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Old Feb 24, 2012, 10:58 PM
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I use a 1" piece of clear spiral wrap on my 9116 tail boom to prevent fly bar strikes. It is less visible than black plastic materials. I reinforce the inside of the canopy where fly bar strikes it with epoxy to reduce fly bar damage there.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 11:11 PM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Eugene,

The heatshrink might be there to help absorb vibrations, acting like a dampner to isolate residual vibrations from the pcb and then transferring it to the outer metal case of the gyro.

Hot melt glue is too tough and wouldn't dampen vibrations as well as other compounds could, it would just make it more ridgidly fixed to the board. I'd personally use a silicon based window sealant, as it is still rubbery when set and it will absorb any residual vibrations being transferred to it via the pcb.

Appling a small "dob" of silicon sealant to the underside of the pcb, between the battery bracket pcb support will also help remove transferred vibrations.

But it depends on how pedantic you want to get about trying to eradicate residual vibrations.

Personally, I just fly the thing and if I can't fly through the problem, then I go looking for solutions.
I used the hot glue on the base only just to steady the board I didn't cover the whole thing in glue it's just that I noticed the board vibrating when I was doing my obsevations and after putting on the hot glue at the base of the board the vibrating stoped.

I got the idea from a thread here on the forum talking about vibration problems with the 450 Head Lock Gyro so they coverd it with hot glue at the base of the doglegs up to the unit and it fixed the problem and the gyro was more responsive and put a stop to the drifting caused by the vibration and also the slight tail wagging as well.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 11:11 PM
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I found epoxy would fall off, so I now use fibreglass reinforcing tape (mesh type) for sealing cardboard boxes, you can get it in various widths and is super strong and adds little to the over all weight of the canopy, so there is virtually no difference in overall balance, but it does really help with the occasional bar strike.

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Old Feb 24, 2012, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
I used the hot glue on the base only just to steady the board I didn't cover the whole thing in glue it's just that I noticed the board vibrating when I was doing my obsevations and after putting on the hot glue at the base of the board the vibrating stoped.

I got the idea from a thread here on the forum talking about vibration problems with the 450 Head Lock Gyro so they coverd it with hot glue at the base of the doglegs up to the unit and it fixed the problem and the gyro was more responsive and put a stop to the drifting caused by the vibration and also the slight tail wagging as well.
Sorry, I must have mis-understood.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
I found epoxy would fall off, so I now use fibreglass reinforcing tape (mesh type) for sealing cardboard boxes, you can get it in various widths and is super strong and adds little to the over all weight of the canopy, so there is virtually no difference in overall balance, but it does really help with the occasional bar strike.

Yea. The epoxy fell off the canopy the first time I used it . The second time I roughed up the surface first. Seems to be holding this time. If it fails, I will try the tape.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rcwatchman View Post
The how to on the direct drive tail motor can be found on page 82, report # 1216 of this thread. Below you will find the TX settings that gave me a relatively good hover indoors. Also below you will find pictures of what I added that affect the weight. I had added a rubber bumper to the main tail boom, and a rubber strap on the canopy held in place by Velcro. I know these add some weight, but I got really tired of the uncontrollable damage caused by the fly bar when I landed a little too hard. I just adjusted the settings on the TX to compensate. I may lose a little fly time but I have had no damage since I put them in place.

Now the following are the settings I changed on the TX to give me a good hover indoors. All other settings are as it came out of the box.

To the question if it was tail heavy after the DD up-grade. Maybe a little, but I also cut away the ring gear and housing and the blade being moved forward did not hurt. The rest was easily corrected with the setting of the sub elevator on the TX.

TX Settings I changed after up-grades. I started with a fully charged battery. As you continue to work with the setup and the battery starts to weaken they will drift some. The final settings below work well for me with a fully charged battery.

ELEV SUB……..F 045
AILE SUB……...L 050
RUDD SUB……R 115
ELEV EPA……..085 %

If you are having trouble with bending the nylon servo arm, ELEV EPA F is the one you want to work with. That’s it, Fly for fun…
hey rcwatchman.

I noticed your rudd sub trim and I've worked out why it is so high to the right.

Since you put in the N60 motor and run it as a DD, the motor, if it has the same polarity as the oem, is now spining clockwise, but the rtf-heli DD blade is meant to run counter clockwise. So the motor is now spining clockwise and the DD blade is meant to run counter clockwise. The blade is pushing the air left, hence the large trim setting to the right, but it's not doing it efficiently, so it will be somewhat weak and will be susceptable to tail wagging, by the gyro trying to compensate.

You need a blade that is meant to spin clockwise with the rotation of the motor, not against it. Then all you would need is to do is add a liitle bit of left rudder trim, to slow it down, from the added rotor speed of the DD motor, or get a smaller blade, so it doesn't grab as much air and push as hard.

To keep this configuration, the oem kestrel tail blade might be the go, as the rtf-heli blade is 80mm counter-clockwise pitch angle and the kestrel oem blade is 65mm clockwise pitch angle, and I think the kestrel also runs a N30 tail motor, which won't be as strong as the N60, but between the oem and N60, so it might be a good match for a DD system.

The other option is to reverse the polarity of the N60 motor, so it will now run counter-clockwise, with the direction of the pitch angle of the blade, which will now push the air right, so you can add left sub trim to slow it down so it maintains the right amount of push to match the motor and keep the tail straight.

Plus I bet with the Xtreme 180 motor in it, it is drifting back and to the right. This is because of the extra torque the xtreme motor puts out, this can be mechanically trimmed out by adjusting the servo arm / swashplate links. Shorten the aileron link so the swash tilts more to the right, and lengthen the elevator link to tilt the swash more to the front, to compensate.

Just some food for thought.
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Last edited by stormforce; Feb 25, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2012, 12:58 AM
Eugene
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Ok looking at the OEM unit the motor spins in reverse to make the blade spin counter clockwize so check to see if the motor is working in reverse if it is then take off the tail blade you have and flip it over or put the 9116 OEM one on and see how that works, if it isn't in reverse then reverse the polarity on the motor and you might have to reverse the servo input in the TX as well to get the right responce from the sticks.
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Last edited by Whizgig; Feb 25, 2012 at 01:34 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2012, 01:31 AM
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As long as the air is still being pushed to the right, and the thrust is pushing against the main motor torque (hence why it is called the "anti-rotation control"), one does not need to reverse the tx rudd sub trim, it doesn't matter in which direction the motor is spinning. The sticks will still act in the same way as before.
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Last edited by stormforce; Feb 25, 2012 at 01:45 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2012, 01:50 AM
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Yea. The epoxy fell off the canopy the first time I used it . The second time I roughed up the surface first. Seems to be holding this time. If it fails, I will try the tape.
I did the same too, roughed it up a bit first before using epoxy, but it still didn't hold, it just took a bit longer to fall off.

Before applying the tape make sure you give it a good wipe out, to remove any dust, then give it a quick wipe it out with dampened cloth soaked with acetone (nail polish remover). Acetone will melt the plastic surface slightly and make it sticky for a short while, then apply the fibreglass tape and it will bond permanently to it.

I also use a few layers of clear heatshrink tubing over that area of the tail boom to protect it from balance bar strikes. And being clear, it's hardly noticeable.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 02:27 AM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by J_skaggs View Post
Yea. The epoxy fell off the canopy the first time I used it . The second time I roughed up the surface first. Seems to be holding this time. If it fails, I will try the tape.
I use this tape allot for model planes ect I have never had it fall off even on the outside of the plane its also a good wing strenthener as well for gliders
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 02:29 AM
Eugene
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Has anyone tryied to fly it without the flybar??
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 04:01 AM
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I don't think thats possible, eugene, considering it's part of the rotor head, but if the wire was cut off???

I think it would be uncontrollable without one, plus without a better gyro, you'd be asking for trouble. Maybe move the weights closer to the centre might be the go, but I'm sure they are there for a reason, to slow response.
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Last edited by stormforce; Feb 25, 2012 at 04:13 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2012, 04:09 AM
still a lot to learn!!!!
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Couldn't you just unclip it from the top of the inner shaft ????? What would happen Is another thing altogether
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Last edited by Auflyer; Feb 25, 2012 at 04:17 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2012, 04:21 AM
Eugene
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I will unclip it and try I'll let you know how it goes

Nope it becomes a little frog jumping wildly around the floor
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 04:30 AM
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you have the balance bar connected to the swivel thing on the blade grips, which in turn, is connected to the swashplate, so the angle of the swashplate via the servos, can't act upon the blades to make them tilt to make the heli, bank or go forward or backward.

As I wrote earlier, it would make it uncontrolable and it would crash for sure, just look what happens when the blade pivots break off the inner shaft, poor response from the servos and massive TBE.
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