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Old Mar 20, 2013, 12:14 PM
We can trim it out
Chubbum's Avatar
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Joined Jul 2010
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I just spent the past hour and a half reading through your build. Amazing work Ken, this is inspiring work you have done. From the fabrication, the scribing and all of the combined details this Marlin is a functioning work of art. Cant wait to see it all tied up and in the water. Cheers

Erick
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Old Mar 20, 2013, 06:26 PM
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Erick, glad this was worth an hour and a half of your time. The comments are greatly appreciated and glad you enjoyed reading the progress.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Any updates?
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Thanks for keeping an eye on the thread. Have lots of little things to finish up and take care of. Plan on posting another video which should be worthwhile. Also need to do a water test on the WTC which Mr. David M keeps reminding me to do, which I should have done long ago. Realistically, I should have had this model done already.

I'm still working on some things in the sail and deck. I almost finished up on the forward dive planes. Have the hardware in place in the support bracket near the bow. The dive planes need to have a brass rod inserted into them, then a square tube goes over that and that all slides into the hardware mounted in the 'bracket'. I ditched the supplied short square tube and used a longer section. When both planes are in place the ends will touch inside the bracket. Inside each square rod will be a 1/16 magnet and they will hopefully hold the planes in place. To keep them centered I added a small stop on the square tube, see the yellow arrow. The rod is soldered in the square tube. The holes in the dive planes were not drilled true so I had to bend the rod so that the planes lined up horizontally from front and above. I just need to glue the rods and magnets in place.

What other methods are there to have removable dive planes like this?
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Old Apr 09, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken_nj View Post

What other methods are there to have removable dive planes like this?
A small set screw on the underside of one plane. Take one plane loose then pull the assembly.
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 09:32 AM
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I'm having update withdraws.
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Old Apr 26, 2013, 02:32 PM
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hey can i get inside of your conversation
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Old Apr 28, 2013, 05:19 PM
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Yes a set screw would have worked, but I went with the magnet. I'll cross my fingers it works out. Welcome aboard Cristhian.

I'll be jumping around getting those little things done. With all of the inner workings inside the sail, I need to make it removable from the hull for servicing. I went to the Sear's hardware store which has bin upon bin of assorted fasteners. I picked up a set of stainless steel bolts, wing nuts, brass knurled nuts and some plastic screw covers. Added a section of styrene, drilled and filed holes in the right spot on the centerline and added corresponding holes on the upper hull where the sail goes. Went with using the brass nuts as they are easier to thread on to the bolt.
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Old Apr 28, 2013, 06:19 PM
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To finish up on the sail required a few days worth of work. I hate working on small tedious things, everything here is so small, my fingers are huge, wires don't go where you want them. I had to unsolder a few from the PCB as they were not crossing just right with other wires. All a pain in the ass. And of course look what I am cramming into a small space. Skip said keep the sail light! He's probably nodding his head with all of the weight I have in it. I have as much engineering going on in this sail as I do in the rest of the boat. I'll just hope she is steady and this weight will not be too much of a problem.

As the sub dives, the lights, radar and sonar motors will turn off. To do this I built a tiny float switch. You can see how big it is compared to the dime. At the bottom of the float, hidden inside, is a 1/4 inch long magnet. About 1/8 inch below the float when it is in the down position is a reed switch. When the boat is dry, the float will be down closing the switch and the lights and motors work. When underwater, float moves up, opening the reed switch, turning off power. Why did I do this? I guess I love the torture. Hopefully it is at the right position as I have no place left to put it in the sail.

Up until now, the sail halves were not joined together. Now they have 2 30 gauge wires connecting them, and they are for the port nav light. Maybe in the future I'll add a 2 pin connector which will make it easier to work on. I am hoping to not have to take this apart that often. I had to make a stand for the port half because of the wires and bolts.

The PCB is sealed in it's WTC (c=compartment) with silicone. I still need to do a dunk test on this. Will do that when I dunk the main WTC which should be this week. Still have some things to do so not done with this just yet.
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Old Apr 28, 2013, 08:46 PM
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Water test

Have the sail submerged in my kitchen sink. No evidence of leaks or bubbles coming from the PCB compartment. Will leave it there for a few hours to see what happens. I did find out the buoyancy of the float will not overcome the magnetic attraction between the magnet and the reed switch. I'll have to put a styrene spacer between them to see if that helps. The lights and radar work do work fine underwater.

I was going to submerge the WTC, but I failed to apply silicone around the pipe coming from the pump. So I applied the silicone and will have to wait until tomorrow.
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Old May 02, 2013, 07:16 PM
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Water test

Looking at the bottom of the WTC, I did not seal around the port for the ballast motor, picture #1. So before hitting any water I needed to seal this with silicon. After waiting a day for that to dry, I remove the top half and submerged the WTC up to the lip. This allowed me to see if any water would leak in from any of the openings. The push rod, propeller shaft, antennae and the sixteen pin electrical connector appeared to be dry. Water was leaking in someplace under the ballast tank or from the ballast motor housing. I realized the larger of the three openings on the bottom also needed a bead of silicone. Once that was applied and eventually submerged, all appeared dry this time.

Now I put the top half on and submerged the whole thing again for about five minutes. I noticed a few small bubbles coming from a rear corner of the main seal. A bubble would pop out every ten to fifteen seconds or so. After the five minutes I opened it up and it was dry. Put the top back on and back in the water for fifteen minutes. No bubble there so it must have been a seating issue.

Next with it on the sink side out of the water, I held two holes with my finger and submerged a hose from the large hole and used the hose from the PBU and sucked water into the ballast tank. I saw no leaks, so I emptied the tank.

So everything looks good for this stage. I'll probably submerge the works a few more time just to get some confidence there will be no leaks. Maybe during the weekend I can balance out the whole model submerged in the bathtub.
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Old May 02, 2013, 09:55 PM
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Held it underwater for a half hour this evening, no leaks. Tomorrow I will put the batteries and electronics back in, submerge it again and operate the ballast tank motor, drive motor and servos.
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Old May 03, 2013, 12:58 AM
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That is pretty exciting. Thanks for the updates.
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Old May 04, 2013, 11:24 AM
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Here is a water test video on the WTC and sail. I have this one in Photobucket so you will need to click the link and go there. After the video was shot I checked for water, there was some there. After letting it dry in the sun, I put it back in the sink as you see in the two photos. I left it there like that for about an hour with the motor running. I think it's safe to assume at this point that all of the hull openings are sealed and the water will stay out. I'm going to have to make sure all of those wires are wrapped and positioned so that it does not interfere with the cover seating properly. That would seem to be the most likely cause of water entering. To me it looks like the very aft part of the joint between the covers is vulnerable and possibly prone to leaking there.

I can beat this to death testing and testing. It seals, stays dry, it can be done, but I need to be careful about it. The gasket and o-rings can dry out, there is no known replacement for the gasket, so at this point I'll try to enjoy sailing it for the summer. I'll check into getting a sub-driver to replace this WTC. Maybe during next winter I can retrofit what I have now with something newer and more reliable.

I'm going to spend this weekend fixing up the float switch in the sail and a few more things that need to be done on the deck. Maybe I can start trimming her out in the bath tub as well.

Video link: http://s11.photobucket.com/user/ken_...rtest.mp4.html
.
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Old May 17, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Still finding more detail things to do. Working on ballasting and getting foam setup at the waterline. I did an initial test of the model in the bath tub which looks promising. Was a real pain to take the boat and WTC apart each time to do very minor adjustments to the ballast. The float switch in the sail was fixed and shuts the radar and lights off like it was designed to do. Everything is starting to fall into place.
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Last edited by ken_nj; May 20, 2013 at 12:32 PM.
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