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Old Nov 29, 2011, 08:50 PM
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glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Jul 2002
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Thanks man, it's shaping up really well.
The glue seems unaffected by dope or the water used to shrink the tissue.

Before covering the wing I did some experimenting with Deft sanding sealer.

Regular Deft has a retarding thinner to allow the coating to flow out before hardening. This slow curing property is what seems to require a week for the coating to cure before it can be painted.

The sanding sealer dries fully in a couple of hours. Wonder if it would make a good dope substitute on tissue?

I let the white powder settle out and used the lacquer on the tissue covered vertical stab.
The results were disappointing. The tissue went limp when wet with the lacquer and stayed that way when it dried. I stripped the tissue off and covered it again.

This time I used sanding sealer thinned 50/50.
Same thing, wet tissue went limp then stayed that way.

While trying to remove the tissue the second time, I destroyed the stab and had to make a new one.
I'll stick to my tried and true Aerogloss for coating tissue. Deft will be reserved for use on fully sheeted models.
Glenn
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:00 PM
A posse ad esse
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
Thanks man, it's shaping up really well.
The glue seems unaffected by dope or the water used to shrink the tissue.

Before covering the wing I did some experimenting with Deft sanding sealer.

Regular Deft has a retarding thinner to allow the coating to flow out before hardening. This slow curing property is what seems to require a week for the coating to cure before it can be painted.

The sanding sealer dries fully in a couple of hours. Wonder if it would make a good dope substitute on tissue?

I let the white powder settle out and used the lacquer on the tissue covered vertical stab.
The results were disappointing. The tissue went limp when wet with the lacquer and stayed that way when it dried. I stripped the tissue off and covered it again.

This time I used sanding sealer thinned 50/50.
Same thing, wet tissue went limp then stayed that way.

While trying to remove the tissue the second time, I destroyed the stab and had to make a new one.
I'll stick to my tried and true Aerogloss for coating tissue. Deft will be reserved for use on fully sheeted models.
Glenn
You know something old buddy, if we could find a place to fly these ultra micro models indoors that wasn't such a hassle to get to or so limited on the days they are open for flying, I probably wouldn't build too much of anything larger. This size sure has a way of growing on me as time goes on. The more I see them, the more I like them. Particularly now that the Spektrum bricks have put all this capability within the reach of all of us.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 05:47 AM
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Only places I can think of that would be a possibility is hangar 3 at MacDill and the old Fort Hester armory.
Good luck getting into MacDill since centcom is there now.
Tropicana field would be the best and least likely to gain access.
All the other places rent by the hour and there is a big deposit and other fees involved.
School gyms are kind of on the small side for these models. Even flying my Trojan would be tight in one.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 07:15 AM
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Rockford Illinois
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It is because you fellas live in the nice climes and we yankees have to build indoor venues in order to handle the b$tt cold.
I really like how clean the tissue came out. I might just have to dust off the old skills. Craig, with the new bushless bricks, and even with the old brick and a well placed diode, you can power most anything.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 08:44 AM
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USA, FL, Tampa
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Yeah, a golf dome? What's that....
Here it would prevent some guys from getting hit by lightning, but there's not much snow or cold weather to deal with.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 09:02 AM
MPP
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Danbury CT (DXR)
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Fine Job Glenn, this is going to turn out really nice. Just when I think I had a good trick for leading edges (adding an extra stringer) you throw in that awesome sheeted LE. That is just the cherry on top. Sweet!

Hey How about Hulk Hogans house? Could be a nice indoor venue . Too bad the Trop wouldn't allow access, I am sure that is unused space a good portion of the year. We have a nice gym here that only costs $20.00 for the season. I am sure it is not a money maker but hey we will take it.

M
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 09:08 AM
A posse ad esse
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by milesperpound View Post
Fine Job Glenn, this is going to turn out really nice. Just when I think I had a good trick for leading edges (adding an extra stringer) you throw in that awesome sheeted LE. That is just the cherry on top. Sweet!

Hey How about Hulk Hogans house? Could be a nice indoor venue . Too bad the Trop wouldn't allow access, I am sure that is unused space a good portion of the year. We have a nice gym here that only costs $20.00 for the season. I am sure it is not a money maker but hey we will take it.

M
There are quite a few vacant, out of business shopping centers around here, but getting permission to get inside to fly models would probably be as much trouble as getting the key to Fort Knox (or Hulk Hogan's house).
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Besides, didn't Hogan sell that house to pay for his son's accident lawsuit?
The sheeted leading edge extends from the leading edge to the first stringer. Was easy enough to do and there's no starved horse look to the covering.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 10:14 AM
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United States, NY, CENTRAL VLY
Joined May 2011
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Excellent work, thoroughly enjoying this one.

After using tissue covering for a few attempts over the years, I've tried my hand at iron on and really like it but seeing this finish has me rethinking...
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 10:23 AM
A posse ad esse
United States, FL, Tampa
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Originally Posted by ausf View Post
Excellent work, thoroughly enjoying this one.

After using tissue covering for a few attempts over the years, I've tried my hand at iron on and really like it but seeing this finish has me rethinking...
I agree. There is something aesthetically pleasing about a tissue and dope finish that's hard to describe. Maybe it's nostalgia in part. Whatever it is, Glenn does a fine job of it and inspires others to give it a try if they haven't, or do more of it if they have.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 11:00 AM
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I'm always trying different things on my builds. This is only the third model I used thinned white glue as the tissue adhesive. There was a bit of a learning curve but I'm getting the process down pretty good now.
The trick is don't thin the glue very much. If it's too thin it will dry so fast you don't have time to reposition the tissue if needed.
The thicker glue give more working time but there's a downside to that too. It is very easy to rip the glue wetted tissue, so care is needed when repositioning.
It's not hard to do but like any covering there is a learning curve.

I perfer to use dope to adhere the tissue but there's no way I could get away with using dope in the house. The bosslady would kill me because of the smell even though it smells the same as nail polish....
Once the framework is covered it goes out to the shop for the finish.

In the pic you can see a fuselage half that was built out of the kit wood. This was rejected due to weight and I started over using parts cut out of genuine balsa wood....
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 01:20 PM
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United States, MI, Paw Paw
Joined Sep 2011
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hey Glenn, what are you using for the bearing tube? I have not been able to find anything to use for this. also, torque rod? lol not sure what thats for/is.. sorry for all the questions
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Bearing tube is a short piece of evergreen plastic tube drilled out to accept the 1/16" dia aluminum tube. The torque rod is what actuates the aileron using a twisting (torque) motion.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 05:42 PM
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The fillets

Fillets? I covered the fuselage and forgot the fillets! Oops.
Oh well, they will just have to be glued to the tissue.

These actually are the best looking fillets I've ever done.
The most time consuming part was cutting an exact pattern to out of card stock.

First the tissue was cut away where the fillet base will be glued to the wing saddle. The base pieces were cut from 1/32" sheet and the wing fitted with a piece of wax paper on the top where the base will rest. The base parts were glued to the fuse sides and set aside to dry.

While that was drying the fillet tops were cut from 1/32" sheet and dry formed by rolling the wood between my fingers. The top was beveled on the upper edge to mate flush with the fuse sides. The front curve was shaped by rolling the xacto handle over the wood to give it a curl. This process was repeated until the parts fit was close.

Next the wing was removed and the tissue cut away where the fillet tops will be glued to the fuse sides. The fillet top is wet slightly on the outside to help the curve and the part glued to the fuse side and base.

Here is the result, no filler was required anywhere!

Glenn
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 08:08 PM
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Melbourne Beach, Florida
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Lovely fillets. Nice work on the tissue job too.

Len
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