Originally Posted by humphrey111

So has any given any thought to changing out the toggle button for high rates to a flip switch? Now that we have this resistor mod on a toggle, we could have another matching toggle for the high/low rate. Also much easier to know which rate it is currently in. (assuming you know which way the switch should be flipped) Just a thought...

Because it's a "push/push momentary", I suspect the computer in the TX is monitoring the switch for a push.

A toggle switch would not be compatible with this.

Originally Posted by ArcFault

. Well, yes, the reason why is this: I did the paddle flybar mod (another must do) which shortened my flybar. This resulted in an increase in head speed which is fantastic, but also makes the throttle very touchy.

How does adding paddles increase headspeed.
On a FP heli, head speed = up/stable.down

The only way to increase headspeed is to add weight (make the motor work harder to lift the heli).

I'm guessing the paddles add extra parasitic drag that makes the motor work harder to get the same headspeed.

You do have morew rotating mass, so it may act like more headspeed, but it's not.

Originally Posted by Ribble

Do you know what a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch is. Your switches are the wrong kind, namely Single Pole Single Throw (SPST). If you want to turn on/off all stick EXPO, than that is simple with one DPDT switch., or even a DPST switch.

You only need a SPST. Put it in the wire to the center of the joystick pot.

Its not the paddles themselves so much as that I moved them closer to the shaft than the original weights.

Can we turn on the LCD light so it stays on? Shouldn't take too much power I think. Sometimes when I fly in the dark I'd like to see it more.

Originally Posted by RicksterRC

How does adding paddles increase headspeed.
On a FP heli, head speed = up/stable.down

The only way to increase headspeed is to add weight (make the motor work harder to lift the heli).

I'm guessing the paddles add extra parasitic drag that makes the motor work harder to get the same headspeed.

You do have morew rotating mass, so it may act like more headspeed, but it's not.

No, the whole purpose of having large forward cyclic is to pitch your heli forward, so that all that lift is translated more into forward speed instead of upwards. Once your heli is pitched forward, the more headspeed\throttle you give it the faster it will go..........fowards, not upwards.

Additional weight does help if you have a stock setup, but the best solution is to used a modded swashplate or longer servo arms to get more throw in conjunction with transferring weight forward via inserting the battery into the canopy.

The paddles help pitch your heli forwards in windy conditions because the wind pushes more on the leading paddle than it does on the trailing one. Paddles help your heli counteract the wind force by tilting the heli in the direction of where the wind is coming from.

Originally Posted by ArcFault

Its not the paddles themselves so much as that I moved them closer to the shaft than the original weights.

Actually the drag co-efficient of a flat blade in the direction of rotation is probably less than that of a round weight. But having it closer to the shaft is a bonus as well.

The best combination is a very light paddle mounted as far out as possible on a very light flybar. This gives you great leverage for your paddles when wind acts on them, but doesn't kill head speed, in relation to stock.

This is why using the Xtreme flybar vs cutting off weights and using the stock flybar is better for fighting wind and still having good stability. The only caveat is the Xtreme carbon flybar is prone to breakage without bracing and/or dampened flybar shaft.

I wish Xtreme would modify their design so that they simply mold a plastic center section around a solid flybar vs inserting and glueing two carbon rods on each end of a mold. This way on a crash the stiffness of a continuous carbon rod helps prevent distortion in the plastic mold, which is what causes the breakage.

Originally Posted by Ribble

Why would you accept 0.5 grams?

I bought a Turnigy nano-tech 160 mAh battery for $1.17 each for my Solo Pro 270a.
It is 0.5 grams heavier than the Nine Eagles 150 mAh battery.
For the awesome price, the additional 0.5 grams is insignificant.

Bummed! I have good friday off and I just found out that one and possibly both of my batteries are shot! Grrrr.....

Originally Posted by mcmoyer

I just found out that one and possibly both of my batteries are shot!

How did they get shot? You didn't give enough TLC?

actually, I posted that too quick...

The reason I thought they were shot was because on a full charge they wouldn't even produce enough lift to get the heli off the ground. Then I got to playing around with them and noticed the main motor cutting out.

I dropped a couple of drops of clipper oil in the two holes and lo and behold!, it's working again...Yay! My holiday isn't ruined

I've been lubing my rear motor since I bought the thing since it gets so warm but had never done the main...I guess I should have been lubing it also.

Originally Posted by andur

Can we turn on the LCD light so it stays on? Shouldn't take too much power I think. Sometimes when I fly in the dark I'd like to see it more.

The RED and BLACK wires to the LCD Printed Circuit Board (PCB) power the LCD backlight. The BLACK wire goes to the main PCB to R28, a 100ohm resistor, then switched to ground through Q2.

To keep the LCD on, short the outer side of R28 (the "R" side) to the large groundplane below it (the large green area with the grid of little holes).. Or use a switch to short the two.

Instead of overheating R28, scrape some enamel off on the left side and also on the groundplane below it. Then jumper the two with a solder bridge or small piece of wire.


This may add 10ma to 20ma to the transmitter 70ma current draw. I measured it but did not have enough hands to isolate the LCD current from the beeper current.

LCD voltage 3.125v
Part number BM-8018E or BA0ME1

Well, the clipper oil only kept it aloft for a couple more flights. The main motor started cutting out more and more while the tail motor was fine. Originally thought it was the board as the tail motor was twitching too, but once I held it steady in my hand, I realized the tail motor was trying to correct for the bad main motor. Went to the local HobbyTown (lucky to have one nearby) and bought a blade MSR motor for $10. Problem solved.

I'd actually been wondering about my piloting skills lately as I'd been doing maneuvers that I thought I used to be able to pull out of and and had recently been meeting the ground with. Once replaced the motor I remembered how much thrust this thing has. It also seems a bit less loud with the blade pinion gear.

So, maybe this will help another newbie whenever they're trying to diagnose weird flight. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary with the motor until I pulled it completely off the frame. Then, when you spun it one way, you could hear a slight chirping noise.

I have installed the Xtreme flybar on one of my V911s. It's awesome, if you ask me. No more flybars strikes. Just as stable as it is with the stock flybar.

Just my 2 cents on this.

As for the resistor mod, it works on one of my TXs, but on the other one the TX just shuts down when the resistors are connected.. Any idea why? I replaced the switch and I tried different resistors. Same negative result every time. This is bugging me.

Chris

Originally Posted by bobepine

TX just shuts down when the resistors are connected.. Any idea why? I replaced the switch and I tried different resistors.
Chris

Is the bad one the one with an external potentiometer used to control the amount of rudder expo?

With the switch ON, the transmitter does not power up.

With the switch OFF, the transmitter powers up AND will fly the V911 with proper rudder control.

If both of those are correct, then you should inspect closely the wiring on the side of the switch that goes to the existing potentiometer center.

One switch terminal should be connected to the junction of the two resistors and the other switch terminal should be connected to potentiometer center.

It sounds like the switch is shorting the potentiometer outer terminals, as in connected to the printed circuit board side of the resistors.

Are the resistors physically soldered to the printed circuit board, the switch, or only wires?

Originally Posted by andur

Can we turn on the LCD light so it stays on? Shouldn't take too much power I think. Sometimes when I fly in the dark I'd like to see it more.

Guess I haven't really looked to notice, but I thought the LCD back light on the Tx stayed on anytime the throttle lever was anything above zero (off).