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Old Nov 22, 2011, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy2No View Post
Thanks, Thomas. A brake set to on is good.

Did you miss-type that weight? My Loong Max 3s 1300mAh 20C lipos weigh about 115g. I assumed a 40C lipo would weigh considerably more - 25C Loong Max ones weigh more than the 20C ones, not unreasonably.
I did miss read the lipo weight. Corrected to 122 grams.

It was no trouble to solder on the new battery connector in the roomy fuselage area.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by shigetyann View Post
Oh! nice thread!
Great thanks Thomas B.
I'm glad you did the great maiden flight.
I suppose HK Icon seems to be the same figure as NFD Icon from your pictures on #4 reply.
But its gears seem strong enough to do touch and go, besides NFD Icon has weak ones.
Shig, many thanks for joining in on this thread. Your expertise with this Icon model will be very valuable!

I will post some more detailed pictures of the landing gear for you to examine. Based on the exterior of the model, the size and certain detail like the plywood mounting plate in the fuselage, the HK offering seems identical to the NFD model.... Except for the terrible decals!

Given that the smaller NFD icon seems to have vanished from the Internet shops, it seems that Hobby King has an exclusive on it now. I would have preferred getting a kit without electronics, but settled for the HK PnP offering.

Shig, if you would consider copying your great posts about the small Icon from the 1.8m Icon thread and posting them here, it would be a great addition to this thread.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 10:07 AM
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To Thomas B
OK! I'll post with additional pictures.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas B View Post
I did miss read the lipo weight. Corrected to 122 grams.

It was no trouble to solder on the new battery connector in the roomy fuselage area.
Good. My 115g ones should balance it pretty well then.

I never like soldering components that are still attached to a foam plane. It's too easy to slip, or drip solder on it and melt the foam. I suppose I could cover it with towels or something similar. Or I could unbolt the motor, snip the wires and add some bullets, I guess.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 06:08 PM
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The wide and roomy fuse of this Icon makes soldering inside quite easy. With more restricted models, I have used a shield of poster board paper as drip protection as well as protecting the foam from the iron. Did not bother with this model.

Am off on Wed and have a flying session planned with my favorite photographer. We will get some photos of the little Icon in action, looks like.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 12:09 AM
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I'll look forward to the pictures. I hope the weather's good.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 12:58 AM
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I forgot to mention, I have a buddy code to save $4.11 off the small Icon A5 - you have to log in to HobbyKing before clicking the link to get the discount price, I think:

HobbyKing EPO Seaplane - 1090mm (PNF) Save US$: 4.11


It should be valid for the rest of the month, and maybe a couple of days after that.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 07:36 PM
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By an odd coincidence, I was recommended to try the free BMI Flight Simulator (a version of R/C Desk Pilot), and it turns out it has a 1.8m BMI Icon A5 simulation, plus a lake to fly it off:

http://rcdeskpilot.com/blog/1
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 08:49 AM
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Apologies for making four posts in a row

Mine just arrived. I've unpacked it and inspected it but haven't tested the servos, motor or ESC yet.

The quality of the foam is very good. It has a waxy feel to it, which I guess is mould release compound. The foam used for the box is pretty good too (maybe Arcel, definitely not EPS). I'll keep it for repairing other foamies.

I notice it has NFD Hobbies stencilled into the inside of the cockpit.

There's a gouge on the top surface of the horizontal stabiliser, but nothing too serious. It's not from shipping, it must have happened at the factory. The HobbyKing decals were very easy to remove. Some of the others needed peeling back at one corner and smoothing down again. They follow compound curves quite well, but they were evidently applied in a hurry.

My motor didn't turn freely when I first tried it. There seemed to be something catching, maybe a rough edge from machining or even just a blob of hard glue, used to stick on the magnets. After turning it back and forwards for a while, it now turns without catching but maybe I should strip it down and check it properly.

The motor looks like a DYS / Strong Power 2208. There's a HobbyKing sticker on it instead of the usual one stating the Kv. I have a few of those so I could change it fairly easily. I'd have to choose between 1450Kv and 1800Kv.

The ESC is connected to the motor with bullets but the bullets aren't easily accessible. Mine haven't been plugged together very well - they need pushing further together. There's a lot of gold showing and one clearly isnt all the way in. It looks like they connect the ESC to the motor before gluing the motor mount on. As my motor mount isn't glued on very well - one side doesn't have glue on it and can be moved up and down a little - I'll probably just take it off and start again. Maybe I'll lengthen the motor wires to make it easier to change things.

The ESC has a HobbyWing sticker on one side that says 2*10A, and a small sticker on the other side that says 20A. It looks about the right size for an 18A ESC, so 20A could be right.

What bothers me a little more is that my motor mount seems to have been assembled the wrong way round. There's a thrust line correction built into it but it points the wrong way. The (back) end of the motor shaft points a couple of degrees towards the left side of the tail, so the thrust line passes the right side of the nose, pushing it to the left instead of to the right.

The prop spins the normal way (CCW, as seen from the front) so the thrust angle should point the end of the shaft towards the right side of the tail. As it is, it would need more trim to correct it, and different amounts of trim for different airspeeds.

The top and bottom plywood plates on the motor mount must be upside down. Hopefully, it won't be too hard to dismantle it and correct the problem. They don't seem to have used much glue on it.

The canopy latch seems effective, but when I first removed the canopy, I twisted the peg to release it and it popped out and flew a couple of feet across the room. If it did that at the flying field, I'd probably never find it again. I need to make it captive, somehow, or maybe just ditch it and use magnets instead.

The top of the rudder touches the fin so I'll cut a sliver away to make a proper gap. The water rudder is pressed onto the steerable fitting for it, but not glued. I guess that's intentional. It needs to be done when you set the neutral positions for the servos and control surfaces.

No doubt every one of these will have slightly different problems to sort out. I didn't really expect it to be perfect, for that price. I had to do much more work on my supposedly plug and fly Parkzone T-28 Trojan when I got it, and that was a lot more expensive. It's a good looking little plane and seems well worth the money.
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 09:27 PM
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The twist lock canopy latch can be easily corrected with a tiny ring of 1/32 ply and an O-ring to prevent the latch from falling out of the canopy. Use the ring of 1/32 ply glued to the shaft exit to keep the O-ring from slipping up into the oversize latch shaft hole in the canopy.

The shiny finish of the model appears to be some sort of clear coat, as it is not the same in hidden parts of the model. It does give a nice clear finish. My large Icon was done the same way.

Did get another flight in, but my photographer had to cancel....The model was not quite as well behaved landing in dead calm conditions as it was with a slight headwind. the speed had to be kept well up and it was harder to get a nice landing. Still fun to fly, but did need attention at low speeds close to the ground.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Hi, Everyone.

I have two ICON-A5s by NFD hobby s288, and this type is now selling in HK.

The first one I got was last November. At that time, some person had already finished maiden flights.
It was pretty exciting model, because its style has great originality. I thought I had to have something new and get more extra items to be more gorgeous appareled.

It was my big trial. When the first ICON-A5 was completed, its weight is 620 gram including 3 cell 1300mAh Lipo.
I got great satisfaction from lights flushed, went down flaps and worked three-blade propeller, even though its weight was slightly heavy. Id never been anxious about flights, as its airfoil is S-camber type.

At first I introduce my first s288 ICON-A5 with some extra gimmicks, just before maiden flight.

ICON A5 NFD HOBBY Finished with Extra Items Just before Maiden Flight (1 min 9 sec)
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Thomas,

I was thinking of gluing a fibre washer onto the peg, but that sounds good too. Is your O ring just push fitted?

Have you measured the current with the stock prop? I guess if my motor is still rubbing on something inside, it would show up as a higher current and lower rpm.

shigetyann,

Is that the 1.09m model? Did those scale decals come with the kit?

EDIT: I see it says 1090mm at the start of the video. Where did you get the decals?

What prop did you use? I assume you cut some off the tips?

The lights look good.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomas B View Post
The model was not quite as well behaved landing in dead calm conditions as it was with a slight headwind. the speed had to be kept well up and it was harder to get a nice landing. Still fun to fly, but did need attention at low speeds close to the ground.
It sounds like it might be worth adding the flaps. I don't have a single model with working flaps (though I have a couple set up for spoilerons), and this seemed a bit small to really need them, but maybe not.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2No View Post
Thomas,

I was thinking of gluing a fibre washer onto the peg, but that sounds good too. Is your O ring just push fitted?

Have you measured the current with the stock prop? I guess if my motor is still rubbing on something inside, it would show up as a higher current and lower rpm.

shigetyann,

Is that the 1.09m model? Did those scale decals come with the kit?

EDIT: I see it says 1090mm at the start of the video. Where did you get the decals?

What prop did you use? I assume you cut some off the tips?

The lights look good.
Before HobbyKing took over the NFD model, it was available from several suppliers as a kit and came with the scale decals he has.

The O-ring is a simple friction fit.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 02:55 PM
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I see. Thanks, Thomas.
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