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Old Mar 02, 2013, 12:28 AM
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Znybar, mhills51 Thank you gentlemen.
To continue, I looked at mounting the ESC at the front and I could put it there without too much trouble. No clearance issues etc. however, cooling would not be near as good even if I cut holes in the canopy. Cooling may be an issue as I bought the 120A ESC while trying to decide between a HKing motor and a Scorpion4035. Then some how I ended up hitting the "buy" button for a Scorpion4525 520KV Ult. (I was just saying to the wife, I still don't know how that happened I think I'll go with "involuntary muscle spasm") So now I am concerned my ESC will be stressed so I want the best cooling I can get.

With the ESC side mounted I will have about 3" of space between the ESC and the Rx. Also there is C/F between them ie. no sight line between them without passing through the C/F. I don't know if that helps??

Also, also Any concern with having the HV battery wires passing within an inch or 2 from the Rx.
The big question I guess is will this set up be safe for the Rx/reception????

Thanks again.
Kerry
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 04:43 AM
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I'd avoid heavy current going anywhere near the RX if possible, remember that electric currents release electromagnetic waves, and you don't want that right next to a receiver!

I don't think heat buildup will be an issue with teh ESC on the normal mount. At the least, you can do some running tests at 80% throttle to start with and see how hard you're pushing the unit.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 11:42 PM
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ESC mounting

How about one of these options?
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I am guessing but I think that the flat side of the ESC that needs the cooling and should face out?
I am hoping that one of these gets me far enough from the Rx.

Kerry
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 02:52 AM
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I'd go for the top one. It should be ok, though I'd bend the lipo leads to go towards the front as well.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Znybar View Post
I'd go for the top one. It should be ok, though I'd bend the lipo leads to go towards the front as well.
I have the battery leads exiting the back where I had planned to swing them forward to plug into the ESC under the landing gear leg. I like to have the canopy secured before I go to the flight line so I position the battery connectors at the back somewhere. (at least thats what I did on my 6S helis)
Are you saying bend the battery leads from the ESC toward the front, with the leads from the battery exiting the front and running back ? I could probably do it that way also. I would just build longer battery wires so that I could still plug in outside the canopy.
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Thanks again for your input on these issues.
Kerry
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Last edited by Helitime; Mar 03, 2013 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 04:45 PM
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Correct, I'd have the battery leads running towards the front if you can. Given the ESC though you're very limited with your choices! I've also got the Dlux BEC on mine, we should be able to discuss whether we get any issues (setting up the low voltage alarm is a bit of a pain!)
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Znybar View Post
Correct, I'd have the battery leads running towards the front if you can. Given the ESC though you're very limited with your choices! I've also got the Dlux BEC on mine, we should be able to discuss whether we get any issues (setting up the low voltage alarm is a bit of a pain!)
Fun and games there
I have spent 2 nights adjusting that thing while charging and discharging the Rx pack. The fine adjustment doesn't seem to do anything. With the pack at 3.8V/cell I set it so that it just starts to alarm then charge to 4V/cell and it's still going off. With this setting I adjusted the fine adjust to min and max at both 3.8V and 4.0V>>no change.

I understand I am adjusting to pack voltage, just using cell voltage as a reference. More playing to do yet but at least it's off with a full pack. I think the amount of amps your pulling will effect the point the alarm starts.

Kerry
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 08:48 PM
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Yeah I'm thinking of taking the alarm off. Don't think I'd use it much anyway, I'm rather conservative with my lipo use. As it is it's looking more trouble than it's worth.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:31 PM
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Yup, I'm the same. Never had a heli flight pack get below 3.8V/cell and the Rx pack is still 4V/cell after 3 flights on my 600. With only 1 set of flight batteries I will have plenty of time to monitor the Rx pack (3S,1000mah) and just strap on something larger if needed.
Unfortnatley I have no experience with 12S or HV servos or 700 size heli. Time to get some I guess

Kerry
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:28 PM
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hello fellas i am trying to setup a ebar v2. I have it all setup thru the ppc, when i manually yaw the heli or tilt it forward, back, left and right. It does what it should be doing. Problem is when i try to move the aileron, and elevator on the controller nothing happens nor does the rudder move with the controller. The only thing that works is the throttle pitch, all three servos move up and down?????????
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Elec 1800 View Post
hello fellas i am trying to setup a ebar v2. I have it all setup thru the ppc, when i manually yaw the heli or tilt it forward, back, left and right. It does what it should be doing. Problem is when i try to move the aileron, and elevator on the controller nothing happens nor does the rudder move with the controller. The only thing that works is the throttle pitch, all three servos move up and down?????????

Sounds like you've got the data cable from ebar to rx reversed on the rx side.

I know........"smart a$$"

Kerry
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Helitime View Post
Sounds like you've got the data cable from ebar to rx reversed on the rx side.

I know........"smart a$$"

Kerry
Kerry u can remove "a$$" and just leave smart because you are correct. Problem fixed.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 11:00 PM
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Kerry u can remove "a$$" and just leave smart because you are correct. Problem fixed.

Thanks
Mike
No sir, can't do that cuz I only wish I was smart.
I am involved in the EBar thread where you posted your "brain fart".

Kerry
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 03:35 PM
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550 Help

Hi All,

I am getting ready to get a KDS 550. What do you think of this setup?

KDS Innova 550 V2 from HobbyKing
Turnigy T600 Brushless outrunner
YEP 150a SBEC ESC
Savox 1250 cyclic servos x 3
Savox 1290 rudder servo
Spectrum AR7200BX gyro

My real question is do I need a UBEC if I go with the YEP 150a. The 150a has 5.5v/6a switching BEC

Thanks, any replies are much appreciated.
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by trhodes View Post
Hi All,

I am getting ready to get a KDS 550. What do you think of this setup?

KDS Innova 550 V2 from HobbyKing
Turnigy T600 Brushless outrunner
YEP 150a SBEC ESC
Savox 1250 cyclic servos x 3
Savox 1290 rudder servo
Spectrum AR7200BX gyro

My real question is do I need a UBEC if I go with the YEP 150a. The 150a has 5.5v/6a switching BEC

Thanks, any replies are much appreciated.
The YEP 120hv is probably more than enough(I think) at 1/2 the cost (HKing). Requires a separate BEC. Safer and still a lot cheaper.
I Googled your servos, not familiar with the name but they are not very strong or fast. Something around 4kg torque and .11 sec. @ 6V. HKing has RJX HV servos that are about $13 more each but 2X faster and 4X more torque at 6V and will take 8.4V if you want. I just got some, all metal gear train, crazy fast and torque up the yahoo.

Something to look at if nothing more.
Hope this helps
Kerry
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