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Old Dec 24, 2011, 08:11 PM
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Majic1, Thanks for the info in the settings. One question, does the settings replace the need for manual adjustments? I figure to try and do a manual adjustment, then use the trimmers for final tweaking. Hope to try it out tommorow.
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Stormforce, looks like a fair amount of surgury to fix the linkage canopy issue, a little more work for myself, but good info. Too bad DH didn't do that from the start.

Mike
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 09:21 PM
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Mike,

I suppose it was, but I wanted to do it mainly to try and save the servo arm from flexing, not particularly the "dog leg" end rubbing against the canopy. Plus when at full throw forward, I noticed it was bending the arm that the ball is attached to on the swashplate, which I reckon wouldn't be a good idea, so this little exercise potentially saved the swashplate ball arm, the servo arm and also by just taking it outside for a test flight, it also resolved the left lean somewhat. I had to turn the link on that side one full turn in (shorten), because it was wanting to go backwards on take off. Now it hovers without any drift quite well.

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 25, 2011 at 04:53 AM.
Old Dec 24, 2011, 09:32 PM
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hey Jeff373, did you get your DH9116 yet?
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 10:33 PM
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Majic01,

I tried your settings of;

AILE SUB TRI - 45R
RUDD SUB TRI - 10L

The 45R setting for the aileron was pretty much spot on, but for me 10R on the rudder was better, maybe it's because I'm again using the 20C 900maH Li-Po (the week the OEM 650maH battery was not being used has made it very "doughy" and it doesn't last as long as the 900maH Li-Po). Your suggestions were made after the servo move mod too.

I also checked the brushes in the main motor, thinking there was just the metal tabs, but low and behold, there was actually carbon brushes in it!!! There was heaps of "meat" on them, so I should be ok for a while yet, but I've got two brand new OEM motors sitting here from my DH9100 waiting to go in if needed.

Mick.
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesoftail03 View Post
Majic1, Thanks for the info in the settings. One question, does the settings replace the need for manual adjustments? I figure to try and do a manual adjustment, then use the trimmers for final tweaking. Hope to try it out tommorow.
mikesoftail, Yes, when you use the manual trims, you can figure out what settings need to be changed and approx how much by the way the heli is acting. What I've noticed is, first, when you turn off the controller, all your manual settings go back to defaults and you have to change them every time. And second, the manual setting don't seem to get close enough to really get it dialed in. They seem to either not go far enough, or go too far. When you program the box, all your settings become permanent. Once you get it dialed in, all you have to do is turn on the controller and the heli and go fly.
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Majic01,

I tried your settings of;

AILE SUB TRI - 45R
RUDD SUB TRI - 10L

The 45R setting for the aileron was pretty much spot on, but for me 10R on the rudder was better, maybe it's because I'm again using the 20C 900maH Li-Po (the week the OEM 650maH battery was not being used has made it very "doughy" and it doesn't last as long as the 900maH Li-Po). Your suggestions were made after the servo move mod too.

I also checked the brushes in the main motor, thinking there was just the metal tabs, but low and behold, there was actually carbon brushes in it!!! There was heaps of "meat" on them, so I should be ok for a while yet, but I've got two brand new OEM motors sitting here from my DH9100 waiting to go in if needed.

Mick.
Hi Mick and Merry Christmas to all!
Glad the newbie could help. You are probably right about the battery. What I found interesting, is the last 2 days i've been programming my controller to get the 9116 dialed and got it pretty darn close. But, today is the first day I have been able to fly without wind. Just complete calm air today and the funny thing is my setting don't work the same. I had to readjust. I had to change to AILE setting to 50 R, the ELEV to 7 F and the RUDD to 9 L. Funny that the wind would have that much of an effect on it. Now, without touching any controlls except the throttle, I can lift off the ground straight into a still hover. Pretty cool.
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 04:00 PM
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yeah, Mike, and a very merry christmas to you and yours...

We are all newbies, I'm just a few days further into it. I have noticed with any products with Li-Ion or Li-Po batteries, if you don't use 'em, you lose 'em. I put my OEM battery away for the duration on a storage charge (7.4vdc, instead of 8.40vdc) as recommended, and it held 95% of the charge while not being used for that week, took it out, top up charged it to 8.40vdc and installed it in the heli. Maybe I just didn't notice before, but I only got 5 - 10minutes flying time with the OEM, against 15 to 18 minutes with the 900mah Li-Po. I wouldn't have thought the extra 250maH would make that much difference, but considering an earlier post in regards to the C rating, it seems to follow along those lines.

The wind will make a difference to the way the heli flies and the flight duration, but it's understandable, remember how much work it was riding a bicycle with a head wind, as opposed to a calm day or a tail wind?

I too had problems obtaining a hover yesterday evening when a stronger breeze picked up as it was getting dark with those settings. It's totally calm here now, so I'm about to go outside and have another go, so I might use your new settings and see if there is any improvement.

I've never really noticed before but I have a better chance of getting totally calm flying conditions, the earlier in the morning I start. The best time I've noticed is just after dawn, I can get up to 2.5 hours in before any sort of breeze will appear, so it's great conditions for "ironing out the bugs", not much good for catching up on some sleep after a hard week at work, but I can sleep when I'm dead...so many heli's, and so little time to learn to fly them.

Enjoy.
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Old Dec 26, 2011, 11:20 AM
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Yeah Mick, I agree, the earlier the better for me too. Up until a week ago, I was helping a friend for 3 weeks on one of his jobs which required us to be up at 4:30am-5:00am. We finished the job a week ago, but my internal clock still hasn't readjusted. I'm still waking up at that time. The problem is, it is still dark and the sun won't come up for another 2hrs. Also, it has been unusually cold here. At 6:30am when the sun comes up, it still 32F (0c degrees). The manual for the 9116 says you should not fly in temps below 40F (4.4c), which I have been respecting. But, the temperature here doesn't get to 40F until almost 9:00am. I get 2 good flights in until the wind starts up around 11:00am or so.

I have a question about the batteries you are using. I looked on ebay and amazon and I found a few people selling Li-Po batteries for RC's. One guy actually only about an hour away from me. But he had 7.4v 450mAh,850mAh,1000mAh and all the way up to 5500 or something rediculous like that. The only batteries that had the same 2-pin connector that the 9116 uses were the 450's? All the others had this wierd 'T' type connector on them. I looked and found the same exact batteries you have, also. My question is what is the 'C' rating mean? And what is the difference between 10C,20C,25C,40C and 55C? What does all that mean?
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Old Dec 26, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majic1 View Post
Yeah Mick, I agree, the earlier the better for me too. Up until a week ago, I was helping a friend for 3 weeks on one of his jobs which required us to be up at 4:30am-5:00am. We finished the job a week ago, but my internal clock still hasn't readjusted. I'm still waking up at that time. The problem is, it is still dark and the sun won't come up for another 2hrs. Also, it has been unusually cold here. At 6:30am when the sun comes up, it still 32F (0c degrees). The manual for the 9116 says you should not fly in temps below 40F (4.4c), which I have been respecting. But, the temperature here doesn't get to 40F until almost 9:00am. I get 2 good flights in until the wind starts up around 11:00am or so.

I have a question about the batteries you are using. I looked on ebay and amazon and I found a few people selling Li-Po batteries for RC's. One guy actually only about an hour away from me. But he had 7.4v 450mAh,850mAh,1000mAh and all the way up to 5500 or something rediculous like that. The only batteries that had the same 2-pin connector that the 9116 uses were the 450's? All the others had this wierd 'T' type connector on them. I looked and found the same exact batteries you have, also. My question is what is the 'C' rating mean? And what is the difference between 10C,20C,25C,40C and 55C? What does all that mean?
Google is your best friend:

http://www.google.com/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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Old Dec 26, 2011, 04:52 PM
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Mike, I suggest you refer to Thetis' post in regards to the C rating (cheers thetis.

But as I understand it, the C rating is how high an amperage burst the battery can handle within a short period amount of time before the battery reverts to it's nominal voltage discharge rate. i.e, a quick burst at takeoff. Normal, non-rechargeable cell lead acid or zinc alkaline batteries are designed to release their energy at a slow steady rate. A Li-Po or Li-ion battery has a near flat discharge curve, a quick peak, then it plateau's, then a sharp drop off, in other words, they have a quick high amperage pulse of a few seconds, then they level out, normally maintaining their nominal voltage discharge for a period determined by their capacity, then quickly fall.



http://prototalk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22

The point on the discharge curve where the voltage drops below it's nominal voltage, is the point where one is supposed to cease discharging the battery any further. As it was explained to me, because the battery has a very steep "drop off" once it reaches the end of it's nominal voltage plateau, if the cells are discharged any further they can be damaged to the point where they no longer can adequately hold a charge they were designed for. A symptom of this is where the "bag" that holds the Lithium polymer construct, "puffs" up. The chemicals involved are deteriorating and slowly releasing a toxic gas. At this point, the battery must be disposed of at a suitable recycle centre that will accept Li-Po batteries. Any damage to the bag will release the toxic gas, which is poisonous, hence hazardous to everyone.

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 26, 2011 at 05:12 PM.
Old Dec 26, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the info Thetis and StormForce. That is some good reading.

Mick, do you have to use a different charger for the 900mAh batteries or can you use the original charger that comes with the 9116?
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Old Dec 26, 2011, 11:59 PM
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The supplied charger / balancer unit supplied with the DH9116 is adequate, but it doesn't give you the flexibility of a programmable charger / balancer. I use a Turnigy Accucell 6 programmable balancer / charger to charge all my batteries. It cost me about $70AUD, but apparently it can be obtained in the U.S for approx. $40USD or less.

You will need an additional power supply, I use a 12vdc 1000maH "battery eliminator", but most use an old laptop power supply or old computer power supply, as long as the voltage is above 12vdc and anywhere from 1000maH to 5amp, it should be ok, plus it can be powered from a cigerette lighter or power accessory plug in a car (you'll need the additional cable to match) or direct to a larger car wet cell battery via an "alligator" clip cable.

The Accucell 6, once programmed (with up to 5 individual programmable setttings), will only supply the appropriate voltage and amperage to the battery. I use it to charge my 3.7vdc 160maH Li-Po for my Xieda 4ch, all my double horse heli's, and my 11.1vdc 1000maH Li-Po for my walkera. It will charge Li-Po, Li-Ion, Ni-Mh, Ni-Cad and Lead Acid (Pb) batteries. It has an auto feature to detect the voltage and amperage of the battery to be charged so, if you wish, you don't have to pre-program it. It also has the ability to monitor the charging rate for each individual cell in the battery pack, for 2 cell, 3 cell, etc, up to 6 cells. Unfortunately it doesn't come with the JST fitting needed to charge our batteries, but they are easily sourced either from an RC shop or online from RC websites or eBay. They are approx. $1.00AUD each, maybe less for you guys in the states.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7028

Turnigy Accucel 6 unbox and review (7 min 13 sec)


I'd highly recommend you get one, as they are so handy and very user friendly.

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 28, 2011 at 04:46 AM.
Old Dec 28, 2011, 01:39 PM
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just got mine

UPS delivered my 9116 this morning and is charging now. I am sure I will be back with questions. Way smaller than the 9104.
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Joescan, I'm not familiar with going into the settings yet, but this is exactly what I get, in sequence;

All stick trims are centered, throttle stick is at it's lowest position; rocker switch is in the 'quick" position.

Switch the TX on; the battery voltage indicator shows full and the actual voltage value flashes and fluctuates between 7.6vdc and 8.1vdc; the red LED flashes and the buzzer beeps quickly 14 times quickly, then changes to a higher pitch single beep and falls silent; red LED stops flashing.

-----------------------------------------------------

Long press of the MENU button; after 1 second the backlight glows;

MODE Flashes; 2 is visible

Press of the MENU button and ELEV SUB F flashes - 000 ("F" suddenly appears next to the RUDD TRI)

press of the SEL button, AILE SUB L flashes - 000
press of the SEL button, THRO SUB F flashes - 000
press of the SEL button, RUDD SUB L flashes - 000

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV SUB F flashes - 000

press of the MENU button, ELEV D/R - 100%

press of the SEL button, AILE D/R flashes - 100%
press of the SEL button, RUDD D/R flashes - 100%

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV D/R flashes - 100%

press of the MENU button, ELEV REV flashes - REV

press of the SEL button, AILE REV flashes - REV
press of the SEL button, THRO REV flashes - NOA
press of the SEL button, RUDD REV flashes - REV

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV REV flashes - REV

press of the MENU button, ELEV EPA flashes - 100% (RUDD TRI changes to F)

press of the SEL button, AILE EPA - 100% (RUDD TRI changes to A or R)
press of the SEL button, RUDD EPA - 100% (RUDD still at A or R)

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV EPA flashes - 100% (RUDD TRI changes back to F)

press of the MENU button, THRO TRI 0 - 000%

press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 1 - 000% (OR I, can't tell, probably 1)
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 2 - 050%
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 3 - 075%
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 4 - 100%

press of the SEL button, back to THRO TRI 0 - 000%

press of the MENU button, back to mode - 2

END OF MENU

-----------------------------------------------------

That seems to be all I get without pressing the "up" & down" buttons which obviously changes the settings.

Mick.
I knew I was going to have questions. The heli is fully charged and I am on mode 2 but the Tx throttle must be pulled back otherwise she takes off. The manual sucks!! Any special sequence to save the changes? Probably the changes are not saved. Are the bars showing on the throttle dial like this when is turned on? see pic below. The set up is: TRI 0 0%, TRI 1=25%, TRI 2 50%, TRI 3 75%, TRI 4 100%. I will appreciate any help.
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