Originally Posted by poiyt

And Jguilt & AZ, here's another model you just HAVE to get: the Dynam 48" Sbach 342.

I gotta say...the more time I put on this plank the better I like it. And I never thought I'd I say this, but I like it BETTER than my CarbonZ Yak.

So if this Dynam bipe flies like anything like the Sbach, I'm gonna be a certified Dynam fanboy.

I have been following the Dynam SBach thread as well. I am really impressed with Dynam's 3 newest releases! I have read that the SBach needs quite a bit of mods to make it 3D capable. I personally want something out of the box with a few small mods to be 3D ready. I am also following the SU-26m thread. First reports are promising. Dynam has put in 17g tail servos and stronger control horns than the SBAch. If the next shipment of the SBAch has those revisions as well I will go for it. I really want a nice SBach. I do not have one in the hanger yet. They are just cool looking planes. I already have 2 Edges, 2 Slicks, and one extra. An SBach would be a great addition.

Originally Posted by poiyt

Ok this is the wrong thread but I'll ask anyway...

I've had my eye on this puppy for a while now

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14881

PNP, $106 shipped to my door. Decent lookin little bipe with a huge fanbase.

Anybody here got one?

It was a great sport plane for me! I have had 2 of them and killed 2 of them. It is made out of the beer cooler foam so if you hit the ground at the right angle and hard enough the plane will be toast. I lost both of mine trying to make it do tricks it was not suppose to such as KE spins, tumbles, and just a bunch of flipping about. It handled them fairly well I just could not pull out in time and smacked the ground hard! The remains of the fuse are still sitting in my living room waiting to be stripped. If you get the sttiP make sure you do the mods before you fly it. Carbon spars in both wings, new ESC, larger battery bay opening, and the Parkzone prop. It makes a whole world of difference and the mods are not that tough or time consuming. Check out the thread and then go from there. I really loved both of mine. May they RIP.

Thread is here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=sttip

Originally Posted by lkagan

Anyone know what type of lipo pack lead is on the ESC?

It is from Nitroplanes so probably their Banana Plug. I always change mine to Deans. That is what I have been using and am comfortable with. Just change it to what you like.

got mine today, yes it's a banana plug.

box is huge, maybe 4ft tall.

got everything put together, didn't have time to do the electronics, everything is beefy.

nose cowl is held on by 2 magnets, i need to make a small pull tab for the battery door.

Hoping to fly this weekend.

Originally Posted by jrod155

got mine today, yes it's a banana plug.

box is huge, maybe 4ft tall.

got everything put together, didn't have time to do the electronics, everything is beefy.

nose cowl is held on by 2 magnets, i need to make a small pull tab for the battery door.

Hoping to fly this weekend.

Nice

Jrod, try and take a couple of assembly pics! Can't wait to get mine.

Please let us know if the Dynam decals are already applied or not. I want to make my own seeing as how I work for a large custom graphics and decal shop

Originally Posted by JGuilty13

Jrod, try and take a couple of assembly pics! Can't wait to get mine.

Please let us know if the Dynam decals are already applied or not. I want to make my own seeing as how I work for a large custom graphics and decal shop

Make me some while your at it The stock decals are terrible. I just got shipping notification. It will be here Wed. Maiden next weekend....

decals are not applied, it comes on a sticker sheet.

it's already assembled, took like 20 mins, it all screws together. even comes with a y harness for the ailerons.

I don't have a camera, so no pics.

the only thing i discovered was that for the machine screws on the wing braces, the order should be screw-washer-wing support-wing-nut. I tried putting washers on both sides but i ran out and realized how it should put together.

it has a dynam speed controller which is just a rebranded hobbywing, i can tell from the manual. The typical program card should work.

nice spot for rx? no gluing?

Mine should be in today, wow no gluing at all?!!!!

Maybe I'll post an open box video? Would anyone be interested?

Originally Posted by queadlunnrau

Mine should be in today, wow no gluing at all?!!!!

Maybe I'll post an open box video? Would anyone be interested?

That would great! I'm curious if they're all using the left-over yellow plastic pieces to attach those tail wires.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by lkagan

Now I'm no lipo expert, but as far as I know, the mAh is only the storage capacity, like an electrical gas tank if you will. The more mAh, the longer you can fly. And it's not a one-to-one relationship between capacity and flight time since larger capacity packs are heavier and require more energy to stay up. More punch comes primarily from an increase in voltage (ie: number of cells in the pack). However, small changes in power can be achieved by decreasing internal resistance. That's where the 'C' or discharge rate comes in to play. So a 35C lipo CAN produce more punch than a 20C but only if the motor demands it. One other thing that can affect internal lipo resistance is the ambiant temperature. I believe lipos have the least resistance at around 105'F. So a slightly warmer lipo will allow the current to pass more easily. Flying in really cold weather will hinder flight performance. Although I wouldn't know that last fact first-hand since I live in sunny South Florida. ;-).

Larry

Yup. You are correct. And, as you see from what you say, all other things being equal (C rating especially), a higher mAh battery will give more "punch" than a lower mAh one. Just compute the available amps (mAh x C) to see why.

Originally Posted by queadlunnrau

Mine should be in today, wow no gluing at all?!!!!

Maybe I'll post an open box video? Would anyone be interested?

That would be great!

It's here! Taking a 15 min. Break here at work just to unbox it ... Damn too excited, like a school girl at band camp!

Originally Posted by queadlunnrau

I don't see any 13x6 props on hobbypartz

13x7 should be better for 3d right, I figure pushing more air with a slight increase in amp draw?

If you want to fly 3D you want a prop that does not have too much pitch. A 13x6 is good for all around. Having less pitch allows the motor to spool up fast when you need it. Too much pitch can be a bad thing because the plane will torque over if you punch the power too fast and also the motor will not spool up fast enough if your doing any maneuvers that requires constant throttle control like slow rolling harriers.

Originally Posted by lkagan

How do you all plan to manage the popping off of that hatch above the receiver (as in the video)? Antonio recommends silicone or similar adhesive. I was thinking about adding a small set of rare-earth magnets. I just don't know where to get them. I was also thinking about some double-sided tape. Any thoughts?

The manual says to glue the hatch down but simple velcro or magnets would be better since you can access the receiver area if you need to.

Originally Posted by queadlunnrau

Mine will be in Friday, but my LiPo's haven't even shipped yet ... =(

I'm tempted to maiden it on a 2200mAh 3s ... hmm just scale flying ... wonder if it's a bad idea ...

Don't do it. There will not be enough power to ply the plane. The first few seconds you will be able to fly, but after like a minute the power drops and can cause the ESC to cut out. That's the report I heard when someone tried to fly the Dynam SBach on 3s so I'm just passing along the info

Originally Posted by Wingbreaker

The Nitro guy, Tony, said the 1800 were better for 3D.

I just hope the decals are not on already. They are ugly. I might paint some white strips on the bottom or something too.

1800mAh is better for 3D. A 2200mAh makes the plane a tad bit heavier and also more nose heavy. For 3D too noise heavy is not good. The lightest setup is best. For just sport flying a 2200mAh would be great since it allows longer flight times.

The decals comes on a separate sheet

Originally Posted by lkagan

I'm very happy to see that the servo rod connectors (I forget what they're actually called) have backplates and aren't solely glued on. Seems like a good quality plane. This will be my first Dynam.

Larry

Yea we have been working with Dynam to improve their planes

Originally Posted by FlyWW1

Hey Tony,
Will you be bringing the Peaks and SU-26M to Toledo?

We're going to try to bring them. That's if their still in stock when the time comes.

Originally Posted by AL1EN

Is nitro even coming to toledo? im working the toledo weak signals show and i dont think i heard if they are or not.

If you are Bring some FMS 800MM series war birds ill pick one up from you.

Yes we will be attending the WEAKS show. I'll bring it up with our manager to see if we can bring the 800mm planes.

Originally Posted by MNadMan

Tony, When will the price be corrected for the unpainted (white) Peaks?

Originally Posted by lkagan

Anyone know what type of lipo pack lead is on the ESC?

they come with banana 4.0 connectors