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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:48 AM
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Melbourne Australia
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Seagull MXS-R

Well after resisting for the last few months I finally caved in and bought this kit. Partly because I have everything ready to drop into it, partly because it has an electric conversion kit, and partly because I like it!!

I have started building already and will post pics of my progress when I get the chance. Needless to say it's your average kit. Some parts are easy and just fit together. Other parts need some work! In all I'm happy with the kit and how it is finished.

Here's a link to the model. http://www.seagullmodels.com/NewsDetail.asp?id=29

Best thing is, I don't have to take the wing off to change batteries!!!!!

Warning!! Make sure you glue the blind nuts/T nuts in the rear of the fuse (for tail wheel attachment) before you glue the tail feathers on!!
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Last edited by aerophilia; Nov 27, 2011 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 06:16 AM
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United States, NC, Jacksonville
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Awesome plane. I have always wanted either an MXS-R or Edge 540R in a plane that size. It was a little too rich for my blood when I was looking for another 65" aerobatic plane. I went with the Phoenix Extra 330 and it’s a very nice kit, I am sure the Seagull is great too. The only "problem" with it to me was the two piece landing gear which is a pet peeve of mine since I land hard sometimes .

What power system is going in it? I running a Turnigy SK 5065-380 on 6s and it’s plenty of power for sport flying.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 07:48 AM
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I'm going to use a scorpion 4025-12 on 8S. It's a setup I was using in my CMPro midget mustang until it had a hard landing. So all the gear from the mustang is going into the MXS-R. With a 13x10 the mustang was doing 220km/hr. I think I'll try and get a 14x8 or something similar for this bird.

The landing gear looks ok. We'll see how it holds up!

I'm keeping a close eye on your spitfire thread as well. I'm waiting to see how you overcome the spinner side of things!
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 07:57 AM
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OK, so first up I glued the tail sections in. Normal removal of film etc. I'm not sure how I did it though, but I measured everything up with the stab upside-down. Luckily, Seagull printed "TOP" under the film that you cut away from the stab! I'm glad they did. I had to re-measure and align everything again, but it saved me having to explain why the stab colours were upside down for the next 12 months!

A little bit of sanding of the stab saddle made everything line up pretty well

Glueing the rudder in was a sinch. Everything just lined up straight.

Now I don't know about you guys, but my wife loves my planes. Especially when I glue stuff together on the kitchen floor. So I do it as often as possible, just to keep her happy
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 08:03 AM
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Next up I did one of the easy jobs. Glued the pilot in. He's a pretty good looking pilot. But he feels heavy! I should have opened him up to see if there was any surgery I could perform, but I'm on a deadline! While I'm at it the detail on the cockpit dash is pretty cool too.

Then I glued the canopy on with Pacer formula 560 canopy glue. It's great stuff. The manual says to put wood screws in as well. Not sure if I'll do that. I think it would distract from the nice clean lines.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 08:39 AM
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Next up I tackled the main gear. Removed appropriate film with a soldering iron (much better than with a knife) and bolted the legs on. Easy.

Wheel pants, not so easy! I swapped the wheels that come with the kit for another pair I had laying around. The originals are very lightweight foam. Mine are much better rubber and a bit bigger at 3.75".

First drill a hole in the spat to match the hole in the leg. Then mount the wheel on the axle with collars. Then the manual says to put the axle and wheel inside the spat. Well, there was no way I was ever going to get all that in there without breaking the spat. So I just enlarged the hole to the end of the spat and slid it the axel in. I figure the spat isn't going anywhere, it's pretty tight in between that block of wood and the u/c leg.

Now the whole axle contraption comes with a piece of wood that's not mentioned in the manual. I guess it's to protect the spat when you tighten everything up. Good idea. You may, like me need to grind the inside of the spat flat where the wood touches. Otherwise the axle and wheel will be pointing in odd directions that will make taxiing less enjoyable!

Tomorrow, the tailwheel/blind nut debacle. Ugh.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Very nice looking bird. I love the lines of the MX2 and MSX planes . Do you plan on using the CA hinges? For my larger birds I have always used DuBro pin hinges because I like to over-build things. The Phoenix 330 actually came prehinged with pin hinges...made the build super quick.

On the spitty spinner....I ordered one of the Esprit models fiberglass spinners for the rear spinner as the Zinger one was definately not going to work.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 04:06 PM
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I have just used the CA hinges on this one. There are 4 in each aileron, and 3 in each elevator and rudder panel. So hopefully that's enough!!
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 06:15 PM
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Installation of the tailwheel is all good bar one part. There are 2 blind nuts/Tnuts whatever you want to call them in the fuse that you bolt the tailwheel assembly to. Be warned, my nuts were not glued in. Needless to say I pushed them out and they were rattling around inside the fuse.

The reason they pushed out is the bolts provided are not the right bolt for the job. See pic, the thread of the bolt runs out before the whole assembly gets tight. You could pack it with washers or whatever, I ended up using the bolts supplied for the motor installation. Much more sensible size.

Getting the blind nuts back in was a major hassle. If the tail section wasn't glued in access would have been simple.

GLUE THE BLIND NUTS IN BEFORE YOU GLUE THE TAIL SECTION IN!!
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Old Dec 07, 2011, 07:08 AM
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Allrighty, my updates have been slow as I spent all my time finishing this bird for a fly-in, last weekend. But didn't get to fly it because of the wind! So I'll keep going with the build.

The motor box construction is pretty straight forward. You just glue the electric conversion sleeve over what is already there. Make sure you adjust your firewall (it can slide backwards and forwards) to suit your motor. I left it as far back as I could.

Initially I was worried about the strength of the whole motor box construction. But once it was all glued together, it felt very very strong.
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Old Dec 07, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Dang, that is one nice battery tray. That was the ONLY thing lacking on the new Phoenix Extra 330. Man, you could put 12s 5000's in there easy . Talk about never ending vertical. 20kg of thrust on an 8kg plane.
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Old Dec 07, 2011, 09:36 PM
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I hope to post some pics of the battery tray tonight. What you see in the last pics were the battery shelf. There's a tray that slides in that the batteries attach to to make it easy to get them in and out. But you are right, it's huge. I'll measure it up tonight. Not sure about 12s 5000, but would be close!
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Old Dec 12, 2011, 09:59 PM
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Well, better late than never! Here are the battery tray pics. If I didn't have the esc inside the battery area, I have no doubt 12 S would fit. Especially if they were less than 5000mah packs!

So the battery tray just slides into place, held at the front by a tongue and groove kind of fitting. Of course it didn't fit straight away. I had to file out the groove a bit, easy enough. I also added a small piece of triangle stock behind the tongue. I didn't trust their attachment to stay put.

The tray is held in place with 2 small allen bolts. A bit painful, as now to get the batteries out you have to undo 4 bolts. It is almost easier to remove a wing!

The last pic is my plan if the natural airflow is not enough to cool the motor and batteries. It's just a cheap computer fan hooked up to a brushed speedie. At low throttle, when I guess there is the least amount of airflow, the fan runs at full speed. At full throttle the fan runs at half speed.
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Old Dec 12, 2011, 10:11 PM
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I had some real trouble getting my cowl to line up with the spinner. After a while I realised that the front of the motor mount was hitting the inside of the cowl, preventing it from getting in the right place. 5 mins with the dremel removed all the unnecessary ply and everything now lines up perfectly.
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Old Dec 13, 2011, 08:09 PM
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So I started working on the cooling system yesterday. There's a great round scoop in the front of the cowl, but without any mods, the air would just go in and out of the cowl underneath everything. So I went to my local hardware store, and found a piece of plumbing tube, cut and filed and sanded it to the right shape and glued it in. Hopefully it blows a whole lot of air straight onto the motor, then over the battery and esc. The motor should be fine, but I think I'm going to need to cut a hole in the fuse somewhere to get the air going over the esc and battery.

I'm hoping for a maiden flight in the next 24-48 hours. Will report back when it happens!
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