Originally Posted by Bare

Practical for Whom? How does that protect/survive Postal handlers across half the planet, when.. only... wrapped in Yellow packing tape?

Foam box inside. safe.

Originally Posted by andur

I wanted to share my thoughts on the CNC piece. I love that aluminum look! So I bought one. It turned out fairly heavy, even with a carbon main shaft it was a bit too heavy. I can't recall the weight but the kit was over 2g I think.

So I made some mods. I cut off the shorter arms, which I never use. Then I sanded everything down as far as I felt strong enough and drilled some 1-2mm holes for lightness (and looks!). Also I did some math and the easy idea was that if the lower longer arms are made shorter, it will increase the motion of the upper arms. I sanded the lower arms shorter by about 1.0-1.1mm, which I guess gives me about 1-2 degrees more rotation in the upper swash. Well the details don't matter much I guess but the idea was worth investigating. Now I'm thinking we should drill holes in the side of the swashplates lower arm and attach the pivot balls closer to the main shaft that way.

A second very important mod was I glued down the pivot ball inside the swash plate. It wasn't too snug and moved up and down so I dipped some super glue inside the ball and slid it in place. I know I can't get it off anymore but if the shaft breaks (unlikely) I'll just have to drill the remaining carbon out of there. Now the result is pretty nice and tight, also a lot faster than before. The amount the swash moves is considerable - when I go full backwards and sideways at the same time it will actually choke the main shaft so I guess that means I'm close to the maximum of available swash tilt. It will snag at the middle pivot balls retainer ring, very little room to tilt there. I ground it down a bit so it's better but still will stop the blades at mid flight if I tilt the swash diagonally back at high rates. But forward it's OK so it's good to fly. My swash is adjusted so it is tilted backwards a bit (tuned so it will hover on spot), that's why it doesn't affect forward flight.

Which swash are you using and where did you find it?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

... and that means??

The boom the carbon fiber part is a quarter inch longer than the genius. I was thinking of using the 911 boom because of that on my genius. Everyone says to make it that much longer. But then I saw BP Hobbies sells the 2 by 2 mm carbon square tube that is used on both of them for much cheaper. But just about every time I break the tail on the genius the tail motor wires break as well. So it is a lot easier for me to just replace the whole tail on the genius. Because I find it very hard soldering those wires back together. Also I don't have the right wire. So I have not gotten the carbon tube from BP yet but it's cheap!!

Originally Posted by dazr33

Took mine outside today and it would hardly fly at all even after taking the lateral play out of the blades. Massive rumbling Vibration plus toilet bowl effect. Steering right and forward and circling down. When throttling Its kinda like a wheel out of balance and effects the hovering stability. I'll try reassemble it all from scratch (other than than the motor and circuit board connections) oh well if all else fails after installing the upgrade kit you can buy another whole v911 (copter only) for $26.


Has anyone tried this on their v911? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WLToys-WL...item4164ddf41c

got one of these in the mail from aliexpress - I only suppose it will be exactly the same as the silver one I already have (and only used THE UPPER HALF of the swash and the set collar) ... but for the particular purpose I have in mind it would/will be really neat to have a all red CNC kit ...

Yep I used the same alu CNC bit. I guess now they have just anodized it and called it a V911 but it's the same piece as the Solo Pro one.

The top piece is nice I guess only because of the inner pivot ball. I have yet to buy a plastic one that has a pivot ball, but I've seen some on eBay. Aluminium is easier to work with but heavier on the other hand.

Originally Posted by andur

Yep I used the same alu CNC bit. I guess now they have just anodized it and called it a V911 but it's the same piece as the Solo Pro one.

The top piece is nice I guess only because of the inner pivot ball. I have yet to buy a plastic one that has a pivot ball, but I've seen some on eBay. Aluminium is easier to work with but heavier on the other hand.

Here is the one I got in the mail for one of my next "special projects" ...

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs...olesalers.html

Finally got my v911 in the mail last Friday! I ordered it April 2nd when I finally made the plunge into 4ch helis, moving up from my syma s107.

Out of the box I could tell it definitely needed a bit of trim work, but once I was able to accomplish that my beautiful new blue and white R6 board copter hovered like a charm in my living room. It came with the servo arms already in the second (advanced) holes, and I've been flying it around with ease with the controller turned to the lower rates. One of my batteries appears to have gone bad already, after probably 10 flight cycles. It charged, and when plugged into the heli the red light on the board no longer turns on, but the other battery worked fine. So I decided to recharge it, and then it suddenly powered the heli, bu upon flying it the heli seemed to disconnect itself from the controller and fall from the sky, and then turn off. I think it may be time to recycle that lipo.

The only think that I really don't like about this heli is of course the battery placement, I would love for someone to come up with a detailed guide as to how to rearrange the placement of the battery so it slides into the canopy, and wont come flying out every time I crash violently. And also my landing gear has broken at the joint on the front left side, and is now even floppier and flimsier than usual, are there any drop in upgrades for the landing gear, or any recommendations of what kind I could buy and easily modify to work for mine?

I'd say I get about a 5 min flight time per charge now after having lubed my engines and joints on the heli, but would love to achieve more. My metal swashplate should be getting here soon, as well as my MSR flybar paddles. Hopefully those will help my heli do semi-decently out in the wind, I've yet to try it outside though.

Lastly, my tail boom appears to have cracked, and the wires started coming out, so i took a little tape and wrapped it around to hold it together, and it seems to be doing fine so far. I intend to go home today after class and CA the tail boom in place, the cracks on the tail boom, the tail motor, and the front part of my skids where the battery connects since it keeps popping out when I crash.

All in all, I am very happy with my heli for the small amount of money it cost me! It's very fun having the ability to cruise around at speeds much higher than that of my s107, and perform quick piro's as I'm just about to smash into my walls. But of course, now I'm left wondering what's next, I really would love to get into 3d flying

-grandpappy

Originally Posted by andur

Yep I used the same alu CNC bit. I guess now they have just anodized it and called it a V911 but it's the same piece as the Solo Pro one.

The top piece is nice I guess only because of the inner pivot ball. I have yet to buy a plastic one that has a pivot ball, but I've seen some on eBay. Aluminium is easier to work with but heavier on the other hand.

Another option is Solo Pro 270A swash

http://www.myrcmart.com/ne402270010a...te-p-4630.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o_Pro_270.html

Pros:

- Has a main shaft pivot ball

- Weighs 1.22g

- Weighs less than CNC swash & XTreme SP swash = improved performance, agility, flight time

- 16mm, 19mm Swash hub arms

- Less expensive than XTreme SP swash

- Can be installed on Solo Pro, Bravo SX, V911 frame by rototating
the swash pin guide to match the SP 270A swash pin angle/orientation

- SP 270A swash hub & bearing can be transplanted to Solo Pro, Bravo SX, V911 swash base

I transplanted a SP 270A swash hub and bearing to a V911 swash base because my V911's swash pin guide was factory CA glued preventing rotation.

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

I found the high rate and wow... this thing really moves! I noticed it likes to nose dive and then balloon on FFF but that is just the nature of the fly bar I guess. For now I am going to focus on some indoor slow flying and try trimming out a little left drift. It also has a weird sound when hovering. I can only describe it as the sound a saw blade makes when you shake it.... whats that all about?

I've been pressing the button on the top left side of the Tx but I get no difference in the rates at all, is that the correct button?

Originally Posted by Brosol

Another option is Solo Pro 270A swash

http://www.myrcmart.com/ne402270010a...te-p-4630.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o_Pro_270.html

I transplanted a SP 270A swash hub and bearing to a V911 swash base because my V911's swash pin guide was factory CA glued preventing rotation.

Thanx HK one at least ..Only.. requires $2.99 postage
Have an Ali setup already though

Originally Posted by FCMan

[IMG]
Foam box inside. safe.

Certainly Better than I had assumed.
But that Foamy doesn't appear to fit the V911 overly well, 2 V911's I have so far bought arrived 100% unscathed in their WL 'factory' boxes .
Shipping costs somehow cheaper with the bag?

mine came in a cardboard box with a molded plastic inside perfectly safe , took 5 minutes to dig out the charger.

Originally Posted by BlueHavoc

I've been pressing the button on the top left side of the Tx but I get no difference in the rates at all, is that the correct button?

ok it was not as calm as I thought, after ,2 indoor out of the box great flights ,
I recharged and went outside it was windy with little gusts say 10mph.
that damn thing flew into the wind across the wind and with the wind. I flew 2 paks I thought iwould have to go back inside. does anyone else have one with this much power.mine must be a cyborg or something.

Originally Posted by markkona

Well today I finally discovered why my new tx has tamer rudder control on slow rates!!! The new tx when on slow rates only gives 50%(left stick) of throw when making turns or pirouettes while my older tx that came with my first corter has 75% of throws on both rudder and cyclic!! Could it be a one off or has WL toys adjusted it after reading our earlier comments in this thread about the handful rudder controls !!!

I'm betting someone from WL Toys reads this thread, and has tweaked the Tx to make the yaw rate not so wild ... same result at the "resistor mod" done by members here.

Originally Posted by Proud Infidel

And no toilet bowl effect !!

Save it for page 538.