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Joined Mar 2007
275 Posts
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Vulture 3500 E glider build
I believe I have the first electric versions of the new Vulture made by MVM in Bulgaria. I'll be doing a build thread.
The Vulture F3J is featured here in http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1381844 Its 3.5m of gorgeous competition thermal design. The one I'm building is the full carbon version (65g carbon) but with new electric fuse. In comparison to the glider, the E fuse is considerably shorter in the nose but the same boom length. There are two lay up options , the other is carbon D-box wing. Both are priced extremely competitively especially for a Euro model. I am spec'ing the install with light gear and adequate but relatively low power at approx 450w and hopefully 90-100w per lb. The good thing is I've found this is not a problem with a light weight set up using a Hacker A20 6xl and 3s 2200 as my main concern was getting a reasonable CG range without doing anything too drastic in shoving everything up front. |
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Joined Mar 2007
275 Posts
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More of the power system.
What has kept me thinking is getting the CG. I wanted to keep the servo position under the hatch in the bottom of the fuse so everything else needed to go forward. With a heavier motor its less of an issue. There's lots of room spinner is 38mm but 40mm outrunners can fit easily because of the nose taper.
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Joined Mar 2007
275 Posts
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A design feature of the Vulture is a relatively large tail. It's nicely done and incredibly light at sub 40g per side. Unusually, the elevators do not have a hard hinge line. The skin is backed with peel ply as is the norm but it flexes. The ball links or inserts were not supplied or fitted but there is a nice moulding pre drilled for you. I used pretty standard 2mm balls and some nice threaded 303 grade stainless steel pushrods, cut down as inserts. I had to use a syringe to squirt in thickened epoxy so that the inserts were bonded to the top skin and not just the bottom skin moulding. These bits are not supplied.
Only other job was to glue in single 2mm incidence pin (supplied) and open up the corresponding hole in the fuse to 2mm (undersized but factory drilled). As single hole easy to adjust incidence if needed after test flying. A tail cone finishes this end.
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Joined Mar 2007
275 Posts
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The wings have really nice metal horns factory installed, driven from the top surface. The are shaped so that some portion goes in between the skins and are a good if initially tight fit to standard 2mm clevises using a 1.6mm diameter pin. The recesses on the skins and wipers are factory done too but both need adjusting to allow clevises to go on and so that you get unrestricted travel. Not much though and I tried very hard to keep any adjustments small. It really is pretty clean and not much hangs in the air. The surfaces, flaps in particular are huge. Some thought and design has obviously gone in here to produce a clean linkage. Just a light fettle to one flap wiper was needed and all moved to full deflection without anything catching.
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Joined Mar 2007
275 Posts
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Using baby servos in the ailerons in particular I used an external bearing kit to stop head rock and reduce side load on the wing servos. It really helps to produce a slop free install. The bracing of the servo to both the top and bottom skins is the key though. I don't like servo frames as you can never get rid of skin flex this way. The arms are 10mm for flaps and 5mm for ailerons. This with the factory installed horns and using maximum servo travel gets the throws needed. The pushrods are decent stainless steel in ailerons on threaded L bend (because of small arm) and 303 grade stainless steel in flaps using clevises at both ends. The bearing kit is my own Fu-Fix kit and the housing is tied to both skins with a ply brace. All arms are under the skin so a flat cover can be used. The bubble covers supplied are not necessary. This makes an even cleaner wing.
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