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Old Nov 23, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Did not get as much done today as I would have liked to. You can see the sanded filler on the lower hull joint with the tail cone. Looks crappy now but paint will make it look nice.

For those pages that have instructions to follow...

Page 4 - Done
Page 5 - Done
Page 6 - Done
Page 7 - 1/2 remains
Page 8 - Done
Page 9 - 1/4 remains
Page 10 - 3/4 remains
Page 11-14 - Not started, still need to order electronics.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Instructions page 9 & 10

Page 9
Long day today working on this. Glued the shaft housing in. Glued the rest of the lower hull flange all the way to the bow. Did not care for the angle of the dog bone so made an adjustment, see pics. Glued the pressure hull supports. Glued the lower hull supports under the pressure hull. Spent a lot of time sanding the upper hull so that there was no gap between the upper and lower hull sections. Removed the upper and lower hull bow sections and sanded each to a 90 degree angle.

Page 10
Mounted the bow planes bulkhead. See how in the pics. Drilled the holes on the keel a week ago. Will continue tomorrow on this section.
--------------------
Page 4 - Done
Page 5 - Done
Page 6 - Done
Page 7 - 1/2 remains
Page 8 - Done
Page 9 - Done
Page 10 - 3/4 remains
Page 11-14 - Not started, still need to order electronics.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 26, 2011 at 06:39 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Bow assembly

The two bow halves were pretty touchy to get shaped correctly. You have the taper to the bow which means you cannot remove too much or you are screwed. You need to get it centered on the centerline and you need to get it to fit even with the upper and lower hull sections. So a lot to take into account. I only sanded a hair each time and jumped from the hull-bow joint and the bow-bow joints. In the end, some of the ridge on the inside still remained once I had the bow fitted. I added tabs for additional glue area and to help better fit the sections. This time I did not tape the halves when gluing. I held the sections and glued each side one at a time. I could not get the very nose lined up evenly. I'll have to fill the port side and build it up until I can sand it even with the starboard side.

Tomorrow I will attach the bow to the upper hull.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 28, 2011 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Instructions page 10

Finished up today on page 10. As good as done installing the bow plane assembly. Just need to glue the parts into place.
Skip!!! If you see this do I have the bow planes setup correctly???
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Progress...
Page 4 - Done
Page 5 - Done
Page 6 - Glue ballast tank top. On hold, need tubing from LHS.
Page 7 - Install servos and linkage. On hold, need electronics.
Page 8 - Done
Page 9 - Done
Page 10 - Done
Page 11-14 - On hold, need electronics.

Page 9 - I'm not installing the upper hull supports until I know what I will be doing with the deck. So calling page 9 done since the deck detailing is not part of the instructions.

I should have my order in this week for the electronics. In the meantime I'll go back to my other boat and I can work on the Marlin conning tower details and other things that I will be doing to the boat. Any future updates will be slow in coming.

I just checked the first post. I started this 13 days ago! For myself this is damn good. Will be ready for next spring that's for sure.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 28, 2011 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Thread kinda died. Anything new?
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 11:05 AM
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YA most likely...christmas, new year, stuff... but it made me get mine out and dust it off
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 08:03 PM
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The thread is on hold for now, but still working on the model. I'm working on the sail-conning tower. Will post more pics once I get to a certain point. The wait will be worth it, at least I hope you think so. And I'm waiting for some styrene for the deck to come in that I ordered from the LHS.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Its good to see a well put together build thread. DOnt forget to update when you start working.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 07:42 PM
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I took mine to the AMA show this weekend
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Sub View Post
Its good to see a well put together build thread. DOnt forget to update when you start working.
Thanks! I'm keeping an eye on the thread for anyone asking while I'm doing my thing. For the conning tower I asked a friend on advice to do something and he basically is doing most of what I wanted. So it's getting there but slow. In the meantime, I'm concentrating on my main boat project trying to get as much done as I can for the WRAM show.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 08:30 PM
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I have not been idle, back to work

At this point I need a stand for the model. So I bought a 4 foot x 3/4 thick poplar board for the base. I sanded the heck out of it to remove the saw marks. I used 220 grit paper on an orbital sander. The hull supports are 1/2 poplar. I gave the base a routed edge for a nice finish. I did not take pics of every step, but here is what I have.

For the finish, I applied the pre-stain and within two hours applied the Golden Oak stain on all pieces. I applied the stain with a cheapo brush. After letting the stain sit for 5 minutes I wiped everything down with a paper towel to remove the excess stain. After 24 hours I sanded lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and vacuumed off all the dust. I then used a cheapo brush again and applied the first coat of polyurethane. Let all dry for 24+ hours and sanded heavily with 220 grit sandpaper. Vacuumed the dust again and applied the final coat with a sponge applicator. After 24 hours I was going to use steel wool to get a really smooth finish but the finish seems good enough at this point. It could have used a third coat but I am fine with the results. The finish is very smooth, the key was sanding it very well before that final second coat.

The description for each picture tell the rest. This stand makes a nice display stand and once the braided line is added will double as a transport cradle for the model.
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 09:29 AM
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I added some tube styrene to the holes for the push rods. This is for a more finished look so you cannot see stuff on the inside. I was not sure what color gray to use, most subs appear very dark in the pictures I was looking at. I would think the dark color would make the boat harder to see in the ocean, so I went with Krylon primer gray. After a few coats I sanded the hull with 400-600 wet dry sandpaper, sanding it dry. The surface was very smooth but you could see all of the sanding marks, this is OK. I then sprayed Valspar clear flat. Both of these paints are enamel. The previous sanding marks disappeared and the hull has a nice smooth durable coating to it.

All of the body work on the tail cone, hull and the aft fins came out very good. Did not have to do any touchup on any of the seams. You need to look really really close to see where these joints are. I also added on the tail cone a brass rod going to the thing on the top of the one tale fin. I think it's wires for a light.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Apr 15, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 10:14 AM
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The conning tower gets mounted onto this raised portion of the deck. To me it did not look right having it raised up like it is. See the first picture. So I removed the raised section of the deck and plated it over from underneath. Now the tower sits much nicer on the deck. As I remove areas of the deck like this, the upper hull losses its rigidity. So adding that styrene plate back adds the rigidity back to the hull. Only problem now is there is a cup there to hold water. Later on I will be drilling access holes for mounting the tower, wires and allowing air and water to flow between the upper hull and the conning tower.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Apr 21, 2012 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:38 AM
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More work on the deck. Glued this sponson on and did a little body work fairing it into the hull lines.

Looking at the Marlin at it's museum in Omaha, you can see anti-corrosion zincs, I think they are zinc, on the area's around the propeller. They prevent electrolysis of metals that is inherent in salt water. I think they are mainly there to prevent corrosion of the propeller. They are painted over by museum staff but from what I know the bare zinc material would have been left exposed to the water, at least when the sub was still operational by the Navy. If you find the right picture, you can see that some of the zinc material has corroded away. Before painting I added a spot of tape where the zinc would be glued so I am not gluing the zinc directly to the paint. I had to remove and trim the zincs from the castings.

http://www.submarinemuseums.org/pics/marlin/
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:58 AM
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You are correct they are called zincs. They were used to prevent the entire boat from suffering electrolysis. Another common name for them was sacrificial anodes. They are stuck every where from tanks, heat exchangers, and hull. Anywhere where disimilar metals were in contact with sea water. If you are going for a more weathered look with the boat, they will tun white over time.

Oh and they were never painted, thats just the museum not giving a darn.
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