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Old Jan 05, 2013, 10:55 PM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by GiantScale View Post
Anyone know where to get tail motor wire? I stripped off some of the insulation by mistake.
If only the insulation is damaged and everything else works, you can apply some liquid tape to cover up the exposed wire.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:24 PM
ITS ME DAVID's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Apr 2011
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What's a next step in heli from this heli ?
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:36 PM
Different fly 4 different guy
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Canada, BC, Salmon Arm
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Okay, I have consulted with people, and I have researched and double checked. I'm sticking with my explanation. The middle asymmetrical piece is the mixing arm. The other two are linkages. Actually, if you google mixing arm, you will find a number of examples in the same general shape. Some have several holes on the arm, so that you could change the "mix".
HP - Are you referring to the picture with the 3 parts or the picture of the v911 head?

regards . . . g
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:56 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Joined Aug 2011
6,622 Posts
Gord, I am referring to these 3 pieces links as part of the V911 head.

I'm calling the small, asymmetrical piece on the left hand side in this picture as the "mixing arm". The other two in the picture are linkages. Would you concur? Of course, when they are properly installed. The left piece is the middle part connecting the other two linkages.

Some other members have suggested that the piece in the middle of the above picture is the mixing arm. But I don't think so. To me, that is the lower linkage. It's hard to carry a conversation or discussion if we couldn't agree upon which part is which.

It's all cleared up. Everyone actually agrees which one is the mixing arm. It's a case of referring to too many different photos, and I got confused about what people were saying. Sorry.
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Last edited by Heli Pad; Jan 06, 2013 at 04:31 PM.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 11:56 PM
Registered User
United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
4,698 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID View Post
What's a next step in heli from this heli ?
Either a Blade nano or a low-stablizing quad like a Blade MQX or WL toys V929, if they are still using the same program as original that is like the MQX.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:16 AM
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United States, CA, Folsom
Joined Jan 2013
2 Posts
Hello,

This is my very first post on RCGroups and I'm sorry if this is an extremely stupid question. I just recently received my WL V911 after upgrading from the famed Syma S107G. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how to manually adjust the trim on the helicopter itself instead of using the controller. I tried searching for this information myself, but I wasn't able to find anything. Also, I was interested in buying a CNC Alloy Metal Upgrade Set from eBay. I was just wondering if this would actually cause any improvements, or if it would just increase the weight of the helicopter. Sorry again if this question has been covered many times before.

Thanks!
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:23 AM
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United States, CA, Folsom
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I was also wondering what mods that would be highly recommended on the WL V911. I'm already thinking of doing the paddle mod. Anything else worth looking into?

Thanks
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:30 AM
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rick, bad news, the alloy parts will kill you bird's performance.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:38 AM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickH9 View Post
Hello,

This is my very first post on RCGroups and I'm sorry if this is an extremely stupid question. I just recently received my WL V911 after upgrading from the famed Syma S107G. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how to manually adjust the trim on the helicopter itself instead of using the controller. I tried searching for this information myself, but I wasn't able to find anything. Also, I was interested in buying a CNC Alloy Metal Upgrade Set from eBay. I was just wondering if this would actually cause any improvements, or if it would just increase the weight of the helicopter. Sorry again if this question has been covered many times before.

Thanks!
Yeah, skip the metal. To do a "mechanical trim" pop off an adjust the links that go from the servos to the swashplate balls. To figure out which way, take note of what direction the drift is in, then hold the heli in your hand and look at how the swash moves in relation to how you move the cyclic, then you should be able to figure which and how much to adjust. I can't tell you exactly how or how much. just do a little bit at a time and retest. you gotta learn this by yourself like I did.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stevez1kart View Post
From what I have read I believe a servo twitches because there is a potentiometer (pot) in the servo that tells it what it's current position is. If there is damaged or a dirty spot on the pot where the servo is being commanded to locate the servo will go back and forth trying to locate the correct position. If the TX is off or it is on with a different stick value it will stop twitching. If this theory is incorrect please feel free to enlighten me.

The servos are great on the v911, You wanna know about servo twiching get an mcpx lol they are terrible. and everytime i tried inverted flight etc the tail blew out, and another common prob is like a weird wobble and change of sound when flying.

i sold my mcpx i could not stand it, sounds strange but i prefer the 911 over the mcpx
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:14 AM
ITS ME DAVID's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Either a Blade nano or a low-stablizing quad like a Blade MQX or WL toys V929, if they are still using the same program as original that is like the MQX.
No quads not interested in those at the moment. What's the difference between the blade nano cpx and blade sr 120?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:18 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by PhilMcCracken View Post
rick, bad news, the alloy parts will kill you bird's performance.
You are generalizing too much !!! This may be mainly true, but it is STILL to much generalization (like almost all people do with alu parts for almost ALL smaller helis that are NOT CP. [for certain helis btw you can buy alu kits that actually weight about the SAME as their stock plastic parts!!!])

I wish that people would be a little more specific in their statements some times ...

...
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:37 AM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Rudder trim not being saved?

I don't seem to have noticed this before (had it for over two months), but my stock transmitter does not save the rudder trim after switching off. It does however save the elevator and aileron trims. Is this normal or what?

Is there any way to re-set the transmitter?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:52 AM
Always borking my corter
Joined Feb 2012
126 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
You are generalizing too much !!! This may be mainly true, but it is STILL to much generalization (like almost all people do with alu parts for almost ALL smaller helis that are NOT CP. [for certain helis btw you can buy alu kits that actually weight about the SAME as their stock plastic parts!!!])

I wish that people would be a little more specific in their statements some times ...

...
This might be true with other helicopters, but with the V911 you can generalize and say that all aluminum upgrades are junk. If companies like Xtreme and MicroHeli made upgrades for the V911 it would be a different story, but the only aluminum upgrades you can get for the V911 are very cheap, low quality pieces that don't fit right and cause poor performance.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 02:01 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by bflan2001 View Post
This might be true with other helicopters, but with the V911 you can generalize and say that all aluminum upgrades are junk. If companies like Xtreme and MicroHeli made upgrades for the V911 it would be a different story, but the only aluminum upgrades you can get for the V911 are very cheap, low quality pieces that don't fit right and cause poor performance.
Well, with my "some companies make aluminum kits that weight practically the same as the plastic", I was referring mainly to RKH (because they most often proof their claims with pictures where they actually weight the parts) and if Xtreme or MH made the (unfortunately RKH too) the parts would cost about 3 to 4 times the price of a BNF

However, the reason why I say too much generalization is because I once bought the "infamous" el Cheapo alu kit for the Solo pro (for 7bux on special) and I did an extensive review of the kit on my blog. At the end it turned out that - like I admitted - most of the stuff is comparably heavy and does not really do too much in terms of performance, BUT using the UPPER part of the metal swash (the part with the brass center ball) ONLY DID actually improve the performance over the stock swash AND did not add an awful lot of weight ... so in the end THIS ALONE was worth the 7$ I paid for the kit to me ...

... but of course, this is only MY personal experience/2cents and the assessment of value of different mods is of course always completely in the eye of the beholder ...


(btw, if you interested in my opinion on the cheapo alu kit, its posts 68-73 here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1591898
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