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Old Jan 25, 2012, 08:35 PM
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......Also the heat sink and a better compatible motor seems like a next logical step,please keep us posted,Im loving this stuff!
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 09:27 PM
Lee
United States, NJ, East Orange
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
...thats a weird one indeed.

Maybe, there is no power getting to the servo, and during it's initial test and sync phase, the pcb detects that, then shuts down, but I didn't think it was that sophisticated. You may have a bad servo. If you are shorting the yellow servo wire with a red one (assuming it is just a normal "line in" power wire), there has to be a dead short on the pcb.

My suspicions are that there is a crack in a pcb trace somewhere near to the feed line from the main ic for that servo. By you jumping the servo, you are giving the all clear signal to the onboard diagnostic circuitry, presuming it has one.

I know it has an auto-shut off in case of loss of signal, so maybe that is playing up.

Either way a new pcb should fix it, unless you know someone handy with electronic diagnostic circuitry that could check it out.
Yeah, I couldn't figure it out. I looked for cracks, but didn't see any. I guess that crash was a lot harder than I thought. NST is sending me another one. Hopefully it will be here soon because I've got the "heli-itch" .

Just checked out EBay for parts and the PCB is $13. Not a huge cost to replace, so I might stock up on a couple. Thanks again for the help.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 09:38 PM
Lee
United States, NJ, East Orange
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
Well you could disconect the linkages and swap the servo's around by plugging the left into the right servo plug and the same right one to see if it's the servo or the pcb. also try plugging in only 1 at a time and see if it will sync.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try it, but I get the same behavior .
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 10:05 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
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Originally Posted by ProfeC View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try it, but I get the same behavior .
Then yes its the PCB.

Hi Mick the motor is a 180 motor with 8 tooth cogg according to the specs it aslo says it has MOPS (Motor Overload Protection System) which should keep the amps to the same rating as the 600ma LI-Po maybe in some this is defective or the motor is running far to long useing the 900ma Li-Po than what the motor is rated at to cope with and the heat sink hopfully would keep the heat down and prolong the life of the motor or possibly look at a better quality motor at the same specs.

I have just orderd one of those heat sinks and i'll see how it goes.
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Last edited by Whizgig; Jan 25, 2012 at 10:23 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:15 PM
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yeah, can't hurt with a heatsink, I was thinking of cutting away or drilling some holes in the top of the canopy to improve the airflow too.

Looking at the heatsink I just bought, I may have to cut it in half width ways and mount one half on either side or on just one side, directly adjacent to the commutator and brushes, as that would be the likely place for heat to generate, with the constant arcing between the brushes.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
Then yes its the PCB.

Hi Mick the motor is a 180 motor with 8 tooth cogg according to the specs it aslo says it has MOPS (Motor Overload Protection System) which should keep the amps to the same rating as the 600ma LI-Po maybe in some this is defective or the motor is running far to long useing the 900ma Li-Po than what the motor is rated at to cope with and the heat sink hopfully would keep the heat down and prolong the life of the motor or possibly look at a better quality motor at the same specs.

I have just orderd one of those heat sinks and i'll see how it goes.
I haven't noticed a drop in revs between the 900 Li-Po and the 650 Li-Ion, but a slight increase in revs and considerable better performance, and it definately runs a bit longer, so the longer it running is hot, the worse it will become. Well, thats my theory anyway.

The "MOPS" would just be that 1N4004 zener diode I reckon, hence why it would burn out on some pcb's. An equally good protection mechanism would be just to use a heatsink on the motor.

I've gotta buy some thermal paste before they come, so it'll transfer the heat better. It can be purchased from auto-electricians for mounting ignition modules on the sides of distributors. Permatex also makes it for cars, so it should be available in any car parts store.



http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...-Up_Grease.htm

But also stores like Radioshack in the U.S, and also Tandy's (Radioshack's equivalent In Australia), Jaycar Electronics and Dick Smith Electronics in Australia sell this stuff, which is the same, just a different brand.



http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...e&form=KEYWORD

The best I've found is conductive silver silicon thermal paste (Dielectric heatsink compound), it actually has powdered silver metal in it, which conducts electricity as well as heat.



http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...e&form=KEYWORD

It's a tiny tube, but the contents goes a very long way...
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Last edited by stormforce; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:53 PM.
Old Jan 26, 2012, 12:55 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Hi all Its my birthday today and my daughter got me this 3.5 ch Helicopter in red

I am just amazed with the size
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:29 AM
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Hi all Its my birthday today and my daughter got me this 3.5 ch Helicopter in red

I am just amazed with the size
Geez, talk about "size does matter" !!!

Now you can truly say "mines bigger than yours"!!!

How does it handle?

BTW, happy belated birthday Eugene
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:35 AM
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BTW, I found these on eBay in the U.S.A



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Xtrem...item53eb13e8e2

Notice the two are wired in opposite polarities, so un-solder one, match it with ours, slide the pinion down and pop it in.

I just bought the pair and will do the mods to make them suit.
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Last edited by stormforce; Jan 26, 2012 at 01:42 AM.
Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:52 AM
Tom
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2012
50 Posts
hey guys.

Run into a slight problem with my heli. The last three flights after take off I have had to re-trim the rudder. I'm not sure as to why this is happening as it seems to require different settings after every charge. Currently to keep the heli straight I am using Rudd Sub 75R!!

There is no way that can be normal. The previous setting was at 25L if i'm not mistaking. I have to stay on the sticks as well to keep it at a level heading. I was having no problems with the rudder prior to this. Somewhat confused.

Suggestions lads?
Tom
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:04 AM
Eugene
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Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Geez, talk about "size does matter" !!!

Now you can truly say "mines bigger than yours"!!!

How does it handle?

BTW, happy belated birthday Eugene
Hi Mick, don't know yet it's to windy to try it we have 28klm winds at the moment yesterday it was dead calm.

I powerd it up inside wow what a sound of the 2 390 motors was but way to big for the lounge

Let me now how the motors go when you try them
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:13 AM
Tom
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Happy Birthday buddy!
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:33 AM
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Singles are for sale, $20.98 including postage



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Xtreme-PR...item337068f0cf
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:45 AM
Tom
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2012
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Just had a closer look at the tail rotor in the light... fair bit of hair all bundled up on the tail rotor shaft. I let it charge on the floor of the bedroom. Long black hair might I add, which leaves the only culprit as my girlfriend.

Cleaned it out and will let it charge and hopefully that will fix the problem.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:50 AM
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with replaceable brushes...



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Xtreme-18...item337064aa42
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