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Old Jun 07, 2013, 06:57 PM
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Looks really nice Ken. Most of the subs that I have seen turn better when submerged. I think the conning tower works kind of like a turn fin when submerged. As for your trim issues , can you add some foam inside the wet area of the hull or would that keep it from diving properly? Greg
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Old Jun 07, 2013, 07:19 PM
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Thanks. Skip said to put foam under the lip of the WTC, which I have not done yet. I'll try adding foam this weekend to see what happens. As long as the foam does not trap air I would think it should not affect diving.
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Old Jun 09, 2013, 07:19 PM
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Uncle

I give!

After enough attempts at trying to get this WTC to work, not fill with water, I had more trouble than I cared to have at this point. It did not fill entirely with water, enough that I had to reach to the bottom of the the pool to pull the sub out. I was determined to get it to work, but I now give up. So.... I already have an SD, I'll be ordering servo's this week.
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Old Jun 14, 2013, 06:25 PM
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Cats.
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 05:06 PM
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I stripped out the guts of the old WTC. I now have a few electronic parts that I will not be reusing, the RS-Ten, AFS-2, UPC-1. Hopefully someday I will find a use for them unless somebody would like to buy them? The only one I will reuse is the Viper ESC. All that time.... making PCB's and doing other things.... wasted.... oh well. I will be better off using the new sub-driver anyway.
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 05:28 PM
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The micro servos I had did not fit properly on the tray so I removed the mount that was there and my friend who did the parts in the sail helped me out again and came up with these rods and guides so that the push rods exit the rear bulkhead in a straight manor. He also made up the mounting bracket for the servos. The black posts help guide each pushrod and the servo horn has a pin which ride in the T's. This way there is no sideway movement of the pushrod.

In certain spots I drilled holes near the edges so I could use regular fine wire to keep all the servo and other wire neat and tidy. You can see these in the bottom view.
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 05:41 PM
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My version of the Y-Cable. I had two items that needed to share one channel. So I did not have all kinds of extra cable to tuck away with a Y-cable, I cut a section out of one of the old PCB's I originally made and used that to have those two items. They need to be plugged in with the correct orientation, otherwise nothing happens.
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 05:47 PM
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I will be reusing the NiMH batteries I have. I removed the silicone and unsoldered them from each other and siliconed and soldered them together to fit the curve of the sub-driver. Just don't have a picture of that right now.

My next step is I need to mount the sub-driver. The forward frame I will have to cut to fit and hold the new sub-driver. For the aft part I'll have to add something to hold it in position. It also needs to line up with the prop shaft. And I need to figure out how to hold it in place.

Any suggestions?
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 08:38 PM
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I could never get mine to work properly too, on my albacore
so when I built my marlin I also built my own WTC, cast my own endcaps
and got me a clear tube and bingo Water tite container. and
I never looked back
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 09:01 PM
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Holding the wtc in place there are two things I did (was recommended to me -so I obeyed) one is a pin that the wtc will slip on to and the other is a Velcro strap that will hold it down onto the pin.
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 09:05 PM
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Both are what I did to mine
Be sure to mount the velcro strap securely!!!
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Old Aug 19, 2013, 08:53 PM
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Let me go back a few years. When our model boat club was probably at it's peak, for a few years during the winter we were able sail our boats indoors at the pool at Monmouth College in Long Branch New Jersey. I was scanning some other photos and came across these. They are Skip's type XXIII, taken about Jan or Feb 1986. There was a viewing window in the deep end to watch divers water entry. Perfect place to take pictures of a model submarine.
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Old Aug 19, 2013, 09:26 PM
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Skip is one of the greats!
I pray that someday, I get a chance to meet him.
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Old Aug 19, 2013, 09:45 PM
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I had the pleasure of meeting him at Carmel this year and he had his type XXIII. It ran beautifully.
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Old Aug 20, 2013, 01:18 AM
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London
Joined Nov 2003
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A releasable zip tie also works well for holding in a dive module, if you don't fancy the velcro route.

Perhaps you could reuse the insides of the original equipment in a sub of your own design. Make a cylinder from ABS or PVC pipe and machine some caps from stock sheet (no need to cast endcaps, you're not going into production) and you have everthing required for reliable operation.

I think the combination of a vacformed plastic flange and large equatorial separation was the achillies heel with these designs. I'm sure with some reinforcement around the edge, plus maybe two or three radial braces mounted along the length would have cured any issues, but Dave's WTC should give you hassle free sailing.

I like the miniature scotch yokes for the servo links.
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