Originally Posted by R.sok

Item has already shipped so I guess I'll just have to wait & see. Hopefully it's 200mah. Upon closer inspection of the batt it says either tc55114s or tc551148

I just received the same heli you ordered from Amazon (Helizone Lightning) and it's the same model that Diablos pointed out, but with the 200mah battery, and a different painted canopy.

the battery says: TC551148 LJ20 on it, and is in fact the 200mah.

this is my first heli besides a cheapo 3ch, and so far so good. it arrived yesterday, i bounced it off of the fridge in the house, and the tail motor cap came off which ruined my brushes, and rendered it unflyable. also, the tail motor wiring isn't the best, so keep an eye on it. i have already replaced the tail motor with a trex100 motor, and ran external wires down the boom. this is my first post on here, but so far this has been the best place for v911 information. best $50 i've spent in a long time. enjoy.

Originally Posted by white8785

I just received the same heli you ordered from Amazon (Helizone Lightning) and it's the same model that Diablos pointed out, but with the 200mah battery, and a different painted canopy.

the battery says: TC551148 LJ20 on it, and is in fact the 200mah.

this is my first heli besides a cheapo 3ch, and so far so good. it arrived yesterday, i bounced it off of the fridge in the house, and the tail motor cap came off which ruined my brushes, and rendered it unflyable. also, the tail motor wiring isn't the best, so keep an eye on it. i have already replaced the tail motor with a trex100 motor, and ran external wires down the boom. this is my first post on here, but so far this has been the best place for v911 information. best $50 i've spent in a long time. enjoy.

How many minutes you getting on the 200mah batts

haven't measured yet. gimme a few and i'll do a test.

Originally Posted by Stevez1kart

Cagthree, if the batt voltage is below the low battery cutoff it will stop flying mid air. If you have a way to check, the battery voltage of a charged battery will be close to 4.2 volts. Usually voltage after a full flight would be around 3.5 volts. Not sure that's the problem but a good palce to start.

Okay think I narrowed it down. I believe it is the battery at this point. They no longer charge. I plug in the charger it flashes the LEDs quickly and go off. When i place battery on charger nothing happens. I have tried in a USB outlet on a computer and also with a wall charger for an Iphone I used the USB port. Did I burn up the battery by using an Iphone charger as the USB plugged into a wall outlet?

I really like the feel of the v911 TX. I think ill just do the resistor mod.

To the people who have done the resistor mod. id like to slow the rudder down to a sped somewhere between full mode1 and full mode 2 between centre and maybe halfway out. and anything past halfway on the stick just acts normally.

i know people have been soldering on between 2.0 and 2.2k resistors.

would LOVE advice on peoples results BEFORE i do this. dont like soldering resistors. (nasty soldering iron)

Originally Posted by 153stars

How many minutes you getting on the 200mah batts

roughly 9 minutes before full throttle won't keep it off the ground.

type of flying: circles around the kitchen hovering 1-7ft off the floor and only a couple of crashes that caused roughly 30 seconds (max) of non flight time.

hope that helps. was actually looking to see if there was a way to make these work
http://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Helico...&keywords=v911

for another 40mah. just not sure about weight comparison to know if the effort would be worth it.

Originally Posted by Cagthree

Okay think I narrowed it down. I believe it is the battery at this point. They no longer charge. I plug in the charger it flashes the LEDs quickly and go off. When i place battery on charger nothing happens. I have tried in a USB outlet on a computer and also with a wall charger for an Iphone I used the USB port. Did I burn up the battery by using an Iphone charger as the USB plugged into a wall outlet?

Did you check the voltage of the batteries? I can plug a charged battery into the charger and it won't even blink.

BTW I have one battery which won't do anything in the V911 until I move it around a bit. It has a bad connection on it. Sometimes I can get it to go on and stay on, but the first time I hit something or land it is out again. Could be your batteries are similar.

The charger is a USB charger so it will only take the power it needs from the source.

Cagthree, can't answer your question but I'll say this. If you have a lipo battery that drops to a voltage that's way too low (less than 3v ?) then it will no longer charge as the charger no longer accepts it. The other possibility is you have a bad charger. I have one that now only charges on one side. Another thing I have read is that you should never have a battery in the charger unless it is pluged into a power supply first.

Originally Posted by Diablos

I really like the feel of the v911 TX. I think ill just do the resistor mod.

To the people who have done the resistor mod. id like to slow the rudder down to a sped somewhere between full mode1 and full mode 2 between centre and maybe halfway out. and anything past halfway on the stick just acts normally.

i know people have been soldering on between 2.0 and 2.2k resistors.

would LOVE advice on peoples results BEFORE i do this. dont like soldering resistors. (nasty soldering iron)

The resistor mod does not slow down the rudder. It just makes it less sensitive at center. You'd need a potentiometer to slow it down. I did the resistor and pot on two transmitters for my children. I got the DH 9116-26 transmitter for me for $11 USD (I see you're in Australia though). I heard someone say $9 USD. For that price, unless you have child hands that cannot hold the 9116 TX, it's the way to go. I love it.

I want a longer servo arm (horn) for the pitch servo. I fly indoors in a small chucrh hall using default speed mode. I did the resistor mod to tame the yaw control using two 2.2 Kohm resistors. I'm OK with the roll servo action but am always banging on the limit of forward pitch.

Bvc, do you know of a good site that goes over the menu settings on the 9116 transmitter? I'm new to helis and I just got my 9116 tx today.

Also, I noticed that I can't change the rudder settings, any idea why?

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

By Jiuchon, are you referring to the 9C002? If you are, I agree with you, the V911 is much better than the 9C002.

However, did you know that Jiuchon makes an improved V911? The Y911 (Yellow 911) that people have been praising is made by the same people. They took the V911 and improved on it, making it even more stable, and durable. So, don't write them off too quickly.

Where can you get the Y911? Yes, I was referring to the 9C002.

Originally Posted by bflan2001

Bvc, do you know of a good site that goes over the menu settings on the 9116 transmitter? I'm new to helis and I just got my 9116 tx today.

Also, I noticed that I can't change the rudder settings, any idea why?

thats what i want to know. can the 9116 tx YAW curve be programmed?

Originally Posted by Bvc

The resistor mod does not slow down the rudder. It just makes it less sensitive at center. You'd need a potentiometer to slow it down. I did the resistor and pot on two transmitters for my children. I got the DH 9116-26 transmitter for me for $11 USD (I see you're in Australia though). I heard someone say $9 USD. For that price, unless you have child hands that cannot hold the 9116 TX, it's the way to go. I love it.

Tell me, does the resistor strength dictate the amount of stick thats effected by the mod or how effective the mod is in a predetermined area.

Like does the stronger resistor lessen the curve of YAW from centre stick to full stick?

Originally Posted by mbioman

Where can you get the Y911? Yes, I was referring to the 9C002.

to answer your question, posted by bflan on my V911 rev comparions thread.

The yellow (or all white) v911 sold only by banggood is not a regular WLToys V911. Some call it the Y911. It's the only v911 that comes with the carbon main shaft and bushing in the swash. I don't think any of the WLToys V911s have that.

The v2 WLToys V911 has the new style battery, but the battery is angled down like the v1 and they are known to lose batteries easily. The v3 has a totally different skid that tucks the battery up and holds it much more securely. It also has an updated head and blade design. But it still does not have a bushing in the swash or a carbon shaft.

None of the v911s come with a CNC swashplate. Aluminum upgrades are not necessary on the v911 and usually cause problems.

Originally Posted by Diablos

to answer your question, posted by bflan on my V911 rev comparions thread.

The yellow (or all white) v911 sold only by banggood is not a regular WLToys V911. Some call it the Y911. It's the only v911 that comes with the carbon main shaft and bushing in the swash. I don't think any of the WLToys V911s have that.

The v2 WLToys V911 has the new style battery, but the battery is angled down like the v1 and they are known to lose batteries easily. The v3 has a totally different skid that tucks the battery up and holds it much more securely. It also has an updated head and blade design. But it still does not have a bushing in the swash or a carbon shaft.

None of the v911s come with a CNC swashplate. Aluminum upgrades are not necessary on the v911 and usually cause problems.

So if I have the new connector black v911 from ban good it is a true v911, but if I get the yellow/white it is the y911? I have the black one currently and have a yellow with new plug on the way. I have not had any problems with the battery falling out, then again I don't crash much at all. It is so much more controllable, even at speed' compared to the JC9c002.