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Old Jul 10, 2012, 05:16 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Turnigy 9x Transmitter with DH9116

Stormforce, Turnigy 9x Transmitter with DH9116

Chester may have some information.. At least something different. Still preliminary. He doesn't have a stock V911 transmitter yet, could be he doesn't know which servo is which (V911 servo right side from rear is Elevator).

"when I input aileron the elevator servo reacts and vice versa"

DH9116 Transmitter with V911
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9765
---

Ooops, forgot issue is with Turnigy 9x Transmitter controlling DH9116 helicopter rudder. Oh well.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 05:31 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,527 Posts
Ok weird. I thought I was having tail, battery, main motor and vibration problems. This morning I flew the DH 9116 and everything seemed to be fine as near as I could tell. I'm either going crazy or house elves fixed it while I'm sleeping.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:59 PM
Eugene
Whizgig's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
Ok weird. I thought I was having tail, battery, main motor and vibration problems. This morning I flew the DH 9116 and everything seemed to be fine as near as I could tell. I'm either going crazy or house elves fixed it while I'm sleeping.
Nope It was a Binding problem, I remember posting something about this earlyer in this thread I had just forgotten about it.

I was also talking to Mick about it as well cos the heli just went nuts and wouldn't react well to input from the tx. So I rebound it again and all was fine then it did it again a few more times.

It was a pain in the but eventualy the pcb failed and I replaced it, with the new board every so often when I start the heli and goto throttle up it's like it can't remember the rudder settings and and it wants to go round and round to the right.
So I rebind it and it's fine again.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 08:50 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
I thought that was just the programmed mix, not the pcb gyro. Normally the mix is programmed to act with throttle, elevator or aileron input, like for take off etc. which is pretty easy to incorporate into the programming.

The pendulum effect is also exaggerated by how far away the center of gravity it is, the closer the CoG is to the rotor head, the less the pendulum effect you will get. The CoG is derived by finding the balance point between the top of the rotor head and the weight of the mass and it's position on the heli, like a fulcrum point. If the heli has a metal frame and a large heavy battery, the CoG will be lower, so in effect, the "string" that decides the length of the arc is determined by the weight of the mass, hence, the heavier the weight / mass, the lower the CoG. Then to make matters worse, the length of the main shaft compounds the issue by adding further length to the pendulum arc. It's a compromise between mass, weight, main shaft length, length and position of the flybar and the gyroscopic progression and the speed of the translating tendency to communicate input from the servos into the rotor head to allocate movement in a particular direction. The longer and heavier the flybar is, will dampen the response of the rotor head from translating the servo's / swashplate input into blade / rotor head movement.

It's all very complicated and difficult to understand at the beginning, but once you understand the fundamental basics of what it does and why, it's easy to look at a heli and know what it will or won't do, by the design that's used.
Hi Mick remember when I was talking to you about my daughters B/F and his heli would keep flying to the left sidways and it took me ages to find out what was wrong with it, and after trying everthing with the tx with trimming etc I looked over the heli and found out that the left skid was bent and the heli was leaning left and it was interfiring with gyro as it changed the setting of the heli being on a level ground.
So the gyro was changing rudder and alieron to match the unlevel plain the the skids, so I straitend up the skids so they were level turned everything on and waited the required 10 seconds for the gyro to sort itself out and whala it was perfect.

So there you have it the gyro can and dose set the paramiters to maintain a levelness for the heli, and also remember that we have a flybar which helps with stability but in the senario above the flybar was not trying to level the heli but to help with stabilaty of the heli and the gyro was fighting against the flybar to keep the heli on it's perseption of being level.

So remember everyone you must have your heli on a level surface and wait the 10 seconds without touching the sticks etc to allow the gyro to setup it's paramaters and make sure your landing gear is level.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 12:39 AM
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rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,527 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizgig View Post
So remember everyone you must have your heli on a level surface and wait the 10 seconds without touching the sticks etc to allow the gyro to setup it's paramaters and make sure your landing gear is level.
Quote:
Nope It was a Binding problem
This makes sense. I'll keep an eye out for this!! I'm pretty sure at least a few times I started flying from my hand.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 02:54 AM
motivated flyer
ruszomir's Avatar
Poland, Kujawsko-Pomorskie, Torun
Joined May 2012
22 Posts
Regarding electronic gyro

I've made simple "experiment" to check out how the e-gyro works: I took of canopy, put heli on flat, level surface and started to throttle up observing gyro arms movement.

As I was tilting heli in every direction, there was absolutely no gyro movement. The only thing that happened "electronically" was tail engine engaging to counter fight rotation.

So, maybe there is sth wrong with my PCB, or its just by design.

On the other thought: if the gyro would act as Whizgig described, it would have to be full 3-dimensional gyro, which is at least as expensive as whole 9116.

Maybe some of you try to do the same experiment and post results here, thus we can finally discover the kind of gyro on 9116.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 05:08 AM
Closed Account
Joined Nov 2011
1,246 Posts
Hi dragnse7en and welcome,

The size of the main motor is 180, and I personally use this heatsink on my 180 motors.



http://shop.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXKBK0

It is a bit wide to fit properly as the main frame gets in the way, so I cut it width wise, and make 2 heatsinks from the one. Make sure you apply some dielectric heatsink grease on both surfaces before you attach it to the motor to ensure a good even heat transfer to the outer cooling fins.

I did try other types, but I had to trim them down too much, which weakened them and reduced the effective surface cooling area to almost nothing. I found this type;





http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...mart&Itemid=31

Which would be perfect, but I can't find an online dealer for it anywhere, so I can't buy it.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 09:21 AM
Cranky old fart
Balr14's Avatar
Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
21,486 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruszomir View Post
I've made simple "experiment" to check out how the e-gyro works: I took of canopy, put heli on flat, level surface and started to throttle up observing gyro arms movement.

As I was tilting heli in every direction, there was absolutely no gyro movement. The only thing that happened "electronically" was tail engine engaging to counter fight rotation.

So, maybe there is sth wrong with my PCB, or its just by design.

On the other thought: if the gyro would act as Whizgig described, it would have to be full 3-dimensional gyro, which is at least as expensive as whole 9116.

Maybe some of you try to do the same experiment and post results here, thus we can finally discover the kind of gyro on 9116.
1. The gyro in the 9116 is a simple tail holding gyro. A flybar is not compatible with a 3 axis gyro, they fight each other.
2. A flybar does not attempt to return to level. "An object once set in motion, tends to stay in motion". That applies to the plane of motion, too.
3. 3 axis MEMS gyros are cheaper than dirt now, probably under $5.
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Last edited by Balr14; Jul 11, 2012 at 09:29 AM.
Old Jul 11, 2012, 09:51 AM
Registered User
dragnse7en's Avatar
United States, MA, Northampton
Joined Jan 2009
131 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Hi dragnse7en and welcome,

The size of the main motor is 180, and I personally use this heatsink on my 180 motors.



http://shop.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXKBK0

It is a bit wide to fit properly as the main frame gets in the way, so I cut it width wise, and make 2 heatsinks from the one. Make sure you apply some dielectric heatsink grease on both surfaces before you attach it to the motor to ensure a good even heat transfer to the outer cooling fins.

I did try other types, but I had to trim them down too much, which weakened them and reduced the effective surface cooling area to almost nothing. I found this type;





http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...mart&Itemid=31

Which would be perfect, but I can't find an online dealer for it anywhere, so I can't buy it.

Thank you storm! For a minute there, I thought I was invisible in this post I'll look around for that heatsink, or something like it.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 07:35 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
rexless's Avatar
Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,527 Posts
For kicks I'm going to try out a 600mah battery I have lying here from a defunct S022. It's only 50mah less than the stock battery and it's 20g lighter (about half). Sure I'll probably have no chance at forward flight since this really needs the weight but whatever!
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 10:02 PM
Registered User
United States, IL
Joined Jun 2012
95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzyguy View Post
Thanks everyone. I tried all your suggestions. It's definitely the tail motor. One is on order, and I'll probably order a couple more just to keep on hand.

Where do you think is the best place to order parts from? I ordered the current parts from xheli and helipal. Have conformation they have already been shipped.

Thanks again for the help. Nice to have a form like this with what seems like a great bunch of guys, willing to help a guy out.

Don


Well the tail rudder assembly arrived yesterday, and as luck goes, the nylon gear that the rudder screws to had one of the spoke broken at the hub. Consequently the gear was warped and so I contacted xheli and they are sending out another one. Guess I'll have to be a little more patient. Anxious to get the 9116 airborne. Hopefully.

Being new to this RC Heli thing, what amazes me most is how poor the manuals are that come with the kits. They tell you almost nothing. This is very disturbing. Especially the manuals for the transmitters. Is there a company that provides good documentation with their product, or are they all guilty of this.

Courious!

Don
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 10:29 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Jun 2012
1,350 Posts
I had my first major crash,the wind blew her onto a two story roof and it took a hard fall to the street.I repaired the broken inner shaft.With todays flight,I had no forward/reverse side to side movement and after two minutes of hovering,I could not go more than 8 feet off the ground..
Any theorys would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by Jasen40; Jul 13, 2012 at 02:24 PM. Reason: no replys my spelling stinks
Old Jul 11, 2012, 10:48 PM
Steve
sllee51's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Feb 2012
27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormforce View Post
Hi dragnse7en and welcome,

The size of the main motor is 180, and I personally use this heatsink on my 180 motors.



http://shop.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXKBK0

It is a bit wide to fit properly as the main frame gets in the way, so I cut it width wise, and make 2 heatsinks from the one. Make sure you apply some dielectric heatsink grease on both surfaces before you attach it to the motor to ensure a good even heat transfer to the outer cooling fins.

I did try other types, but I had to trim them down too much, which weakened them and reduced the effective surface cooling area to almost nothing. I found this type;





http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...mart&Itemid=31

Which would be perfect, but I can't find an online dealer for it anywhere, so I can't buy it.
How about this:
http://www.pimp-my-helicopter.com/mo...ra-id-140.html

Never mind- out of stock

But try here:
http://www.rotorquest.com/product_in...oducts_id=9086
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Last edited by sllee51; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:01 PM. Reason: correction
Old Jul 12, 2012, 04:33 AM
Closed Account
Joined Nov 2011
1,246 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzyguy View Post
Well the tail rudder assembly arrived yesterday, and as luck goes, the nylon gear that the rudder screws to had one of the spoke broken at the hub. Consequently the gear was warped and so I contacted xheli and they are sending out another one. Guess I'll have to be a little more patient. Anxious to get the 9116 airborne. Hopefully.

Being new to this RC Heli thing, what amazes me most is how poor the manuals are that come with the kits. They tell you almost nothing. This is very disturbing. Especially the manuals for the transmitters. Is there a company that provides good documentation with their product, or are they all guilty of this.

Courious!

Don
Don,

Just use the motor from the new tail assembly. Just pull off the cage, unsolder the two contacts (making note which coloured wire goes where) and undo the two screws and the motor just pulls out. Assembly is the reverse procedure.

I usually buy a whole assembly, but rarely use it all, as I just replace the motors instead, but it's good to have the other bits as spares, if needed.
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Last edited by stormforce; Jul 13, 2012 at 03:01 AM.
Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:09 AM
Registered User
United States, IL
Joined Jun 2012
95 Posts
Mick,
Thanks. I didn't realize there was a solder connection at the motor. I thought the wires coming out the front support were fastened directly to the motor. I'll give it a try, while I wait. The way things are going I'm sure I'll need the spare parts.

Thanks again!

Don
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