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Old Dec 28, 2011, 11:57 PM
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...jeez the things that happen while I was away for a nap !!!

Thetis,

It's pretty easy to physically change the TX sticks movements from Mode 1 to Mode 2 if you feel confident of having a go. It will take about 1/2 an hour or 45 minutes work and will only require a medium "jewellers" or "hobby" type, phillips head (+) screwdriver.

Unfortunately, you'll have to crack open the back of the TX. I did this to my usb TX for my sim as I unknowingly purchased a mode 1 Sim TX, but really wanted a Mode 2 Sim TX (I was such a noob, I didn't even know there was such things as "modes" in TX's!!!).

Anyway, remove all of your batteries and remove the 6 screws in the back of the main body and two smaller screws in the handle with the medium phillips head jewellers screwdriver. Gently open the back of the TX and slip out the antenna pole from the back of the body, leaving it to remain on the front of the body. If you feel inclined slip out the red and black wired battery power plug from the mainboard.

Next, look inside the back of the TX and you'll see the back of the sticks, move the stick you want to make into the throttle up and down (as you'd use it as a throttle) and you'll see a small coiled spring stretch and retract, that's the spring you want to remove, it is usually held in place by a small notched arm in the mechanism that works that side of the stick and a similar device on the stick housing itself. Remove the top ring shaped part of the spring only from the side plate of the housing at this stage (you'll work out how, it's pretty self evident). Remove both screws on the top of the side plate and gently insert a medium jewellers screwdriver or similar between the inside of the side plate itself and the finely notched radius arm, and gently pry it up and away from the notched radius arm. When you've got it out, you can slip free the bottom ring shaped part of the spring from the stick,if it hasn't fallen away already. Put the spring and the side plate to one side for the time being.

Remove the screw from metal lever type spring that is rubbing along the top of the opposite stick's finely notched radius arm and it's adjacent screw from the side plate of the stick you want to make the throttle, turn it 180 degrees and slip the side plate into the recesses where you took the other one from, and and push it home, in the process making sure the stick axle is also within the hole in the side plate (wriggle to stick to re-center the axle into the hole if needed), replace the top screw and position the angled part of the spring lever along the notched radius arm and screw it in checking the tension of the spring lever to make sure it feels ok to you. It should be free but with a slight "notchy" feel and some minor resistance.

Re-connect all the battery power plug, if you removed it when you first opened the back of the TX.

Re-install the screws and batteries and turn the unit on. Double check that everything works within acceptable parameters, but taking into account the new adjustments to the sticks and make sure the stick movements correspond to the actions displayed on the LCD screen for Mode 2.

You should now be good to go.

You've now physically converted a Mode 1 TX into a Mode 2 TX. Because you know how to easy it is to program the TX to be mode 2, you don't need to do anything more.

I actually physically opened up the back of my TX to make sure the instructions I gave were as precise and detailed as possible.

My TX for my DH9116 is Mode 2, it matches all the other heli's I have except my Walkera 22E, which is Mode 1. I'd love to convert the Walkera TX to Mode 2, but I'll have to physically move some of the wires over as well as the relevant stick mechanisms to suit, and I can't be bothered doing it, at this stage. Maybe later on, once I get proficient at this 4ch heli flying lark.

Anyway, good luck, I'll be floating around online for the next couple of hours and over the next 4 days, if you need any further help.

I also use Windows Live Messaging (the old MSN Messenger), Yahoo Messenger, Steam Messenger and ICQ, if you need some real time chat help. My profile should tell you what my relevant usernames are. Just send me a PM and tell me which one you'd prefer to use and I'll start up the program and jump online and have a chat.

Mick.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
BTW Mick,

I saw the post you gave Thetis above with all the controller settings and I was wondering if you have ever tried changing any of the cyclical range adjustments to 120? If you have the box on the 'Q' switch, you can do that. It kind of gives you a little more to work with, in the way of control. It makes a huge difference when it's breezy, I think.
I've only adjusted the same as you've posted on here, I'm still learning what does what, and haven't got that far yet.

So what do you recommend, 120? Which setting is that? The elevator or aileron trim?

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 29, 2011 at 12:47 AM.
Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:00 AM
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Oh, I forgot to mention, if you pull back on the forward / backward stick too hard, there is a possiblility of the balance / flybar hitting the tail boom. It will crash the heli if this happens. It will dent the tail boom and bend it slightly, but it can be straightened easily, whilst still on the heli.

Also the tail rotor and motor assembly can, after a while, become a bit loose and the tail rotor will twist on the tail boom, making the tail push slightly up or down (usually up), which can affect the stability of a hover, making it yaw further than it normally should. I haven't found a fix for it yet, but a small dab of CA may help it to stop moving. This movement will also enlarge the holes for the screws in the tail boom mounting block where the tail boom mounts between the two side frames, so re-tightening the screws occasionally that holds the tail boom in the tail boom block will help re-strain it from that end. I'd also advise on checking every screw on the heli, especially the screw located near the main motor and main gear, the vibrations do make the screws un-wind, so the occasional tighten won't hurt. If you are really keen, maybe a drop of Loctite 425 Blue thread locking compound to the screws thread will definately help to stop that. Any time I have to repair or re-build some part of my heli's, always gets a small amount loctite to the screws upon re-assembly, it also helps when re-assembling the main gear back onto the main shaft, it stops it from coming loose on the shaft, and eventually enlarging the hole the main gear / shaft screw goes into, actually anything that a screw goes through the main shaft would benefit from a drop of loctite, just to minimise the eventual wear and tear and help reduce any free play between the shaft and any fittings. When it is unscrewed or dis-assembled for repair, the loctite will just turn to powder and is easily removed with a good scrub of an old firm bristled toothbrush or a small "toothbrush" sized copper or nylon "wire" brush.

Because this heli is an improvement on the DH9100, it still has some of it's design flaws. One noteable flaw is just behind the tail motor where the tail drive sprocket protection and drive axle housing is a weak point, right behind where one of the screws goes. If you flex this area slightly, you'll see what I mean. I have previously applied a good drop of 5 min epoxy to this area to re-inforce it, as I had this area completely snap off on my DH9100 when I had a bad landing. It may never happen to you, but this re-inforcement will help to stop it from breaking in the future.

Also, a small piece of wire (or in my case a small length of appropriate diameter sized drill bit, 5/16" I think), inserted inside the inner shaft, between the inside top of the inner shaft and the inside of the main shaft but stopping before the retaining screw, will also help re-inforce the top of the inner shaft from snapping off if the heli crashes on it's side, therefore having the main blades stike the ground. This type of crash too often will eventually shear the top off the inner shaft, separating the main rotor blades from the heli itself, and you'll loose the two 'dogbone" linkages from the swashplate and the rotor head.

I hope this information helps you all to keep this great little heli airbourne for many months, and hopefully years to come, without too many repairs.

Mick.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
I've only adjusted the same as you've posted on here, I'm still learning what does what, and haven't got that far yet.

So what do you recommend, 120? Which setting is that? The elevator or aileron trim?

Mick.
After I made the trim adjustments in the Tx, which corrected several issues(especially the left-lean problem), I noticed that my heli would not fly to the right as well as it could fly to the left. I wasn't sure if that had something to do with the 10:00 swashplate tilt, or making the trim adjustment to compensate for the left lean. Or maybe a combination of the two. Anyway, last week when I was flying on the few days it was breezy, I had caught a wind that was coming from approx. 2:00 directrion based on the orientation of my heli. So I leaned into the wind (forward/right on the stick). But, with stick all the way to the right, I could not beat the wind. It kept blowing my heli backwards. So, I went into the Tx and changed the AILE travel to 120 to see if that would make it lean enough to the right to fight through the wind, and it did!
I haven't changed the travel setting on the ELEV control. It seems to be ok. I might try changing it a little maybe, like to 110 and see what that does.

~Mike
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 09:56 AM
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BTW Mick,

I found those batteries you have on ebay. I ordered a 2 pack for $12.49US. They are coming from Hong Kong, so I probably won't see then for a couple of weeks.

It's a good thing you don't have access to 'hobby grade' stuff outside of the internet, because I forgot how badly those guys over charge. I called a couple of local hobby shops to see what they had in the way of 7.4v Li-Po batteries. One guy had an 800mAh and wanted $26.99 for it and the other guy had the same and wanted $29.99 for it! That's almost 5 times what you can get them online for. So, I have to wait a couple of weeks. It's worth it.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:09 PM
Always, against the wind
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Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
...jeez the things that happen while I was away for a nap !!!

Thetis,

It's pretty easy to physically change the TX sticks movements from Mode 1 to Mode 2 if you feel confident of having a go. It will take about 1/2 an hour or 45 minutes work and will only require a medium "jewellers" or "hobby" type, phillips head (+) screwdriver.

Unfortunately, you'll have to crack open the back of the TX. I did this to my usb TX for my sim as I unknowingly purchased a mode 1 Sim TX, but really wanted a Mode 2 Sim TX (I was such a noob, I didn't even know there was such things as "modes" in TX's!!!).

Anyway, remove all of your batteries and remove the 6 screws in the back of the main body and two smaller screws in the handle with the medium phillips head jewellers screwdriver. Gently open the back of the TX and slip out the antenna pole from the back of the body, leaving it to remain on the front of the body. If you feel inclined slip out the red and black wired battery power plug from the mainboard.

Next, look inside the back of the TX and you'll see the back of the sticks, move the stick you want to make into the throttle up and down (as you'd use it as a throttle) and you'll see a small coiled spring stretch and retract, that's the spring you want to remove, it is usually held in place by a small notched arm in the mechanism that works that side of the stick and a similar device on the stick housing itself. Remove the top ring shaped part of the spring only from the side plate of the housing at this stage (you'll work out how, it's pretty self evident). Remove both screws on the top of the side plate and gently insert a medium jewellers screwdriver or similar between the inside of the side plate itself and the finely notched radius arm, and gently pry it up and away from the notched radius arm. When you've got it out, you can slip free the bottom ring shaped part of the spring from the stick,if it hasn't fallen away already. Put the spring and the side plate to one side for the time being.

Remove the screw from metal lever type spring that is rubbing along the top of the opposite stick's finely notched radius arm and it's adjacent screw from the side plate of the stick you want to make the throttle, turn it 180 degrees and slip the side plate into the recesses where you took the other one from, and and push it home, in the process making sure the stick axle is also within the hole in the side plate (wriggle to stick to re-center the axle into the hole if needed), replace the top screw and position the angled part of the spring lever along the notched radius arm and screw it in checking the tension of the spring lever to make sure it feels ok to you. It should be free but with a slight "notchy" feel and some minor resistance.

Re-connect all the battery power plug, if you removed it when you first opened the back of the TX.

Re-install the screws and batteries and turn the unit on. Double check that everything works within acceptable parameters, but taking into account the new adjustments to the sticks and make sure the stick movements correspond to the actions displayed on the LCD screen for Mode 2.

You should now be good to go.

You've now physically converted a Mode 1 TX into a Mode 2 TX. Because you know how to easy it is to program the TX to be mode 2, you don't need to do anything more.

I actually physically opened up the back of my TX to make sure the instructions I gave were as precise and detailed as possible.

My TX for my DH9116 is Mode 2, it matches all the other heli's I have except my Walkera 22E, which is Mode 1. I'd love to convert the Walkera TX to Mode 2, but I'll have to physically move some of the wires over as well as the relevant stick mechanisms to suit, and I can't be bothered doing it, at this stage. Maybe later on, once I get proficient at this 4ch heli flying lark.

Anyway, good luck, I'll be floating around online for the next couple of hours and over the next 4 days, if you need any further help.

I also use Windows Live Messaging (the old MSN Messenger), Yahoo Messenger, Steam Messenger and ICQ, if you need some real time chat help. My profile should tell you what my relevant usernames are. Just send me a PM and tell me which one you'd prefer to use and I'll start up the program and jump online and have a chat.

Mick.
Thanks for the detailed explanation and offer to help. Well, I have unscrewed all but one and I think finally I have damaged the head so I quit. I have never seen so tight screws. When I ordered from Amazon I did not know the mode 1&2 Tx differences and I was not offered a choice anyway. I guess I stuck with mode 1 now which I have to learn and master. All of my other helis are mode 2. Not a happy camper so far. I will post later today my first flight impressions.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
BTW Mick,

I found those batteries you have on ebay. I ordered a 2 pack for $12.49US. They are coming from Hong Kong, so I probably won't see then for a couple of weeks.

It's a good thing you don't have access to 'hobby grade' stuff outside of the internet, because I forgot how badly those guys over charge. I called a couple of local hobby shops to see what they had in the way of 7.4v Li-Po batteries. One guy had an 800mAh and wanted $26.99 for it and the other guy had the same and wanted $29.99 for it! That's almost 5 times what you can get them online for. So, I have to wait a couple of weeks. It's worth it.
Mike, do you mind posting the ebay link, I am interested too.Thanks
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 03:55 PM
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7.4v 900mAh 20C Li-Po Batteries

Here is the link Chris...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170509128177...84.m1439.l2649
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
Thanks
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 04:34 PM
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Does price mean that much???

I am new at this and I started with 2 SYMA S033g and have had lots of fun. Well I started looking for something with a little more sophistication and decided on the Double Horse 9116. It seems to be built quite good and you tube clips show it to fly very strong in the right hands. The price of this copter is very reasonable. Is there that much difference between quality and the huge difference I am finding on price. I guess I just want to know that I made a good choice in moving forward. Thanks for any input…
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Thetis View Post
Thanks for the detailed explanation and offer to help. Well, I have unscrewed all but one and I think finally I have damaged the head so I quit. I have never seen so tight screws. When I ordered from Amazon I did not know the mode 1&2 Tx differences and I was not offered a choice anyway. I guess I stuck with mode 1 now which I have to learn and master. All of my other helis are mode 2. Not a happy camper so far. I will post later today my first flight impressions.
Thetis,

Please explain what you mean by "damaged the head"? I'd love to help as much as possible, to get your TX switched to Mode 2. if you mean you've stripped the screw head, I feel for ya. Done it many times myself. I usually use a pair of long nosed pliers or a hemostat to work the screw out (it would be useless by now and not very affective) and go to my stash of screws I recover from everything I intend to throw away, match one with the rest and continue on. I'd recommend to all, if you have any RC gear that no longer works, rather than just throwing the whole thing away in disgust, recover all the screws, wires and any other parts you think maybe useful, before disposing of them. They are always handy later on for other projects.

Using a Mode 1 TX will either totally screw with your head or make you slightly ambidextrous. My Walkera is Mode 1, and other than the throttle and cyclic sticks are swapped over, the yaw and rudder are still the same. I had a few issues to start with, but when I was using the walkera, I hardly noticed the difference between the two. But, I am slightly ambidextrous anyway.

New TX's are available from time to time on ebay from Hong Kong, I don't know about a choice of Mode 1 or 2, but if you do purchase one you can ask.

Here's a link for a broad spektrum search for a 9116 helicopter;

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?LH...4.l1581&_pgn=1

Whole RTF kits, as well as individual parts are listed. Please remember this is via the Australian eBay website, you may wish to do a similar search in the U.S eBay website. As I do, save this search in the 'saved search" listing in "My eBay" and you'll receive an email everyday with newly listed items, that way, you won't have to wade through every single page of listings, which there can be 100's.

Mick.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 07:00 PM
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Well, my 9116 is dead. It's been working great and finally have been able to fly the last 3 days with almost perfect conditions. Then, today I take it out after a charge and the main rotor will not turn. The tail rotor and all the servos are working, just nothing from the main 'engine' so to speak. I left an email with the seller I bought it from to see what can be done.

Seriously bummed...
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
BTW Mick,

I found those batteries you have on ebay. I ordered a 2 pack for $12.49US. They are coming from Hong Kong, so I probably won't see then for a couple of weeks.

It's a good thing you don't have access to 'hobby grade' stuff outside of the internet, because I forgot how badly those guys over charge. I called a couple of local hobby shops to see what they had in the way of 7.4v Li-Po batteries. One guy had an 800mAh and wanted $26.99 for it and the other guy had the same and wanted $29.99 for it! That's almost 5 times what you can get them online for. So, I have to wait a couple of weeks. It's worth it.
Well done Mike,

Yeah, I tend to agree with you when comparing online shopping to local retail shopping prices. I am into Bowhunting and 3D archery as another passionate interest, and when I compare the prices from sellers online or from eBay to my local guy, the price of the same or similar products is usually double, if not triple the price, even when you factor in the shipping costs from overseas. I understand the need for retailers to cover their overheads and make a profit, but sometimes they really do push the limits. The main issue I have between shopping online and shopping locally is, locally you can physically check to see if the item will suit your needs, whereas with an online purchase, it is all guess work, and based on the assumption that the seller has documented the description accurately. But for the cheaper price, sometimes it is worth purchasing the item just to find out, and ultimately, if you get something you find is not suitable for you, it can alway pass onto friends who may find it useful or more suited to their needs. I'm a firm believer in swapping or trading stuff or just giving things way I find not suitable. I've already lost the money, which usually isn't a great amount, so if an item can help someone else, it's not totally wasted.

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 29, 2011 at 07:17 PM.
Old Dec 29, 2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
Well, my 9116 is dead. It's been working great and finally have been able to fly the last 3 days with almost perfect conditions. Then, today I take it out after a charge and the main rotor will not turn. The tail rotor and all the servos are working, just nothing from the main 'engine' so to speak. I left an email with the seller I bought it from to see what can be done.

Seriously bummed...
Damn, and you were going so well with it too. Was it working fine before the charge? Nothing unusual happened to the heli between it's last successful flight and you putting it on charge?

It's a pity we aren't closer to each other, I've got two spare main motors sitting here ready to go in.

Can you move the motor at all? is it still free spinning? maybe one of the wires has come loose or broken off completely. They are fairly fragile and can break off quite easily. It's not un-common for the excessive heat from the motor to weaken a solder joint to any of the wires or to earth, so when the motor cools down, a solder joint will open up and won't make a proper contact, if at all, it is called a "dry solder", it looks ok, but it may not have proper continuity, usually it has excessive solder flux underneath the joint, it's pretty common with chinese assembled electronics. When I buy electronics direct from HK or China, I usually get three or four items out of 10 that have dry solder joints. They pass the QC testing because they are tested directly after the joint was made and they are still warm or hot, but work loose during transit. Maybe the plug for the main motor has come loose. I'd be following the wires from the PCB plug to the main motor and checking for shorts or breaks. Also, check the solder blob that connects the circuit board on top of the main motor body to the center of the motor above the main shaft of the motor. It is usually easily fixed by re-melting the solder and making it flow across the joint better. If you have a multimeter, pop it on 20 OHM's or 20Ω and touch the center of the main motor shaft or earth with one probe and the solder blob with the other. If you get a 0, it's making a proper connection, if you still get a 1, it's not making a proper contact. I'd also look for an obvious broken trace or track on the PCB. If you find one, scrape the enamel from the broken track with a scalpel knife or similar, and solder a very small blob over the crack.

Mick.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 07:38 PM
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Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
Well, my 9116 is dead. It's been working great and finally have been able to fly the last 3 days with almost perfect conditions. Then, today I take it out after a charge and the main rotor will not turn. The tail rotor and all the servos are working, just nothing from the main 'engine' so to speak. I left an email with the seller I bought it from to see what can be done.

Seriously bummed...
Sorry to hear that. Are you sure is the motor? or may be something else.
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