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Old Mar 23, 2012, 04:09 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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I got a spare v911 tail motor from MyRCMart and noticed that they are now shipping a shorter variation of the v911 tail motor. I know WLToys is implementing a lot of changes. I don't know if this latest motor change is a good thing or a bad thing. I am aware that motor quality issue is one of the remaining issues I've seen mentioned the most by new owners. I wonder if this is an attempt to remedy that?

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Old Mar 23, 2012, 04:52 PM
when is the wind stopping??
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Malta, Marsaskala
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Originally Posted by Proud Infidel View Post
That was actually a caution not to buy any Xieda 9958. If mine had the toilet bowl effect, then you stand a good chance that if you buy one, it'll have the toilet bowl effect too. Since you like the V911, why move?
LOL mate you re really something. However for your info my first v911 developed tbe after some crashes and still has it and my second one after 3 crashes developed it as well but luckily after dismantling the rotor head and exchanging the blades it has almost disappeared. This micro helis are easily disrupted with a good crash IMO
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 05:03 PM
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another v911

Received my second V911 in the mail. The first was a BNF and this was the entire kit. Surprised to see it was a "Corter" instead of a "Copter". Has older style tail mount. Tested perfect out of the box with the stock controller. On for more testing against my 9958's.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 05:42 PM
Heli Mania
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Originally Posted by Wasp09 View Post
Having said that I don't need the rudder mod, I kind of like the idea of adding expo when I don't need to find my cutter to cut the track. I went ahead to add two 1K ohms resistors to make the centre of rudder pot half as sensitive.

On low rate I think it is on the slow side but we could always use a big rudder as the max yew rate is not changed. If it is too slow for you, increase the value of the resistors.

I fired up my old camera. Here comes the picture.

Hope you can see the two resistors I added inside the red circle.

Enjoy.

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...5-166-expo.jpg
Someone needs to capture this mod in the FAQs on the first page of this thread.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 06:01 PM
Step 1: Tear it apart
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Added to the end of my blog:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post20869893

Thanks Wasp, works great!!!! I used 2K resistors on each leg and I think it's perfect.





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Old Mar 23, 2012, 06:20 PM
Step 1: Tear it apart
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United States, FL, Melbourne
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Just returned from 2 outdoor flights:

So that's what a graceful pirouette looks like!!!!

James, tell Chris that implementing additional rudder sensitivy control along with paddles would really put a hurtin' on the competition. This should be very cheap to implement.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zet View Post
I did the resistor mod (thanks Wasp!) I used two 1.5 K resistors (brown-green-red), and it is absolutely more controllable when turning. It does introduce some dead-space in the middle though, if I did it again I would've used 2K instead, I think.
One extra tip if you open up the TX, is to put some duct tape on the speaker too reduce the awful sound when turning the radio on. The speaker is on backside of the board at the lower right (behind the text SP) if looking from behind. Just undo a couple of screws, bend the board a little and put some tape on it, you can still hear it, but it wont wake up the whole house!
Good to hear that it also works for you. 2K is fine. It gives about 33% reduction at centre. IK is too slow for me too. I'll change mine later, perhaps you folks would find the best value by then. It is D02S time for me now.

Regarding the dead space at centre, it is probably related the deadzones defined in TX (or servo for cyclics). When the sensitivity reduction is high, quite a bit more would fall inside the deadzone.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 08:33 PM
Hola
Joined Mar 2012
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Red Wire Loose - Tail rotor not working

Hey guys,

My tail rotor (from a crash) stopped working. Took off the canopy and found that the red wire from the tail rotor had become disconnected from the receiver.

After looking at your wiring, mine looks completely different. See where the black wire is on my receiver versus yours? (yellow box).

Also, when I try and attach the red wire to the (red box) connector like in your diagrams, smoke starts to come from the wire and it gets very hot. I've tried holding the wire over all the other possible connectors and going on the throttle, but the tail rotor does not spin whatsover.

Do you know where I need to solder the red wire on the receiver?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:08 PM
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I too received an order of v911 parts from myrcmart. I received a newer, shorter tail motor, and main frame that requires the newer screw-on skids. What sucks is that I have to find out if myrcmart sells the newer skids or bore out the smaller hole to accomodate the older pin on skids.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:28 PM
Heli Mania
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Originally Posted by yahhtrick View Post
Hey guys,

My tail rotor (from a crash) stopped working. Took off the canopy and found that the red wire from the tail rotor had become disconnected from the receiver.

After looking at your wiring, mine looks completely different. See where the black wire is on my receiver versus yours? (yellow box).

Also, when I try and attach the red wire to the (red box) connector like in your diagrams, smoke starts to come from the wire and it gets very hot. I've tried holding the wire over all the other possible connectors and going on the throttle, but the tail rotor does not spin whatsover.

Do you know where I need to solder the red wire on the receiver?

Thanks!
If you would have inspected the solder joints very carefully (use a strong magnifying glass if needed), you should have been able to see where that popped off wire came from. But now that you've created a smoke show on the PCB, I'm betting some electrical component got toasted.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill View Post
Added to the end of my blog:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post20869893

Thanks Wasp, works great!!!! I used 2K resistors on each leg and I think it's perfect.






Awesome blog, mate. I'm having a hard time understanding this resistor mod. Wasp put the resistors directly onto the board, but you used wires to connect the resistors to a switch, right? This is to turn the resistors ON/OFF as to reduce rudder sensitivity at center stick at the flick of a switch, correct? That way you can flick it off in low rates and flick it on in high rates. Am I getting this right? If so, then that's brilliant!

Would you be kind enough to hand draw a simple wiring diagram for this? The pictures aren't enough for me to go on performing this mod.

Best,
Chris
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 04:01 AM
Zet
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Kingdom of Sweden, Stockholm County, Stockholm
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Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
Awesome blog, mate. I'm having a hard time understanding this resistor mod. Wasp put the resistors directly onto the board, but you used wires to connect the resistors to a switch, right? This is to turn the resistors ON/OFF as to reduce rudder sensitivity at center stick at the flick of a switch, correct? That way you can flick it off in low rates and flick it on in high rates. Am I getting this right? If so, then that's brilliant!

Would you be kind enough to hand draw a simple wiring diagram for this? The pictures aren't enough for me to go on performing this mod.

Best,
Chris
Resistor mod wiring diagram, the switch is optional:
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Last edited by Zet; Mar 24, 2012 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 04:16 AM
my precious Corter
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Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yahhtrick View Post
Hey guys,

My tail rotor (from a crash) stopped working. Took off the canopy and found that the red wire from the tail rotor had become disconnected from the receiver.

After looking at your wiring, mine looks completely different. See where the black wire is on my receiver versus yours? (yellow box).

Also, when I try and attach the red wire to the (red box) connector like in your diagrams, smoke starts to come from the wire and it gets very hot. I've tried holding the wire over all the other possible connectors and going on the throttle, but the tail rotor does not spin whatsover.

Do you know where I need to solder the red wire on the receiver?

Thanks!
Right below the S+ sign
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 05:57 AM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Oct 2006
450 Posts
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Originally Posted by jaas75 View Post
Guys i just remember a good and cheap replacements for tail motors (if you can still find them, last one i saw was on a dollar store so thats a good place to start).
First ill start with a little story lol: Do you remember your first plane? well i do it was aero ace biplane (similar propeller and motor specs as the tail motor of our beloved v911). Well back then, when our motor when south we replace them with the vibration motors of the Colgate toothbrush (not the one the head rotates, im talking the one that just vibrates).
take the counter weight out and you have a pristine new motor. Remeber no need to solder/desolder etc just cut the tail motor wires and join them with the wires of the new motor.

So if you are waiting for a replacement from china or looking for a supplier and your bird is down, give this a try!!! the most itll cost is 1dl (+tax, cant forget taxes lol_

For all of you looking for tail motor replacements. im reposting.
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
I got a spare v911 tail motor from MyRCMart and noticed that they are now shipping a shorter variation of the v911 tail motor. I know WLToys is implementing a lot of changes. I don't know if this latest motor change is a good thing or a bad thing. I am aware that motor quality issue is one of the remaining issues I've seen mentioned the most by new owners. I wonder if this is an attempt to remedy that?
That motor looks about the size of the S110G main motor? Many pages ago I tried to use the S110G main motor as a tail motor for the V911 and it didn't work. The gyro was confused about the yaw rates and it would make the heli wobble for a second after a turn. It would however hold a heading OK, just the turning was off. I thought this was due to the fact that a point of inertia in the end of the tail boom takes a certain amount of force to move and if I mounted a lighter, a few mm shorter motor, the inertia was less. The gyro was programmed to compensate a certain amount of inertia and it was not adapting. The gyro only adapts when holding a heading, not while turning (at least that's how I understand it).
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