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Old Dec 14, 2011, 12:08 AM
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yep, the 800maH battery will be ok as a replacement. I dunno about getting any extra flight time out of it though, maybe an extra 30 seconds or even a minute if you are lucky. I just got some 900maH for mine and it's not really noticeable if I get any extra air time unless I time it with a stopwatch. Just be careful with using the larger capacity battery, the motors in these things heat up pretty quickly, so I guess the longer they are running, the quicker the brushes in them will wear out. These motors don't have a great reputation for longevity, even with the standard 650maH batteries. I might look into a brushless motor for mine later on, but only if it's dirt cheap.

As per the main blades, I just use the replacement OEM ones or blades from the DH9100, as long as you don't mind them having orange tips. They are cheap enough on eBay. I buy mine from this guy in Hong Kong, he's never let me down (I place multiple large orders with him for numerous model helicopters) and shipping time is about a 1.5 weeks to Oz.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Main-Blad...item415d858e76
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 12:09 AM
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Germantown, WI.
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I think you have made a mistake. The 9116 is a micro sized heli, maybe 17" long; it's shorter than one of those blades you bought. A 500 size heli is better than double that size.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Here's some parts that includes specific parts for the DH9116, the rest can be sourced either as a DH9116 part or a DH9100 part.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Double-Ho...item3f115308ab

Other than the differently painted head cover (it still fits on the DH9100) the only things that are significantly different between the DH9100 and the DH9116 is the swashplate, the 2.4gHz PCB, transmitter and servo / swashplate linkage set. The servo is the same as on the DH9100, the DH9116 uses two instead of one on the DH9100, and the rest of the parts have the exact same dimensions as the DH9100 parts, they are just painted differently. No external antenna wire and pipe on the skids either, to get caught up in things and get torn off.

For me, so far, it's been mostly worry free flying, except the tail needs to be constantly adjusted as the battery loses voltage, but other than that, she's a little pearler.

Mick.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 04:54 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2011
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similar to the second heli i brought the ZR-Z101... great little machine, next step up Joe, look at a more advanced fixed pitch totally different to what you have there in the Double horse, get a Walkera V200D01 (i love this chopper) will give you some good basics and a step in the right direction to the beginning of what is involved in Collective pitch (6 channel) helis.. It has brushless motor and alot more responsive that what you are currently flying.. anyway happy flying and stick to your Double horse until you get bored of it and are well practiced.!
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 03:51 PM
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Love my double horse!
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 09:05 AM
Joe Scan
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United States, RI, East Providence
Joined Dec 2011
21 Posts
Thanks guys I did receive the CF blades and they are obviously not going to work. The bigger 850mAh runs great though and was worth the $4 I paid for it. I'm going to hang on to those bigger blades and maybe my next copter will be able to utilize them.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 05:05 AM
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Does anyone have a spare blue canopy they would like to swap for a red canopy? I can't seem to get hold of a blue canopy anywhere in Oz, but I have three spare red canopies.

My original canopy was blue and I like the colour, so I'd hopefully like to keep it that way.

PM me and we'll work out the details.

Oh, BTW, I got my first parts order for the DH9116 from Hong Kong today. The kit included three new red canopies, two sets of main blades, two swashplates, three decorative bar sets, two inner shafts and three sets of linkages for the head/swashplate. The surprising thing is the linkage kits are the same as you'd get for the 9100, including the two links that attach to the swashplate and then screw to the frame !!! these aren't on the DH9116, so it looks like they've just made up a full linkage kit for the DH9100 and added the shorter adjustable linkage that goes onto the front-right side of the DH9116 swashplate. The longer linkage on the front-left of the swashplate is the same as used on the DH9100, I even measured it with my digital verniers to check and it's the same length and size. So my suspicions were spot on about the parts interchanging between the DH9116 and the DH9100.

So those of you that already own a DH9100 and have spare parts in waiting, can indeed use them on the DH9116. A parts kit for the DH9116 should only include the swashplate, 2.4GHz PCB, the shorter servo linkage and TX. I snapped the "dog leg" end that goes into the servo arm from the short servo linkage on the weekend, so, I grabbed one of the longer linkages from the DH9100 parts kit, cut it to length and bent it accordingly and popped it in and it worked perfectly. When I got the new one today, I put them side by side to compare and you wouldn't know the difference to look at them.

So far the best supplier for DH9116 parts on ebay is "egrandmart"

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/egrandmar....c0.m270.l1313

The only parts he hasn't got is the PCB, TX and tail boom / motor assembly, but he's got the rest. Most parts are between $3 to $8AUD each.

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 20, 2011 at 05:36 AM. Reason: additional new information
Old Dec 21, 2011, 01:56 AM
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I had a really hard crash last night. I got the heli up about 20 ft and there must have been a stonger breeze up there and it just took the heli away before I could recover it back in time. Anyway, as I tried to turn it around and get it flying back to me, but as I did so the heli turned side on and pointed down wind, the pendulum effect took over pretty severely and I just couldn't get it to recover. The heli hit the ground at full speed, nose first on the edge of a hard gravel road. I thought to myself as I started to walk towards it "this is gonna hurt !!!", so I picked it up and inspected the damage and all I could see was a huge hole in the canopy, exposing the pcb and that was it. I throughly inspected everything I could, wriggled and flexed everything to see if anything was loose or broken and could find nothing else that was damaged or broken. I promptly set it on the ground for a short test flight to see if it was indeed ok and it took off normally and it responded well to the controls, so it lives to fly another day!! I have three new red canopies to replace the damaged blue one, but I'd really like another blue canopy, hence the previous post about the canopy swap.

Mick.
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 01:58 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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haha... very good to hear.
Always nice to have them back in the air with a minor fix..
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 02:13 AM
Crash and learn
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Good reading. Thanks guys.

I am so new that I don't even own a Helicopter yet. A DH9104 is on the way though. Was going to spend $400+ on a 6 channel, then decided it better to crash a $45 model a few times and wreck it first.

OK, was wondering about burning out the brushed motors and if a low battery voltage may cause that. Doing the same amount of work with a lower voltage means the current goes up and it is high current that kills motors. Do the motors run hotter as the battery voltage drops?

And I am going to rebuild a 11 volt LiPo 2200mah battery using 2 cells for 7.4 volts as an extra for the 1300mah 7.4 volt battery. Is it a bad idea cutting open LiPo battery packs?
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 04:20 AM
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The motors in these things don't have carbon brushes, just metal tags running along the face of the armature, so a lower voltage would mean they would try to get as much amperage as possible to do the same amount of work, but that also depends on how much amperage is available, i.e, the battery amperage.

In my opinion, going to a larger capacity battery will burn out the motors quicker, but I think it's a trade off, remember the larger capacity the battery, the heavier it will be, so the motor has to work harder to achieve the same result, and using all that additional amperage will create more heat, therefore lowering the life of the motor. I just replaced the OEM 650maH Li-Ion with a 900maH Li-Po and the extra time was debateable, but the motor was a lot hotter than with the 650maH battery, so I swapped out the Li-Po back to the Li-Ion.

Unless you are very experienced with Li-Po batteries, I would advise against cutting open any Li-Po. Any slipups and you could have a very dangerous situation on your hands. Li-Po batteries when damaged will burn with the intensity of a magnesium fire and the smoke is extremely caustic and poisonous. Do a google search for Li-Po fire and find out.

It would just be better to buy a 7.4vdc battery already made up to the amperage of your choosing, they are cheap enough and it's really not worth the risk to save a few dollars. From memory, the DH9104 has a 1500maH Li-Ion in it, so either get a 1500maH Li-Po battery or a 2000maH battery, as long as you can get the exact dimensions of the battery so you'll know it will fit in the battery cradle. Usually, the larger capacity Li-Po batteries are longer and heavier, so if you use one, it may put your CoG more forward, making it more difficult to attain a drift free hover (a drift free hover is the first thing you should learn, as it helps you land in control, not slam into the deck and start breaking things). They also weight more, so even though you may get a tiny bit extra flight time, the extra weight will put additional stress on the motor, heat it up quicker and ultimately reduce the flying life of the heli, personally, I wouldn't do it. There's a good reason why they have the size and amperage batteries they do because it's an intentional balancing act between power and weight vs flying time and service life. The OEM batteries are very easy to get and pretty cheap, and considering you haven't flown it yet, you may be jumping the gun a bit. I've found the main motor get "doughy" much quicker than the batteries do.

If you want a nice cheap heli to fly indoors when you can't fly the DH9104 (the DH9104 is a big 3.5ch heli and it needs plenty of room and near nil wind to get to fly at it's full potential) but it is a 4ch, grab a Xieda 9958 Micro. It's tiny, fits on the palm of your hand and flys great, costs under $50, fly's rings around and out performs a DH9104 or DH9100 and gets you used to the idea of a 4ch heli, which has the same basic controls as a 6ch heli, as the controls are on the same sticks. The DH9104 is a 3.5ch heli, which, in mode 2, has the throttle on the left stick and the rudder (spin left/right) and the cyclic (forward/backwards) on the right stick, on a 4ch the left stick has the throttle and rudder, and the right stick has the cyclic and yaw (slide left/right), so all the 3.5ch will do it get you confused when you grab a 4ch or 6ch (the stick controls both are the same for both versions).

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 21, 2011 at 04:55 AM.
Old Dec 21, 2011, 03:43 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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stormforce, thank you for the advice.

May be better not to take a knife to the LiPo 2200mah battery. One of the DH9104 mods I saw was to put one ounce of clay in the nose to get better forward motion, so I figured the extra battery weight would be better than dead weight. Anyway, yes, hover first, then worry about forward motion.

I am somewhat worried that I will kill the 1300mah battery and the motor before I even get the training gear off.

Played with an Apache simulator for many years. Also getting a RC Tech 6 CH Flight Simulator USB control to ease the transition.

Built and flew many wire control model planes and a few RC planes with minor RC flying experience. If anything I am overcautious. Reading the threads here and watching training videos should save wear and tear on the aircraft.

Yes, there are beginners reading your stories and learning from your mistakes.
Quite valuable information. Thanks.
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 09:31 PM
Joe Scan
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United States, RI, East Providence
Joined Dec 2011
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I'm having an extremely hard time with my controller, I've played around with setting all the trims but I’m just running in circles now. I'm following the book for all defaults and now I have no response when hitting the right trigger up or down the remote doesn't move the digital ticks. I have also lost the function of turning right with the left stick. So basically my Heli is grounded because I can't get my settings back to normal. I've tried to reset the controller by pulling the batteries and drain the capacitors with no luck. The instructions suck and I have what they say is defaults but nothing changes, and I am saving the settings. I need someone to list off all there settings so I can try something different.

Quick
Mode 2
Elev/Sub = 000 F
Aile/Sub = 000 L
Thro/Sub = 000 F
Rudd/Sub = 000 L
Elev/DR = 100%
Aile/DR = 000
Rudd/DR = 000
Elev/Rev = REV
Aile/Rev = Rev
Thro/Rev = Nor
Rudd/Rev = Rev
Elev/Epa = 100 B
Aile/Epa = 100 L
Rudd/Epa = 100 L

I'm completely lost so I can us any help.
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Old Dec 22, 2011, 01:17 AM
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Ribble,

I wouldn't worry too much with the training gear for the moment, if you are in doubt, grab a few extra blades and go for it. The extra weight of the landing gear on these helicopters would be detrimental, so just take it easy and go very gentle on the sticks. Take off on an old single or double person foam mattress and get it up in the air about 2ft without moving the forward or backwards sticks too much and if you get into trouble, let off on the throttle quickly and the heli will fall onto the mat and try again. From a relatively low height you shouldn't damage the heli much if at all and the size of the mattress will give you plenty of room. Try to stay within the area of the mattress to start with, just in case, then as you feel more confident and your abilities grow, you can venture outside of the mattress area, but still take off and land from it.

A sim is a great place to learn the basics, like stick control and orientation. At this stage you don't want to spend heaps of money on a sim if you later decide it's not for you, as long as the sim allows you to get a heli in the air and do the basic manouvers like take off, fly around gently for a bit and then land, and do drift free hover training and has a halfway realistic physics engine. I used HeliSimRC to start with and still use it occasionally, but prefer Heli-X and Clearview for the model choices. HeliSimRC is free to download and use and gives you the very basics and it's a small download of about 4.4mB (http://www.marksfiles.net/HeliSim/).

T-Rex 450 3D on Helisim RC (1 min 12 sec)


I didn't have a usb controller to start with, so I used an usb gamepad controller (Logitech GamePad F310 / Dual Action actually) and used that until my dynam 4ch usb transmitter came in a week or so later. Maybe grab a small indoor co-axial, they are pretty hard to kill and since you are flying it solely inside, you don't have to worry about wind, etc. Get it airbourne and do some simple things like nose in hovering and circuits around the room. They are pretty slow, so you'll have plenty of time to make any corrections if you look like hitting something. Then try some figure eights and forward takeoffs, just in case you need to take off into a wind. do as much as you are inclined to and don't be timid, your confidence will grow the more practise you do, and eventually you'll be able to attempt to fly a 6ch CP, maybe not successfully to start with, but eventually, maybe after 6 months or a year. It really depends on how much you practise. I try to fly my heli's everyday for at least one battery's worth, either inside or out, and when the wind is good, I'll fly for a couple of hours.

Joescan,

What can I say? I haven't got myself into your predicament, so I don't know where to start, I'm sorry to say. The book is terrible at explaining what the default settings are I know, but keep trying, you may stumble on it at some time.

Here's how mine is set;

Quick
Mode 2
Elev/Sub F 000
Elev D/R 100%
Elev Rev
Elev EPA F 100%
Rudd Sub L 000
Aile Sub L
Thro Sub F
Thro Tri 0 000%

Back to start

Mick.
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Last edited by stormforce; Dec 22, 2011 at 03:13 AM.
Old Dec 22, 2011, 05:18 AM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Thanks stormforce.

My bedroom is the only place in the house big enough to learn and test the DH9104. I plan to lay a door on the double bed and see if there is any skid.

With the Apache AH-60 simulator I could swoop down and swoop back up into a stall turn. Even mastered flying in a circle sideways with the nose always pointed down at a flagpole and inertial force trying to push me out.

Studying "RADD'S SCHOOL OF ROTARY FLIGHT" and watched many training videos. The fixed pitch $45 DH9104 hopefully is only a stepping stone to something in the $450 range.
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