and don't remember what was said (So much info here). I received my BNF and the swashplate/rods are 'crooked'. Sloopy work or what? Can I just take it apart and put it back together straight? Does it just snap/pull apart? Here's some pics.
Visually it looks excessive, but the best was to know for sure is to set all your trims on the Tx to zero, then fly the heli inside and hover to see how it drifts. If it drifts bad, then you will have to shorten or lengthen the appropriate servo arm rod to mechanically trim it. Try that test to see where it's at.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:06 PM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by tunggad View Post
Hi Pros,

my neu v911 after a crash it now becomes uncontrollable. It flies left + backwards in cirle as soon as it lift off when i increase the motor speed, without any direction command from the TX. I tried to trim it, but got not better.

It now reacts to TX command 'forward' or 'forward+right' very bad, it almost can't fly forwards anymore

What do you think pro? its gone? :-D

Thank you very much
Quote:
Originally Posted by SG Mason Knives View Post
Check to see that the swash plate didn't separate, and check all the linkages. If all that is good check the flybar weights
I'd also check to make sure the swash pivot pin is still in the retaining slot.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:23 PM
Yo R Wee Too Lo
United States, OH, Cleveland
Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
I'd also check to make sure the swash pivot pin is still in the retaining slot.
sounds like swash guide pin is out of it's slot
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:27 PM
Bvc
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2012
330 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayabusa Heli View Post
Visually it looks excessive, but the best was to know for sure is to set all your trims on the Tx to zero, then fly the heli inside and hover to see how it drifts. If it drifts bad, then you will have to shorten or lengthen the appropriate servo arm rod to mechanically trim it. Try that test to see where it's at.
It yaws to the right with increased throttle. Something my first did not do. That's either gyro, tail motor, or wire connection on the pcb, right?

It also gets wobbly at take off, but then stabilizes. Something else my first didn't do.

Other than that it's fine, I think, but it doesn't seem to cut into the wind like the other. Since it is so crooked, I'm wondering if I am loosing just enough pitch to make a difference.

I can see the (sorry I don't know the lingo) piece attached to the main body around the shaft, that the swashplate guide pin rides up and down in is set closer to five o'clock, where the older is closer to 4 o'clock. Does that piece just pull off? I know it is replaceable with the upgrade kits so it must, right? But the upgrade kits have a screw to hold it in place. Is it CA'd?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:29 PM
Bvc
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Joined May 2012
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double post sorry
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:46 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bvc View Post
I know this was mentioned earlier in the thread but I can't find it and don't remember what was said (So much info here). I received my BNF and the swashplate/rods are 'crooked'. Sloopy work or what? Can I just take it apart and put it back together straight? Does it just snap/pull apart? Here's some pics.

New BNF
Main shaft looks bent. Spin by hand an d look for wobble at the top.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:51 PM
Heli Mania
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Originally Posted by Bvc View Post
It yaws to the right with increased throttle. Something my first did not do. That's either gyro, tail motor, or wire connection on the pcb, right?

It also gets wobbly at take off, but then stabilizes. Something else my first didn't do.

Other than that it's fine, I think, but it doesn't seem to cut into the wind like the other. Since it is so crooked, I'm wondering if I am loosing just enough pitch to make a difference.
Actually, if the nose yaws right with increased throttle then the tail motor is adding too much thrust, so the gyro might be bad (slow). If the nose yaws left with increased throttle, then the tail motor can't keep up to counter act the torquing of the heli CCW caused by the increased CW blade acceleration.

Now if you just hammer the throttle wide open instantly, then I'd expect it not to keep up perfectly, but if you increase the throttle relatively slowly the tail should keep up and not yaw the heli.

So if you set your fore/aft and left/right trims for the right stick to zero on the Tx, will the heli hover without drifting fore/aft or left/right? ... once the yaw is trimmed good. That's the real test to see if the servo arms are adjusted to the correct lenght.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 09:01 PM
Bvc
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United States, TX, Houston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayabusa Heli View Post
Actually, if the nose yaws right with increased throttle then the tail motor is adding too much thrust, so the gyro might be bad (slow). If the nose yaws left with increased throttle, then the tail motor can't keep up to counter act the torquing of the heli CCW caused by the increased CW blade acceleration.

Now if you just hammer the throttle wide open instantly, then I'd expect it not to keep up perfectly, but if you increase the throttle relatively slowly the tail should keep up and not yaw the heli.

So if you set your fore/aft and left/right trims for the right stick to zero on the Tx, will the heli hover without drifting fore/aft or left/right? That's the real test to see if the servo arms are adjusted to the correct lenght.
So it has to be the gyro (bummer). Thanks!

I've seen other much more advanced users pics with 'crooked' rods. Guess I'm too much a perfectionist.

So how do I remove the swashplate guide since it doesn't have a set screw?
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 09:10 PM
Bvc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
Main shaft looks bent. Spin by hand an d look for wobble at the top.
Shaft looks good by hand and with throttle, but the swashplate has a little wobble by hand that smooths out with throttle. My other v911 swash is smooth both ways.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cgpirre View Post
Is this the one you find to be crispier then crisp?
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-V9...f-p-46299.html
Yes, though I bought it from aliexpress/firecabbage.

Maybe it's the swash having the ball swivel?
Though the swash still rides up/down, it is definitely less wobbly.

Maybe it's just not as worn out as the rest of my fleet.
Dont' tell my wife I now have five. 2xO/B, 1xR/w, 1B/w, 1xYellow

I think I'll order some of the "new" swash plates for the rest of my fleet.
Even though this one (yellow) has a swash guide pin slot that faces directly aft (rather than the south east facing one on the corters), the swash has two guide pins, so I think it would work on both kinds.

I've got some actual "coRter" canopies coming from RCRoanoake.
I'm going to restore one of my O/B back to it's original coRter/borken glory
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 10:29 PM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by jameschen072 View Post
Hey Zadaw, I think it will bind to the 100S according to many sources..and I wouldnt be surprised if it binds to the 9958 since they are made by the same factory/company (as far as I know)

I've adjusted it a little and the FF speed is now pretty good! also found it could do a funnel like maneuver that I cant pull off on the SP ... starting to love this thing
star
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Canada, BC, Kelowna
Joined Apr 2010
101 Posts
Is the new yellow V911 only available as BNF? I can't seem to find a RTF package.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 11:06 PM
My Corter Is Borken
United States, OH, Newark
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
I've got some actual "coRter" canopies coming from RCRoanoake.
I'm going to restore one of my O/B back to it's original coRter/borken glory
OK, silly question but I have to ask.
The coRter on the canopies is a mis-print, right?
Good ol' Engrish.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 11:10 PM
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Spoiler alert. Too much science.
If you are willing to use the $4 chargers that came with your corter, skip my post.

But if you really want to parallel charge batteries, please read it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SG Mason Knives View Post
What makes you think that parallel charging is bad? Its not, I haven't checked the stock charger yet but I am sure that it is charging in parallel and not two separate circuits.
I haven't opened it, but based on the two separate charging LED indicators, there is most likely some separation/isolation.

Let us know what you find inside.

Quote:
Take a look at this artical on RC Helicopter Fun, Parallel LiPo Charging The Faster & Safer Way To Charge?.
I have found no information stating that it was dangerous or will damage the batteries, if you stay within the guide lines of same cell count, similar capacity, and similar discharge state, it is as save as charging any other lipo battery. If you have information that states other wise give me a link and I will read it over, I am not an electronics noob, it is what I took in college 25+ years ago, but I will admit to having forgotten some of what I learned back then
Sorry, I don't have any links as to why this is such a bad idea that I wouldn't touch it with a fire suit and a ten foot pole.

I do have a Masters degree in EE and 28 years in the industry... and I'll try to convince you to not try this at home.

First, search youtube. for "lipo fire".

The big "if" in your link is "similar charge state".
Similar is vague. Vague makes for poor engineering.

In the industry, we don't even like to parallel cells that will be constantly connected - we get "bigger" cells, rather than using multiples in parallel - even if they are constantly connected (hence always guaranteed very "similar discharge state").

Ignore the charger for a moment - it's not the issue.
The issue is the harness they are showing how to make.
The design they are presenting directly shorts all the batteries together.

If one is charged more than the others (higher voltage), it will immediately try to transfer charge to the others - until they balance.
Sounds like a good idea, right?
Sure, but the process here is unregulated and will happen much too quickly.

The internal impedances of batteries is extremely low. Even with very "similar charge states" the currents between batteries could be HUGE.
While it's safe to discharge our 120mAH cells at 20C (for our 120mAH packs, that would be 2.4A), you wouldn't want to charge at anywhere near that. Most people recommend 4C which would be about 0.5A

I found several references that state that a LiPo cell impedance is in the single digit mOhm range. Let's say you connect a well discharged battery of, say 3.6V and by mistake, you plug in a fully charged one (4.2V).
Before you even connect the charger, the balancing act begins!
V=IR, V/R=I (0.6/0.01) gives us (drumroll) 60A!!! That would be 500C. Or more than 25 times what the full battery is rated to discharge at and about 100 times more than the dead one should charge at.
There will be more than 30W or power generating heat in a confined area made up of volatile chemicals. If you're lucky, the tabs will melt before the batteries burst into flame, but maybe not.
See youtube again for the other likely outcomes

And if the more discharged cell was smaller capacity than the other.... Argh!!
It'd be like a small kid going into the huddle of an NFL football game.

The "para board" in the link apparently uses PTC resettable fuses to keep current between cells under control.

The "simple board" he shows has no isolation. It simply shorts the batteries together.

Maybe this commercial board... http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/g3lipo/lgum6p.htm has isolation, maybe not.

I could go on, but if I haven't convinced you yet, you're on your own.
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