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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jboy90277 View Post
I glued carbon fiber strips about the same width as the rudder to the trailing and bottom edges of the rudder with Welder adhesive. I used Welder rather than CA because I was concerned CA would be too stiff and may come off from banging the rudder against things during transport. You'll want to remove the paint on those surfaces to make sure the Welder has something to hold on to that won't peel off. You'll need to press the rudder flat while the adhesive dries.
That sounds like a great idea. Unfortunately, all I have are some carbon fiber rods, 4mm and 5mm. I was planning to cut a slit in the rudder and glue in a 4mm rod but I am little nervous to cut into the foam especially since parts are not yet available.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Florida,USA
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Originally Posted by timflyerfry View Post
That sounds like a great idea. Unfortunately, all I have are some carbon fiber rods, 4mm and 5mm. I was planning to cut a slit in the rudder and glue in a 4mm rod but I am little nervous to cut into the foam especially since parts are not yet available.

I just lay the rod where I want and mark both sides with a pencil and use an exacto knife and cut inside the lines and hold blade with fingers on both sides of blade for a depth gauge and cut on a like a 45 degree angle where both cuts will intersect.. pull out the foam and use my Dremel tool with a small bur bit to clean out slot... push carbon fiber rod down and use thin CA to glue it in. Works great. If you don't have a smooth trench then use thick CA in the bottom and then put in the rod.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:47 AM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Originally Posted by timflyerfry View Post
That sounds like a great idea. Unfortunately, all I have are some carbon fiber rods, 4mm and 5mm. I was planning to cut a slit in the rudder and glue in a 4mm rod but I am little nervous to cut into the foam especially since parts are not yet available.
You can probably cut a groove into the edges and glue the rods in...
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by d_toolman View Post
I just lay the rod where I want and mark both sides with a pencil and use an exacto knife and cut inside the lines and hold blade with fingers on both sides of blade for a depth gauge and cut on a like a 45 degree angle where both cuts will intersect.. pull out the foam and use my Dremel tool with a small bur bit to clean out slot... push carbon fiber rod down and use thin CA to glue it in. Works great. If you don't have a smooth trench then use thick CA in the bottom and then put in the rod.
Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try. I assume medium CA will work as well as thick or thin?
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Medium works just as well... fills the gaps if you have any.... that is what you want..no gaps.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Medium CA would be better than thin. The medium will fill the gaps better- the thin will just run and get all over the place. You may want to use kicker on the medium to keep it from oozing into places you don't want. Just don't bang the rudder into a doorway, ceiling, or car door too hard - it may bend the rudder enough to dislodge the rods.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
I'm having trouble with the stock ESC on my Sbach and feel I should replace it. If I land after flying for 6 minutes and let the prop spin down it won't go again. The prop just vibrates like one of the wires isn't connected. I wonder if I have a cold solder joint like someone else had?

Anyway... I love the idea of everything working on this el-cheap-o plane and not having to upgrade anything except for putting on an APC prop. But the elevator servo isn't centering well, so that'll have to go too... darn.

i just had to re-solder the connectors on the peaks last night. still had power drop off issues, so im gonna toss in a 60 amp e flite tonight.

i have 3 of the sbachs and they all have odd issues at low speed, erratic behavior, but i guess i got used to it. i think a better esc is in order though

does seem like alot of cold solder joints latley,must be training a new guy at the factory.

skull
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 11:06 AM
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I did StormdriverOne's motor mount reiniforcement mod since my mount was coming loose even with the extra glue I applied. I did make one improvement to it however. I drilled a hole through it to allow for better motor cooling by allowing air to pass through as on the stock mount.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by StormdriverOne View Post
E-flite 5mm collet adapter and a 2-1/4" spinner work well. Thankfully, the spinner doesn't have to match up to a cowl on this plane so you can substitute whatever brand works for you. There was a report of a 2" spinner not fitting over the E-flite prop nut.
I purchased the E-flite 5mm collet adapter and a GP 2-1/4" spinner as you had. However I find that the collet doesn't fully tighten on the motor post and will pull right off after its fully tightened. I think I may be missing something here. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:07 PM
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Yeah. Not sure what's up with that, but don't get me started on collets again.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dalesum View Post
I purchased the E-flite 5mm collet adapter and a GP 2-1/4" spinner as you had. However I find that the collet doesn't fully tighten on the motor post and will pull right off after its fully tightened. I think I may be missing something here. Any help would be appreciated.
What prop are you using? The stock prop will not fit on the e-filte collet and would cause the nut to get tight before the collet is tight on the motor. Likewise, the stock spinner will not fit on the e-filte collet either.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 03:43 PM
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i ordered a bunch of prop adapters from horizon and all had the same part # but a couple had the larger thread that the peaks and sbach have.

they fit right up,spiinner and all, but naturally nobody knows what the story is on the larger thread. ordered some from great planes, will see how they work out.

skull
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:11 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Apr 2011
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Peaks Build Log from Last Weekend...

I built mine this past weekend so I thought I'd note my assembly experiences here for the group. Long post so sorry in advance...

When I took the horizontal stabilizer/elevator out of the box it was warped (cupped) badly. The only good part about it, if you can call it that, was that it was warped somewhat equally, meaning it was almost symmetrical on each side. I immersed the whole thing in hot water & then placed heavy objects on it on a flat surface overnight to flatten it out. Got about 50% of the warped condition out but it's not flat.

Another problem was the all equal length control rods that came with the kit ended up being too short for the upper ailerons, at least they were on mine anyway. The clevises barely had any threads to hold onto after adjusting them parallel with the lower ailerons. I had to use a different set up with aftermarket control rods & linkages to get it to work without the possibility of them separating during flight... Also, the upper ailerons flex when exercised, meaning they "peak" at the control horn when deflected upward. Anyone else notice this? I did break-in all four ailerons before connecting the linkages but I guess they might need a bit more breaking-in...

The elevator push rod turns into a wet noodle when giving max up elevator. I put a plastic push rod guide over the rod but IMHO it still flexes way too much. I think an aluminum or CF tube is needed instead like others have already mentioned.

Dynam shorted some hardware, too as the prop spinner didn't come with two screws to attach the nosecone to the back plate. Luckily, I had some spares that were the right size to remedy this. On the positive side, it centered well, the prop seems secure & nothing vibrated too much when I spun it up to full throttle...

The stickers were difficult to peel off. Even harder was placing them back in the proper position, without any wrinkles, especially that largest one for the top wing. Got 'em all on there, though & where I wanted them to be with the help of a few strategically placed t-pins...

The battery hatch is a pain to take off once it's closed. I put a clear tape "tab" on one side to make it easier to remove like others have done. This was easy to do & it works really well.

I think I made the mistake of installing the receiver under the canopy, not under the secondary wing strut hatch as others did. Now, if I ever need to get to the Rx I'll have to remove the lower wing, which isn't convenient by any means... Bench trimmed it & balanced it with 4S 2200 mAh lipos I already have & the CG came out per spec with the packs pushed against the forward bulkhead. Might have some balance problems going to 4S 1800's, though...

There's a massive amount of rudder travel on this bird! Almost seems like too much. I really toned it down with the dual/triple rates on my Tx for normal flight but it's all there for 3D...

Overall, the build went okay. So far it seems like a good value for the $$$ compared to other stuff that's out on the market. This isn't my first go round dealing with these types of PNP build issues, either. It took me awhile to sort out everything out but I got it together with some degree of certainty & confidence for the upcoming maiden. Now we'll see how she flies...soon...
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:35 PM
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ever since i got the this plane my only gripe is the paint job. i love the red n black color scheme but i hate that its a flat color . so i decided to clear coat it with poly acrylic " the entire plane ", now i have a shiney pitts that looks, like either i drenched it in armor all or waxed it. ala karate kid, wax on wax off
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