Yeap, my flybar sags and I have never had a strike. This heli is really capable of fast forward flights. I am thoroughly impressed with it. After 21 flights ( I keep a flight log), there is no issues. It can also pull off some cool bank turns. I've had a couple of crashes ( 2 into drains) without any parts breaking. So if anyone is following this thread wondering whether to get this heli, think no more, just get it. Cheers!

This corter has been one issue after another. After fixing the bad ground on the PCB, now I had a blade strike against my wall and it broke the blade pivot pin, replaced that with the metal head and now it slides to the left hard, like im on left aileron. This thing is not worth my time anymore. I already fixed NUMEROUS issues with this thing in the 3-4 days Ive owned it. The paint is even coming off the canopy....really? Its not made well AT ALL. I did like the way it flew when it did fly properly.

I was going to either sell it or use the PCB in one of my 9958's and make a v911/9958 frankencopter with the head and rotor assy from the 9958. I think to me the 9958 is a lot more fun, plus I have crashed my 9958 50-60 times and it still works properly. One wrong look at the v911 and it seems to break. I wish I could love it, but I dont and I wanted to love it.

If anyone offers me 50.00 Ill sell it. v911 with metal swash, rotor head, msrx tail motor, xtreme CF flybar, SP CF main shaft. Again, it would need some work to fly perfect but its got some nice parts on it. 50 bucks or Im keeping it and making the 9958 frankencorter. PM me if interested. Peace.

My take on flybar strikes...

There are two kinds. The canopy strike and the tail boom strike. Of the two, the canopy strike is easier to recover from. I think the curvature of the canopy aids the flybar to quickly get past the strike should one occur. The tail boom strike on the other hand is more severe, usually takes you out of the sky. Partly because of the maneuver you're doing to cause it to happen, and partly because when it contacts the tail boom, it's more of an abrupt stop.

The issue with soliciting feedback about flybar strike is that it's usually missing context. The missing context is how the person generally flies their v911. Additionally where they fly, whether it's flown indoors or outdoors, makes a huge difference in encountering flybar strikes. And lastly, how they handle the control sticks...stick masher or gentle finesse.

I can give a lot of details from my personal experience. Both on the Solo Pro and v911 and 9958BSX (a 9958 modded with a Nine Eagles head) because I have experience with all three. The frequency of flybar strikes are different between the them, with strikes on the 9958BSX, follow by the v911 and then the Solo pro. However, it will be a lengthy post.

Therefore...

• If you're a beginner...you probably won't be encountering the flybar strikes. Especially, not anything that will take you out of the air. It'll just be a minor annoyance if you get any. Most of the time, you're working on your orientation skills and hoverflying.
  
• If you're flying indoors...in a relatively average size area. You probably won't be encountering flybar strikes either. There's usually not enough room to put the heli into the kinds of angle where flybar stikes are likely to occur. If you're a more advance pilot seeking speed whereever you fly, then yes...flybar strikes does occur even indoors.
  
• For pilots on the opposite side of the spectrum, you generally have what it takes to finesse the controls so you can mitigate flybar strikes. But the whole time, you feel like you're putting an artificial limit on yourself.
  
• Outdoors, with room to take the v911 to full speeds, you won't get into the issue of flybar strikes unless you're
  

  A. Fighting the wind, and thus the wind wants to put your heli into more extreme angles. The windier it is, the higher the likiness of flybar strikes happening. It's because flybar will naturally try to compensate for the angle you're putting the heli in to fight the wind, and this causes flybar strikes occur.
  
  B. Do more FP sports flying, that entails transitions from tail funnels to FFF and back. Backwars figures 8's whipping into 180 FFF. Etc... Yes, flybar strikes are going to occur. And the initial strike that everyone mainly talks about is not really the problem. It's the second, third strike that will happen if you try and use your skills to attempt to recover. Often times, because you are already pushing the envelope, any strikes (canopy or tail) will throw you off. You can finesse back into a recovery hover depending on how severe the strike was and when/where it occurs in your maneuver. Also how high off the ground you fly determine how successful the recovery is. The more experience you have, the more likely you're flying closer to the ground.

Anyways, that's brief overview IMHO.

Originally Posted by Hayabusa Heli

Nice Corter collection ... what's that big green beast? Now that I've learned 4-ch on the V911 and Xieda 9958, I want a bigger 4-ch (or eventually move up to a 6-ch) for some outside fun.

Originally Posted by JoshWildFlyer

That's a very cool fleet gordonzo. Just wanted to know the make and model of the green heli in the back?

The green beast is my MJX-F45, from one of my favourite manufacturers, Meijiaxin Toys. You can see my first impressions here.

It is similar in size to my HBFP, so about 300 size, but this one is easy to hover and fly. It flys like the smaller fp's, but with extra momentum to account for, especially on fast, banking turns. I hover it easily in my living room but it needs a large area to actually fly. I added the MJX camera attachment which I am still evaluating.

I have about 10 flights on it so far. Flight and camera videos will follow soon.

But I have to say that the v911 made the biggest impression on me! After reading of some of the problems people are having with it I was pleasantly surprised at how well it flys. I don't find it noisy nor slow. Give it some fwd elevator and a shot of throttle and it takes off very well!

Here is my F45.

After reading a few posts on flybar strikes, I'd like to offer my own experience. Flybar strikes could absolutely be deadly and take your helicopter from mid-flight. If you say that it couldn't, you haven't seen a real one, yet.

The flybar could strike in two places. One of them has been mentioned, the canopy, but the other one hasn't been mentioned, the tail boom. Striking the canopy produces an awful sound like you hit the canopy with a spoon. It might disrupt your flight pattern, but usually it is not deadly. However, striking the tail boom is a different matter. It could absolutely stop your helicopter in its track and it drops out of the sky and spiral down.

If you have altitude, some times you could recover by goosing the throttle and bring it into a hover. But other times, while it is spiraling out of the sky, goosing the throttle will only going to cause the flybar to strike a few more times, and your fate is sealed.

Flybar strikes occur when the flybar changes angle suddenly, going from one extreme to another, flexing the flybar. It is more prominent in the v911 and Solo Pro because of the head design. Some one mentioned that his 9958 does not get flybar strikes. That is true because of a different head design.

If my memory serves me right, Holicopter posted a video of his flying with a flybar strike. He was able to recover from it. If you want to see one in action and see how much it dropped in a split second, you should go watch his video again.

EDIT: It appears that Daryoon and I were writing at the same time again, even though he always type faster.

@afloyd82:

Don't give up on it yet. My v911 would have fried if I had not read this thread and saw the many people who had smoked RX. So I gave it a once over before I hooked up the battery for the first time. Glad I did because I saw that the two pads where the main motor wires soldered to had a huge blob of solder that bridge both points together. I knew that couldn't be good. So I used a vacuumed sucker to suck the solder blob off. What I learn was there was a capacitor(?) underneath that huge blob. So surely the RX would have smoked had I inserted battery to it without fixing the problem.

The second spare RX went to Heli Pad, and that one had a servo issue where it would go past the 180 range of motion and get stuck. Even limiting it's range by adjusting the end point so it only reached 70 degrees of travel via the Turnigy 9x only helped but not fix the issue. Every now and then, it would still move past the 180 mark and get stuck.

I learn that the middle point of the three points the servo POTS solder to contacts a large metal plate within the servo. This in turns contact/touches the a plastic wiper arm. Too much heat here will melt part of the plastic nub, causing the servo to act up. So then have to be very careful at the factory. You'll notice that on the Align Trex 100, though it shares a similar servo. The POTS used is more like the Solo Pro and 9958. It sticks out in the PCB like the servo motor does on the v911. I suspect the high potential for melting the plastic servo wiper is why so little solder is sometimes used on the POTS solder points. In some photos, I see gaps between the PCB board and POTS's legs.

Anyways, my point is..if you can get past some of these issues...should you be unfortunate to encounter them, it is a fun heli to own and fly. But you already knew that.

So...If you're replacing the head, you would expect the need to do some mechanical trimming. If the head is from Solo Pro, then you have to change out the blades too, because the pivot pins are a smaller diameter on the Solo Pro design. The v911 blades will have too much play.

Anyways, if your v911 is moving left like it has left aileron input, then giving it right aileron will cancel that out. That means, you have to lengthen(?) the right servo link. Give some right cyclic input. The direction the arm moves determine whether you need to lengthen or shorten your link. Give it a try and let us know. It should be relatively quick to do.

Got mine yesterday - am very impressed. Everything as stated in this thread which means slightly slower FF than the SP but more controllable and more stable. Great heli.

Unfortunately the minute wire going into the tail motor disconnected after a very short time.
For the orignial I pay about 10 US inkl. Shipping, For the tail motor of the 9958 I pay only about 4 US inkluding Shipping vom Hongkong.

I guess they are the same (size and performance). Can anybody confirm?

Thanx

Originally Posted by hongkong

the minute wire going into the tail motor disconnected after a very short time.
For the orignial I pay about 10 US inkl. Shipping, For the tail motor of the 9958 I pay only about 4 US inkluding Shipping vom Hongkong.

I guess they are the same (size and performance). Can anybody confirm?

Different color wires but they're the same. Just match red wire to red wire.

I use tape to prevent tail motor twisting and movement on my V911 and Solo Pro 270.

guys, what does it mean if you have to give tail rotor a push to start the motor ?
Is it a burned out motor or ?
(it's not the corter , I'm fixing another heli, but I guess it could be also helpful for V911 lovers)

Originally Posted by madmito

guys, what does it mean if you have to give tail rotor a push to start the motor ?
Is it a burned out motor or ?
(it's not the corter , I'm fixing another heli, but I guess it could be also helpful for V911 lovers)

Commutator brushes are what wear out on electric motors, alternators, & starters. How old is the motor?

new, but I put smaller rotor on it, cause I don't have bigger dimension available.
Also I reversed plus and minus.

thanx mate,

I know about the mod with the tape. Did it with my SP 260. Should have better done it also on my V911 before first flight.

Originally Posted by afloyd82

I was only getting 3 minute flight times at first but now after oiling the motor its getting 5 1/2 minutes.

I'm also getting only 3min with my new corter, tried oiling the shaft and it doesn't help.
How do you oil the motor and what did you use ?
Could beard trimming oil be any good ?

Originally Posted by madmito

I'm also getting only 3min with my new corter, tried oiling the shaft and it doesn't help.
How do you oil the motor and what did you use ?
Could beard trimming oil be any good ?

I tried dropping in motor oil into the small holes with a toothpick. It kinda worked. Then I used some clipper oil (same as beard trimmer I would assume) and that seemed to work quite well. My motor was "snatching" causing it to fall out of the sky like a wounded duck. This seemed to fix the problem as it hasn't happened again...yet... Your mileage may vary.

Originally Posted by hongkong

I know about the mod with the tape. Did it with my SP 260. Should have better done it also on my V911 before first flight.

What kind of tape do you like to use?
I'm thinking of moving from electrical tape to masking tape. I don't like the adhesive on the electrical tape, not strong enough.