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Old Jan 02, 2013, 09:18 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
3,274 Posts
" Every step of the painting process I say "never again"! But when it's all done and touched up I really like it. "

If when you get ready to paint your numbers, you attach your mask; spray a coat of base color first, then the trim color. The base color will do all the bleeding, and you will not have to touch up.

Les
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:27 AM
The Hun in the Sun
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
6,968 Posts
Control Surface Throws

Doug asked me for the control surface throws on my model, so I thought I'd post them here for easy access and as a permanent record in case a certain someone misplaces them

Ailerons - 3/4" up, 5/8" down
Elevator- 1 3/8" up, 1 1/4" down (measured at the elevator TE, not from my trim tab)
Rudder- 3" each way, which is as much as you can get. (Measured from the widest part of the rudder)

I also have a bit of expo programmed in just to soften things a bit around neutral.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 12:45 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
620 Posts
That's pretty smart Les, why didn't I think of that? Maybe the same reason I lost the info on control throws Frank sent me months ago

Doug
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:18 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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When you've been playing this game for 60 years you are bound to have picked up something.

Les
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 10:17 AM
The Hun in the Sun
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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I usually shoot a coat of clear over the mask and then the colour. But it seems to make more sense to use the same paint as the base coat. Seems rather obvious, but never thought of that before!
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:37 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
620 Posts
Good News

The good news is she's almost done, and I love the way it looks. The rigging was tedious and time consuming, but looks great. The real bear was getting the ailerons working right. The dual control rods kept binding, and I played with it for hours tinkering with the pivot points. Since the control horns were already glued into the ailerons I ended up adding a small piece of ply to the top aileron to move the pivot point backward, and just had to drill a new hole in the lower horn to bring it closer to the surface. Works good now though, I was about to give up and go with one rod.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:44 PM
The Hun in the Sun
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Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Absolutely super! You've done a fantastic job, especially for your first scratch build. You should be very proud of your work. Any idea of when the maiden flight will be?
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:56 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
620 Posts
Now the Bad News

The weight isn't as bad as I feared, but still 7.3 ozs more than Frank's. I think I could live with that, but the really bad news is I'm tail heavy. The picture below shows it on my makeshift balancer at the recommended CG. I had to hang a baggie with 7.4 ozs of lead shot in it from the front edge of the cowl to bring it level. Since the battery is already up against the firewall I'm not sure what I can do. I might look at it later and see if I can cut a hole in the firewall and move it forward, but I don't want to weaken the structure.
If I end up having to add the lead to the cowl, I'll end up with a weight without battery of 6lbs 14.1 ozs, and with battery of 7lbs 7.8ozs. That's nearly a pound more than Franks Bucker.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:58 PM
The Hun in the Sun
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Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Although a bit of a bummer, this is a big model and I don't think you will suffer from an extra pound. I would try a 4S battery (more weight) and a 15X8 prop. I don't think you'll be disappointed one iota.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 04:26 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,419 Posts
Doug - you say this is your first scratch build, we will be looking forward to even more magnificent models in the future Having Frank looking over your shoulder is a bonus too!
wrt the tail heaviness, that is an area I am sure you will be wary of in the future - being very careful about keeping the back end light.
My recent Fokker DVII came out at 6.6 lb, is similar size and still feels light - the extra stability a bit more wing loading gives

A beautiful model - looking forward to the next one

Pat
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Last edited by Pat Lynch; Jan 04, 2013 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 04:32 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
620 Posts
Thanks for the words of encouragement Frank. Call me stubborn, but I'm pretty intent on sticking with 3S. I just did some playing around and rubberbanded the battery sideways right behind the firewall, and only had to add 2 ozs of ballast to get it to balance. I think if I tear out the horizontal battery tray there will be just enough room to stand it up vertically against the firewall. Wish me luck.

Do you think I'll still be OK on 3S if I'm like 9 ozs heavier than yours? I haven't done any motor tests yet to see what kind of watts I'm working with, that'll be next after balancing. BTW - I haven't found the wing area anywhere on the plans for figuring out wing loading, do you have it?

Thanks again, Doug
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 04:40 PM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
Bay City, MI
Joined Oct 2007
620 Posts
Thanks Pat, and Frank looking over my shoulder was more than a bonus, it was a requirement on my part. Actually I did a lot of looking over his, as in his build thread. And I'm already thinking about the next one.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 05:32 PM
The Hun in the Sun
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Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dglo View Post
Do you think I'll still be OK on 3S if I'm like 9 ozs heavier than yours? I haven't done any motor tests yet to see what kind of watts I'm working with, that'll be next after balancing. BTW - I haven't found the wing area anywhere on the plans for figuring out wing loading, do you have it?

Thanks again, Doug
I think the model will fly just fine, but you might not be happy with the vertical performance. My favourite flying with this model is to do vertical climbs and then kick the model over with the rudder. My vertical is not unlimited with 3S, and I use the energy of the model from one maneuver to the next. It's a perfect balance as it is, but if it were heavier, it might not be. Fly and try! As far as the wing area goes, I'm pretty sure I had to measure and calculate the wing area myself. I'll see if I have it written down somewhere, but if not, break out the ruler!
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 08:29 PM
Trampling out the vintage
Joined Feb 2002
1,893 Posts
I build a Weddel-Williams once, a low wing golden age racer with a short nose like your B. Jung. Its' very common for these golden-age, radial designs to have CG issues due to the short nose. I made a strong battery tray that protruded into the cowl. I think your firewall looks strong enough to withstand adding a robust battery tray. My opinion is, it is better to spend the weight on a big battery box/bigger battery than lead.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 02:18 AM
...design-build-fly-publish...
eye4wings's Avatar
Ware, herts. U.K.
Joined Sep 2008
3,246 Posts
Okay, if we're into model comparison mode I have just completed the DH-83 Fox Moth I started 3 monthe ago. It is 1:5 scale, 73.5" span, weight all-up is just under 6 pounds for a loading of 9.5 ounces/sq.ft.

I have a 3S 4,000mah pack in there for the first flight on a 16" x 10" wood prop, but suspect (just from the feel of it) that it may land up flying on 2S from paved runway.
Not flown yet though... as Frank says 'fly and try'!

Not such a short nose as the Bucker of course but balances about right with a 2S 3,000mah pack.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...728815&page=23
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