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Old Nov 24, 2011, 12:30 PM
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glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
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I get magnets from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categorie...PARTNER=tccgmu
19 bucks for a 900 series kit? I bought one last year and it was like 11 dollars.
Sheesh, that's some serious inflation..
Why is it everything is going up, except my salary....
Glenn
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 12:51 PM
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United States, PA, Grove City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
I get magnets from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categorie...PARTNER=tccgmu
19 bucks for a 900 series kit? I bought one last year and it was like 11 dollars.
Sheesh, that's some serious inflation..
Why is it everything is going up, except my salary....
Glenn
I would have stocked up on some of these a few years back when they were $7.99, if I knew what was coming.
The magnets should be a really good idea for this plane, as you'll need the weight up there anyway.
Bill
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 01:07 PM
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Yeah, tail heavy is a real possibility with this ones short nose.
I'll just have to add clay to the inside of the cowl like the Hellcat.

With the fuselage framework roughed out it's time to build the wing.
I used the plan more as a guide. The leading edge slab was replaced with a smaller strip and the rib profile was modified to fit. The airfoil was changed to more of a Clark Y section. The ribs were also modified to accept the 1/32" leading edge sheeting. This was done for strength and to prevent the covering form having the starved horse look.
Aileron outline drawn onto the plan and the ailerons built in place.
Next up is cut them loose and add the hinge pin and torque rods.
Oh, and no kit ''wood" was harmed in the making of this wing...
Glenn
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 08:33 AM
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A little more work on the fuselage.
The stringers were added then the area above the wing saddle was insert planked. This is done to move the load path through the fuselage out to the skin because the center keel and most of the former will be removed.

Now that the basic wing framework is done it can be mated to the fuselage.
First the wing was fitted into the saddle by sanding the saddle to shape. Wing alignment is checked to ensure everything is square and level.

A piece of 3/16" thick balsa is cut and fitted between the ribs at both the leading and trailing edge to mount the locating pins and retaining magnet onto. Another piece is shaped to fit into the fuse for the magnet mount.

Next the holes for the front wing retaining pins are drilled.
The pin locations are first marked onto the front of former F2.
With the wing rubber banded to the fuselage to hold it tightly in position, a T pin is pushed through former F2 and into the wing pin mount block to mark the hole locations.
The wing is removed and the pin holes drilled.

The wing mount magnets are then glued into pockets routed into the wood.
The toothpick point pins are inserted, the wing remounted with rubber bands and with everything in position the magnet mount block is glued into the fuse.
Once the glue dries the rubber bands are removed and the wing popped out.

The magnet to magnet bond proved to be a bit too strong and the wing difficult to remove.
Replaced the magnet in the wing with a steel washer to reduce the force required to pop the wing off.

Glenn
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 09:34 AM
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I've used the washers with the magnets also on various things, as those little things are strong, when 2 of them are joined N-S!
Given that the Guillows is an A3, one small cheat is to lengthen the fuse a bit, at the nose. Nobody will know the difference. My 28" version has a 1/4" longer nose. It is 28" span, and not the designed 27-3/4" also. We'll take whatever we can get.
Bill
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 12:06 PM
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Near Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
A little more work on the fuselage.
The stringers were added then the area above the wing saddle was insert planked. This is done to move the load path through the fuselage out to the skin because the center keel and most of the former will be removed.

Now that the basic wing framework is done it can be mated to the fuselage.
First the wing was fitted into the saddle by sanding the saddle to shape. Wing alignment is checked to ensure everything is square and level.

A piece of 3/16" thick balsa is cut and fitted between the ribs at both the leading and trailing edge to mount the locating pins and retaining magnet onto. Another piece is shaped to fit into the fuse for the magnet mount.

Next the holes for the front wing retaining pins are drilled.
The pin locations are first marked onto the front of former F2.
With the wing rubber banded to the fuselage to hold it tightly in position, a T pin is pushed through former F2 and into the wing pin mount block to mark the hole locations.
The wing is removed and the pin holes drilled.

The wing mount magnets are then glued into pockets routed into the wood.
The toothpick point pins are inserted, the wing remounted with rubber bands and with everything in position the magnet mount block is glued into the fuse.
Once the glue dries the rubber bands are removed and the wing popped out.

The magnet to magnet bond proved to be a bit too strong and the wing difficult to remove.
Replaced the magnet in the wing with a steel washer to reduce the force required to pop the wing off.

Glenn
Good job on the fillets ! Looking forward to your build.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 09:07 PM
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USA, FL, Tampa
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Ailerons

With the wing mounting complete it's time to set up the ailerons.
First they were cut from the wing.
And that's when I noticed a bit of a problem.

Seems when I penciled in the aileron outlines I drew one a bit smaller at the tip resulting in the ailerons not being the same size.
Rats! rework, I hate rework.
Had to cut the one side apart and fix that before continuing.

I hinge ailerons using a pin on the outboard end and the torque rod is the inboard hinge. A carbon rod pin is glued into the aileron end and a plastic tube glued into the wingtip as the bearing.

The wing trailing edge is sanded to a concave shape using sandpaper wrapped around a bamboo skewer and the aileron leading edge rounded to fit. This forms a nearly gap less hinge line.
The torque rod bearing tubes are glued into holes drilled in the ribs.
Torque rods are 1/16" aluminum tube with 1/32" wire ends.

Next up, aileron linkages.

Glenn
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 08:22 AM
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United States, TX, Kerrville
Joined Dec 2007
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Lots of people talk about how heavy the wood is in Guillows kits. The main reason wood in these kits as well as Sterling and some of the other small kit mfg that use dye cutting for parts, is softer wood simply doesn't dye cut well. Unless the blades are razor sharp and continuously replaced it simply crushes softer balsa. So the mfg use harder wood and soak it before putting them in the press.

The laser cut kits seem to have a better selection of wood because of this. Let's hope Guillows starts laser cutting all their kits!
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 09:41 AM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
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Glenn,

"On the frequency now", as Chris likes to say. Beautiful work on that Hellcat . My larger Guillow's F6F was a great flyer, so it must be in the genes.

Really nice start on the 190, too. Funny thing, after years of me working my way up to bigger models, seems everyone is downsizing these days! I suppose you can pack more of them into a workshop before the missus gets annoyed...

Steve
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Melbourne Beach, Florida
Joined Jan 2002
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Nice work on the ailerons Glenn.

Steve, I think the down sizing is because we finally have equipment that allows us to do it and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I always dreamed of making rubber band kits into RC fliers. It has taken until just recently to get the power systems and lightweight electronics. This is so much fun.

Len
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Ripplewave, Yep, and since the copyright date on this one is 1962 I'm sure those dies have seen their share of wood! I think Guillows realizes they are going to have to replace dies or laser cut. Now that the laser cut conversion of the 400 series has been completed hopefully they will continue updating the other series.

Steve, took me a while to get the Hellcat trimmed and now it's a pretty decent flier. It could use a tad more power though.

Len, that's what got me started on the smaller models. I dreamed or making small models rc too. Also remember drooling over the Canon 'micro' rc equipment that was way too expensive for a kid who was mowing lawns for hobby money. Rubber free flight is all I could afford then.

Now with the AR6400 it's a dream come true.
Another nice thing about the small ones is they are inexpensive to build. I can build a few of them out of a couple of sheets of balsa and some gift box tissue.

Glenn
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 03:07 PM
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after seeing your 190 today, then reading the thread , i now know you ARE just as sick as I. just different symptoms. he he. see ya!
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 04:18 PM
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Thanks Dave,,, I think....
Seeing where the CG is on your 190 is a big help. I might have to use a bigger battery if the model proves to be tail heavy.
BTW, welcome to rc groups! Glad you finally joined in the party.
Glenn
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 06:23 PM
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Aileron linkage

Aileron linkage and servo mount plate complete. The servo will be mounted with canopy glue.
Bellcrank cut from 1/32 ply. The torque rod to bellcrank linkage is bent from .032 and .025 wire connected with heat shrink tubing. Once the control system is set up, the heat shrink will be fixed to the wire with a drop of ca.
Glenn
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 09:45 PM
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United States, TX, Spring
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This looks great Glenn. I must say wow! Excellent work. You're giving me some ideas on my aileron linkage as well. Happy Holidays!
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