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Old Jan 16, 2012, 10:59 AM
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I used the 4030-880 in a haoye shroud with a turbax rotor cut down to 110mm on 10s and it work great. it was actually a pretty modest setup. Somewhere around 4000 watts and 90-100 amps if i recall. That is the motor I am thinking about using on a cutdown CS 120.

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1900 with an 18x12, the motor is pretty warm to the touch but not scorching hot. I donít think the real cheap ones are meant for that kind of power or RPM's though. The 4030 motors are meant for Heli's which run at higher RPM's and require more power for the size of the motor. I would say at a minimum you would have to replace the bearings with quality ones. It would be a fun experiment, I think I have seen 5065ís as low as $30.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
did something similar with a haoye, glue the lip of one of the older CS 190 with Welders 2 part.

It's sKrong as all get out, figured if I balanced the fan pretty good it would keep the glue from noticing any stress.
lol, we did the EXACT same thing. I just remembered it was a CS 90 shroud, not a wemo.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:03 AM
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I used the 4030-880 in a haoye shroud with a turbax rotor cut down to 110mm on 10s and it work great. it was actually a pretty modest setup. Somewhere around 4000 watts and 90-100 amps if i recall. That is the motor I am thinking about using on a cutdown CS 120.
I was commenting on the fact that there are performance differences between the 4030's and the 50mm motors used primarily for aircraft, which I think is what ERH is talking about. The 880 on a 110 sounds good to me. You might be in the 120-150amp range though, CC160 would need to be used. I cant roll that deep when it comes to controllers so I have to keep the amps down.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Cutting down from 120 to 110mm is only 1/4" off each blade if you think about it. going down to 100 is a whole 1/2" and might be too much. My Blaze started as a 90mm 3 years ago before the bigger power systems became affordable. I don;t like 90mm setups for planes the size of the Blaze because to get the power I want, the amps get too high. bigger fans put out more for less. I have been flying it on a 100mm fan now. I am molding the wing and made a recess into the wing so larger fans can fit. The only problem is the tailcone, but that can be trimmed back to create a larger exit. The Spark has a 48" Span and my Blaze is 52".

here is the Blaze next to a Saprk and another pic with the 4"(100mm) Haoye. Plenty of room. a 90mm swims in it.

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Yeah, it already has very aggressive blade angles and cutting it down is only going to make it worse. Higher loading for the diameter, if that is the correct term. But hey, for the money its worth a try. You are thinking this for the Blaze? I have not read through your entire thread but I thought it was a 12s 90mm bird. Or is it close to Spark size?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:08 AM
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yeah, that's not going to work if that is the case.. I like the sound of the multi blade fans, but like to stay in the 100-110 amp range and gte longer flight times. I use a 160, but only because it stays cool without cutting holes in the fuse. I only draw 110 amps on it.

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I was commenting on the fact that there are performance differences between the 4030's and the 50mm motors used primarily for aircraft, which I think is what ERH is talking about. The 880 on a 110 sounds good to me. You might be in the 120-150amp range though, CC160 would need to be used. I cant roll that deep when it comes to controllers so I have to keep the amps down.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:16 AM
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...It would be a fun experiment, I think I have seen 5065’s as low as $30.
You're right, for the money it would be worth the try...if I fried the motor I'm only out 30skins but if it works....

I've got a 670kv motor with an 8mm shaft that I'm going to use with the TURBAX 120mm full sized rotor to test heat etc

I theorize it's worth a shot cause of motor size. On the 90mm thread someone claims to put 3700 watts through one of the SUPPO 500 heli outrunners. Seems like outrunners get rid of heat better than inrunners due to open design, magnets spinning through the air and over the stator. The larger the size the stator and out runner bell the better ability to dissipate heat if windings are done efficiently.

IIRC Knife was saying around 60-70c afterrun temps on the motors was OK as long as there was a cool down run for a couple of seconds and that was over 5000watts burst. A couple of other factors I've seen when it comes to motors ability to eat watts is the magnet heat rating, the internal resistance of the motor windings and the winding wire laminate heat ratings.

I honestly can't read motor quality like I used to with speakers etc. I could usually tell how much heat a good driver would dissipate by windings and VC diameter and magnet size with stroke and excursion but with brushless motors it seems the less info on how the motor is made the better for the seller.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:27 AM
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I think you would need about 600kV motor to get 4000watts on 12s. The Turnigy Sk3 (inrunners) and the like on the 800-880kV will probably be 9-10s (~4kW) setup.

This is based on the initial data supplied by the video. This also jives with Changesun's own range of motor kVs for 12s. But we would need more data to better gauge the motor selection. I want a 12S setup but no more than 130amps
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
Cutting down from 120 to 110mm is only 1/4" off each blade if you think about it. going down to 100 is a whole 1/2" and might be too much. My Blaze started as a 90mm 3 years ago before the bigger power systems became affordable. I don;t like 90mm setups for planes the size of the Blaze because to get the power I want, the amps get too high. bigger fans put out more for less. I have been flying it on a 100mm fan now. I am molding the wing and made a recess into the wing so larger fans can fit. The only problem is the tailcone, but that can be trimmed back to create a larger exit. The Spark has a 48" Span and my Blaze is 52".

here is the Blaze next to a Saprk and another pic with the 4"(100mm) Haoye. Plenty of room. a 90mm swims in it.
Oh man, you have loads of room in there. I think Tam is the only game in town for just a 110mm shroud. The 114.5mm haoye is probably the best cheap option.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
You're right, for the money it would be worth the try...if I fried the motor I'm only out 30skins but if it works....

I've got a 670kv motor with an 8mm shaft that I'm going to use with the TURBAX 120mm full sized rotor to test heat etc

I theorize it's worth a shot cause of motor size. On the 90mm thread someone claims to put 3700 watts through one of the SUPPO 500 heli outrunners. Seems like outrunners get rid of heat better than inrunners due to open design, magnets spinning through the air and over the stator. The larger the size the stator and out runner bell the better ability to dissipate heat if windings are done efficiently.

IIRC Knife was saying around 60-70c afterrun temps on the motors was OK as long as there was a cool down run for a couple of seconds and that was over 5000watts burst. A couple of other factors I've seen when it comes to motors ability to eat watts is the magnet heat rating, the internal resistance of the motor windings and the winding wire laminate heat ratings.

I honestly can't read motor quality like I used to with speakers etc. I could usually tell how much heat a good driver would dissipate by windings and VC diameter and magnet size with stroke and excursion but with brushless motors it seems the less info on how the motor is made the better for the seller.
I would just triple check everything before running. A lot of the cheap 50mm motors seem to like to throw magnets for some reason. I put JB Weld in-between all the magnets on the 50mm contra prop motor because I was afraid of a magnet coming loose and it worked great. What make is the 670kv one you have? Is it a 5055?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:46 AM
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yeah the Haoye 110 works well. Here it is in my Spark with custom adapter I made. Not bad for like $20.

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Oh man, you have loads of room in there. I think Tam is the only game in town for just a 110mm shroud. The 114.5mm haoye is probably the best cheap option.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Haoye 110 or 114?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Sorry....114....i rounded down. I used a Turbax rotor on 10s.

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Haoye 110 or 114?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 11:58 AM
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I would just triple check everything before running. A lot of the cheap 50mm motors seem to like to throw magnets for some reason. I put JB Weld in-between all the magnets on the 50mm contra prop motor because I was afraid of a magnet coming loose and it worked great. What make is the 670kv one you have? Is it a 5055?
http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ess-motor.html

Looks like there's plenty of heat soaking mass to go along with a decent sized stator and cooling holes.
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 12:22 PM
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LOL, 55A max burst current and 800 watts max. That poor little motor is not going to know what hit it . With the Turbax what are you looking for as far a numbers go on 12s? 3-3.5kW?
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Old Jan 16, 2012, 12:30 PM
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http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ess-motor.html

Looks like there's plenty of heat soaking mass to go along with a decent sized stator and cooling holes.
I have this motor. It's rated at 800 watts. It's an ok motor. May have a short life span in this fan.

steve
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