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Old Jul 20, 2012, 05:21 AM
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Joined Jul 2012
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9116 binding

If you have a problem trying to bind your 9116, after you have turned off the heli and the x-mitter, turn on the heli first, then immediately turn on the xmitter and after it completes it's start-up cycle it will bind, and you'll see the servo arms move. I have three 9116 helis and if I get the transmitters mixed up I will follow the above proceedure and it works every time. As far as the Q/S switch goes, it does act as a D/R switch and through the x-mitter software you can set the % of where you want the slow settings. The manual is a bit hard to follow but it does work.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 06:15 AM
Eugene
Whizgig's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onno View Post
Small question from Holland: does the 1500 mAH LiPo battery for the DH9104 also work on the DH9116? And can I charge it with the charger of the DH9116?
Well it can be used in the 9116 but it weighs way to much, If you want to upgrade the battery back at the starting pages on this thread there is a link to the batteries that you can upgrade to as they weigh the same as the stock battery they are 900mAh 20C Li-Po batteries here is the link for you.

Recomended Batteries

Now as for the DH9104 battery yes it's fine you can charge it with the stock DH9116 charger but you would be better off buying a proper ballance charger like the Imax B6 or the Turnagy accucell 6 as the stock chargers will not charge batteries properly and eventualy they will kill one or both of the cells of the battery either by undercharging or overcharging them.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 06:52 AM
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You could use it, yes, but the balance will me more orientated to the front, so you'll have to balance it out. Plus the added weight may reduce flight times, even with the larger capacity battery, it's a trade off, the added capacity will be countered by the added weight, so you'll probably end up with the same flight times as before, but you'll definitely wear out the main motor quicker.

As far as I'm aware, the oem charger will charge the 1500mAh, as it's the same charger used with the DH9116, the DH9100, the DH9101 and the DH9104. The charger only monitors voltage, not amperage/capacity, so it will keep charging until the cell reaches 4.1vdc (the max. voltage of a Li-Ion cell, it has a nominal voltage of 3.6vdc). Even though it has written on it "Li-Po", it is not a Li-Po, it is a Li-Ion, which has a 3.6vdc cell, for a combined total voltage of 7.2vdc, not 7.4vdc as with the Li-Po batteries, hence, it is partially the reason why you get higher motor revs with the recommended 7.4vdc 900mAh "Akku" 20C Li-Po battery, than the Li-Ion oem battery, but the higher rev's and greater discharge rate can mean longer flight times and better performance, which can mean more inflight wear and a greater build up of heat, which in turn, will eventually shorten the service life of the motor, unless you find a way to keep the motor from overheating by the use of a clip-on heatsink on the top of the motor adjacent to where the brushes are situated.

It is recommended to fly the heli in 5 - 7 min blocks, and monitor the battery voltage, with a small pocket or inflight voltage meter (one that you can fix to the side of the heli, plug it into the white balance /charge plug of the battery, then pre-set the buzzer to sound at a pre-determined overall and individual minimum voltage, they are easily found cheaply on ebay), so it doesn't go below 6.4vdc (3.2vdc per cell), that way the motor will last a bit longer by not overheating the magnets and burning out the brushes.
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Last edited by stormforce; Jul 20, 2012 at 07:48 AM.
Old Jul 20, 2012, 07:32 AM
Dirk
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2012
40 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onno View Post
Small question from Holland: does the 1500 mAH LiPo battery for the DH9104 also work on the DH9116? And can I charge it with the charger of the DH9116?
Hi Onno,
I agree with the comments from Mick (Stormforce) about the bigger battery causing earlier motor failure and not really bring much in flying time. It will also make your heli sluggish, slow to react and move and therefore not much fun to fly. The battery Eugene (Whizgig) suggested is the right way to go. More capacity but same weight and high discharge rate.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 07:59 AM
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Joined Jul 2012
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Thanks for your help

Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
You could use it, yes, but the balance will me more orientated to the front, so you'll have to balance it out. Plus the added weight may reduce flight times, even with the larger capacity battery, it's a trade off, the added capacity will be countered by the added weight, so you'll probably end up with the same flight times as before, but you'll definitely wear out the main motor quicker.

As far as I'm aware, the oem charger will charge the 1500mAh, as it's the same charger used with the DH9116, the DH9100, the DH9101 and the DH9104. The charger only monitors voltage, not amperage/capacity, so it will keep charging until the cell reaches 4.1vdc (the max. voltage of a Li-Ion cell, it has a nominal voltage of 3.6vdc). Even though it has written on it "Li-Po", it is not a Li-Po, it is a Li-Ion, which has a 3.6vdc cell, for a combined total voltage of 7.2vdc, not 7.4vdc as with the Li-Po batteries, hence, it is partially the reason why you get higher motor revs with the recommended 7.4vdc 900mAh "Akku" 20C Li-Po battery, than the Li-Ion oem battery, but the higher rev's and greater discharge rate can mean longer flight times and better performance, which can mean more inflight wear and a greater build up of heat, which in turn, will eventually shorten the service life of the motor, unless you find a way to keep the motor from overheating by the use of a clip-on heatsink on the top of the motor adjacent to where the brushes are situated.

It is recommended to fly the heli in 5 - 7 min blocks, and monitor the battery voltage, with a small pocket or inflight voltage meter (one that you can fix to the side of the heli, plug it into the white balance /charge plug of the battery, then pre-set the buzzer to sound at a pre-determined overall and individual minimum voltage, they are easily found cheaply on ebay), so it doesn't go below 6.4vdc (3.2vdc per cell), that way the motor will last a bit longer by not overheating the magnets and burning out the brushes.
Thank you all for the info..

Think I'm going for the 900 mAH as suggested and a Imax B6 charger.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 08:26 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Onno View Post
Thank you all for the info..

Think I'm going for the 900 mAH as suggested and a Imax B6 charger.
Be careful to get an original B6 - some cheaper "Clones" will mess up your batteries.

I can't say which clones are OK and which not because I'm using an Turnigy Accucell 6, so can anybody here make recommendations from experience?

Mike
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Last edited by mikefromgermany; Jul 20, 2012 at 08:44 AM.
Old Jul 20, 2012, 11:24 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, Buena Park
Joined Jul 2012
32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
You'll get it eventually, just take it slow and steady, there's no rush...
Thank you sir and all who is helping me to make this hobby more interesting.

meantime, I have ordered:

1. Turnigy Accucell 6 Charger

Bimal
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 01:25 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany View Post
Be careful to get an original B6 - some cheaper "Clones" will mess up your batteries.

I can't say which clones are OK and which not because I'm using an Turnigy Accucell 6, so can anybody here make recommendations from experience?

Mike
I and many of us use the Turnigy with great success. I charge everything from 1S to 6S batteries and have yet to have one fail.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 02:53 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Buena Park
Joined Jul 2012
32 Posts
Li-poly battery

hello

When I was doing some research for 900mA 7.4V li-poly battery, they recommend that this type of battery should be charged outside. When I replace my original battery in DH 9116, how can we take out and put it back, carrying out this operation after every flight!!

I have give below the link for the li-poly battery, many of you might already know but just in case.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

is it OK to leave it in 9116 and charge? any suggestion/s will be appreciated.

Bimal
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 03:12 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginer56 View Post
hello

When I was doing some research for 900mA 7.4V li-poly battery, they recommend that this type of battery should be charged outside. When I replace my original battery in DH 9116, how can we take out and put it back, carrying out this operation after every flight!!

I have give below the link for the li-poly battery, many of you might already know but just in case.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

is it OK to leave it in 9116 and charge? any suggestion/s will be appreciated.

Bimal
Your decision on that would be final. I charge many on my batteries in the heli.
You must leave for at least 20 to 30 minutes to ensure they are cold before charging. On larger batteries over 2000mah, it is always best to remove and charge in a lipo bag. The site you mentioned suggests you remove the battery for safety incase it starts on fire.
If you do charge in the heli, make sure it is in a safe area in case of fire that you don't burn your house down. Again, the final decision would be yours.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 04:04 PM
Save the Pieces!
RichardInBremWA's Avatar
United States, WA, Bremerton
Joined Mar 2012
40 Posts
Battery Charging

I charge most of my batteries at 1C and they don't even get warm. I charge my 1Ss @ 2C and they don't get warm either... I guess I don't have as many batteries as the rest of y'all so I have no need to charge them any faster.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 04:14 PM
Steve
sllee51's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Feb 2012
27 Posts
Possessed tail motor

I installed a new circuit board due to the right rudder control not working
(plugged in a new tail motor prior to verify the old motor was good- no rudder force ) Plugged in the new board and the tail motor runs constantly with heli switch off or on and tx off or on . Still no right rudder control.
GREMLINS ?
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 04:29 PM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sllee51 View Post
I installed a new circuit board due to the right rudder control not working
(plugged in a new tail motor prior to verify the old motor was good- no rudder force ) Plugged in the new board and the tail motor runs constantly with heli switch off or on and tx off or on . Still no right rudder control.
GREMLINS ?
You must have wiring issues. The board should not initialize until the switch is turned on? When you plug in the battery does the PCB initialize right away and the servos center? If so and your switch is off, you have a short in the wiring.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 05:40 PM
Steve
sllee51's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Feb 2012
27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
You must have wiring issues. The board should not initialize until the switch is turned on? When you plug in the battery does the PCB initialize right away and the servos center? If so and your switch is off, you have a short in the wiring.
Nope, nothing happens- no red light no servo movement just tail rotor spinning
I'm thinking I got a bum pcb
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
1,246 Posts
Check for bad solder joins or bridged solder contacts on the pcb.

Also check the way you've re-soldered the power wires onto the pcb, you or the person that soldered the board together may have them in the wrong position, that is if you bought the pcb alone without the switch connected. There is a image of the pcb in my blog to double check against. You should have B+ on the board which goes to the thicker red wire from the side plug, B- on the board goes to the thicker black wire from the side plug, then 2 thinner black wires go to KG, which is for the switch. The switch runs via the neg side, so the neg wire from the side plug, then goes to B-, then to the closest KG contact direct, then to the switch and the thinner black wire solders to the other KG contact, which then supplies power to the board.

It's a strange arrangement, but it works.
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